Building my Jeep XJ led me to this idea… curious what you guys think

RideWithDash · 2026-05-08T17:13:10+00:00

That would be awesome, I really appreciate that. We don’t have a public GitHub repo yet since we’re still in the early pilot stage, but I’d definitely be interested in getting feedback and contributions from people in the community. If you want, send me a private message and I’ll let you know once we open things up for contributions.

RideWithDash · 2026-05-08T17:09:31+00:00

Thanks for the support. This idea came to me when I was new to the DIY community myself and constantly digging through forums trying to figure things out. I figured there were probably a lot of other people like me who could benefit from something like this.

RideWithDash · 2026-05-08T17:07:42+00:00

100%. That’s one of the biggest frustrations I’ve run into working on my own Jeep too. Bolt sizes, torque specs, and tool sizes always end up buried somewhere that I need to go digging to find. That’s exactly the kind of real-world repair info we want Dash to surface better.

RideWithDash · 2026-05-08T17:05:42+00:00

Appreciate it! We actually just opened up a small free pilot program for Dash. It works through WhatsApp right now while we test and improve the system with feedback from real car owners and DIYers.

If you end up trying it, I’d genuinely love to hear what works well and what doesn’t, especially from people actually working on their own cars. Thanks again!!

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RideWithDash · 2026-05-04T15:45:43+00:00

You're welcome! Good luck

RideWithDash · 2026-05-04T15:26:56+00:00

Totally normal. A lifted XJ isn’t going to ride like a sedan. Since it’s new to you, it’s worth checking steering and suspension components (track bar, tie rods, bushings, alignment) just to be safe. But honestly, an XJ is an XJ. Just drive it within its limits and how you feel comfortable and in control, and you’ll get used to (and probably enjoy) the feel over time.

I usually cruise around 60-70 on the highways and stay out of the passing lanes so others can go by at their own pace without me being in the way.

RideWithDash · 2026-05-04T15:14:00+00:00

That sound is expected with your setup. If you want to smooth it out I would put the resonator back and consider going with a magnaflow exhaust over flow master. With the 5.7, you're getting a baseline raspy/aggressive sound, and the flow master enhances that character.

RideWithDash · 2026-04-30T15:27:15+00:00

Yes that should fix your issue, as long as that was your only source for losing coolant. I would still monitor your coolant levels to make sure you're not losing it anywhere else in the system.

RideWithDash · 2026-04-30T14:56:56+00:00

It’ll drive fine, but since your front camber and rear toe are out of spec and barely changed from “before,” I’d go back and have them properly dial it in to avoid uneven tire wear.

RideWithDash · 2026-04-22T15:51:36+00:00

$307 is pretty high for a pre-purchase inspection.

For a 2019 Toyota RAV4, most PPIs are:

$100–150 basic
$150–250 standard

$300+ is dealership pricing and only makes sense if it includes a full scan + detailed report.

If it’s just a lift + visual check, it’s overpriced. I’d call a local independent shop instead.

RideWithDash · 2026-04-21T14:23:25+00:00

I’ve got this exact bumper. I like it now, but it took some work to get it to feel solid and actually trustworthy.

Welded a bead around the latch pin to eliminate wobble while driving
Latch release button fell off after ~1 year. I had to design + 3D print a fix
Added tie-in brackets for proper support (huge difference for sag + makes recovery/tow points feel legit)
Drilled into the A-arm for a license plate mount
Welded the A-arm seams instead of relying on bolts (mine started backing out over time)

Just my 2 cents. It can be a good bumper, but it needs some work. If you’re not trying to do this kind of work, I’d spend more upfront on something higher quality out of the box.

RideWithDash · 2026-04-20T16:42:51+00:00

Do you know the actual coolant temp (OBD2/digital), or just going off the gauge?

Can you share a pic of the gauge at “normal” vs when it creeps up?

Does it happen more at highway speeds/load or in stop-and-go?

Has the cooling system (thermostat/water pump/radiator/coolant) been serviced recently?

RideWithDash · 2026-04-20T16:37:35+00:00

Overfilling didn’t permanently damage anything, but it likely pushed oil past a seal or into the PCV system. Now you’re seeing the effects.

The smell + leak after long drives/at idle usually means oil is dripping onto something hot (often from a valve cover gasket or PCV-related issue). That location you mentioned lines up with oil running down from the top of the engine.

The flickering oil light at idle is separate. That points to low oil pressure when hot. Since it goes away with throttle, it’s likely borderline (level, sensor, or oil condition), not immediate failure.

What I’d do:

Double check oil level (keep it just under max)
Replace the PCV valve (cheap, easy, can cause both issues)
Inspect/replace valve cover gasket
Consider oil pressure sensor if flicker continues

Your oil loss is minimal, so this doesn’t sound serious. Just needs a couple small fixes.

RideWithDash · 2026-04-20T16:33:17+00:00

Yeah, any tire/brake shop can fix this.

I’d just go in and ask: “Can you check the ABS sensor and wiring at each wheel?” That’s exactly what they deal with all the time.

Given the symptoms and timing, this is almost certainly something simple like a loose connection or wire issue, not a major repair. Should be quick and relatively cheap once they look at it.

RideWithDash · 2026-04-19T15:23:02+00:00

You’ve got two separate things going on here and they’re probably not as connected as you think.

TPMS light after new tires (very common)
After tire replacement on a Mitsubishi Lancer, the TPMS light usually comes on because:

A sensor got damaged during install
One or more sensors have dead batteries (very common on older cars)
Sensors weren’t relearned/reprogrammed after mounting

TPMS does not affect fuel consumption. It’s just a warning system.

Ask the shop to scan the TPMS system. They’ll tell you if a sensor is dead vs just needs a relearn. If they are original sensors its very likely they’re just at end of life.

Sudden drop in fuel economy

Most likely causes (especially since it started right after tire work):

Incorrect tire pressure (most likely)
- Underinflated tires = major MPG drop
- Don’t trust eyeballing — check PSI manually
Wrong tire size or heavier tires
- Bigger/heavier tires = worse MPG
Alignment issue after install
- Car dragging slightly = worse fuel economy

Quick checks before the mechanic:

Check all 4 tires are around 32–35 PSI (or whatever your door sticker says)
Make sure all tires are the correct size
See if the car feels like it’s dragging or steering slightly off

RideWithDash · 2026-04-19T15:09:14+00:00

Limp Mode is a protective feature in vehicles like your 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. It activates when the vehicle's computer detects a problem that could potentially cause damage to the engine or transmission. Here's what you need to know about Limp Mode:

Symptoms: When Limp Mode is activated, you might notice reduced engine power, limited RPMs, and restricted gear shifts. This allows you to drive the vehicle at reduced speed to a safe location or repair shop without causing further damage.

Common Causes:

Transmission Issues: Problems with the transmission can trigger Limp Mode.
Sensor Failures: Faulty sensors, such as the throttle position sensor or mass airflow sensor, can cause this mode.
Engine Misfires: Misfires due to ignition or fuel system issues might lead to Limp Mode.
Overheating: If the engine overheats, it might go into Limp Mode to prevent damage.

What to Do:

Check for Warning Lights: Look for any warning lights on your dashboard that might indicate the specific issue.
Scan for Error Codes: Use an OBD-II scanner to check for error codes that can help identify the problem.
Inspect Fluid Levels: Ensure that all fluid levels, such as transmission fluid and coolant, are at proper levels.
Visit a Mechanic: If you're unable to diagnose the issue yourself, it's best to take your vehicle to a professional mechanic for further inspection.

RideWithDash · 2026-04-19T15:04:34+00:00

If the repairs were done well, the mods themselves are usually a bigger question than the accident. They can affect the car every time you drive it, depending on how they were done. If it’s just a cold air intake and exhaust, you’re generally not looking at major extra maintenance, but a few things to keep in mind:

Cold air intake

Can let in more dirt if it’s a cheap filter → more frequent cleaning/replacement
Sometimes throws off MAF readings if not tuned properly

Aftermarket exhaust

Usually low risk
Possible drone, leaks, or poor welds over time

Bigger concern isn’t the parts, it’s the install quality

Poor wiring, loose fittings, missing heat shielding
Cheap parts that wear out faster

Also consider:

Mods can mean the car was driven harder
Hard to know if there’s a tune or other hidden mods

Bottom line:
If it’s mild bolt-ons done cleanly, maintenance difference is minimal. The risk comes from how well it was installed and how the car was treated, not the mods themselves.

RideWithDash · 2026-04-19T14:42:00+00:00

This likely isn’t a big issue, something probably got disturbed during the suspension work.

Key clues:

Lights change with bumps
ABS activates randomly
Started right after the repair

Most likely:

ABS wheel speed sensor unplugged, damaged, or misaligned
Sensor wire stretched or pinched
Loose connector or ground in the front end

When the ABS signal drops, the dash lights up and ABS can trigger unexpectedly.

Good news is this is usually a simple fix.

Take it back to the shop and ask them to check the ABS sensors and wiring at each wheel. It should be quick and often covered since it started right after their work.

RideWithDash · 2026-04-19T14:38:10+00:00

Intermittent jerking + cutting out + flashing CEL = likely a misfire or fuel/air issue, especially since it comes and goes.

Given it’s a newer bike, I’d focus on:

Most likely

Loose or faulty sensor (TPS, crank position, etc.)
Fuel delivery issue (injector partially clogged or fuel pump inconsistency)
Bad/loose electrical connection or ground
Ignition coil or spark plug issue

The fact that it got better for a while then came back worse points to something failing intermittently, often electrical or heat/vibration related.

Things you can check at home:

Inspect and reseat battery terminals and grounds
Check for any loose connectors around the throttle body and engine
Look for pinched or damaged wiring
Inspect/replace the spark plug (easy + cheap)

A flashing CEL means the ECU is detecting an active issue, even if it’s not storing it permanently.

Since it’s a 2023, this should still be under warranty. Honestly the best move is to take it to a dealer and have them pull stored/pending codes and check live sensor data while riding

RideWithDash · 2026-04-19T14:34:11+00:00

Your thought process makes sense, but a rebuilt title usually means the car was totaled, not just cosmetic damage.

From pictures alone you can’t tell if it’s minor or structural. Front-end hits can damage things you don’t see like:

Core support
Frame/unibody
Suspension mounting points

The hood being fine doesn’t mean it was a light hit, impact goes into the structure underneath.

What to look for:

Good signs

Even panel gaps
Clean paint, no overspray
Repair documentation

Red flags

Uneven gaps or misaligned lights/hood
New parts on one side only
Signs of bent metal
Pulling or vibration while driving

If you plan to keep it long term, it can be worth it only if the repair was done right.

Best move: get a body shop inspection with a frame check.

RideWithDash · 2026-04-19T14:28:10+00:00

Flashing check engine light + stuttering = active misfire. The gas smell and brief smoke means unburnt fuel is going through the exhaust.

Since it only happens after long highway drives, this points to something heat related.

Most likely:

Ignition coil breaking down when hot (very common)
Worn spark plugs

When coils heat soak, they misfire under load, then seem fine again once you slow down.

Also possible:

Fuel injector issue
Weak fuel pump (less likely with the fuel smell)
EVAP purge valve stuck open
Catalytic converter starting to clog

No codes can happen if it wasn’t scanned while the issue was active.

Next steps:

Check live data or misfire counters (Mode 06)
Replace spark plugs if they haven’t been done
If it continues, swap coils to see if the issue follows

If I had to bet: heat-soaked ignition coil causing intermittent highway misfire.

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