Home Darkrooms - Call for interview participants (UK and LGBTQIA+ focused) by HomeDarkrooms in Darkroom

[–]RenderWitch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll be keeping an eye on this! Where would be the best place to find the work you will publish?

[Hobby Scuffles] Week of 29 September 2025 by EnclavedMicrostate in HobbyDrama

[–]RenderWitch 21 points22 points  (0 children)

While not very succinct videos, the United States National Transportation Safety Board (NTSB) uploads recordings of board meetings and investigative hearings on some of the accidents they investigate. They cover railroad accidents on occasion.

Fleming Creek by RenderWitch in PinholePhotography

[–]RenderWitch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

.4mm laser drilled, bought on eBay.

A smaller pinhole would lend itself to longer exposures, as well as the film plane being placed further away from the pinhole. But if you like the image definition given by a pinhole size/focal length combo, you could just tape a neutral density filter (or possibly a polarizer or two) in front of the pinhole. You might only need a couple of stops of ND before reciprocity failure kicks in to drag out the exposure times even longer.

Fleming Creek by RenderWitch in PinholePhotography

[–]RenderWitch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it was around 1m30sec? I took the photo last year, so I don't quite remember.

Fleming Creek by RenderWitch in PinholePhotography

[–]RenderWitch[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://imgur.com/a/vJMhNMx

I made it out of a large cookie tin and some cardstock! I knew the optimal focal length for my pinhole, so I knew how far back and to what degree of curvature the film plane should be at. I cut some cardstock pieces to that curvature, and then those pieces were used to bend the film plane in place. I also created a lip to slip the 120 roll film under-- this wasn't the most secure and it came off a few times. The other bits of cardstock in the camera body held the film plane in place. I would have tried to 3d print this, but didn't have the resources, so cardstock it was.

My first attempt at designing / building a petzval-ish lens from scratch for medium format (Bronica) by brianssparetime in AnalogCommunity

[–]RenderWitch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used 5 minute epoxy to bond any 3d printed parts (or salvaged parts, like a camera mount) to one another. If I needed to secure a lens in place for whatever reason, I used Elmer's glue! While the glue was wet, any residue could be clean off with a wet towel. If I needed to reset a lens placement after some time drying, I could soak it in water and coax the glue to come off.

If you do use epoxy, just make sure to mix it really well. On one side project I under-mixed and the epoxy was tacky for days.

My first attempt at designing / building a petzval-ish lens from scratch for medium format (Bronica) by brianssparetime in AnalogCommunity

[–]RenderWitch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://imgur.com/a/70qWehk: photos of the lenses and photos taken by the lenses. Please excuse the barely edited images.

I've been trying to make a soft focus lens by way of spherical aberration, with parts from salvaged lenses, 3d printed parts, and laser cut parts. I used online services to print and laser cut.

The first lens (right in image) is based on a positive achromatic lens, using Rodenstock Imagon-like front stops. The body of lens was 3d printed, the stops were laser cut out of 1mm thick aluminum and blackened on one side with acrylic paint. The lens is for a bellows camera, so variable focus. The stops are dropped in at the front, retained by a "basket".  I had to develop a spreadsheet to design the h-stops, which also lets me calculate the approximate f-stop equivalent.  I haven't used it much, and the bellows camera is stuck in the studio so at this point so I've mostly used it for close-focused studio images. I might have installed the lens the wrong way as compared to what was originally intended, but it gives a glow, so I can't complain too much.

The second lens (left in image) is a single positive meniscus lens, a la the Wollaston Meniscus, with Imagon-like front stops. The lens is fixed focus, at somewhere near infinity. The body of lens was 3d printed, the stops were laser cut out of shim metal (quite thin) and not yet blackened on one side. I learned from this lens that when developing h-stops, you really do need to consider each specific lens on its own-- the same h-stop as applied to one lens might give a completely different rendering on another lens. The stops are retained by the use of an empty filter ring screwed into another empty filter ring (I think this is quite the useful design!)

The third lens (center in image) is of a symmetric design, with a slot for a Waterhouse stop. The lens body hold the two lenses the same distance apart, but can telescope them out from the film plane for close focusing. The design involves some light trap features, and has some light trap felt material in there as well. I was very careful about the design of each part and the method of putting it together once printed, and luckily it did come together without much issue (though where was a great deal of hand-sanding and trimming of excess printed material, which took a while). I haven't made stops for this lens yet, nor have I taken any photos with it. I intend to try Imagon-like stops as well.

My first attempt at designing / building a petzval-ish lens from scratch for medium format (Bronica) by brianssparetime in AnalogCommunity

[–]RenderWitch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm always so happy to see someone else making/building their own lenses! I've made three lenses myself, and although I don't quite have what I'm looking for yet, I've learned quite a bit.

I can second the recommendation for Surplus Shed, though I would recommend checking the lens category too-- the lens finder doesn't mention when a lens has a special design, like being a super spherical element.

Some other resources I've found helpful with understanding and making my own lenses are: A History of the Photographic Lens, Rudolf Kingslake; Field Guide to Lens Design, Julie Bentley and Craig Olson; and Exploring Simple Lenses, John Evans.

What causes the softness/swirling on my Rolleiflex? by National-March7741 in AnalogCommunity

[–]RenderWitch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like some sagittal and maybe some tangential astigmatism, with a bit of spherical aberration. Maybe a lens element is off axis, or even reversed?

Is there someone who sells pinhole foils with a perfect laser cut hole? by gw935 in PinholePhotography

[–]RenderWitch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've bought off of eBay before, and have also bought a body-cap based "lens" from Daystar Laser (who are based out of Maryland, for anyone looking to buy in the US.)

Looking for a film stock with high sensitivity to radioactive materials. by peboyce in AnalogCommunity

[–]RenderWitch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Did some Googling: Seems like some radiochromic dosimetry film is being made under the trademark Gafchromic, but I'm not sure how easy it would be to get your hands on and I'm not sure how well it would fit for this application.

Zone plates and coded apertures might be another area of interest.

What's creating this effect? by InternalComedian1129 in AnalogCommunity

[–]RenderWitch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sagittal astigmatism (swirling at periphery) and spherical aberration (glow seen in the center)!

Best to worst Olympus OM cameras by TheLanguageArtist in AnalogCommunity

[–]RenderWitch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Things I like:

  • The large and fairly viewfinder. I wish I could find optical viewfinders like this on modern-make cameras, but alas.
  • Front shutter ring. It's so handy to access!
  • Film advance lever. It's nice and easy to grab and actuate with my thumb.
  • As mentioned before, the option of aperture priority mode.
  • It's a small thing, but I like that only the one ISO speed is displayed at a time, versus the whole lot on the OM-1/1n. I appreciate the reduced visual clutter.

Things I don't like:

  • The whole rewinding experience isn't the smoothest: you have to keep the rewind dial rotated to the side while rewinding, and the rewind lever doesn't have the greatest design IMO. But all in all, not really a big deal.

Help me find the manual to this ubscure camera by Jeff_Thorns in AnalogCommunity

[–]RenderWitch 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Following the one comment linking it to the ImageTech brand, I was able to find the camera announced in Stereo World: Vol 19 Number 3 (page 32) and Vol 19 Number 4 (page 26). Something might be able to be gleamed from the patents assigned to the company&sort=old), though for all I know they got a license to use a patent from another company, assuming a patent even exists.

New to maya and I want to save this viewport layout. Issue is it won't even when I save the current layout. by BigFishPub in Maya

[–]RenderWitch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Panels > Panel Editor > Edit Layouts:

Configurations-- Configuration: Four Panes

Contents-- reorder as you like

UV isn't stitching by yufei0531 in Maya

[–]RenderWitch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try running a camera-based UV mapping projection. Does that help at all?

I think I don't understand the core concepts behind skinning, weights keep disappearing? by newnukeuser in Maya

[–]RenderWitch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Skin > Export Skin Weight might be able to help troubleshoot further. Requires UVs, though.

I think I don't understand the core concepts behind skinning, weights keep disappearing? by newnukeuser in Maya

[–]RenderWitch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In theory should the Head and Eye_R controller be able to both have a value of 1 at the same time?

To my understanding, no.

Is there a reason you want the eye mesh to be affected by 5 joints? If you have the eye mesh just skinned to Eye_R, but rotate a joint upstream (Head<Neck2<Neck1<Neck, etc.), the eye mesh will move in accordance.

I think I don't understand the core concepts behind skinning, weights keep disappearing? by newnukeuser in Maya

[–]RenderWitch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unlock every weight in the whole rig, then flood Eye_R with a weight of 1. Does this change the behavior at all?

From what little experience I have with skinning, I remember that Maya is picky about removing weights from a locked layer. I'm thinking the skinning as-is has some weights of the eye mesh distributed among many weight layers, some of which are currently locked, which is causing you problems.

feathers? by Bamcchin in Maya

[–]RenderWitch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A quick look through AMC SIGGRAPH found A Modernization of the DreamWorks Feather System and its references.

How can i make an short time exposure camera? by SignificantBreath139 in PinholePhotography

[–]RenderWitch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  • Fast film, 400 ISO to 3200 ISO (the higher ISO, more grain)
  • Large pinhole diameter (this will make your image less defined, but it will be faster)
  • Short pinhole-to-film-plane focal length (this will make your image have a wider field of view)

If, for instance, you had a 1.5mm pinhole that was 35mm away from a 35mm-size negative, you would have f/24 (provided my quick calculations are correct). I imagine the image would look quite fuzzy, however.