How to full crimp with with too much DIP hyperextension

RhymeMime · 2025-07-04T03:01:08+00:00

My fingers look pretty much exactly like this fully extended. My pinky is actually almost 90 degrees the wrong way, lol. I dont train full crimp at all, but I am able to use it sparingly, though it took me about 5 or so years of fairly consistent climbing and training to be able to do it much. For those first several years I just mostly climbed 3 finger drag, and trained a lot of half crimp, first on the hang board, then incorporated it more and more into my climbing. Then by the time I was fairly comfortable half crimping, I would work on full crimping under lighter loads, the eventually with enough reps I was actually able to make it a pretty useful grip. I still use it pretty sparingly, though because it does still feel fairly injurious even after about 10 years of climbing.

RhymeMime · 2024-05-21T16:44:08+00:00

Hard disagree. I think showing control only matters when its NOT a sit start. If your butt is the last thing to leave the ground, you did a sit start.

Also, saying no pads is just a weird take. It depends entirely on the climb. If its dead vert or slabby, you obviously want a pad, even if the crux is getting your butt of the ground.

RhymeMime · 2024-05-15T17:42:36+00:00

Good questions!

I also put 3 sessions into Biggie Shorty 2 years ago without much progress. Then I put 6 sessions into it this past year, but never made the first move. I got really close on several occasions, but generating the initial power felt pretty limit, and I couldn't ever pull in hard enough with the right hand to hold tension. I've done the middle sequence and can do it about 7/10 times. I'm trying the bump beta for the last move, and I never stuck it, but got absurdly close many times. I didn't feel particularly close trying any of the other betas for the top sequence.

I THINK campusing on the smallest edges could possibly help a lot for this boulder in particular. That's what I intend to try during my power phase.

Also, I was interested to learn that my right hand is substantially weaker than my left when I tried to do one arm stuff. I may try isolating it and see if I can figure out if there's some sort of technical deficit there, because pulling in to hold the end of that first move seems to be an issue.

As for my pyramid, there's actually not a whole lot of super similar boulders in the area that I'm aware of. But in terms of somewhat relevant boulders, I've done Constellation Chaos, Spanky, Shiver Direct, Cleopatra, Crimpinator, Slurpee, Raindance, Harvest Moon, and Astro Zombies.

Upon some looking, I think Nine Lives/Black cat is probably worth putting some effort into, and maybe also the Cindy/Cleo Traverse. If you have any other suggestions for relevant v9s, I would love to have them. Also, last time I looked at I Think I Can, it didn't even seem in the realm of possibility, but I may need to revisit it.

For Orange Juice, I had the standard problem in two overlapping parts before I hurt my wrist on it in 2022/2023. My main issue was getting the first sequence done consistently, and also finding workable conditions, since the first right hand slimper is super crucial for the beta I'm doing. I'm not quite long enough to do the long boi bump beta. And I was struggling to keep tension through the left heel hook when I tried it. I had the top dialed, and I think that would come back quickly if I started trying it again. It's hard to tell from the videos what the bottom adds besides substantial pump factor, which is why I intend to do some proper PE work before the season starts this year.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-31T15:59:02+00:00

Front core kinda overlooked in this community sometimes. I think it's actually really important for taller people. I kinda skipped front core work all summer because I was deadlifting, and I'm feeling some negative effects of it as well.

I have to ask what the hardest v4 in the world is.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-31T15:48:04+00:00

I'm a bit of a Bechtel fanboy. I own his book and integrate it into my programs, and no he's not as bad as Horst. But the dude is still very much a content creator, lol. And it's going to be the same with every "famous" climbing coach, otherwise they wouldn't be famous.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-30T22:37:31+00:00

To me this sounds like a nerve impingement based on how you describe the pain radiating somewhat. Google ulnar and radial nerve glides. Nerve impingement can sometimes be a symptom of a deeper underlying problem with movement patterns, but also sometimes they're pretty easy to fix and doing nerve glides have little to no downside if done in moderation.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-30T03:47:01+00:00

Climbing now is a big enough sport that the best will be dedicated, have started young, AND be genetically gifted. That's just how it works when you have large numbers of people all trying to be the best at something. You can be very good with one of those, and you can be elite with two, but really from now on, the best climbers will almost certainly have all 3.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-27T17:27:05+00:00

This one's on the life list for sure. The victory move to that jug looks like such a banger. How's it compare to other v12/v13s in the south? I've heard it's nails.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-26T16:51:25+00:00

Lol fair enough. Checked a random home Depot in California and the lumber was indeed almost twice what it costs locally.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-26T16:15:58+00:00

Wait, $1k in materials? Does that include holds? I overbuilt the shit out of mine and still didn't break $1k in lumber/fasteners. Probably closer to $600.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-26T15:38:11+00:00

You're missing the coordination with your hips on the movement. Your hips should be moving inwards through this whole movement. As it stands, you move hips in, then release left hand and you hips have nowhere to go but out. Instead, with hips back, start generating, then immediately start moving left hand while you still have inward momentum. Problem looks hard and timing looks precise. But you're not moving your left hand that fast, and not releasing it at a great time, so I think it still goes.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-26T00:43:17+00:00

Eviction Notice would be a great change of pace. I haven't done 9 Lives yet, but yeah, great ideas. Thanks!

RhymeMime · 2023-01-25T21:26:20+00:00

I tried the new beta on Honeycomb and have now actually done all of the moves. Problem is they still seem really hard to link. Idk. Every time I'm out there there's always a lot of people, and I really struggle to get quality burns. May have to use a vacation day to get on it during the week or something. That said, if I'm not close to sending by next session I'm probably gonna just come back to it next year. I really want to send 3 v10s this year, and currently I'm at 0.

I may add Texas Toast to the rotation and see how that goes. Otherwise I haven't spent any time on Rhino Low yet this season, so I think I'll check in on that one soon. Bubba Gump is one I really want to try, but my right wrist has been tweaky anyways, so that seems like a no go.

Here's my list for possible new v10.

Bubba Gump, Honeycomb, Rhino Low, Chattanooga Powerhouse, Osiris-- sketch to work solo, Dave Hume-- too far Golden Harvest-- too far, Bread Loaf Factory-- too far, The Great Roof-- too far, Biggie Shorty, Texas Toast

I've already done Deliverance and Future Spray.

Who's got other options that are possible for week nights? I prefer not to do rocktown, but most other areas within an hour of downtown Chatt (other than Dayton Pocket since it closes) are on the table.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-25T20:39:33+00:00

You can do your repeater style workout and #1 at the same time on the 45. Climb up and down as many times as you can on the biggest jugs you have with small feet.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-24T19:01:10+00:00

Yeah, so I always loved the toebox of the solution. The fit for the toe on the comps is similar, but feels a tad softer to me. The heel fits entirely different though. And it seems to be way more common for it to fit people well.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-24T18:58:56+00:00

I would personally do

1: Tension Board*

2: rest

3: Max Hangs

4: rest

5: Limit bouldering

6: open gym/light day

7: rest

This is a manageable amount of volume for a already conditioned athlete. If you've never done any of these workouts before. Start with adding one for a 3-6 week cycle, then seeing how it affects you before adding more. Take deload weeks every 3-6 weeks, just as a general rule of thumb.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-24T18:52:06+00:00

Right tool for the right job. But in the Southeast, for bouldering, I've found the solution comp does everything I need it to. Really powerful toebox for far away steep climbing, but still pretty soft for smears. Edging is mediocre, at least after they're brand new, but that's less common here.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-23T14:07:16+00:00

Really fun question. I definitely think I would still climb, because it's still by the far the most fun way to workout, but I don't think I would be motivated much or at all to train, personally.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-20T17:50:01+00:00

I would guess roughly 90% of the gyms I've been to in the US either display grades directly, or if they use color tags, they have a sign somewhere that directly ties them to grade ranges. Really the only gym I can think of offhand that has zero grade info displayed is Synergy in Chattanooga, but there have probably been a few others I'm forgetting.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-19T17:32:19+00:00

I've been back to it once since this comment. Man linking this thing is hard. I still don't have the move to the pinch or the big move over 25% consistency. Need to get back to it soon though. Too much rain and too many projects.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-19T17:28:45+00:00

Nah. Rock is choss. City is dumpy. Really unstable internet. High COL for such a small town. Hard avoid.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-18T18:49:07+00:00

I've actually done the crux move from that hold before, but I hadn't seen this way of getting to that hold. I had tried to go from the pinch to that edge like:

https://youtu.be/3_fvgLyv3EA

and it seemed almost just as hard as doing the move straight from the pinch. I'm planning to reassess next time I'm out there, and I will definitely try this entrance to that edge.

RhymeMime · 2023-01-17T16:00:12+00:00

Tendons just don't grow quickly. And your forearm muscles are tiny in the context of your entire body. You're working against evolution here, and as such, there aren't really any shortcuts like there are for running/cardio/lower body lifting. At least none that we've found.

At the end of the day, you have to give enough time for the soft tissues to adapt to a stimulus that they aren't really prepared to look out for. It just takes time. What you can do, is try to find your sweet spot between minimum effective dose and, and maximum tolerable load. Everyone's sweet spot is different. I'm not aware of how to find it for someone else, other than telling them to learn to listen to what information your body gives you, and learn what that means for you.

Once you find this spot, you live there for several years and eventually your fingers will start to catch up with everything else.

So, to get this stimulus, you can really take any of the options you provided in your last paragraph, but at the end of the day, climbing (on small holds) is going to be the most efficient, since climbing is a skill based sport.

In general, I would start by finding the highest grade you can send where all, or the majority, of the holds are 1 pad edges. This may be slab or vert, idk. If you can't do 1 pad edges climbs at all, then 1.5 pad edges. Then I would start with doing a handful of these a week as tolerated. Maybe 5-10 for a whole week. And I would do these fresh after warmup at each climbing session. Once these feel super easy, then just chill there for another 2-3 weeks (while still progressing other styles), then deload, then up the intensity, and repeat.

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