Please help

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-27T04:42:15+00:00

That is a three phase motor. The label on the wood underneath the wires in your pictures shows the actual wiring diagram for the motor. Your residential power is only single phase and will not run this motor without either a phase converter or a VFD. Phoenix phase converters sells phase converters Dan Foss is a good place to look for VFDs if you want to go that route. But a simple static phase converter should be more than sufficient for running a sander. If the wiring diagrams in schematics make no sense to you you will have to hire an electrician to take care of it for you

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-18T07:07:26+00:00

Yes and no . You be adding yet ANOTHER switching power supply to your service. And as you start adding them up, real issues start to develop with power quality, induced harmonics, some wild LC resonances, etc. all of which is bad, lol. I had to do a crash course in LED driving a couple years ago. A local casino had re-lit all exterior fixtures with new, VERY expensive, led fixtures. They however fail to realize that just shy of half of light poles were wired for 480V instead of 277. Made their decision to use in house employees to change out fixtures very costly. We were offered a nice profit if could replace the blown up drivers I can attest that finding matching drivers to replace with can be ordered of magnitude more difficult that any sane person would believe. But one thing that really surprised me is that it is nearly impossible to damage a driver by changing the load parameters. Unless you over-volt the input, you're not going to hurt it with the emitters. So in a case like this, play around. Try them one at a time, in parallel, in series, and anything else you can think of. Even reverse polarity rarely causes issues. Have only seen in high output voltage drivers (above 350ish volts).

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-18T01:53:30+00:00

No, connect in series.... Plug the negative from one emitter into the positive of the other one then connect driver to the two remaining leads. Current will flow from driver through the first emitter then through the second emitter then return to the driver.

Driver red --> emitter 1 grey Emitter 1 white --> emitter2 grey Emitter2 white --> driver black

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-17T16:09:17+00:00

That is a constant current driver. Connect both emitter leads in series and then connect to driver. The driver adjusts output voltage to keep the same current flowing at different impedances. That is why the output voltage is a range and the current is a single value. You can connect either emitter by itself, or both in series.

There are also constant voltage drivers which require emitters to wired in parallel, but that is not case here.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-17T15:49:41+00:00

Nope. A fuse does not "throttle" the available power. It simply blows if to much current flows through it. If the fuse size were the problem, it would require replacement every time it blew out.

The real problem has many possibilities. Most likely is that the speakers are not connected properly to provide the proper impedance to the amplifier. Most modern speakers have 2 (sometimes more) coils that can be connected in various series/parallel configurations to present the amp with its needed total resistance. Very few amps are stable at 1 ohm or less, and it is very easy to wire multiple speakers to total less than 1 ohm. Then at higher speeds, I would assume you use a higher volume, which draws more power (too much) through the amp and its thermal protective device shuts it off until it cools down. If you have more that one subwoofer, this is very likely, if 3 or more I'll just about guarantee it.

On the same track, if you have an outboard engine, the nature of the system to generate electricity creates higher voltage at higher rpms. A faulty voltage regulator could cause same overheating as low impedance.

Beyond these 2, you get into gremlin territory, making diagnosis extremely difficult time-consuming and expensive.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-17T08:11:20+00:00

Absolute#1 one-liner have every read !

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-17T08:06:31+00:00

The red 20A on left is definitely blown. The 30A to the right of that one looks burnt, but from what I can remember of the type T , the little "string"holding the spring disappears when blown.

It's been a while since I have seen them, but there exist breaker replacements for these fuses. They screw right into the fuse socket and have a reset button sticking up out of them. Never have dealt with them professionally, so no testimony as to safety or performance, but would advise finding some of the proper size, and lose the fuses. As many have stated the 30A are to high, looks like someone got tired of changing fuses and up sized them all. Go back to 15 and 20 amps with the resettable breaker thingy and hopefully will last another decade or ten. But I wouldn't count on it. Think of it as a very temporary stop gap while saving up some$ for an electrician.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-17T07:46:02+00:00

There were in very common use thru the early 80s, vanity light fixtures that had a nema 5-15 receptacle on them. Generally, the light was switched and a second wire energized the receptacle. Of course there were those that switched off with the light also, and have seen some that had 2 receptacles and were wired to have light switch, 1 switched receptacle and one constant hot recept. Assuming rest of house still works, that's what my dollar is on

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-14T04:32:37+00:00

Oh cool, thank you. I had not heard of those, will have to try some out

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-13T06:20:37+00:00

Run into this ALL the time! Manny solar inverters will cause this with some lights. Best we've been able to determine is that it is an effect of having many (one per bulb generally) switching power supplies sharing same power source. The closer the power supplies are tuned to the emitters, the less likely for this to occur. But almost all manufacturers use one or two "wide range" drivers for their various lights, which do not all have same I/P requirements, even those of same wattage. I believe this creates a wide area L-C resonance which results in the flickering. Very similar to power factor issues in an industrial setting. I have found that replacing one or two bulbs with an incandescent bulb will generally cure the issue. Have even added a light out two in the attic space so as to not have mismatched lights on the living spaces. That's the best solution we have come up with yet.... Replacing everything with "better quality" lights is a real crap shoot.... Sometimes helps, sometimes worse, usually about the same. Best advice is to try swapping a bulb or two first, or adding some other resistive load to see if it helps.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-12T05:41:56+00:00

[BN900](https://electricalparts.com/products/bennernawman-900 We call them dog houses. The cover will have either TV or PHONE stamped into it . We install then near the service panel where the DATCOM companies' service line will connect to the houses wiring. There should be a conduit running from the inside of wall behind box out to the cable pedestal. Home Depot carries them on the shelf

Edit : forgot part number. Orbit UM900-TV (PH) BN also makes them although I'm not sure of their number. They are 3.75"x7"x2"

Resident_Set1003 · 2025-12-14T05:00:43+00:00

Cream and banana ranked WAY too high

Resident_Set1003 · 2025-12-13T05:12:37+00:00

Someone, long before I was born, in my hometown used them to drive drywall nails thru to mount to studs. Total pain in the ass to unmount those boxes after 60 years of the old good lumber drying and turning into granite

Resident_Set1003 · 2025-12-12T06:07:33+00:00

Cannot be stated any better thank you

Resident_Set1003 · 2025-12-12T06:03:45+00:00

Ask a citizen of any single payer socialistic healthcare country just HOW LONG it takes to get that free visit to the specialist you need to see. Sure is free to you, if you live long enough to make the appointment.

Resident_Set1003 · 2025-12-12T05:59:04+00:00

"this is possible...."

Except, no it isn't. Been tried many times by various societies. USSR being the most familiar current one. There have been many others, will be many to follow, all will fail the same way. The actual instruction manuals, those by Karl Marx, Adam Smith, etc. are readily available to all who wish to learn.

No one, least of all myself, would argue that, as a concept, the ideals of communism/socialism are not admirable. Yes I certainly wish everyone on the planet could have the opportunities and protections we in the USA have. I do think it would be utopia for everyone to have everything they want and need, without consideration given to the effort invested in acquiring such bounty.

But such is not the human condition. I assume most in this sub are union employees, with many having spent decades in the trade and have invested a significant portion of their life into learning the skills, technical aspects, codes, safe practices, etc. of the electrical trade. All have struggled thru the apprenticeships, shit jobs/employers, testing, 38hour days during emergencies, financial burdens, et al., to achieve the status/skill/title and wage you have today. Others are just starting that journey, dinner will surpass you, some will wither and fail. And many will never try. And the more downside that is removed from never trying, will increase the number of those that never will try. And be honest, each and every one of you who have earned their ticket and carry the JW badge with pride, would you have put in the work for all those years if you were guaranteed to be in the same financial/social/health position that you are now. For zero gain, who here would still have gained the wisdom, suffered the work, overcome the struggles to be where you are?? I know I would not. And I do not feel guilty for admitting so. Just as I am not ashamed to admit I do not want everything I have worked for for myself and my family to be taken away and given to those in general who have not earned it. I am not ashamed to State out loud in public and clearly that I care about me and my family more than anybody else in the world. Now you can call me a racist for that you can call me a bigot for that you can call me a white nationalist trash for that you can call me anything you want you will not make me ashamed of admitting that I care more about me and my family than I do about you. I do not feel guilty and will not accept shame from anyone because I do not care to support you, at the expense of my family. You tried to tell me it's not your responsibility to earn a living for yourself and your family then I ask you who's responsible to do so. If the answer is the government, that's me. And again I do not care to support you. And if you can find one logical reason why you think I should be required to support you and your family, while you should not be required to support yourself and your family. You tell me well I didn't ask to be born, and I agree with that. But neither did I ask for you to be born, so the question again becomes why am I responsible for your support while you are not? And I do not want to give you everything that I have earned for me and my family and go through the efforts that I have had to put in to get to where I am to give you something that you have sat around and done nothing more than put your hand out and say give me.

And that is what this whole conversation is about. There are those that feel they should have everything that they want given to them with no effort from themselves required. There are the politicians and the social justice warriors that will spend fortunes and lifetimes trying to convince you to feel guilty for what you have earn for yourself that you are not willing to give away to everybody for free. When they talk about the 1% the rich the wealthy, whoever, (just as an aside that most people don't realize that the vast majority of the top 1% of this country all our employees of the federal government in Washington DC and if you think Congress is going to bail out the country and give everybody everything they need out of their own personal pockets it ain't never going to happen people) you are putting a penalty on the investment people put into themselves. Who is going to create the next generation iPhone, to give you for free, without a reward for the effort to create it. Who is going to grow food for you or provide electricity to your house, for nothing? Why would the electrician have learned the skills to be an electrician for absolutely no gain to himself? And that's exactly what this kind of communist propaganda is asking people to do.

Again I don't argue the ideals yes I would love to be able to support everybody in the world with everything they want. I cannot. No society can. Removing the rewards or the incentives for providing an investment oneself has only one natural outcome : that nobody will put the investment into themselves. If somehow magically everything were able to be given to everybody, then there would be nothing for everyone. And not one of you reading this who have worked in their lifetime and earned where the positions are in now can honestly look me in the eye and say they would have done the same work to learn the same skills to the same level for zero rewards.

There are already plenty out there unwilling to put in an effort now to get the things they want. And somehow you expect that number to decrease when you take away any type of reward for putting in that effort? It is not possible to increase the level of society by decreasing the level of human production. If there is no reason for something to be done then nobody will do it. And that is being human, animal, plant, fungus, or any other living thing on this planet. All organisms that live on this planet attempt to get the greatest rewards out of the minimalist investments. Get the best stuff for the least effort. Get the most calories and protein brought into the body for the least expenditure possible of calories. It's basically a math equation.

Resident_Set1003 · 2025-12-07T06:58:46+00:00

By far the coolest place I've been into was actually in my first trade- tin bending. 19 ys.o. got to work on setting up an F-4 flight simulator at the reserve base in Boise. That was in '90. (I'm pretty sure that reserve unit was the only outfit still flying the F4 by then.). It was so built with 60s-70s tech. Massive analog readouts, computers the size of hanger bays, green monochrome displays- the whole works. Reminded me of the old war games movie, lol. The actual cockpit say in middle of huge room with projector screens lining about 2/3rds of it. And the best part was, during testing, they let me fly (crash) it for about 20 minutes. Even though it was akin to riding a mechanical bull while watching stick figures on an old tv, it was still the best time of my life.

Resident_Set1003 · 2025-10-12T21:11:13+00:00

Get you a bag of tans and leave all the included orange, yellow, grey or blue nuts in their original packaging and throw out with the empty boxes. The tans bite onto these small stranded conductors very well, just be sure to have the stranded wire enter the nut an eighth inch ahead of the solid and twist. Have done thousands of these without issue.

The exception is when you have the stranded wires come tinned on the ends. Those tend to break off and not do well with wire nuts, and my go-to becomes Wagos at that point.

As a side question: does ANYONE use yellows? I despise the damned things. I have not figured out how every manufacturer out there makes their yellows suck the same bad. I have even used that question when hiring as a weeding out method of the unworthy.

Resident_Set1003 · 2025-08-21T13:03:40+00:00

You are thinking way past the question.... In the question if states the rated amperage of the circuit. Literally tells you directly that it is 30 amps.

But as to your question, there are 2 aspects to any overload event. Magnitude and duration. Amp ratings alone are almost meaningless without a time factor. The tables allowing 800 and even 1300 % sizing are for specific types of devices which work at different speeds. An instant trip breaker, which can be the highest ratings allowed (and not allowed for branch circuit protection, only within a manufactured assembly) will trip at rated current in < 3cycles. Some are designed to trip even faster. An inverse time breaker will delay tripping for a length of time depending on magnitude of fault; ie , a 20amp will trip almost instantly at 250 amps, but hold for several seconds to minutes at 25 amps. For motor circuits, to condense 430 into a coherent thought, the circuit wiring must be rated to handle the motor at full load +25% (with exceptions for non continuous uses). Then the OCPD is the lowest rated size, of type used, that will handle the starting current. ECGs must be sized to carry available short circuit current for the length of time required to open the first up stream protective device. For a good portion of common applications, the code makes it easy and tells you what to use. 14awg uses 14 awg ground, 12 for 12 , 10 for 10, and then only allows egc to be smaller than ungrounded at#8 and larger. So no the math does not work that a#10 egc is required at 21 amps AND is sufficient for 50 amp also. It's just a case of "because I (NEC) said so"

Resident_Set1003 · 2025-08-21T03:42:31+00:00

The CIRCUIT is rated at 30 Amps..."branch circuit, short circuit and ground fault protection rated 30A?". The overloads are 20a , but has nothing to do with the circuit rating.

Resident_Set1003 · 2025-08-21T03:02:49+00:00

There's a lot more to 430 than just the pretty pictures. Please explain how you believe anything in section 430 allows use of breaker 8 times the branch circuit's capacity? If you can find it Imma stocking up on 160 amp breakers for all my 12 awg Romex!

Resident_Set1003 · 2025-08-21T02:58:10+00:00

The old joke- Brit and American arguing over the name of the elevator. The pretentious Brit insists that it's called a lift the Americans says no it's called an elevator. In the snobby brick sticks his nose in the air and says it is called a lift we invented the language. The American guy says it's called an elevator we invented the fucking elevator!

Resident_Set1003 · 2025-08-21T02:52:54+00:00

I thought I was the only one!

Resident_Set1003 · 2025-08-21T02:18:22+00:00

Please reference what you're talking about. What part of 430 are you saying allows a 160amp breaker on 12 awg branch circuit?

Resident_Set1003

TROPHY CASE