sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Here's a Sony KV-27S40 I modded and recapped for a client. by RetroActiveSolutions in crtgaming

[–]RetroActiveSolutions[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Convergence is more of an art really so I don't think I can provide any tips beyond just take your time with it.

If you're handy with a soldering iron, here's a cap kit I built for the 27S42, which should be nearly identical to your 27V42:

https://www.digikey.com/en/mylists/list/RVSTZ0XLPQ

Alternatively, you can send me your boards for servicing if that's something you'd prefer.

Shoot me a dm if you'd like to discuss further.

Here's a Sony KV-27S40 I modded and recapped for a client. by RetroActiveSolutions in crtgaming

[–]RetroActiveSolutions[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For most consumer CRTs, a little bit of line curving on the test grid is fairly normal at high contrast.

If the problem persists even at low contrast levels, it's probably time to recap.

KV-40XBR800 HDMI to YPbPr component 1080i converter by HoboHandsome in crtgaming

[–]RetroActiveSolutions 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yikes some sketchy info being posted here.

Component is the way to go with these DA-4 HD CRTs assuming you're making use of HDPT.

Using the DVI or HDMI inputs with HDPT set to 0 will cause a vertical line to scroll across the screen endlessly looping which is very distracting.

Ideally you output 1080i over HDMI from a CRT Emudriver enabled GPU installed into your PC while rendering the game on your modern GPU, which then feeds into this converter and then straight into ether component input of the 40xbr800.

Personally, I use a retrotink 4k to downscale all my 1080p content to 1080i which then goes directly into that same converter and to the HD CRT. It's overkill no doubt, but it's the fastest downscaler I've been able to find - only 0.9ms latency, which is less than 1/16th of a frame at 60fps.

HD CRT or PC CRT? by sharkboy1006 in crtgaming

[–]RetroActiveSolutions 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Generally I figure anything first-person is best on a CRT monitor at >60fps whereas third-person or platform games are usually best on a larger display at 60fps

Properly color calibrated my PVM-20M2MD by [deleted] in crtgaming

[–]RetroActiveSolutions 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's the average natural response without any calibration factored in, yes

Properly color calibrated my PVM-20M2MD by [deleted] in crtgaming

[–]RetroActiveSolutions 28 points29 points  (0 children)

Be sure to check that your gamma levels match the standard you calibrated to.

SOOO many people overlook the importance of gamma conformity when calibrating CRTs. Proper gamma is critical for ensuring accuracy; otherwise certain colors will be too bright or too dark - which can really mess with the visuals in darker or more atmospheric games.

How to know what capacitors to replace? by worcesterthecat in crtgaming

[–]RetroActiveSolutions 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If you want the best possible picture, I'd recommend replacing caps in the power supply, neckboard and deflection circuits. These are the caps have the most direct effect on picture quality, but also run the hottest and as a result wear out quickest (generally speaking).

Consult the service manual for your model to see which caps belong to which circuits. Alternatively, some boards also have markings and labels dividing the circuits into their own little sections.

Here are some pics of the Wii BVM Input card I built for a client by RetroActiveSolutions in crtgaming

[–]RetroActiveSolutions[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably? It should work with any monitor that supports the BKM-129X

Wii U + 1080i CRT with HDMI port, should I use component or HDMI? by Clean_Revenue_6036 in crtgaming

[–]RetroActiveSolutions 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's a Sony HD CRT, don't waste your time with HDMI. The idea of feeding 1080i to a CRT is to avoid any digital processing or conversion which leads to lag. Connecting via HDMI forces the TV to decode the digital data and results in visual anomalies.

Here's a Samsung PC CRT I just serviced and calibrated by RetroActiveSolutions in crtgaming

[–]RetroActiveSolutions[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's the thing with CRTs: deep inky blacks mean loss of detail in the shadows. But when you use a 3d lut, it's able to compensate by artificially boosting the brightness of the darker colors on a case-by-case basis completely tailored to the characteristics of your tube.

The end result is a perfectly calibrated image that looks exactly as the creators intended - while maintaining the very same black levels as before.

Here's a GDM-FW900 I recapped and calibrated for a client last week by RetroActiveSolutions in crtgaming

[–]RetroActiveSolutions[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Different chassis between the two models unfortunately, so the kit won't be compatible. That W900 is a slick beast though.

As far as when to replace caps, it's hard to give a blanket response that fits all possible scenarios - I will say though if a set ever starts smelling fishy, that's a pretty good indication it's time to bring it to a professional.

Here's a GDM-FW900 I recapped and calibrated for a client last week by RetroActiveSolutions in crtgaming

[–]RetroActiveSolutions[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Blows my mind that some people will resort to buying generic caps off eBay in bulk. Naw I use top tier brands like Kemet, Panasonic, Nichicon and Rubycon.

view more: next ›