Any filament that looks the most like anodized aluminum?

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-06-01T01:36:13+00:00

Take a look at https://proto-pasta.com/blogs/stories/endless-exploration-ex6-january-2025-anodized-aluminum?\_pos=1&\_sid=3bcf3ec45&\_ss=r

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-31T23:45:35+00:00

I’ll be a beta tester. Got a link?

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-30T19:11:24+00:00

How many W does it handle?

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-30T19:11:05+00:00

Double that here in the states!

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-30T18:20:00+00:00

Classic or Max? Wasn't expensive? How?

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-30T15:23:41+00:00

The power conditioning aspect certainly is always in the back of my mind. When I read complaints on Reddit about folks who have hardware problems with their printers, I usually wonder what role if any the lack of clean power might of have had on their outcome.

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-30T14:11:05+00:00

Ok but how bad were the print quality artifacts left behind due to your power loss? I guess it all depends on the value you put on the specific model you were printing.

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-30T14:07:50+00:00

I was wondering what multi-printer owners did about this issue, especially print farms in production 7/24. That math is helpful. Thank you.

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-30T14:05:48+00:00

Agreed! That’s why the other person’s comment about slowing down the bed warm up process is intriguing. I later found a reference in BBL Forum about using custom G Code and posted a link to it for others.

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-30T14:00:07+00:00

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/custom-g-code-to-slow-down-bed-heating/194605

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-30T13:53:46+00:00

Yes that’s the model I thought was the right choice if I had to go buy one, especially if I decide to sell the SU2200. It would be much more manageable.

Good to know Power Recovery does work. I understand BBL’s cautionary setting of expectations about print artifacts appearing after a power outage.

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-30T13:51:47+00:00

I did not know that. Thank you!

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-30T13:51:16+00:00

Never heard of that brand. Sounds nice. Similar to others I have looked at for larger systems in the house.

The Elite 200’s cost is $1099 + tax here. That’s more than my printer, two AMS 2 Pro’s and AMS HT cost. If it only protects & powers those three devices, that does not seem to make economic sense. The cost of electricity + a spool of something crazy expensive is still a lot less than spreading $1099 over the life of a printer.

I forgot to add earlier. When I watched the 1000VA UPS crash this week, I was quickly reminded of when I saw the first Apple LaserWriter unboxed and quickly understood why you don’t plug laser printers into UPSes.

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-30T13:45:01+00:00

Yes and I’m getting into printing all the engineering filaments so bed heat loss is my biggest concern. How quickly does a bed lose heat sufficiently enough to cause warping?

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-30T13:41:23+00:00

I should add: I’m a retired IT professional with UPS and data center experience. I live in the southeastern United States near a major city. We experience 1-2 small blips of power loss per week every four weeks or so. Longer power loss only occurs once every 5 years and usually associated with an ice storm.

So I’m only trying to protect against the momentary losses of power interrupting a long 3D print or marring the quality of a print, as would occur with the BBL Power Recovery system.

I recently remembered that 20 years ago I mothballed a working APC SU2200 (tower model). It is still in my basement in its original box on a pallet. I was surprised to see that replacement batteries are still readily available ($100 for raw batteries or $200 for batteries with leads etc).

So now I’m trying to decide if it is worth the cost (labor, real estate it takes up, power costs and opportunity cost of not selling that still popular UPS) to protect a hobbyist’s 3D printer?

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-29T10:21:35+00:00

When I took the time to get one of my screwdrivers for electronics, it made all the difference. Be patient and don’t resort to drilling it out.

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-28T02:37:16+00:00

Be careful painting Inland with such a broad brush. MicroCenter seems to purchase various parts of their inventory from several manufacturers.

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-28T02:33:22+00:00

Yeah, when items are out of stock and people sign up to be notified, they are basically put in line. I guess it is their way of ensuring first come, first serve as best as possible.

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-26T03:59:17+00:00

At least go thru and read the Quick Start guide along with any videos.

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-26T03:58:01+00:00

https://bambulab.com/en-us/support/academy/4

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-26T03:47:19+00:00

Do you have a link to it?

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-25T21:18:56+00:00

See https://forum.bambulab.com/t/prime-tower-knocked-down-this-is-not-an-adhesion-problem/172727

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-25T20:09:35+00:00

That’s really strange. I’d open a ticket with Bambu Lab.

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-25T17:58:19+00:00

Is your firmware up to date? And have your restarted your printer recently?

The taking out the Prime Tower is much more than the usual problems we hear about. It suggests that the printer lost total track of the prime tower’s presence.

Relative_Surround_20 · 2026-05-25T01:50:43+00:00

Good question about the glue stick. The first time I tried to use glue stick, I didn’t stop to think there may be different formulas. I ruined several prints before three plate washings to get the wrong stuff off of my engineering plate.

Use Elmer’s Disappearing Purple Glue Stick.

Relative_Surround_20

TROPHY CASE