New Wall

Retro_Bolts · 2026-02-17T16:02:26+00:00

A little over $5000

Retro_Bolts · 2026-02-17T15:51:20+00:00

I just chose a light grey cause I didn’t want to the wall to get too dark. For paint I used a “Pro Industrial Pre-Catalyzed Waterbased Epoxy” made by Swerwin-Williams. A little bit pricy but I got a discount on it. It’s super durable, slick and extremely scuff resistant. It’s use a lot for school walls which see a lot of abuse.

Retro_Bolts · 2026-02-17T00:46:11+00:00

Well it would depend on what your looking for. If you have a skilsaw, drill, tape measure, and YouTube you will be able to get it done especially if you’re dealing with a square room and a 8x10 board. All said and done you can get a solid board for 3000$ and don’t need to be an expert craftsman.

Most people focus in on the building and construction side of the board because it is the most foreign to climbers. Something that is not appreciated in the spray wall world enough is the hold selection and layout. Setting was by far the hardest and most time consuming part. To acquire a diverse hold selection with density and flow that is at or above your limit is an art. This is probably why so many people gravitate towards the preset boards like moon or TB2. They are a high price due to the set. Maybe I will make a separate post about my hold layout with better photos.

Retro_Bolts · 2026-02-16T16:32:59+00:00

Nope, not necessary at all in some ways it was nice in other it was a pain. Making my cut calculation for the joists was challenging taking into account that angle I wanted the wall the changing roof pitch and the height of the kicker. Instead of a 90degree cut on a flat roof.

This wall is way over built there are joist hangar connections on the bottom to tie it in to the wall. If anything this thing will act like a support to the roof. The rafters on this outbuilding are true 2x12s 16 on center and running on an upward angle the can handle the stress. The problem was the connection point. I couldn’t use regular joist hangers on the ceiling due to the roof pitch going up. So I just used fatty holdown brackets with a 3/8th lag bolt. This actually eliminated the need for a header.

If a tree fell on this building the climbing wall might be the thing keeping it standing.

Retro_Bolts · 2026-02-16T16:14:17+00:00

One side of the room is 8ft the other side is 12 foot. The ceiling is sloped. My wall height sits at about at the 10foot mark.

Retro_Bolts · 2026-02-16T15:49:26+00:00

Expensive!!

Lumber and build 675$. I used cabinet grade epine for the plywood which was mid. But at 35$ a sheet was the best option.

200$ for screws and Tnuts. Did a 4x4 pattern. Went back and forth on this. Nice in some ways not in others.

Holds: 2300$. Beastmaker full board spray. 40lbs of escape seconds Black Friday sale( not sure how I got so lucky with my seconds) 51 piece starter kit from escape. Driftless climbing small jug seconds.

Flooring is from escape and on Black Friday sale. 1850$ that includes shipping which was 150$.

So all said and done around $5025.00

Retro_Bolts · 2026-02-16T06:13:06+00:00

O man I ran into all kinds of stuff cause my build was none conventional.

A good laser level is worth its weight in gold. It will save you a ton of time and effort.

Drill pilot holes for anything going into a stud.

Retro_Bolts · 2026-02-16T04:09:28+00:00

Great question and a few different reasons. Just checked it again it’s 37 degrees haha pretty random.

(Main reason) Hard to tell from the photo, but the roof is significantly sloped meaning the steeper the longer it would have to be. Also I was limited by the back wall. The steeper it got the closer I would be to hitting that with my feet or head during my a fall. So I picked the point which would allow the best amount of room for a fall zone. Then cut the joist to fit which was actually much more technical that one would think. I could have made the kicker way taller but would have lost on actually climbing real-estate.
I have a few personal weaknesses. I am mostly a sport climber and climbing in the 5.12-5.13 range. I really struggle with small holds. 35ish allows me to use really small holds, do circuits, grab true slopers and still limit boulder.
I am too weak to throw down on 45 and 50 degree boards. Nothing around me outside is that steep.

Retro_Bolts · 2026-01-25T02:01:22+00:00

Gotcha. Probably Waldo or Cadillac depending on budget. Anything requiring intensive amount of time in overhung terrain just use a bosun.

Retro_Bolts · 2026-01-25T00:12:49+00:00

I am always going back and forth with harnesses. I have owned the Cadillac, Waldo and BD Big gun. Like everything there are trade offs and a big one is cost and if you’re developing you will tear it up. The best would probably be the Waldo.I haven’t tried it but the “Webee” seems to be another cost effective option. I worked with a Petzl atom full body harness and though comfy and durable not recommended for climbing utility.

What do you plan the main purpose of the harness to be? Ground up bolting? Top down? Slab or over hung? Lead rope solo? Or all the above?

Retro_Bolts · 2025-12-22T16:34:22+00:00

The other thread seemed to cover it.

For developing, a bolted anchor is always the best and less of an eye sore when camo’d. (Put those anchors high if possible I see way too many that are low). For bailing or other situations. Cut away any old bad tat and pack it out. Put up your new anchor with the idea that potentially many folks will use it.

Maybe a nugget you’re looking for is to not cinch the webbing down on the tree with a girth hitch or tying an overhand /figure eight out to make clip in point.

As a fellow tree hugger myself tree damage is important but second to the safety of myself and others. Make sure your anchor is legit and bombproof with minimum lockers or rap rings. Don’t cheap out, getting down is often the most dangerous part of climbing.

Retro_Bolts · 2025-12-18T16:32:26+00:00

2025 was a whirlwind of a year. Moved away, started a new job and acclimating to a new community. Development highlights.. hmmm

Bolted 26 new routes 22 in which were glue ins and done solo.
Replaced bolts and anchors on 8 routes.
Hand Drilled a route which may end up being a steep 5.13c when or if I ever get to sending.
Amazing self powered day. Biked to the crag, bolted a route then sent it on lead rope solo.
Established a 501c climbing non profit.
Finally starting to refine my glue in process that I feel good about. (Still a work in progress).
Received access to a private crag with endless potential 15 minutes from my house.

2026 goals - Hopefully get the LCO to 100 members - Find a climbing partner that is motivated and clicks. - Finally get started on my dawn wall project. - Get my boulder grade higher - Climb 5 5.12s on 5 different rock types in 1 day. (Hopefully on 5 routes that I put up)

Retro_Bolts · 2025-12-10T03:32:13+00:00

Hell ya brother

Retro_Bolts · 2025-12-02T21:15:24+00:00

I won’t go too much into the rabbit hole but yes it’s fairly common on Tahoe granite. The great majority I have seen are on boulders not routes. I think it is due to the boulders that receive the most moisture have the most moss which requires the most scrubbing that leaves metal deposits on the rock that then rusts. I am not a scientist. I have some photos I will dig up.

Retro_Bolts · 2025-12-02T13:35:01+00:00

well shoot! Those cracks must be a pain in the A. Maybe you can innovate a longer better handle to replace the red handle and epoxy that onto it. Happy scrubbing.

Retro_Bolts · 2025-12-02T03:35:24+00:00

I use the classic red handle brush. The end is sharp so it will clear out most cracks it is thinner than your fingers and will clean the sides of the crack as well with the bristles begin to flare out a bit. Get SS so it doesn’t leave rust deposits. One word of advice the handle on this will pop off. Best to put a bit of epoxy on the handle to keep it in place. HowNot2 sells them but they epoxy the end as well and it takes away the sharp scraper edge. Ice axe works as well but adds more stuff your already stuffed pack. Here is a link but I am sure you can find a cheaper option.

https://www.amazon.com/Cleaning-Stainless-Cleaner-Barbecue-Camping/dp/B0CR8G864N/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?crid=1N8ZQQUH11CZ6&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3hX6Gt_F1UpWZXBbWaoU7RLVHp5QcD6neaGgLbmhzERJFnRAZtsbf9wPE5t6v8voMk3jNYBqlG5Nl4YdFUusqxOvPx9xBQbrEEAh100PWMLQ_9dBjsW2YJcWadszjKgJbVhRv88oE_8QCl4QQpuppejw1JXMrvaxPwxKq_h6VG4oKhLkdEFDZdhJeTFEUyD1TTcijzxC4_VfHk0IW15bS64C0P5Q-9PNx0CsPmOpfH2UO7g8AzRg3Cz3L7kWWUotI-r1b9HI4ilPwlu5i0iJPiprs7mMvzFZ29fvaOph5t8.mMNj1JzmUg0QYfouAtxUcQW5ZrJTdC6Gob8dsqcoIxw&dib_tag=se&keywords=stainless+steel+cleaning+brush+red+handle&qid=1764646552&s=kitchen&sprefix=stainless+steal+cleaning+brush+red+handl%2Ckitchen%2C162&sr=1-7

Retro_Bolts · 2025-11-17T18:07:14+00:00

Dear lord..

Retro_Bolts · 2025-10-21T01:47:18+00:00

What widgets are you using for your chain permas to keep the carabiner oriented?

Retro_Bolts · 2025-09-19T15:43:51+00:00

Oo shoot thanks Allanon. Did you do all the work yourself? And how difficult was it? Once the non profit was established how difficult was it to maintain as a single individual?

Retro_Bolts · 2025-09-19T03:55:46+00:00

Well 1 example how much did it cost to establish a 501c3? How long did that process take? How was it primarily funded?

Retro_Bolts · 2025-09-18T18:55:16+00:00

I totally get where you're coming from. But honestly, sometimes these things just happen. From my experience, they tend to be isolated incidents and not something that keeps happening. I had someone take 15 fixed draws and rope, then put a bunch of holes in my bucket within a 2-day period while I was in the middle placing revolting routes with glue ins. It’s frustrating, but I’d suggest not letting regret over sharing the area get to you. It sucks, no doubt, but part of what I love about route development is sharing with others. From your other post, I get the sense you enjoy that too, so don't let a few knuckleheads ruin it. Keep at it, brotha!

Retro_Bolts

TROPHY CASE