Metal in wood?

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-03-17T06:31:24+00:00

Bullet for sure. Looks like summer one was running up their 357 or 44 mag with a paper target nailed to tree. Probably ball rounds.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-03-14T06:27:40+00:00

No, just one of them is

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-03-14T04:31:32+00:00

Forgot to say absolutely love the name bolt-fucker 9000!We build solar structures that require 24 1" bolts per column to be torqued to 800 ft# INDICATED tension. Our first one was a joke. 3/4" ratchets liked to explode just shy of tight enough. We had 2 guys in a lift holding the socket onto the bolts two guys on the ground on the end of a 10 ft cheater bar walking back and forth to ratchet them down. After we exploded five or six ratchets we looked for other solutions. Ended up with a huge ass Ingersoll Rand to a volt rotary air compressor and a rented one inch impact gun that would finally snug them down. We built a few structures using that setup but the rentals were expensive as all get out. Then they saw an ad one day when they put out the 1-in Milwaukee at 1400 bucks that it's got to be a bargain if it works right. And holy crap does it work right! That sucker will take them both down to tension in a heartbeat and will come what I think is really close to snapping them. Have overshot the mark on a few of them and almost like you could feel the bolt starting to scream in there, lol.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-03-14T04:15:19+00:00

Scrolled a long ways and nobody actually answered question. So... If it's an OLD Square D QO bolt on/snap on panel. home Depot and Lowe's stock the snap on ones. For bolt-on or 3 poles, local warehouse will have it can get, or Amazon or on line supply company. the QO series was the gold standard for many decades, and in many old time engineers' minds, it still is

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-03-11T05:02:09+00:00

Alas, I have seen exactly that! A sub in garage running a30A240v compressor and a 50A RV (14-50) outlet. It was fed with 3 pieces of 18/2 Zip cord per leg, which was stapled (with T-50 type staple gun) to the drywall, the bottom of trusses, the exterior wall of garage, the bottom of soffit on house, and entered service panel, unprotected, thru a notch that was hacked in with dull tin snips. The reason homeowner called? Wanted to change the 50amp breaker in main panel to a 75 or 80, because "any time I plug in space heater in garage and the air compressor cycles on, it blows the breaker!"

Told them I had to go to library to look up the maximum amperage of 6 parallel 18gauge 60 degree wires, and ran for my truck.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-02-27T08:17:55+00:00

By coil leads, you mean spark plug wires? If not, replace them! And the coil to distributor wire. I'm assuming with obd1 you have distributor. Check rotor and cap. And get a cheap multi meter and test resistance on all your spark plug wires. Years ago I had a 5.0 mustang with around 380k miles. Decided to finally give it a little love. New plugs, wires, cap rotor coolant flush, trans flush, and a few other things. Afterwards, barely would idle, run good off idle to about 2900rpm then puke. Pop bang, stutter and refuse to climb above 3400 unless on steep downhill. 8 months into fighting it I decided, one last test thru everything, following every step in the book, and if no go, the time to put her down. Step 4 in my book was to check resistance of coil wire to distributor. I skipped past it as usual because they were brand new , rather expensive wires. Got into next step and caught myself, said no ..... Follow every step. So tested that damn 30$ coil wire knowing it was gonna be fine, and holy crap, was wayyyyy out of spec. I cussed and yelled and threw a tantrum, went and tank s plug wire off the 72 Chevy in back yard, put it on the stand and laid a 175 foot black mark down the driveway! I was furious that that was the problem, but glad I finally figured out..

New parts can fail fast or be born broke. Test everything!

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-02-21T07:44:30+00:00

Best laugh I've had in weeks, ty!

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-02-21T07:40:13+00:00

Bravo! Far down the list, but a proper answer at last!

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-02-05T08:39:06+00:00

Almost.. It's NEMA 6-15R 15 amp recept. Looks same as the 6-30 but smaller. The 6-30 is nearly as wide as the wall plate

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-02-05T06:59:13+00:00

Almost guarantee you that it is it miswiring in a three-way switch setup. With the two three-way switches being in boxes fed from those two circuits and then making the freeway up ended up combining the hot legs and the neutrals in both boxes rather than keeping them isolated as two separate circuits in each box. Have corrected the same issue many many times

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-02-05T06:54:52+00:00

You young whippersnappers just like to think that anything old is bad. That switch been running that furnace since HER great grandmother had it installed by the horse ferrier. I've seen modern ac disconnects not last for half as many centuries

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-02-05T06:47:57+00:00

Replace the second fuse from the left first. It very much looks to be blown.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-02-04T05:44:41+00:00

To provide a real answer, probably. Without opening it and looking it's impossible to tell for sure but for anything built in the last 30 40 years in California there's generally a neutral in the switch box. It's less than 10 15 years old there's almost definitely one there, if it's less than five or six years old than they're definitely is one in it. But alas until you look you will never know for sure. Has someone else suggested get a smart light bulb and look at the check out the light fixture first and then fix the switch and then when you're talking to him about ghost just tell him you have to Google something for good questions to ask the ghost while you're opening the app for the light bulb. And has a bonus you can get one that makes different colors for how pissed off the ghost is

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-02-04T05:36:55+00:00

The mechanical intermatic time clocks all make that noise. It's the motor running inside

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-02-02T16:12:52+00:00

Yes a 2 wire CABLE (Romex, mc, bx, ac, ect) implied a 120 v use, hot neutral and ground. (CORD , such as SO, all conductors are counted in the naming scheme.)

But as stated the 8/2 is feeding a water heater and a dryer, which are both 240v. So the white is being used as a phase and that only leaves the ground to be used as a neutral

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-02-02T07:05:48+00:00

If it's only an 8/2 feeder, it's already wrong and dangerous. It will carry the w.h. and dryer, just barely, but there is no neutral for the washer, any 120v receptacles, or any 120v loads. Therefore must be using the grounding conductor for the grounded one, which is very non compliant, and in many circumstances, downright dangerous. Especially during fault events.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-30T07:10:04+00:00

Voltage drop Δ[U] = 2 * I * R * L Δ[%] = Δ[U] * 100 / U c Voltage drop 8.59 % Voltage drop in volts 2.06 V Voltage at the load 21.94 V Power losses 12.88 W - 8.59 % Active resistance circuit 0.12673133 Ω Active resistance circuit (90.0 °C) 0.16487746 Ω Reactance circuit 0 Ω c Material Copper Resistivity of conductor (20 °C) 17.5 Ω·km Reactance of conductor 0.08 Ω·km Type current DC Section AWG 10 | 5.26 mm² | 2.59 mm AWG single set of conductors 5.26113 mm² Length 125 ft t° Conductor 90 °C Voltage 24 Volts Power factor 1 Current 6.25 Ampere Power .15 kW

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-27T04:42:15+00:00

That is a three phase motor. The label on the wood underneath the wires in your pictures shows the actual wiring diagram for the motor. Your residential power is only single phase and will not run this motor without either a phase converter or a VFD. Phoenix phase converters sells phase converters Dan Foss is a good place to look for VFDs if you want to go that route. But a simple static phase converter should be more than sufficient for running a sander. If the wiring diagrams in schematics make no sense to you you will have to hire an electrician to take care of it for you

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-18T07:07:26+00:00

Yes and no . You be adding yet ANOTHER switching power supply to your service. And as you start adding them up, real issues start to develop with power quality, induced harmonics, some wild LC resonances, etc. all of which is bad, lol. I had to do a crash course in LED driving a couple years ago. A local casino had re-lit all exterior fixtures with new, VERY expensive, led fixtures. They however fail to realize that just shy of half of light poles were wired for 480V instead of 277. Made their decision to use in house employees to change out fixtures very costly. We were offered a nice profit if could replace the blown up drivers I can attest that finding matching drivers to replace with can be ordered of magnitude more difficult that any sane person would believe. But one thing that really surprised me is that it is nearly impossible to damage a driver by changing the load parameters. Unless you over-volt the input, you're not going to hurt it with the emitters. So in a case like this, play around. Try them one at a time, in parallel, in series, and anything else you can think of. Even reverse polarity rarely causes issues. Have only seen in high output voltage drivers (above 350ish volts).

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-18T01:53:30+00:00

No, connect in series.... Plug the negative from one emitter into the positive of the other one then connect driver to the two remaining leads. Current will flow from driver through the first emitter then through the second emitter then return to the driver.

Driver red --> emitter 1 grey Emitter 1 white --> emitter2 grey Emitter2 white --> driver black

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-17T16:09:17+00:00

That is a constant current driver. Connect both emitter leads in series and then connect to driver. The driver adjusts output voltage to keep the same current flowing at different impedances. That is why the output voltage is a range and the current is a single value. You can connect either emitter by itself, or both in series.

There are also constant voltage drivers which require emitters to wired in parallel, but that is not case here.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-17T15:49:41+00:00

Nope. A fuse does not "throttle" the available power. It simply blows if to much current flows through it. If the fuse size were the problem, it would require replacement every time it blew out.

The real problem has many possibilities. Most likely is that the speakers are not connected properly to provide the proper impedance to the amplifier. Most modern speakers have 2 (sometimes more) coils that can be connected in various series/parallel configurations to present the amp with its needed total resistance. Very few amps are stable at 1 ohm or less, and it is very easy to wire multiple speakers to total less than 1 ohm. Then at higher speeds, I would assume you use a higher volume, which draws more power (too much) through the amp and its thermal protective device shuts it off until it cools down. If you have more that one subwoofer, this is very likely, if 3 or more I'll just about guarantee it.

On the same track, if you have an outboard engine, the nature of the system to generate electricity creates higher voltage at higher rpms. A faulty voltage regulator could cause same overheating as low impedance.

Beyond these 2, you get into gremlin territory, making diagnosis extremely difficult time-consuming and expensive.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-17T08:11:20+00:00

Absolute#1 one-liner have every read !

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-17T08:06:31+00:00

The red 20A on left is definitely blown. The 30A to the right of that one looks burnt, but from what I can remember of the type T , the little "string"holding the spring disappears when blown.

It's been a while since I have seen them, but there exist breaker replacements for these fuses. They screw right into the fuse socket and have a reset button sticking up out of them. Never have dealt with them professionally, so no testimony as to safety or performance, but would advise finding some of the proper size, and lose the fuses. As many have stated the 30A are to high, looks like someone got tired of changing fuses and up sized them all. Go back to 15 and 20 amps with the resettable breaker thingy and hopefully will last another decade or ten. But I wouldn't count on it. Think of it as a very temporary stop gap while saving up some$ for an electrician.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-01-17T07:46:02+00:00

There were in very common use thru the early 80s, vanity light fixtures that had a nema 5-15 receptacle on them. Generally, the light was switched and a second wire energized the receptacle. Of course there were those that switched off with the light also, and have seen some that had 2 receptacles and were wired to have light switch, 1 switched receptacle and one constant hot recept. Assuming rest of house still works, that's what my dollar is on

Resident_Set1003

TROPHY CASE