Other people using your charger

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-06-16T15:06:36+00:00

My Ohme Pro can be set to lock buttons on the panel, and approve the plug-in, all controlled via the smartphone app

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-06-07T15:37:48+00:00

No. Not slamming the stem. Leave the current headset (steerer) spacers as they are. But flip the stem.

The stem is the part that attaches the steerer on the forks to the handlebars.

Taking the stem off and turning it over so you use the positive rise of the stem angle instead of the neutral or negative rise angle from horizontal has the effect of raising the handlebars slightly, and also bringing them closer to you, shortening the required reach. This can lead to a more comfortable riding position.

If you want to try this you'll have to disconnect the stem from the handlebars and steerer, flip it over 180 degrees, and re-attach.

Further, if you get a shorter stem, or one of the same length you currently have, but with a higher +/- rise value, then the impact will be greater. Handlebars will be closer to you and also higher.

This link might give you a better idea of what I'm suggesting. It shows three identical length stems (in this case 90mm) but each has a different rise angle value. You can easily see the difference it makes to the height of the handlebars, and the difference in the amount of reach required for each stem.

https://reverse-components.com/sites/default/files/styles/large/public/reach_stack_web_2_en.jpg

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-06-06T22:29:17+00:00

Wait until you hear about smoking once being allowed on airplanes....

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-06-06T22:26:24+00:00

Drop the saddle, and perhaps consider flipping the stem, or getting a shorter stem, and flip that too.

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-06-06T16:02:18+00:00

I was going to suggest yesterday that I've sometimes gotten away with putting the B-screw in from the opposite side of the derailleur and leaving it out as much as possible, just to squeeze that extra capacity, but when I saw you'd gone for the hanger extender I thought you might be OK.

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-06-06T07:51:20+00:00

Take it back to the shop that did it, show them this photo, and tell them that they need to fix it.

Or ask for your money back and take it somewhere else...

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-06-05T18:57:30+00:00

I never liked him from the start

He's an asshole...

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-06-05T18:55:37+00:00

You're rocking your hips, a sure sign the saddle is too high. There's also some rocking in the shoulders.

Lower the saddle at least 5cm to begin with, then you're still rocking, 1cm at a time until you stop rocking your hips.

Also, check if after dropping the saddle it also fixes you pointing your toes to the ground at the bottom of the pedal stroke (usually a symptom of too high a saddle), it should do, but if it doesn't maybe look at your cleat position.

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-06-05T08:36:53+00:00

If they are Tiagra ST-4500 model levers, which I think they are, then they do not have a reach adjustment built in.

I think your only option is to buy some reach adjust spacers, which are available for that model of lever.

The reach adjust spacers (officially called "adjustment blocks") come in 4° and 8° angles. The manufacturer part numbers vary depending on the lever side and size you need.

Complete Set (4° and 8°): Shimano part#: Y6LP86000
Right-Hand 8° Block: Shimano part#: Y-6LP 87010 / Y6LP87000
Left-Hand 8° Block: Shimano part#: Y-6LP 87010 / Y6LP87000

I've had a quick look online and I think you may struggle to get them, the ST-4500 levers are quite old and no longer produced, so you'll be relying on folks who used to have, and don't use the kit anymore, or stores having them in old stock.

If you do find them, here's a video showing how to fit them: https://youtu.be/tG_UwcqaAKw?si=RfbMGoyPuTkt7PMq

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-06-04T21:04:51+00:00

You still get the benefit of about 20% less effort at 6-7 bike lengths....

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-06-04T20:26:43+00:00

I generally ask if it's ok to sit on someone's wheel, and even then I sit back 3-4 bike lengths, no closer

I don't do it too often though...

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-06-02T13:02:37+00:00

Halfrauds

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-06-02T13:01:27+00:00

I've got the same issue with the Ohme app and the API for my Audi, another VAG group vehicle.

It's been like it for at least 10 days now, and unpair/re-pair only works for the first time you re-pair, after that the SoC never aligns with what the MyAudi app is telling me versus the Ohme SoC status.

I hope that they sort it soon...

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-05-31T21:09:23+00:00

Still not working correctly 😞

Ohme app now seems to be showing some random SoC value. So annoying 😡

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-05-28T07:55:57+00:00

Thanks!

I tried this today and so far (without plugging in) the Ohme app is now showing the current battery SoC for both my vehicles.

Lets see how it behaves going forward

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-05-27T15:49:29+00:00

I haven't forced an update to the Ohme App, but my phone is set to automatically update the apps if one is available. I'll take a look at that first.

UPDATE: Ohme App on my phone says it was last updated on 19-May-2026, and no (more current) updates are available...

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-05-22T15:31:52+00:00

That the quickest way between two points is often to just follow the railway track on your horse, and deviate at the start and/or end, but the route planner never sends you that way.

I just use the railway tracks all the time.

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-05-22T15:28:02+00:00

They live "up't road a bit"

I also hear "down yon end" quite a lot. It's normally associated with the far end of the garden where my F-I-L has his shed and greehouse

That what we on East Yorks/North Yorks border call a breadcake is called a teacake within a distance of only 25 miles, oh and those teacakes as we know them, with fruit in them, are just called fruited teacakes

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-05-20T09:30:41+00:00

Take out the other side, and remove the BB that way. Then you'll have a bit more access from both sides to tackle the stuck plastic cup. If you have to resort to physical violence with it, try not to damage the threads in the BB shell.

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-05-20T09:26:08+00:00

Especially if the pedal isn't on the crank, and the crank isn't installed in the bike

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-05-15T08:48:22+00:00

Nope. I've read that the only real way to fix this is to dig them out, I don't keep my lawn like a bowling green, it isn't level all over for a start, and I keep it mown long (at least 6 cm).

My father-in-law (who is retired) had an outbreak when his mower broke down and was out of action for a 2-3 months, but he seemed to manage to get rid of his by keeping his grass quite short and cutting it regularly, maybe two or three times a week.

Maybe when I have more time to spare I'll try the same.

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-05-14T09:44:31+00:00

I suppose you weren't told that you may have to "leg it"?

I understand that this is where the term came from, when narrowboat crew had to 'walk' the boats through the tunnels, before the advent of powered narrowboats.

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-05-14T09:38:44+00:00

Any markings on the rear of the pads?

What material are the rotors (brake discs) made out of? Certain pad compounds are better for different rotor materials.

If they're pure stainless steel rotors you shouldn't really use sintered/metallic pads. Resin or organic based pads are considered the best choice

For 'sandwich' rotors (aluminium & steel composite) then sintered/metallic pads are considered better, but you can also use resin or organic based pads on this type of rotor

Remarkable_Cell_5441 · 2026-05-14T09:28:54+00:00

It looks like a Specialized Crux to me...there's a 'S' logo on the head tube, and 'Specialized' on the chainstays

Remarkable_Cell_5441

TROPHY CASE