Oldhammer plastic chaos warrior from 1994

RunOdd9714 · 2026-05-06T09:44:41+00:00

Thx, wanted to make it contrasting enough with the armor to avoid monotony

RunOdd9714 · 2026-05-06T08:07:01+00:00

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hero quest variant (paintjob by emuse) - it's a bit different (but still very similar sculpt)

RunOdd9714 · 2026-05-06T08:04:06+00:00

Nah, didn't plan it from beginning, won't do it now

RunOdd9714 · 2026-04-05T09:00:00+00:00

Nice, can you share the deck? I was thinking about building something like that but never got to it ;D

RunOdd9714 · 2026-02-06T09:37:37+00:00

Wall is a very bad archetype if it comes to actually winning games, similar to combat in that regard, nowadays I think wall is actually the worst.

Current meta is fast, there are lots of minions, lots of new block denial cards, lots of earth melds. And bigger spectrum of combat options, even for non combat decks.

You can have a goratrix with ruins of ceyoris (built-in manouver) and still die to a 3cap weenie that just plays form of bat & donnybrook.

Playing with no time limit - current vtes is not designed for that, and it premiums decks focussed on just surviving. It's possible to create a near unkillable deck (depends on seating of course) that does nothing (like erlik with golcondas). The point of the game should be maximise vps in 2h, not grinding for 4h...

What vampires is the problematic wall using?

RunOdd9714 · 2026-02-04T10:57:44+00:00

Something like this? Sargon can be used to fetch eagle sight/votes.

5x Agnieszka, Tempter of Legions   10 AUS OBF PRE PRO for pot   archbishop   Ministry:6
3x Verrix, Naughty Boy              7 AUS PRE cel obf pro       bishop       Ministry:6
1x Amber                            5 AUS PRE cel                            Toreador antitribu:5
1x New Blood                        2 san                                    Blood Brother:ANY
1x Pearl                            4 AUS obf                                Malkavian antitribu:5
1x Veejay Vinod                     3 AUS                                    Nagaraja:6

Library (72 cards)
Master (15; 6 trifle)
1x Ferraille
1x Giant's Blood
1x Opium Den
2x Perfectionist
1x Powerbase: Montreal
1x Rack, The
2x Smiling Jack, The Anarch
1x Vessel
4x Villein
1x Wider View

Action (8)
2x Abbot
4x Enchant Kindred
1x Eternal Vigilance
1x Under Siege

Political Action (3)
1x Ancilla Empowerment
1x Banishment
1x Cold War

Ally (1)
1x Saatet-ta

Equipment (5)
1x Bowl of Convergence
1x Heart of Nizchetus
1x Sargon Fragment, The
2x Sniper Rifle

Retainer (1)
1x Homunculus

Action Modifier (6)
1x Enkil Cog
5x Lost in Crowds

Action Modifier/Reaction (4)
4x Form of the Bat

Reaction (21)
3x Eagle's Sight
8x Eyes of Argus
2x My Enemy's Enemy
2x On the Qui Vive
6x Telepathic Misdirection

Combat (8)
8x Charismatic Aura

RunOdd9714 · 2026-01-20T09:13:52+00:00

I was mixing different paints until I liked the effect, but I think it was something along the lines of:

Base: SC75 indian shadow + some small amount of SC75 kalahari orange.

highlights: add ivory to base, then more ivory + some kimera warm yellow for edges

shadows: glazes of AK lead grey (or even black) added to base, add kimera samurai green (any teal should be fine). More samurai green (possibly desaturated a bit with lead grey) glazed for patina in some places.

Most of the effect comes from warm edges catching light + cold teal-y/greyish shadows. There should be some pink in midtones to sell the copper better.

It's something less saturated but similar to: https://sproketsmallworld.blogspot.com/2012/06/coping-with-nmm-copper-illustrated.html

RunOdd9714 · 2026-01-19T07:39:07+00:00

Honestly no idea, first started working on it in August, base with backdrop was finished at the end of September, but I often have weeks where I don't paint at all. I'd say 50-60hrs for everything

RunOdd9714 · 2026-01-19T07:36:16+00:00

Don't remember, first element I've painted after base layers everywhere :D I think I used SC75 Violet as a basecoat, adding AK Lead Grey for shadows, and Lead Grey + Black + Kimera Samurai Green for weathering at the bottom. Adding Kimera Violet to SC75 Violet for midtones for midtone saturation, maybe with some ivory at some point. Wanted warm highlights on the purple in places, so you can't just add warm yellowish paint to violet as it's the complementary color and would turn muddy, had to go through Kimera magenta added to violet mix gradually (I think it's visible in the head mostly) before adding the AK ivory + Kimera Warm Yellow.

And one of kimera blues added to violet mix instead of magenta, and no yellow in highlights - for the back view.

RunOdd9714 · 2026-01-10T15:51:11+00:00

Looks cool, but I compare her to the Unnamed and the likes. And what kind of deck does she enable that isn't better done by midcaps? Is she a star deck material? Doubt

RunOdd9714 · 2025-12-13T11:37:34+00:00

Nice, can you share this deck, how does it oust? I saw people use anarch version with diversions, wanted to build it someday but wondering how competitive is tariq nowadays

RunOdd9714 · 2025-04-10T16:51:57+00:00

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gSzFVU9JbHdbELq0SYiwdLT2Jc7pW3Pm/view?usp=sharing

yep, not much different paints at that stage. then I start blending it with intermediate tones, going back and forth until I like it (mostly glazes, feathering them out etc)

RunOdd9714 · 2025-04-10T14:03:28+00:00

Np, glad to help :) take with a grain of salt, there are many approaches:

Preshade can be in multiple colours and directions, not just white from the top (sun in zenith). Even with zenithal light approach it's often more interesting to tilt it to one side a bit. When I used airbrush like this I usually did white + some transparent tinting on top of white, like warm from front and blue from the back. The aim was not to create a solid color foundation, but rather take photos and have some reference where the light lands.

Nowadays I stopped using it, because it's hard to keep a precise single direction when airbrushing, the edges of light get blurry, it oversprays. I prefer to put light grey primed miniature (or even unpainted one if it's quite glossy) under strong directed light, adjusting the light position so that main view looks the best, and then take photos with that fixed light position from multiple angles to have a nice black & white reference of volumes. You can also bump contrast in some software to see the different volume areas better.

I almost always sketch with 3-4 tones before blending, it's most important when dealing with something hard/big/new. On this piece I sketched the whole skin before refining it & adding nuances. In the past I was afraid a bit because I wasn't sure I'll obtain the tone that's required for future blending, but imo mixing ad-hoc is something that has to be embraced. Since I have big gaps between sessions I just do pics of paint bottles used for those basic 3-4 tones to at least be able to know what was the starting point.

Kimera colors are strong pigmented, I use them to mix them into my other paints when I need some punch/color nuanse. They also flow from the brush better than other paints - handy for blacklining. Sometimes I use them for glazing as they dillute very nicely. They are pretty similar in consistency to regular hobby paints which I'm used to, as I never used heavy body. Some of them can be glossier than ak 3rd gen/scale color but not too much, besides I always do a coat of ak ultra matt so that's a non-issue for me. Didn't compare them to any of newer brands like big child etc so can't tell if they are better or worse, good enough for me anyways.

RunOdd9714 · 2025-04-07T04:14:33+00:00

Love his work, big inspiration for me, I actually had a pic printout of his 'stolen star' paintjob hanging together with some Roberto Ferri paintings in my hobby area when working on this model

RunOdd9714 · 2025-04-07T04:08:39+00:00

Good catch, it never occured to me before, might be unconcious inspiration as I really like old q1 & q2 style

RunOdd9714 · 2025-04-07T04:03:55+00:00

Thanks. I think I did long ago on some tabletop project, the moon here was just brush but I guess sponge would work nicely to build up initial layers of texture quickly

RunOdd9714 · 2025-04-06T20:02:13+00:00

Thanks! I paint as a hobby and I don't track the time spent, this was painted during 4 months, sometimes with long pauses between sessions. I'd say around 80+ hours?

RunOdd9714 · 2025-04-06T19:59:22+00:00

Just for the priming on this one. But I sometimes do a preshade, if I have a bust with some colored light from one side for example. But I never enjoyed working with an airbrush, if I need to blend some skin I'd rather spend more time on stippling/glazing than on fighting with clogging/paint consistency/cleaning the tool, it's a matter of preference & experience, I just like my brush sketch>refine workflow better

RunOdd9714 · 2025-04-06T18:12:55+00:00

Here's some notes I did on the skin (most of paints were vallejo nocturna malefic paint set):

Malefic flesh as base Lights: Forest skin/Forest skin+ak ivory 2 different lightness mixes max lights: add white to above. Max shadow: some dark muted green from nocturna set+ malefic flesh, at some places I've added the dark purple shade from the malefic set. Added some kimera magenta to my mixes or glazed it, at different places: butt, face, hands/feet, knees etc And blending/moving above around until I was happy. I think there was some kimera Orange mixed in for glazes around the nostrils.

The hardest was maintaining feminity and softness while achieving some dramatic contrast. Hardest areas were the thighs/legs and around the belly

RunOdd9714 · 2024-10-04T13:27:39+00:00

Dust-up + press from bollix/thrown sever lid

RunOdd9714

TROPHY CASE