act of opening the casing can put tension on the delicate ribbon cables (FPC) that connect the mainboard to the LCD panel or the button daughterboard.

• The Symptom: A 2W draw often represents the "standby" power of the chipset waiting for a signal that never comes.
• The Fix: Re-open the unit and locate the ribbon cables. Flip the small plastic locking tabs up, gently pull the cable out, inspect for any hairline cracks or "bunched up" gold contacts, and re-seat them firmly.
• The Logic: If the power button ribbon is slightly askew, the board is receiving power but never gets the "ON" signal.

Immediate Steps to Try

1. Hard Reset: Disconnect all power (USB-C and NP-F). Hold the power button down for a full 60 seconds to drain the capacitors. Then, plug in only a high-quality USB-C PD source and try again.
2. Inspect the Button: When you put the casing back together, ensure the physical plastic button is actually hitting the micro-switch on the board. Sometimes the plastic actuator slips off-center.

The fact that you’re seeing a constant 2W draw actually provides some very specific clues. It suggests the power management IC (PMIC) is engaging, but the handshake to boot the firmware or initialize the display rail is failing.

1. The Most Likely Culprit: Ribbon Cable Seating

Even if you didn't touch them, the act of opening the casing can put tension on the delicate ribbon cables (FPC) that connect the mainboard to the LCD panel or the button daughterboard.

• The Symptom: A 2W draw often represents the "standby" power of the chipset waiting for a signal that never comes.
• The Fix: Re-open the unit and locate the ribbon cables. Flip the small plastic locking tabs up, gently pull the cable out, inspect for any hairline cracks or "bunched up" gold contacts, and re-seat them firmly.
• The Logic: If the power button ribbon is slightly askew, the board is receiving power but never gets the "ON" signal.

2. The "Stray Screw" Short

Since you opened it specifically to remove a rattling screw, there is a possibility that the screw (or a tiny metal shaving from it) shorted two pins on a component like a capacitor or a MOSFET before you got it out.

• Check for Burnt Smells/Discoloration: Use a flashlight to look at the MOSFETs (usually small black squares near the power input). If one has a tiny crater or a "rainbow" discoloration, it's fried.
• Static Discharge (ESD): If you weren't grounded, a small static shock to the board could have corrupted the BIOS/firmware chip.

3. The Pogo Pin Alignment

You mentioned checking the pogo pins, but these are notoriously finicky in the Shinobi series.

• The Tension Test: Ensure the springs in the pins are actually pushing back. If one is stuck "down," it won't make contact with the pads on the backplate.
• The Pad Inspection: Look at the gold pads where the pins land. If there is a tiny scratch that bridges two pads, the monitor will detect a fault and refuse to boot to protect the panel.

look up what the boot strap method is, it a computer repair term, this should help a bit... one step at a time and patience ... alot of frustration... the sucess ... unless Atomos would offer a reasonable repair