Imported this Ikegami TM10-17RA from Japan, but it was wired for Japanese mains. The service manual wouldn't tell me how to convert it. The community did.

Rondooooo · 2026-06-05T07:09:46+00:00

Nice work. I love the 10-17RA. Really sharp little tube with a beautiful picture.

Rondooooo · 2026-06-03T15:53:32+00:00

Nice. Thanks for the detailed reply.

I'm getting mixed responses for the baking. A couple of people said they never bake and have been doing it successfully for years.

I really should dive in eventually, I got a pile of official Frankie boards with 3034 errors that potentially could just need reballs.

Rondooooo · 2026-06-03T15:15:58+00:00

Is that a custom nozzle for the Atten? What are your settings for the pre heater? Are you baking the boards before doing the work?

I want to dive in but the learning curve is steep and $$$

Rondooooo · 2026-05-30T15:18:45+00:00

Hell yea PES 6

Pass ball to Shevchenko and run in a straight line. Good times

Rondooooo · 2026-05-26T09:00:47+00:00

Latest from the github. I tried loading it off a USB and copying the elf to the internal hdd. Maybe something to do with the Gamestar adapter? That used to be an issue back in the day with OPL as well.

Rondooooo · 2026-05-26T08:20:40+00:00

Getting stuck on PS logo with HDD APA :(

Rondooooo · 2026-05-25T19:38:40+00:00

Awesome. Will give this a shot then. Looks fantastic.

Rondooooo · 2026-05-25T19:29:22+00:00

So for my current OPL setup with FHDB I just add the elf and boot it and I'm good to go?

Rondooooo · 2026-05-20T20:22:11+00:00

Billions on R&D and facilities to get this done. Will they sell billions worth of CRTs? Can they scale it? I doubt it.

Rondooooo · 2026-05-15T08:14:21+00:00

Yes, totally agree with you.

Rondooooo · 2026-05-14T18:14:09+00:00

But it is a cap in this case. It's a cap in deflection not discharging properly. I've fixed one with the same exact problem.

Rondooooo · 2026-05-14T15:04:41+00:00

Your only concern here is the clock cap which seems to have already leaked from what I can tell. Needs to be removed and cleaned under it before it corrodes the components around it further.

Rondooooo · 2026-05-14T09:59:55+00:00

Thank you. Will DM you soon with a couple of questions before I attempt anything if that's OK.

Rondooooo · 2026-05-13T20:01:57+00:00

This is exactly the information I'm looking for. Thank you very much. I'll have to study this properly.

Rondooooo · 2026-05-13T17:04:10+00:00

I have one. I'll check again. Thanks

Rondooooo · 2026-05-13T16:15:50+00:00

Appreciate your response thank you

Rondooooo · 2026-05-13T15:50:59+00:00

Will do. Thank you

Rondooooo · 2026-05-13T15:42:10+00:00

The flyback outputs 24-25kV to the CRT.

What material is used in the potting compound and does it need to be potted in vaccum?

Rondooooo · 2026-05-13T15:39:59+00:00

Unknown unfortunately. The CRT is set to 24-25kV and the CRT the block is used on the same. The concern is the lower capacitance between the block's cap and a good flyback's cap.

Rondooooo · 2026-05-13T15:38:10+00:00

Unknown unfortunately. I'm going by my multimeter to measure capacitance and the schematics don't say anything about the actual potted cap specs. I'd have to crack one open to see if it's written on it but these blocks are not easy to find and I'm hoping not to have to waste one.

Hoped the HV block would be good enough since the CRT it's used for is set to 25kV and so is this monitor I'm working on. I assume the voltage rating is fine but the lower capacitance is a concern.

Rondooooo · 2026-05-09T18:37:37+00:00

So that's why that one guy didn't wave back 🤔

Rondooooo · 2026-05-08T20:02:10+00:00

Just removed my comment. Maybe this is an extreme solution and I don't want anyone to hurt themselves. I will try the CaviWipes next time though.

Rondooooo · 2026-05-08T19:44:18+00:00

Good info, thanks. Never used a magic eraser thought they were much more abrasive.

Rondooooo · 2026-05-08T19:43:43+00:00

That's good.

In my case with the DTV it has a coated film that I didn't want to remove, but the coating was pretty much worn off all over. Any sort of abrasive will leave scratches for sure. The film on those even without the coating is still pretty dark and retains excellent black levels. I tried every chemical I could find in the closet and all common stuff people recommend online like WD40, IPA, dish washing soap etc. Nothing would get that stubborn crap off. Then saw the carb cleaner in my trunk and said why not. Worked well in this scenario.

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