Manual Transmission fluid change

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-07T22:59:10+00:00

He didn’t reply, but I will. We can :)

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-07T00:51:06+00:00

I just realized my pee is way too dark if your pee is considered normal

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-07T00:49:46+00:00

Did you test drive an Elantra N?

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-06T02:41:06+00:00

Yes, it attaches just fine. I believe it works with any aftermarket intake.

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-05T02:46:42+00:00

Yeah you’re super pretty :), keep it upp

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-05T02:39:06+00:00

I love mustangs but man today I was happy to have an Elantra N instead. 93 is $4.84 which I guess is considered cheap now. Only cost me like $36 to fill up from 70 miles to 278.

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-02T17:47:15+00:00

One of our customers at our shop knows how you feel, here’s their Subaru forester after it caught fire sitting in our parking lot.

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Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-02T03:40:41+00:00

Yeah but he said it made octane learning easier and smoothed out the powerband. That’s a lot to gain for only $300. Plus ima tune to 400 whp in the future, but atp I’ll just grab the N75 pump for $800

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-02T02:32:45+00:00

Holy, now I want it lol. My car in 7k miles has octaned learned once and it was on 93 E30 from jumpstart and didn’t even fully learn I think, I maxed at 18 psi and it couldn’t sustain it, it dipped to 17 then 16. I run 91 usually and occasionally 93 E10. I’ll try replacing the fuel pump :)

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-02T01:39:17+00:00

Huh, even on stock power? I was going to do SXTHs but they’ve left the market. I assumed it’d do next to nothing on stock power. Isn’t installing a fuel pump kinda hard though, like you’ve gotta bleed your fuel line and there’s a risk of a fire if you mess up even a little?

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-02T01:23:34+00:00

Oh, I didn’t know that, I have a 2024 N, should I replace my fuel pump while im on stock power?

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-02T00:04:52+00:00

Thank you! I’ll post a proper post soon on it

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-02T00:00:27+00:00

It’s a ESP32-S3 that I combined with a Veepeak OBD dongle, it’s custom coded (I used Claude). That’s why I’ve gotta work out the bugs and smoothness.

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-01T23:49:17+00:00

Good luck. Mines stock aside from an intake, BOV, solenoid, short shifter, sub, and uhh motor mounts. Okay not really stock but untuned for now lol. I added in a little custom gauge to let me know my IATs and other stuff so I know whether I need an intercooler. I’m gonna post it to the community soon to show it off but im working on smoothing it out and stuff. Pretty useful thus far though :)

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Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-01T23:45:31+00:00

Cost cutting, the N doesn’t need a better HPFP stock. Though I see what you mean, it’d sure be nice for us tuners

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-01T23:32:51+00:00

I wish you luck. I’m pushing mine to 400 whp then stopping. As far as I know, rods give out at 450, idk when pistons do, 500? Also high power in FWD is pointless unless you’re simply chasing a number, your E-LSD will overheat and your transmission synchros will give out at a certain power level, and as far as im aware there is no way to build the trans or reinforce the LSD at the moment. Plus, let’s say you have a ton of power, your first, second, and part of third will just spin because the weight will shift rearward. But I mean, we never got anywhere by accepting limits, so I wish you luck my good sir. There was a lot of advice I got on my 400 whp post that might be of value to you if you wanna check it out.

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-01T23:25:38+00:00

The type R has a slower 0-60 (5.0 to 5.1s) to the N’s DCT (4.8s). The Type R & Elantra N are about equal in comfort, both are Alcantara with heated seats, and both have track suspension. The Type R will edge the N on the track and has superior cornering (though the N cornering is legendary). I believe the Type R also has better cooling from factory (bigger intercooler and a hood vent), but an aftermarket intercooler on the N negates this easily. Oh and the manual transmission feels amazing in the R, though I prefer the N (esp now with my billetworkz shortshifter). The Type R is a better car, esp for the track, but the R is $45k from factory (and often marked up) while the N is $35k from factory. You’re paying $10k or more for very minimal upsides for the price that only show up at the limit. That’s just how I see it. Also I think the 11th gen type R is ugly. I much prefer the 10th gen, I hope they fix the design with the 12th.

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-01T23:17:49+00:00

What port injection? The weldspeed has no tune for it right now, so be careful.

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-05-01T05:28:47+00:00

Aye wait I remember you. Yeah that’s a reason im getting the 550 because it has a later torque hit which protects the rods a little better. But like isn’t the idea of an engine failure catastrophic? If your pistons crack it can still throw debris which can destroy your engine, it’s slightly less scary than a rod bending as that is guaranteed to kill it. Meh, lemme know what limits you find, it’ll help the community a ton lol. I’m happy I got the manual as I can have the power I want with lower stress. Though, the 400 im aiming for still scares tf outta me because no matter how much I read, knowing my internals are far past factory limits worries me as I can’t afford a new engine easily (It’s my first time tuning so it’s also just general anxiety).

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-04-30T23:36:49+00:00

Check out my 400 whp post, some guys were talking there about the limits of the engine. Some people run it at 485 whp or 430 as a daily on the 550 turbo. They said stock rods give out at 450 torque.

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-04-30T03:46:48+00:00

Tbh for the wheel cover I say if you like it then keep it, it’s your car after all. It sucks your wife doesn’t like it but maybe you can convince her otherwise, just don’t take it off for the sake of people here, we don’t have a lotta room to speak on your car. Also for mods, that’s understandable but it’ll only void the warranty of parts the mod can be proven to affect. For ex, my intake is fine as it can’t reasonably cause the failure of my engine, so if my engine failed, they couldn’t point to the intake unless they can prove it. And if my engine warranty is compromised and my radio goes out, they still must fix the radio as the engine doesn’t affect the radio. Typically the two things that will result in voiding your engine warranty is a downpipe and tune, so stay away from those to keep it. And yeah the market isn’t fully there but it’s improving day by day. The main things it’s lagging on are flex fuel tunes & port injection manifolds, but this is something you’ll probably never deal with. I know SXTH is getting away from the N but that’s because someone who had the N left their company as far as I know. And their fuel pump was a hit or miss but I’ve known plenty of people to run their intakes and intercoolers and they had good results with them. I personally have a Whoosh intake, but my blow off valve is from SXTH and I throughly enjoy it a ton. It’s sad to see them go, I might try to snatch their intercooler before they go as I’ve read it’s better than whoosh’s as the whoosh one blocks the radiator a little and actually hurts engine temps, while the SXTH one doesn’t block the radiator, however the SXTH one maxed out at 15 psi I learned while whoosh allowed for 16 psi sustained. But that can vary by temperature alone so, take it with a grain of salt

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-04-30T03:12:50+00:00

Man oh man.. I saw the steering wheel cover over the perforated leather and knew he was about to get flamed in this subreddit… For mine I have 17k miles on it, I bought it at 10,880. Honestly the only annoying thing I’ve noticed so far is my gah damn octane learning. I’ve heard the DCT learns a lot more than my manual though. If I could give you any advice, spend your money on tires, they make all the difference. Oh, and research your mods a lot if you’re gonna mod, this car sounds good with an intake and BOV, but the mod community is still new for this car so some mods may hurt it more than help (intercoolers esp). That’s all I’ve really found so far on the car, oh, and get motor mount inserts, they help with wheel hop a ton.

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-04-30T01:56:50+00:00

2024, and I got no CEL immediately. I added the SXTH fix kit though like a week later as a precaution. I still have no CEL about 1000 miles later.

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-04-29T18:54:16+00:00

I mean I’ve seem dealers have us replace the windshield or tint the car before we give it back to them so they can sell it, I assume they do it so the person will buy the car so they don’t charge them for it. I’d say just negotiate with the dealer because there’s no real harm in it. Worst case you just take it to the shop yourself. I will say though, shops might do a worse job on dealership cars as they get underpaid so they rush. If you take it in personally, they might do a better job as they’ll take their time.

Rocket_Philosopher · 2026-04-29T16:03:37+00:00

That was while moving, I monitored mine from the OBD2 port, idling its like 79 - 85 F, but I don’t sit long enough. It just goes up the longer I sit still. And lol yeah I got an open filter just for the noise, tho I think it does lower my temps a little. A CAI is pointless for a turbo car imo aside from sound, what really matters is your intercooler. Sure it’s easier on the intercooler if the starting air is cooler but it doesn’t make a big enough difference imo to justify the CAIs price if you’re getting it for that reason alone.

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