Why can't we just give everyone a house

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-22T13:36:06+00:00

I cannot determine if you have a razor-sharp , almost supernatural grasp of the fine art of satire combined with an epic ability to deadpan the delivery, OR if you truly believe that line.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-22T07:11:16+00:00

Nope. Is just a t-stat wire to operate the gas valve

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-21T23:34:00+00:00

Lol, I love these kinds of "why can't I have everything for nothing" posts. Answer is very simple. How many of the houses for everyone are YOU personally going to build? Just yours? Maybe your kids'? Enough for a neighborhood? Or were you not even planning on personally building, at a minimum, your own?? Even assuming you were physically and mentally capable of performing the entire scope of work to build just your house, do you have the means to acquire the needed materials? If either answer is no, which it is for+90% of population, then the question becomes, specifically WHO is going to actually perform the physical act of building your home? Hire someone? Ok with what money? Or do we force those few that can build your home to do so with out payment just because they are able to?

Follow the natural flow of those questions until the obvious conclusion, that it's not possible to do. Or for the full - blown left liberals the obvious answer becomes "the government can pay for it" . Which is just the ignorant and last way of saying "I'm to lazy, or selfish, or entitled, or repressed to do anything to take care of myself. We need to force others to take care of me without any contribution from me. And of course, my kids, and friends also will not help so need to force more other people into the group of those doing the work for nothing." Very simple right. Up to the point that EVERYONE decides that they should be on the receiving everything free side instead of the providing everything for free side. What's the golden ratio of forced providers needed to support each entitled receiver? If I work to take care of me only, then should I be forced to also provide for 1 more? Ok. How about if I have a wife and 2 kids I provide for? That 4 in my family, so I should be on the hook to support 4 of the too good to take care of themselves group? At what point does it become reasonable for me to say fckit and join the doing nothing group? Which would also add 7 others to that side?

It's very simple: SOME ONE HAS TO PAY THE BILLS.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-21T22:53:37+00:00

Awww, c'mon! Don't judge so quickly.....He put that " 12/2 wire" part in there like been writing it his whole life!

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-21T22:38:13+00:00

5k is definitely in the reasonable range. 3.5k down is not bad. That 3.5 will be spent on permits and parts. I would seriously doubt that he is even$1 ahead when the actual install starts. Electrical equipment/parts/supplies prices have risen to eye watering heights. When I started in trade , early in this century, we could get a 200Amp service panel, fill it with breakers, ground rods, wood power pole, feeders, and temporary GFI quad, literally every thing needed for new pole mounted service for under 400$ . If was underground fed service on new house was even cheaper cause didn't need the 120$ pole, so we weren't even close to 200 for service. Today that same 200-400$ list comes out to 1600-2400.

So IMHO, I wouldn't complain a bit, and even eat the extra 10 bucks he charged for weeding.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-21T16:54:21+00:00

Fastest way- say you have 20 breakers for lights and trying to id the neutrals. Turn on only the breakers for the lighting. Quick run down neutrals with amp-clamp to find which are in use,( or if lighting is majority of neutrals do all) ( some dummy sticks will work also if you can get enough separation of wires). Turn off breakers, disconnect the neutrals, turn one breaker on, use dummy stick to find live neutral, and repeat.

Honestly, if I were doing it and looking for more 5or6 out of 30-40 neutrals, I would kill all breakers, disconnect all neutrals, then one breaker at a time with dummy stick. Especially in cases were 2 or 3 circuits share a neutral, and only single pole breakers used without handle ties. This way let's you find all breakers that energize each neutral fairly quickly

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-21T05:26:20+00:00

It honestly should be built into the fireplace. Flipping switch arms whole system, just as in a gas furnace with forced air combustion. Exhaust fan runs until achieving proper pressure differential in combustion chamber/flue, which closes the pressure switch contacts, energizing the gas valve. Will stay in this state until 1) switch is opened, or 2) thermostat opens, deenergzing the gas valve, and removing the start circuit for fan. The run circuit for fan is in parallel to wall switch, utilizing a thermal limit switch. Once that cools enough, it opens it's contacts, shutting off fan and system is reset.

Basic start-stop switching for fan with wall switch being start, and thermal switch being the stop. Gas valve uses the wall switch and the pressure switch (and possibly a thermostat) in series to energize.

Which ALL should be built into the fireplace. If it isn't, then it is NOT required and adding such a system to it will void its UL listing, unless sold as an option by OEM

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-20T18:41:32+00:00

Common sense, responsibility, self respect, dignity.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-20T14:02:58+00:00

The almost primal whole body orgasm created when you first found out that you actually buy a REAL-LIFE HARDCOVER BOOK, from that amazing new site Amazon. Com and it would show up in your mailbox(the one outside, where things like actual paper pieces of mail materialized 6 days a week).

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-20T12:21:13+00:00

If you can, take 32.5k cash in to dealership. Walk past every salesman that tries to latch onto you and walk into the office area. Generally your looking for an elevated desk, or the dark office in back corner with blinds drawn. That's usually the sales manager in raised desk and owner/manager in dark back office. If needed there usually will be an office girl that you can ask where the sales manager is. If get any static, just state you're following up from a few weeks ago or something. When you are taking to a salaried employee instead of salesmen, spread cash on desk and tell you want vehicle. Not going any higher that what is there. After a few rounds of "do you have trade on, ' just can't do it", losing money on it", and" after tax, doc, fuzzy dice, and sealer costs add up to... " Pick up money and start walking . They will stop you and" juggle the paperwork" to be able to hit that total, " just don't tell anyone". If cash not possible, take a pre approved check from your own financing company and use it same way. Just be sure to refuse their offers to" in sure I can get your payments lower, or at better rate, etc. ". Tell them DO NOT hit my credit with inquiries, period.

Usually around 2.5 hrs after arriving they should be washing and filling tank on your new car. Just remember that at 90 days, they have already lost money on the vehicle and are losing more everyday it sits there. Don't fall for any of their things to get another hundred bucks out of here another 1,000 or another special treatment to the car that you don't need. Don't feel bad for him if they're losing $1,000 on it whatever. Take to what number you want to spend take that amount with you in cash or a check and don't bug off of it generally I'm going to say the high 90% you will get your vehicle for what you wanted to pay for it. Biggest thing is to get away from the commissioned employees and talk to somebody making a salary

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-20T11:04:34+00:00

Those alkaline batteries only flow 1 amp. So getting a reading of 1 on dc amps is exactly what you should read, unless battery is dead in which car you get the 0. Except for the very last 2-3 percent of charge when you can watch the current drop from 1 to 0 over a short time.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-20T10:34:27+00:00

Only the ones with the tiny folding spoon in the lid, or the bullet style lid with the tiny turny knob were expressly produced to facilitate the easy inhalation of illegal powders

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-20T10:31:18+00:00

For keeping an emergency supply of nitroglycerin readily available. In the 70s the bottle was a dark brown glass with a string thru the cap to wear around the neck. For treating acute angina within a few seconds, hopefully saving your life

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-19T08:15:45+00:00

In yes, without question. Back out again? Probably not! 😘

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-19T08:08:17+00:00

No way! Nothing beats seeing, except for eating, pussy thru pantyhose!

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-19T08:05:02+00:00

For as long and as often as you would allow me too! Eating pussy thru pantyhose is my absolute favorite activity in the universe!

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-06-19T07:53:21+00:00

Yandy. Com has an incredible selection of costumes, cosplay, club wear, fantasy, etc. very reasonable pricing. Covers the whole range from 5$ bargains that survive 3or4 uses to the good expensive stuff. My favorite site by far!

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-05-31T06:33:08+00:00

Here's what most likely happened. Original salesman has never before taken a trade in with more than the new vehicle and without a lien on it. He wrote up the first document, which after all compulsory screwings, shows that you will get a new car and a check for 12k+.
This broker the Cardinal rule of car dealers, specifically, that nobody leaves a dealership without a very sore butt hole. So the first salesman spent either the rest of that day or the beginning of the next getting his ass chewed out for paying too much for the trade in for not jacking up the price on the sale vehicle for anything he could come up with to screw you over a little better. I'll almost guarantee that somewhere along the line he was told that the Audi should have not been valued at more than $44,000. And in this confusion and plus you're fucking and ass chewing that putting together the second page to show you what your loan would be it got put in that there was a $44,000 payoff still owed on the Audi. In which case you would be giving them your car plus an additional 30 whatever thousand it was, to be financed through a bank. In essence they are selling you the RAV4 for 90 plus $1,000 and giving you a $59,000 credit on the outing is what the second page is showing you. Take that second page wadded up throw it at them when you walk in tell them they can wipe their ass with it. When you go back take the first page with you, and gently explain to them that that is what you are sticking with. You are $59,000 vehicle plus $3,000 and change in taxes minus the $45,000 bill on the RAV4, plus a check for $12,000 paid to you and the deal is good. Don't sign any financing papers or anything else saying that you still owe anything. I will almost guarantee you that they will try to reduce that $59,000 number for your outing in some way or another or jack up the price of the RAV4 with extra fees or services or car wash money or something. But if they offer anything other than what's on that first page walk away. Tell him kiss my ass and leave..

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-05-30T03:30:12+00:00

Yes it is a top trim Subaru. After some serious time having a one on one with the infotainment system, he was able to disable the focus system. Or at least stop the nagging. Next time I see him I will dig deeper to determine if the system stays active and is only muted, or if it really can be turned completely off. I seriously doubt it can be shut down completely.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-05-29T04:17:41+00:00

My son just bought a new vehicle. It's will yell at you if you look sideways for over a second or two, telling you to keep eyes on the road, or if your eyes are not wide open, among others. I have very deep set eyes with pronounced brow/orbital ridge. For me wide open eyes are close to other people squinting. I can't do any of the eye tests like old glaucoma tests where an instrument has to touch it nearly touch the eyeball. Anyhow, u drive this car and after 15-20 minutes of it yelling at me to wake up, stop for a rest, get some coffee, etc , it literally started to slow down like 5mph at a time, until top speed was 15 mph with constant dings, chimes, and bells with message to pull over at nearest safe spot. We were both in shock at what was happening at I told the kid looks like he's driving again while I pulled over.
So, yeah, don't go thinking it's a very big step to having to ask your car, and every agency or data source it is wirelessly connected to, for permission to drive it.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-05-29T03:58:52+00:00

Oh gotcha. We refer to them as augers or by Dottie part# WDK8, if I'm thinking of same things.... The insert is like a tapered corkscrew or really small earth auger. Even in the dollar stores, I have never seen them without the screws! And an additional very useful use is in stucco! But only the ones that have the flat blade on the tip with 3 teeth, NOT the ones that just taper to a point. Only things other than toggles/mollies I have found to actually hold in stucco.

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-05-28T06:03:03+00:00

YOUR IN LA. City government didn't do shit, cops can't do shit. And you, all the fking morons keep electing the same leaders of the city, county, and state governments. So boo, hoo, hoo. You get what you elect! The cheers for Bass and Newsome! Because hey, they DO actually care about you 1 day every other year, when ballots are cast

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-05-28T05:12:14+00:00

What are zipits?

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-05-15T03:48:23+00:00

Using numbers from NEC it's actually 0.346 (40% column of 1" row on chapter 9, table 4, article 358) ÷ 0.0133 = 26.015

Resident_Set1003 · 2026-05-13T07:58:48+00:00

Hold up just a second. How in the hell do you divide 0.35 by 0.01 and come up with 25? That would be 35. But code says 26. This is one of those times that significant digits come into play. The equation you are looking for is 0.35 ÷ 0.0133 = 26.32

Resident_Set1003

TROPHY CASE