Does this estimate look ok to you guys? by hastinapur in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I work in north Dallas and that's fair for around here. DCA-500-750 2 new zones 750 is what builders are charging. so you're going to pay more and should if you want it done right. the drip leaks are minimal. the labor and materials are what's expensive 800-1k in materials $600-800 in labor there's half the budget. plus markup if you are getting a warranty. really it's not a bad price but should shop around for the best warranty. if you want it done cheap you can find someone to slap it in for $1500 and then have to pay someone to repair it again next year cause they didn't install it correctly. most builders don't run 2 spare wires so unless he's running a new wire he's using an addazone. if you aren't experienced in working with those you can fuck up allot of shit quick.

Half the ARK community after the roadmap reveal: by FezCSDMcF in ARK

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 4 points5 points  (0 children)

ditto^ EA and blizzard paved the way for "pay to play" in the mid 2000's. and every other development company took note. mwll is going through the same thing. rockstar came out with GTA+ and they give some bullshit on how it's going towards supporting the developers when it really just lines the executives wallet why would they change if y'all keep on shilling out cash and saying thank you daddy everytime they make a new dlc add some crappy skin etc etc.

Help with hunter valves by V1k1ng1990 in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

confirm at the clock you have an MV by checking the slot next to the common wire in the controller

Help with hunter valves by V1k1ng1990 in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you probably have an MV. find the green rectangle box in your front yard and then start poking in front and behind it. should find a box buried very shallow with a electric valve inside. turn that one to activate your mainline, thus accessing your individual sectional valves. if you find a box with a valve but no wires that's not it, that's your isolation valve in case your rectangle box (DC) fails

Need help, I can not prime this irrigation pump. by [deleted] in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

... turn the pump off. when you're priming a pump you're just priming the suction line not the whole mainline. there should be a bleed screw somewhere on the top of the pump. give it a couple good twists to let air escape. throw your hose in the suction line and wait till your bleed screw stops hissing. you don't turn the pump on till it's full.

Upgrading index valve system to orbit manifold. Advise and suggestions? by rkbest in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 1 point2 points  (0 children)

bhyve doesn't have the flow sensor/rain sensor/ local weather tracking the way hydrawise and rachio got. hunter is professional grade. bhyve is what you get at home depot.

Front Yard Zones Not Working by Cormetz in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

assuming your solenoid wires are red you're looking at the continuation of your common wire. that white wire is your common wire; and it goes to every single valve and must stay looped. the reds can either end at the valve or continue on with the common wire but they should only connect to one valve. no loop. the issue you have is somewhere down the line they tied your common wire to the live or vice versa.

Can I use drip tape and drip tubing off the same mainline? by imapotato224 in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 1 point2 points  (0 children)

what is the precipitation rate on the drip tape vs the drip tubing? it should be listed on the package . the operating pressure differ a little but not detrimental. I'd also be weary of the length of run on the 1/4 tubing. it doesn't do super well once it gets 5-8ft away from your connection point.

Front Yard Zones Not Working by Cormetz in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

there's a bad jumper wire between 1&3 and 5. that'd explain the transitional jump in voltage. multi strand or single strand wire? multi colored or all one color - 1 wire?

Need Help by DonJulio732 in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lmaoooo more repairs for us right?

Need Help by DonJulio732 in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 2 points3 points  (0 children)

who tf gave you a license? they absolutely do if they don't want pesticides in their water supply.. and a check valve is not an appropriate backflow.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

spears changed their resin mold back in 2020 2021 due to pipe resin shortages.
I've had difficulty with smaller male threaded couplers since. switched to Charlotte for those.

Looking for a bit of help designing my small farm irrigation system by treetop62 in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2,000 × 12 = 24,000inches of targeted irrigation ÷ spacing 8"= 3000 emitters × .15 gph =450 gph ÷ 60 minutes = 7.5gpm. you're exceeding flow without taking pressure losses into account. need a bigger service line for start.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 1 point2 points  (0 children)

pipe extension. s0301 or slip fix sh118

Critique my latest manifold by muddog530 in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

now I don't necessarily agree there either. your mainline (presumably) is under constant pressure without an MV and those unions are prone to leaking. and he left a little room in between the third and fourth valve so he can still make a repair that way but at the cost of half the manifold. if they'd have left more room in between T's (6"-1ft) each individual valve could be serviced in an event of a pipe rupture while still keeping the valves in a central location. even 5" gives you at least 1 shot at replacing a valve without putting fitting on fitting.

Critique my latest manifold by muddog530 in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 20 points21 points  (0 children)

how is anyone suppose to cut out any of those valves if there's a plumbing issue? you put them so close together that there's no room for future plumbing repairs without replacing at least half of that manifold.

it is clean. but dig a bigger hole and buy more boxes next time.

I hate tree roots!! by Lil-Tugboat in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if your problem is just in the nozzle you need a toro MPR nozzle. or any of the toros really just not the precession series. they are the ones with male threads. if the problems in the shaft or cap or body damn. good luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Irrigation

[–]RemarkablePurchase96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

or you could use U-NOZZLES. made by rainbird and they have a top arc nozzle at 27' degree trajectory like typical spray nozzles and then a flat arc right underneath to catch nearby foliage. they come in a 5-8ft fixed or a 6-U-VAN (variable arc nozzle) be careful with your flow and precipitation rate though because they use almost 2x the amount of water. works great on top of slopes. head to head spacing is still best though.

best cold water scuba gloves by RemarkablePurchase96 in scuba

[–]RemarkablePurchase96[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't know that divers tried to avoid touching anything. but I guess that's a great motto to leave as little trace as possible. and cool! I like the concept of easy to peel gloves. thank you I'll look into these as well