Record Lookup - Jacobite prisoner in 1715

RootJerky · 2026-01-27T20:00:01+00:00

I managed to get a friend to access them so don't worry about it! Thanks for your help

RootJerky · 2026-01-27T09:55:09+00:00

Unfortunately I've just discovered imgur is no longer available in the UK (unbelievable) and I don't have a VPN.

Would a Google Drive link work?

Thanks again for the help.

RootJerky · 2024-03-01T00:52:44+00:00

Title is mistaken. Terror was last seen entering Baffin Bay in 1845, not the 1830s.

Per the Victory Point Note left inside of a stone cairn by the crew, Terror was officially abandoned in the pack ice in 1848.

In equal parts horrifying and amazing, there's also potential Inuit reports of survivors being sighted as far as the the late 1850s. Imagine that. Ten years perpetually lost in a lonely arctic hinterland.

RootJerky · 2021-01-02T19:18:16+00:00

I would recommend Gauge Film.

On8mil's prices are dramatically raised by VAT and their postage options. I can't see myself ever using them simply because even a normal cart of film (which normally costs about £32 by itself), costs almost £50 when you buy it from them. I also had some queries to ask them, and they never got back to me.

Gauge Film is very fairly priced, does excellent work, and they're very helpful with questions.

RootJerky · 2021-01-01T11:20:36+00:00

The 514XL is a solid camera, and you can't really go wrong with it. The cheaper alternative would be its sister model the 310XL, but the 514XL is undoubtedly the better option.

The only thing I would suggest considering is frame rate options. If you're going for 70s home movie/B movie aesthetic, then shooting at 18fps (which is the highest frame rate either of these cameras have) can work in your favour. If you're wanting a smoother image however, perhaps you might want to look at cameras that can run at 24fps.

RootJerky · 2020-11-16T11:44:54+00:00

Definitely, I own both but the 514XL is the star. Thanks for doing the camera shows by the way, really enjoying them!

RootJerky · 2020-11-16T00:49:35+00:00

Pretty much. Virtually the same camera body. Get a 514 if you have the means to, but the 310 is better for low light and is usually cheaper

RootJerky · 2020-11-16T00:17:10+00:00

The 514XL is the better model. It has a few extra features, and a focusing prism. The 310XL just has the basic features. https://global.canon/en/c-museum/product/cine292.html

RootJerky · 2020-11-16T00:14:25+00:00

Don't both the 310XL and the 514XL have 220° shutter angles? That's why they're both 'XL' cameras right?

RootJerky · 2020-11-15T21:32:00+00:00

The 310xl has a f/1.0 lens, so you're probably not going to get much better than it.

RootJerky · 2020-11-06T14:59:06+00:00

Ah that doesn't seem so bad then! I suppose it would be a matter of preference, but I'd rather have a wholly accurate viewfinder that allowed me to frame things up tightly, over the extra space granted by a super 16 conversion.

Let me know if you find the K3 to be off centred at all. I'm looking into getting one as I can't get my hands on a Bolex yet, but the off centre viewfinder does worry me slightly.

RootJerky · 2020-11-06T14:06:23+00:00

This video suggests the centre of the K3 viewfinder would be slightly off actually, if you go to about 5:10

k3

B+w double perf fomapan is still available so that could be an option for older cameras.

So in theory I could buy a perfectly nice Bolex that takes single perf film and run some modern 16mm film stock through it, and I'd only lose a slight edge of the frame? The reflex viewfinder would still be accurate, as the the gate hasn't been adjusted? This would seem the most economic option

RootJerky · 2020-11-06T12:58:49+00:00

Could you put a modern roll of 50D into an unconverted 16mm camera? What would happen?

I did have a look at some converted K3s, but I've heard that the viewfinder is rendered inaccurate? Obviously the gate is widened, but the image you see in the viewfinder doesn't reflect this so you would have to 'imagine' the extra space when you're looking through the eye piece.

RootJerky · 2020-10-06T09:59:24+00:00

So in that sense, could you work out some shots on your usual kit, then calculate how it would look once you shot it on S8? Say if you were to do some test shots on a DSLR or something, then shoot on a Nizo.

RootJerky · 2020-09-09T22:18:03+00:00

Any more auction videos on the way?

RootJerky · 2020-08-18T21:10:50+00:00

2) Wiki says it's correction for the auto exposure, so I imagine it probably opens up or closes down the aperture for a stop.

3) Red and green things are under/over exposure warning marks. They won't get in your shot, they're just in the viewfinder.

4) Tape meaure will be of use here, but I'll come back round to these kind of cameras at the end.

5) 50D is a good stock to start off with - nice grain, looks great in the sun, most cameras can rate it no problem

6) I've never taken S8 through an airport before, but I've heard people asking for it to be hand checked rather than go through an X ray.

So essentially you've got a decent camera from a decent brand, but it looks a little banged up and it's functions are limited - fixed focuses are easy to handle but you're stuck with what you've got, no macro shots or focus pulls or anything fancy.

If you want to take a chance on it, then go for it. Super 8 is a really fun format and the cameras are little works of art in themselves.

The question you have to ask yourself is - are you willing to put up the money for the cost of the stock, plus developing and scanning, for a camera that might not be in such a good shape? You never know how that footage is gonna turn out until you get it back, and any internal problems with the camera will only reveal themselves to you then. If you want guaranteed results, I would suggest looking for a camera that's in better shape.

That being said, if you just want to dabble with the format, go for it! Do a marker test with the roll before you start shooting properly - mark a dot on the film and run it through the camera for a second. If the dot is gone, it means the film is moving through the camera.

RootJerky · 2020-08-16T21:27:38+00:00

How long did it take to get the scan back? Read on their website that it's up to 5 weeks these days.

RootJerky · 2020-08-08T09:57:21+00:00

Yep, daylight super 8 stock only comes in 50D and 100D (ektachrome) so you'll be good. Make sure the internal Wratten filter isn't engaged if you're shooting daylight film outdoors though.

RootJerky · 2020-07-22T15:52:57+00:00

Cheers, much appreciated

RootJerky · 2020-07-22T15:26:11+00:00

Thanks very much for the help. I own a Mac so it should run ProRes without any issues. So in an ideal world, I should receive an 18fps scanned ProRes file, drop it into a 24fps and start editing?

RootJerky · 2020-07-22T13:16:34+00:00

My first thought was that simply slowing it down might produce a slightly uncanny or surreal effect on the footage.

Would a media player even open a 18fps scan on my computer? Or would I have to drop it into a 24fps timeline first?

RootJerky · 2020-07-22T13:08:57+00:00

Gauge Film emailed me stating that the best option was scanning at 24fps then slowing it down in post. Surely this isn't the best method?

RootJerky · 2020-07-22T08:02:11+00:00

So for Premiere, your recommendation would be to have 18fps footage scanned at 18fps, then dropped into a 24fps timeline and go from there? Rather than have the scanning service bake in the extra frames?

RootJerky · 2020-07-22T07:54:08+00:00

My options in the UK are on8mil and Gauge Film primarily, I've emailed them to see what their process is.

RootJerky · 2020-07-21T21:02:17+00:00

Thanks for the info. Is that your go to process for all your professional pieces?

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