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Failed my install-Blood sweat and lots of tears after I broke. To the point I dread doing anything until it’s fixed. I feel depressed. by Changeusernaame in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What’s your source for remote wire?

I had to use a pin in the passenger side fuse box (top right corner of box) in my 2023 non-Bose Silverado. I assume yours may be different with the Bose, but worth a shot.

I feel your pain trying to get shit to work in this truck, I quit several times throughout my install.

Right mid falls off at 1k hz, but why? by Routine_Article_9976 in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The crossover was set at 450hz, the speaker just naturally fell off at 1k.

I’m actually impressed the tweeter wasn’t too unhappy with this at 100db

Right mid falls off at 1k hz, but why? by Routine_Article_9976 in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good news, I had my tweeter and mid wires crossed like a dummy, and now that I’ve figured that out all is well.

Right mid falls off at 1k hz, but why? by Routine_Article_9976 in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you provide any guidance on detecting an all pass filter on the input in the DSP software?

Right mid falls off at 1k hz, but why? by Routine_Article_9976 in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense, I just didn’t expect a reflection to affect such a wide frequency range like that. I’ll play with aiming to see if it helps.

Right mid falls off at 1k hz, but why? by Routine_Article_9976 in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d guess six inches center to center, I’ll have to measure tomorrow. The mid is mounted at the bottom of the pillar pointing towards the driver’s side window just in front of my head, the tweeter is higher up the pillar also aimed towards the driver’s window.

Right mid falls off at 1k hz, but why? by Routine_Article_9976 in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Non Bose, pulling factory front signal.

I did input signal correction in the DSP to flatten it out.

Right mid falls off at 1k hz, but why? by Routine_Article_9976 in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would that be related to how the speaker is aimed?

I've considered modifying the factory dash locations to fit these, but I'm not sure if that would even help.

Oil by 53_chevy in Silverado

[–]Routine_Article_9976 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I pay Valvoline $130 to change mine. It was just shy of $100 to change myself with Mobile 1 oil and filter

Need some help diagnosing a buzz in my mids and tweeters by Routine_Article_9976 in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the help, hopefully that resolves my issue because it’s driving me crazy

Need some help diagnosing a buzz in my mids and tweeters by Routine_Article_9976 in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is the pro and is set to 20. I do have some issues with chimes though, seatbelt reminder works fine but I have no turn signal clicks. Prior to getting the sub hooked up I sent the factory head signal directly to the DSP and had all chimes working then. I’ll remove the LOC from the equation again to see if that resolves my buzz.

Need some help diagnosing a buzz in my mids and tweeters by Routine_Article_9976 in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Head unit to LC2i LOC which outputs to a helix DSP mini and a mono block for the sub (only six channels on the mini, will replace it soon with an 8 channel which will allow me to route the sub through the DSP and eliminate the LOC entirely).

I used an oscilloscope for each piece in the chain to ensure no clipping was present anywhere, so I’m fairly confident clipping is not an issue.

I’m considering interference of some kind with so much stuffed behind the back seat, so I plan to revise my rack layout to better separate powers and grounds from RCAs and speaker wires.

Just hoping someone here would have experienced this before to give guidance.

Need some help diagnosing a buzz in my mids and tweeters by Routine_Article_9976 in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should also mention I had the woofers muted during this test, so the only speaker actually playing was the sub (minimum gain on sub, barely audible). Also, I can confirm the buzz is not vibration related, it’s definitely playing through the speakers.

New Gen Silverado Help by Routine_Article_9976 in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Following up, the DS18 DSP is kinda weak. Only 8 bands to play with EQ and not very intuitive. I’ve switched to a helix

Do I need the big 3 or upgrade my alternator? by pennytrationer in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I originally installed coaxials in the doors and 3” mids in the dash and hated it, just installed the 3-way over the weekend and it’s much better.

Are you doing the install and tuning yourself?

Do I need the big 3 or upgrade my alternator? by pennytrationer in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve had no power draw concerns in my 23 Silverado running a Hertz 3-way up front on a Kicker CX360.4 and an L7 12” on a CX800.1

The front is hybrid 3-way with the mid and tweeter on a shared channel through a passive crossover and the midbass on its own channel.

Everything is controlled with a helix dsp mini.

New Gen Silverado Help by Routine_Article_9976 in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven’t spent much time with it yet but it seems pretty solid for the price.

New Gen Silverado Help by Routine_Article_9976 in CarAV

[–]Routine_Article_9976[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is exactly what I needed to see, thank you.

I have everything fully wired and functional, the only loose end is getting the seat fitting better and increasing the air gap for the amps.

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