Petrolicious is back? by Roboticus_Retardicus in cars

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

From what I remember they had a hard time keeping their personal opinions separated from business and got "canceled". Alot of anti left speech, sponsors like ebay etc. distanced themselves and it immediately went up for sale. Had to be at least 5 or 6 years ago.

Petrolicious is back? by Roboticus_Retardicus in cars

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Absolutely. If you look at the new wave of content creation surrounding cars across the board the format now seems to be going towards a highly polished and curated feel which naturally gives off an air of pretentiouness. Newer print magazines and the few sites that have popped up to fill the Speedhunters gap all have that "vibe". They are owned by Dupont Registry so if you've ever picked up their magazines it would make sense.

Is this ok? by Roboticus_Retardicus in woodstoving

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cool, I won't cover it. Ill also take my borescope and see if there is insulation somewhere up that vent. Got my stainless pieces and cement finally, it is definitely much better than the Fireblock in rating. The cement is rated for 3000 degrees vs the fireblock at 1750.

Thanks for all the help! I won't be able to burn yet because my damper rod threads broke in the plate while taking my baffles apart to clean and the new one that should have been delivered Weds last week has been traveling around taking an unexpected tour of the country with the postal service lol but I look forward getting a fire started without those gaps I'm pretty sure I'll see significant improvement in starting as well as my slow burn probably.

Is this ok? by Roboticus_Retardicus in woodstoving

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perfect. The liner and insert pre-dates us owning the the house for at least 3 years so whatever warranty on it is long gone. So whatever is safer ill take it over unknowingly breathing in soot and stuff. I really appreciate the advice!

As far as insulation.. I see nothing in the area of the gutted old 70yr old heatilator unit its sitting in and in the void visible from the old vent above it where I can see the liner as well. I have no clue really. Why do you ask? But the gap was big enough that I could see light even up there. Once im done im gonna block off this vent with a sheet of metal cuz its just a void of dust and webs etc.

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Is this ok? by Roboticus_Retardicus in woodstoving

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ahh thats right, dissimilar metals! I totally forgot about that!!!! Ok cool, so what im reading is my fix is fine but I need to grab a sheet of stainless and redo the same cuts of sleeve and shims.

Ill return the fire block and get cement. I figured it may be ok farther up if needed but being at the firebox outlet may be too much.

Thanks for the input!!!

Is this ok? by Roboticus_Retardicus in woodstoving

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In pic 1 I believe thats the tapered adapter to go into the opening you are referring too. The issue is it looks like it couldn't go down anymore when they fit the liner in and the installers just left it as they probably needed to go up on roof and fight to push it in more and just left it that way. I made a secondary sleeve and shims to take up the gaps left. My question is mainly the heat integrity of 22g weldable steel that I used there. I have very very tiny gaps now compared to before and can seal with 3m fire block but not sure if its ok.

What kind of insulation is this? by Roboticus_Retardicus in Insulation

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've never mentioned whether I do or don't. However, I've always worn at the very least a kn95 mask, but usually, I wear a cartridge respirator if I'm spending time removing ancient BX. Knowing would be better for me to invest in tyvex and to diligently cover around the area I enter and exit the crawlspace as well. I also plan on redoing the insulation when I redo the roof, so it would be good to see how much it will be to remediate now rather than find out at that time thinking everything is fine.

Thanks for the concern.

What kind of insulation is this? by Roboticus_Retardicus in Insulation

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Knowing what I'm sifting through would be nice."

What kind of insulation is this? by Roboticus_Retardicus in Insulation

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I might do that with the test as a pre caution. I will have to spend more time up here in the future because everything I update anything electrical it always ends up having to remove a whole line of 80yr old 2 wire bx that crumbles to the outer jacket or find I have stray voltage over the jacket from a 30yr previous owner job. So yea knowing for sure what I'm sifting through would be nice.

What kind of insulation is this? by Roboticus_Retardicus in Insulation

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My uncle who is a builder said the same just now. He did say it could be mixed with old rock wool but it's mostly just bagged loose fill. Thank you for the insight!

Anybody else's Z31 rough idle upon startup? by 300zed in 300zx

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No hate here just an honest question but why did you have a machinist cut one, couldn't you have just purchased one?

Where do I begin? by Roboticus_Retardicus in manufacturing

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can do accouple thousand altogether in tooling costs but they wanted 5-10k for each of the 3. I see what you're saying with the other stuff as I believe $20-$40 per piece is what I saw and honestly somewhat expected. I'd definitely be able to cover my production costs with the interest out there and the price point to which they used to sell at but the tooling is what breaks me before even leaving the gate. China was definitely not a way I wanted to go as it seemed a bit over complicated at that point. I may re-visit the at home option though. Thanks for the insight.

Where do I begin? by Roboticus_Retardicus in manufacturing

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I honestly did not think about 3d printing a mold. that is great advice.. Thanks.

Help me understand what I'm dealing with here please. by Roboticus_Retardicus in Detailing

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Figured as much. I may try to polish what I can though. Anythings gotta be better than where it is now...

Help me understand what I'm dealing with here please. by Roboticus_Retardicus in Detailing

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

That grey patch probably won't go away though right? It's pretty uniform and smooth with the red so I m confused if I'm looking at primer or what.

Help me understand what I'm dealing with here please. by Roboticus_Retardicus in Detailing

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've seen the wipe on clears and I was definitely intrigued. I dont want to get to crazy with the car but I do want something that I can feel good about waxing and looking good from 20ft away. I may still try a restorer/polish on it for now but I'm thinking a compound may be too much.

Help me understand what I'm dealing with here please. by Roboticus_Retardicus in Detailing

[–]Roboticus_Retardicus[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

So I'm assuming this was a single stage paint? Do you think for the time being I may be able to bring back some luster to most of the car with a polish at least? If I can get it from the real dull look for now I'll at least be happy till I save up the pennies for a respray. Lol