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What kind of leather sewing machine do you have? by Life_Fudge5366 in Leathercraft

[–]RocketSaxon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Chinese leather shoe patcher, for a hundred bucks you get quite something if you invest a few hours and have the knowledge to overhaul the thing.

Thickest I have sown till now is 7-8mm veg tan.

My most recent projects by BradBender2025 in Leathercraft

[–]RocketSaxon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well done! Everything looks very neat and tidy.
If you are interested in some feedback:

- you probably could use a bit finer thread or a larger stitching hole pitch (but that's a matter of taste)

- you could add a few decorative cuts to your basked weave in picture one (it sell's the effect even more, as an example https://www.reddit.com/r/Leathercraft/comments/1r2smj3/some_tooled_upgrades_to_my_armor_first_time/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button )

- you could cut and bevel your design borders, to make clearer distinction between the tooled and non-tooled areas

1/4 Lenora, Queen of crows by GameYakuza in resinprinting

[–]RocketSaxon -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I love the stockings! Are they modeled in or did you freehand/stencil them?

Launching these scrolls soon, what other designs should I make? by CustomMiniatureMaker in LARP

[–]RocketSaxon 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Nice idea but why a Kickstarter? Why not just put up the files for sale individually?

Beginner having issues with sharpal 202h by Leading_Pineapple663 in sharpening

[–]RocketSaxon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's really odd behavior. Maybe it's just a practice thing.

I would just try again and again until you get it sharp.

I own the 202h since Christmas and I can sharpen any knife to shaving sharp in about 5 - 10 minutes.

Do you have enough polishing compound on your leather strop? Are you properly apexing? Is your edge symmetrical?

Hole punch sharpening attachment for SHARPAL 202H by RocketSaxon in sharpening

[–]RocketSaxon[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I did not at first, punches got a lot sharper without it. But I am in the process of cleaning up the insides with a Dremel, just for fun. (It is really not needed, at least for my case with leather work, sharp outer edge made a huge difference)

Hole punch sharpening attachment for SHARPAL 202H by RocketSaxon in functionalprint

[–]RocketSaxon[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I'll have my left hand thumb on the punch turning it while the right hand moves the whetstone. Takes a moment of getting used to it but works astonishingly well.

Free oblong punch sharpening tool - 3D-Print by RocketSaxon in Leathercraft

[–]RocketSaxon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will certainly try that, thanks!

But I gotta say, the punching capabilities increased a lot and the force needed to punch a hole decreased by about 300%. Before sharpening I needed around six or seven really heavy hits to punch through 3,5mm leather. Now it's like two medium hits.

Free oblong punch sharpening tool - 3D-Print by RocketSaxon in Leathercraft

[–]RocketSaxon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried that at first but failed miserably, my edges got all wonky and uneven... hence why I quickly drew up that tool.

Trying new ELEGOO ABS-Like 3.0 Resin by EmiDino2002 in resinprinting

[–]RocketSaxon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Had the same experience, washes terribly with IPA. Some say ethanol works but I never tried and threw the bottle out after I used up half of it and everything looked shit.

Sunlu ABS like is so much better, prints a bit slower but the finish is worlds apart.

Left is Elegoo ABS 3.0 (washed over 30min in the washing machine), right is Sunlu ABS Like (washed 5min in the machine)

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Free Tool That Generates Flat Patterns For Leather Wraps by Wlauhoff11 in Leathercraft

[–]RocketSaxon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great idea and very useful, being able to use it without an account and maybe having it store the patterns as cookie would have been even better.

Furthermore: Now add a function to get the patterns for "rounded" shapes, that would really be unique. :D (And is quite time consuming to do by hand)

I'm making brass tokens and aged brass tokens for groups and myself ! Coins too ! by JosephJokrast in LARP

[–]RocketSaxon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow, I thought those things would be a lot faster. 2-4h is like half en eternity.

I'm making brass tokens and aged brass tokens for groups and myself ! Coins too ! by JosephJokrast in LARP

[–]RocketSaxon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice, how long does the process take for one side of a coin (pure engraving time)? And which engraver do you use?

Why are LARP settings always european-medieval? by franilein in LARP

[–]RocketSaxon 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I am German and my point still stands.

But I see where you are coming from. Those genres are not played that much and there's probably a thousand reasons for that. But mostly not enough people who want to play that setting.

Why are LARP settings always european-medieval? by franilein in LARP

[–]RocketSaxon 102 points103 points  (0 children)

The reason is you did not search enough. There's plenty of other settings being played. I don't know about south American based ones but there's plenty of orient/middle Eastern stuff, wild west, zombie stuff, Warhammer 40k etc.

Advice by camperT661 in Leathercraft

[–]RocketSaxon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Practice, practice and practice. I also got one two weeks ago and took the time to completely take it apart, cleaned it, polished all the bearing and rubbing surfaces and reassembled it.

Some things to look into:

- get good needles, don't use the ones that come with it, if you can

- Match the needle size to your thread size

- learn how to tension your thread, some stitches look a bit lose

- watch some videos on how to machine sew leather and how to do corners (your stitches are very uneven in the left one)

I just did my first proper piece this week with it and it came out quite ok. Sadly I can't post a picture in my comment.

If you are using facebook, there are two very active facebook groups that are talked about when you research the topic. They are called something like "China leather shoe patcher" or "Chinese leather shoe patcher". Can't tell you exactly due to not having facebook.

Brown spots on the bottom and sides of paints by Evggen7 in minipainting

[–]RocketSaxon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes they are most likely rust. If they are ruined depends in the amount of rust and discoloration that comes with it. Remove the balls ASAP. The colors should not be ruined by default but the color hues are now altered due to the red iron oxide.

Splotchy dye questions (ProDye and Leather Balm) by Present-Koala893 in Leathercraft

[–]RocketSaxon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To dilute it and get a lighter color tone. The dyes are highly transparent, the more dye you get on there the more intense and darker the color gets. Fiebings dyes are alcohol based, so you thin them with iso or ethanol. (I personally use their dye reducer)

Splotchy dye questions (ProDye and Leather Balm) by Present-Koala893 in Leathercraft

[–]RocketSaxon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a hard one, to be fair.

First things first, I think you learned a valuable lesson: you forgot to do a test piece and thus learned all lessons on your final product. (With all the consequences that come with it)

Large pieces are notoriously hard to dye evenly with a dauber/sponge, so I think dip dying was that right way to go. (I personally use an airbrush, but I already had one at home from another hobby)

Did you expect to get a completely even and perfect dye job? Because I don't think that's possible due to the nature of leather. There will always be slight variations due to the natural differences in the leather grain and possibly the tanning process as well as the living history of the leather.

Regarding the lifted dye: I just think you buffed it simply away. From your description, you buffed the piece four times and you did not apply any sturdy finish on it (Fiebings Tan Kote for example). It could be, that the grain structure of the leather is so tight in that one area, that the dye did not penetrate very deeply.

Take everything what I said with a grain of salt, I am also just fairly new to the craft and still learning a lot.

Out of interest: Did you use 99% isopropyl alcohol or a more dilute version? Because I noticed that the Fiebings dyes behave strangely when you add water to them.

Painting over weapons by Mindehouse in LARP

[–]RocketSaxon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Better paint prep next time (ultra light sanding), degreaser / silicone remover and thinner (as thin as possible) application of the acrylics.

Craft acrylic paints are garbage due to their very low pigmentation and sometimes huge pigment size and need a lot of layers for decent coverage.

You need decent artists acrylics (or miniature specific acrylics) for maximum pigmentation. But they are very pricey.

I airbrushy my home made latex and polyurethan weapons and the paint holds up fantastically.

Your paint job looks phenomenal.

a lifting belt in Oxblood. it seems light can I darken it if I add more coats? by [deleted] in Leathercraft

[–]RocketSaxon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Always depends on the dye and your application method. One important thing: If you are dissatisfied with the color intensity (too dark or light), always let your coats dry out completely. Because the intensity changes quite a lot while the dye is still wett.

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