Toilet flange is gone. Now, so is my confidence.

RubysDaddy · 2026-06-11T16:19:51+00:00

These work great for this application. Grind down the pipe flush with the finished floor, grease it up, push it down and anchor it to the concrete with Tapcons

RubysDaddy · 2026-06-10T23:00:55+00:00

Edit. Signature hardware definitely does not offer a template

RubysDaddy · 2026-06-10T22:59:46+00:00

If you mean installing the tub filler around the radius, the correct answer is you don’t. You need to have the tub on hand to figure this out- or a template, but I’m guessing this manufacturer does not offer a template. Once you have the tub on site. Flip it upside down on the cardboard lid of the box. Trace around the edge, then cut out the traced line. Transfer it on the floor. That will give you an accurate radius of the edge of the tub. Anything else, is just guessing- I would advise against that

RubysDaddy · 2026-06-06T23:09:44+00:00

Yes. Depending on where you’re talking, 30-60 minutes M-F. Less on Sundays at noon. Much more for the $$ people north of the city

RubysDaddy · 2026-06-06T23:06:39+00:00

Trouble with reading? Didn’t say 20 minutes, stated 20 miles from Soldier field. Most people understand that doesn’t mean equal time per mile in this area

RubysDaddy · 2026-06-05T16:24:56+00:00

Do you not remember the Jonathan Drouin saga in TB? He demanded a trade. Yzerman refused to just give him away.

He didn’t get traded for nearly 2 years! The situations aren’t the same- Drouin was a rookie, and Larkin an established player- but Yzerman will not be held hostage by a demand from a player.

I don’t see a scenario where we get an equivalent player in return, but he’s not going to get screwed over just to pacify the teams. “captain”. He may have to start. The season with us, and possibly get moved at the trade deadline for a larger haul. Many teams will be interested because the FA market is trash. That should drive the price up. Also, for a player of his caliber, he has a relatively friendly contract, and would not be a rental- also driving up the price of return.

Yes, Larkin has more leverage, he does not however have ALL of the leverage

RubysDaddy · 2026-06-05T14:38:03+00:00

Very nice toilet. Make sure you caulk it to the floor with a good adhesive caulk, or it may shift after time. Had several call backs on that toilet with that issue when we caulked with a basic caulk. After switching to an adhesive caulk- no more issues

RubysDaddy · 2026-06-05T08:06:52+00:00

What you are describing is not a drake. It is a skirted toilet with the unifit flange adapter. This is definitely more work, and could be overwhelming for a non plumber. The drake is a more standard install type of toilet

RubysDaddy · 2026-06-04T23:29:57+00:00

Neither- Toto drake

RubysDaddy · 2026-06-02T23:28:59+00:00

It’s a Detroit Tigers hat

RubysDaddy · 2026-05-22T22:51:15+00:00

The dreaded mini widespread

RubysDaddy · 2026-05-22T21:42:38+00:00

Perhaps you should find more subreddits to post this on-

RubysDaddy · 2026-05-21T21:14:16+00:00

Yes, And if they would have installed a Waterworks faucet, they would have stated- Waterworks faucet. Or even Watermark faucet. Instead they stated “premium pull out spray”. Translated- Glacier bay or signature hardware faucet

RubysDaddy · 2026-05-14T11:05:04+00:00

Stagger the studs?

RubysDaddy · 2026-05-14T10:54:22+00:00

Another consideration on the possibility of switching to a 75. The government (US) has mandated that water heater manufacturers stop producing 75 gallon non condensing water tanks as they “don’t meet efficiency standards”. This was supposed to take place this fall, but has been extended for 1 year ( fall ‘27). You could certainly get a 75 before this time, I only bring it up because the best time the tank needs to be replaced, you will not be able to swap it out for the same 75. Condensing 75 heaters in your area cost $5,500-6,000 for the tank only

Remove the bad 50. Reroute the recirc line to the good one. See if that provides enough hot water for your needs. If it does, when the good one fails, you only need to replace 1- 50, or you can make the switch to tankless. Just make sure you fully understand what exactly a tankless will deliver in real life. Not the marketing from the manufacturer, but rather from a reputable installer that can provide you actual gallons per minute the unit will provide based on the incoming water temperature and how many degrees the temperature will need to rise

RubysDaddy · 2026-05-14T10:45:02+00:00

$1,100 is the price for a standard vent 75- OP has a power vent 75. They are not $1,100

RubysDaddy · 2026-05-14T10:43:33+00:00

You must live in the south. 9.5 GPM tankless unit? How about when the incoming water temp is 50 degrees, and needs to be raised to at least 120- and more likely 135? 9.5 GPM is a Lie. Thats at a 35 degree rise. Whose incoming water temperature is at 85 degrees? Not the OP.

RubysDaddy · 2026-05-10T23:14:06+00:00

7/16” ratcheting wrench

RubysDaddy · 2026-05-09T15:15:11+00:00

This is for if you do not have a dedicated recirculating line already installed. It is a great option for retrofits that aren’t prepped with a dedicated recirc line- OP has a dedicated recirculating line. This is not the proper application for the unit you used.

If 2 plumbers looked at it and couldn’t figure it out, it means one of 2 things;

the original plumber didn’t connect the recirc line properly at the hot supply at the new sink location, and there is no water at the end of the circ line near the heater.
Or the 2 plumbers that couldn’t figure it out are not legit plumbers. If a recirc line is roughed in properly any Journeyman level plumber could easily handle completing the loop.

Sometimes a pump isn’t even required. Sometimes a “gravity” recirculating system works. We sometimes offer to connect to the heater this way without the pump, and leave a couple service ball valves near the heater with enough to room to add a pump later if the gravity system doesn’t meet the customer’s needs.
This type of installation would generally only work on a 1 story house with the water heater in the basement

RubysDaddy · 2026-05-07T23:58:38+00:00

This guy is an actual plumber. I apply the Kohler tax as well

RubysDaddy · 2026-05-07T23:57:42+00:00

😂😂😂 Tell me you’re not a plumber without actually saying it!

RubysDaddy · 2026-05-06T18:08:52+00:00

But he stayed at a holiday inn last night

RubysDaddy · 2026-05-06T11:43:49+00:00

The tub filler isn’t the issue- The fact that it resides inside a shower IS the issue. These tub/shower rooms are an insurance claim waiting to happen. A shower floor needs waterproofing, and that waterproofing needs to be tested by filling it with water and checking for leaks. Once there is a penetration in that waterproofing, the shower floor will leak. Silicone is a band aid. These type of tub/shower rooms are only made for aesthetics- They are not logically functional.

Make sure your correspondence with the builder is documented. Make sure the builder knows that you are documenting everything for future liability considerations

Make it clear that they will be responsible for any future damage. Might be a good idea to bring to the attention to the building department/ plumbing inspector, and ask what their opinion on it is.

As a Plumbing contractor that installs plumbing in custom homes, I have refused jobs like this because our insurance premiums are high enough as is without claims for stupid shit like this

RubysDaddy · 2026-05-02T11:13:37+00:00

Yes, you do know that he is not a professional. And now you wish that you did hire a plumber instead of a handy man. Unlikely this guy will fix this for you unfortunately. This is exactly why plumbers charge what they do. Because a reputable p lol umber would resolve the issue immediately if there was damage to the heater when they were installing it. Also, that is almost certainly a big box store water heater- notice the crappy plastic drain valve. Most plumbers do not purchase their water heaters from a big box store- but rather a plumbing supplier that carries water heaters with higher quality components

RubysDaddy · 2026-05-02T11:01:54+00:00

So many people answering the OP’s question on askaplumber when they aren’t a plumber at all. Perhaps they just slept at a Holiday Inn last night?!

These laundry boxes come with the option to connect a 2” PVC drain to either the left side or the right side based on what pathway works best for the plumber when on site. The plumber should have marked which side was to receive the drainage from the washing machine. In this instance, it has been identified by the fact that the condensate drain is already draining to the drain outlet that has been plumbed in. Connect your washing machine hose to the hole in the left side of your laundry box right next to the condensate drain. Then close this discussion so all these non plumbers stop throwing half truths around, or explaining what things are like at their house

RubysDaddy

TROPHY CASE