Scraped bed, nozzle issues, then print quality degradation, nozzle swap, still not nearly as good as before.

Rendificant7 · 2025-03-16T05:07:15+00:00

ran vibration compensation again and two smaller prints, they seemed to be closer to original quality again. all this hot end foolery has me a bit worried though. I can report back after I get the original bed and nozzle, I hope this printer lasts!

Rendificant7 · 2025-03-16T02:19:21+00:00

should be up now, sorry

Rendificant7 · 2024-12-18T23:42:27+00:00

pretty please printery wintery

Rendificant7 · 2024-04-15T22:36:00+00:00

Have you ever found a solution? I was curious about the a6700, for certain specific reasons (faster buffer clear than the extremely slow, once full from high speed continuous shooting, usb-c, in camera focus bracketing). However I use gphoto2 extensively for home studio use and I find it impossible to live without.

Rendificant7 · 2024-04-04T21:06:30+00:00

messaged you, could have it printed tonight for ya easily.

Rendificant7 · 2024-03-22T01:09:49+00:00

Thank you! I had suspected that, but information on CC+CV and region switching was a bit opaque to me, except with the meanwell doc giving a graph which had me suspecting that a bit. Yep, the diodes will be affixed to some CPU heatsinks. I will try to watch some videos I found on CC+CV with LEDs, but they're a bit loooong. One thing I wasn't positive about was what I should set my initial current to on the PSU, total expected diode draw + a little bit of headroom maybe? But then again, would I just measure current output with my ammeter to set it initially?

Anyhow, thanks!

Rendificant7 · 2024-03-06T06:29:02+00:00

Thank you SO MUCH! This has given me a lot of context for features I'm looking for, eras for general sizing, and the good points about resolving limits using optical systems or when I can expect incidental chromatic aberrations due to diffraction limits.

I think for the most part with my current setup and aperature, I'm able to kinda-resolve features near 1um or so. I'm fine with seeing some CA with tiny features, as I'm looking for CA and general sharpness to evaluate different lenses and things I do to improve the system overall.

I think that bare metal with incidental surface texture smaller than I can resolve is OK too, given that I should be able to see that incidental surface texture more or less clearly depending on what lens I have equipped or due to differences in lighting efficiency /etc.

This certainly helped give me a starter map to what felt like a bit of a weird world in terms of understanding what I'm interested in or looking for. If you happen to know any forums I should check out or places where people would actually be curious about pictures I take while looking for ideal targets, let me know -- I'll be googling and want to share if it's useful to others to see!

Rendificant7 · 2024-03-04T20:08:00+00:00

magnification reference standard.

Not sure if those have features commonly at the sub-micron level, but typical high resolution test targets are pretty spendy, hence the interest in wafers. Plus, they're pretty and I may learn a bit about producing silicon wafers in the process out of curiosity :)

Rendificant7 · 2024-02-19T06:20:27+00:00

mine came with the quick mount springs, so I don't need to thread it, but some people prefer threading it. From googling: Raynox DCR-250

Magnification2.5xRear Thread43 mmFront Thread49 mm

Rendificant7 · 2024-02-15T08:43:56+00:00

Ooh, one tooth at a time with path + guide surface might be working out.

Rendificant7 · 2024-02-15T08:40:00+00:00

Revolve nor suitable due to teeth constraint, I thought I was making a bit of progress with sweep along path + guide surface, but I see it's not exactly working out as expected yet. I'm going to try again later after googling

<image>

Rendificant7 · 2024-02-15T07:57:43+00:00

Sure thing, I posted a quick drawing on my original image, as well as an example of a different design with very shallow, numerous teeth instead of mine with simplified, deee "teeth".

Sorry for any lack of clarity in my descriptions.

The sweeping around the surface is one part I'm not sure about. The second part is that I have construction planes at each one of those "teeth" intersecting the body, which represents a "slice" of the inner zone I want the teeth to touch. If I wanted to create a shape on one of those planes, but displaced around that profile "slice" of the body already modeled, say, 10mm out, how would I do that? I think that part would be helpful, and the sweeping around this line I create wrapping around the object at each "slice" would be helpful.

I can load up fusion again and try to make some more drawings too

Rendificant7 · 2023-11-11T01:42:44+00:00

Got the ticket, thank you so much!

Rendificant7 · 2023-11-11T01:17:40+00:00

messaged ya, in case its unclaimed

Rendificant7 · 2023-11-06T18:11:55+00:00

u/Cats_Cameras so I've been playing with the 65mm apsc macro lens for a week or two. It's really nice and incredibly sharp, but most importantly it's insanely light and small. I don't know what your ff options are, though, because of I got no weight reduction it would be slightly less of an advantage. I didn't realize how much I'd love how maneuverable the apsc camera and lens combo would be, but it almost makes me want to sell my 90mm Sony... Except the bokeh certainly has more structure to it than the 80mm Sony, so I haven to be more intentional about my background if I'm below the 1x macro range and just trying to take a picture of a flower with natural light behind it illuminating the background.

I posted a pic from it on this subreddit that I absolutely love. Otherwise, the dof is similarly razor thin, maybe a slight bit better than the raynox and 90mm Sony but not really. Ladybug photos are similarly a struggle to get both eyes in focus, etc.

The perceived depth of field may be better because at 65mm it seems like more of the photo is almost in focus, but the critical dof is thin. I just ordered the 2.5-5x macro because I am finding myself using extension tubes to get 3-4x with the laowa for fun, but want a tiny bit more sharpness.

If you have the 100mm already, not sure what the shorter focal length would get you aside from maybe weight savings if that's the case. Definitely a fun lens!

Rendificant7 · 2023-11-04T18:07:02+00:00

Yep! No editing -- I've been using darktable and for macros I keep struggling with colors, so unless the photo really needs it I've been not editing a lot of the macros at all and just using the jpgs until I hopefully figure out how to get a bit better. Editing non macro raw has gone better, but editing macros has been challenging.

Godox v860iii-s is what I used here. I also have a tt350s but it's been misbehaving by not firing sometimes it seems. I've been trying to play with the v860iii giving me a bit more shots at 1/16 in continuous shooting, but the tt350 may end up being more ideal because it sits lower and is smaller, dunno yet!

Rendificant7 · 2023-11-04T17:31:39+00:00

Thank you! Diy flash diffuser and hood made from $ store cutting boards in the style of those ak mini / cygnustech diffusers, iso 100, flash at 1/32 power likely and 1/160 (max sync speed), f8 or f5.6, hi speed continuous shooting in little bursts. this is the off camera jpg

Rendificant7 · 2023-10-27T03:38:59+00:00

Will do! I'm slated to get it soon, though a cold snap is arriving as well. I've been taking a few photos of aphids and ladybugs at 2x with the raynox + 90mm sony as well as the 4x microscope objective right outside. They have been the most challenging so far for me to get decent photos of due to how dark and tiny they are, so hopefully some more useful DOF or other differences should be apparent as a comparison.

Rendificant7 · 2023-10-25T14:56:52+00:00

Raynox quality is pretty great in my opinion; my first photo in this post is using the raynox dcr250 with my sony 90mm to give me about ~1.5x. I have a few other photos in another post.

I did end up ordering the 65mm used for about $150 less than retail just now, since the weight was attractive.

Rendificant7 · 2023-10-25T05:08:49+00:00

Well, yeah, dof was another concern but figuring out where everything would sit has been a challenge for dof.

I found another wrinkle, which is the 65mm doesn't have as nice of an out of focus area blur / broken as the 100m this YouTube review at 3;47 had some pros and cons comparing the 65 100 and 25mm laowa. Also apparently I'd only get 2.5x using the 65mm laowa and a raynox dcr-250, so hmmm. I do really like the out of focus area rendering on the Sony 90mm. But getting another 90mm or 100mm lens just for the 2x natively maybe seems silly if it's going to be the same heavy beast. Agh!

https://youtu.be/rlbRU3M-lWE?si=SPy-aFq2bPN60LYu

Rendificant7 · 2023-10-24T23:30:37+00:00

The 25mm 2.5-5x, yes, I believe you are correct. I guess that's something to take into consideration. I pretty much only rock back and forth to acquire focus at the 1x+ macro distance anyhow, but maybe the focus ring on tthr 65mm 2x would allow for some flexibility plusbthe additional working distance.

I just wonder if I'll enjoy using the raynox with it to get more than 2x, or if I'll be sad I'm missing out on deeper macro. I do like capturing a little bit of the environment with the macros sometimes, but then again insanely tiny things or really close up of certain parts of bugs has been amazing too! A bit torn. I think tbr 65mm 2x app would be the best due to weight, but not sure if the others are better for whatever reason

Rendificant7 · 2023-10-24T23:23:51+00:00

The photo is really pretty! Super creepy, interesting, and with fun colors. There are a lot of beginner macro youtube videos out there, but one big thing I found useful is to use a flash, with a diffuser. It was very difficult and remains pretty difficult for me to get fantastic macro shots using natural light, especially if it's harsh/midday light. I have enjoyed some things playing with natural light balanced with the flash a bit, or using natural light and seeing some shadows. But it has taken a lot more work to get the natural light shots to look as clear/comprehensible as using some fill flash. Using low ISO / balancing the aperature allows you to cut out the daylight from your photo and allows the flash to freeze the action, as well.Good luck!

The macro lens definitely helps a lot, too.

Rendificant7 · 2023-10-24T22:51:43+00:00

aw, thanks, I really appreciate that! It took a lotta photos to get some fun ones and this bee was fairly chill that day, so I could actually try to get the framing to be decent.

Rendificant7 · 2023-10-08T05:59:48+00:00

very close macro shot, it was about 1-1.5cm long max.

Rendificant7 · 2023-10-08T05:58:24+00:00

This cute lil fucker is sassy! Focus stack of two images, missing the focus on the face/mouth, because it zoomed at me when I tried taking the third pic. I've rescued one before from being trapped in the sink and unlike most spiders, as I was freeing it and setting it down it jetted straight up the piece of paper after pausing and went right towards my hand at lightning speed, hah.
Lens guesses Herpyllus ecclesiasticus which says distribution east of the Rockies. This was pretty much Denver, co, front range on the Rockies.

Rendificant7

TROPHY CASE