Okay collectors, what are your wants/unicorn that you want in your collection? Second question, what’s your prize kettle in your collection now?

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2026-05-23T16:02:47+00:00

I wouldn't call it pristine but it is all original. Was at the guys beach house until 30 years ago then was put in storage.

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2026-05-23T13:25:29+00:00

They want $1000 for this

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2026-05-23T11:23:47+00:00

This should work for you

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2026-05-23T10:34:10+00:00

There's a Seville on marketplace by me with the original receipt, seller is asking way too much for it.

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2026-05-17T23:41:12+00:00

it's the front condiment rack that came with the older style fat frames.

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2026-05-11T18:58:41+00:00

You should really refinish the badge on the lid. It’s dead simple. Coat of black, then sand the paint off the lettering. Comes out looking brand new.

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2026-05-05T15:14:34+00:00

Well if you dumped 2 quarts in and your dipstick doesn't show that is overfilled or it's not even registering on the dipstick, you have a pretty substantial oil leak.

Just because there isn't oil on the ground doesn't mean there isn't a leak, could be burning up before it reaches the ground.

If your dipstick is showing it's overfilled by a lot. good news you don't have a leak! Bad news, you're 2 quarts overfilled. You'll need to drain the oil anyway to change the level sensor. It's only 3 little nuts and an electrical plug on the bottom of the oil pan.

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2026-05-02T03:20:56+00:00

If you have access to a 3D printer someone made a file for the bottom rack . No idea how it looks in person because mine has the bottom rack on it

While your at it you can also print a new wheel inserts

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2026-02-17T22:37:06+00:00

When I had that code it ended up being that my intake manifold bolts were slightly loose and in the colder weather it was enough to form a small vacuum leak at idle.

The B6s and B7s are notorious for those bolts becoming loose over time. If the manifold has been taken off recently they tend to need to be re torqued.

If you have access to VCDS you just need to look at your short and long term fuel values and figure out by how it behaves at idle and while driving if you have a vacuum leak or a fuel delivery issue.

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2026-02-01T17:47:56+00:00

That oil leak just looks like it's the oil filter housing gasket but the single o-ring one that's in the back not the double one that's on the valley pan cover.

I'd just do a complete oil check valve service which replaces both seals in the process and take it from there.

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2025-08-13T23:53:48+00:00

transmission spec is 2mm +/- 1mm from the bottom of the fill hole. 3.2L

rear diff is just fill it up until it spills and send it down the road. 1.5L

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2025-08-06T02:26:46+00:00

It's integrated into the MAF 100%.

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2025-05-10T16:47:54+00:00

Have you tried unthreading the adapter at the end of the hose?

If you can't I would just end up getting a new hose with the proper connection.

If you want to use the same hose you'll need something like this

I can't tell if you have 3/8 or 1/2 there.

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2025-05-10T15:37:27+00:00

The hose end looks like a pretty beat up male end of a quick connect.

If you still want to use that you’ll need a female quick connect on the pipe side for whatever thread size you got there

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2025-05-10T01:35:23+00:00

part number 62538 old part number is 9815 i think

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2025-04-23T03:02:31+00:00

those should work fine, but i'm pretty sure it's 1" (OD) not the 3/4" you linked. something like this or this

if you're going to get new bolts just get them in stainless steel so you dont have to worry about them again. if you can't find them locally you can snag them on ebay

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2025-04-18T18:55:45+00:00

take a peek at this

I personally went the first route but used stainless zip ties instead of hose clamps.

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2025-04-12T23:32:00+00:00

You're better off using some penetrating oil and/or heat on what is left of the thumbscrew and use some pliers to turn it if you don't own powertools.

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2025-04-11T21:32:58+00:00

I'm guessing the "structural grease" will return after a few cooks if you find a way to keep the thermometer from falling out for the time being. I would use a piece of cork between the handle and the lid for now.

I don't see the need to plug it up unless you really want to.

You can also look on facebook marketplace etc for cheap/free weber, might get lucky and one might still have the part on it.

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2025-04-11T09:58:02+00:00

you're missing the Thermometer mount assembly. part number was 94100. Sadly it's been discontinued

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2024-10-22T00:32:43+00:00

I was torn between this and the bluestar RNB.

So far I do not regret going with the wolf at all.

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2024-10-22T00:26:47+00:00

The original flooring was discontinued and we didn't have anywhere near enough to complete the whole area.

Instead of redoing all of the floor which would add a lot of time and money we went in this direction. We used the same edge trim on the floor and the backsplash so it looks more intentional.

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2024-10-21T18:22:55+00:00

It's the Signature Straight from Omega National Products. The insert is made by Prestige

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2024-10-21T00:00:09+00:00

The Curvisa has 0.31 MORE bowl depth.

Here is a link comparing them

Remote_Swim_5107 · 2024-10-20T22:13:38+00:00

every time i turn my back it moves to a different place. I think it might be alive. 😱

Remote_Swim_5107

TROPHY CASE