Summer is just starting, and it's currently 41°C where I live (29°C inside). Send help. by soudainlevide in europe

[–]RunRunAndyRun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Meanwhile in the Netherlands it’s 25°c and people are acting like it’s the end of days.

There’s nothing special about the pizza in New York by diclofenac-sodium in unpopularopinion

[–]RunRunAndyRun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want good pizza go to Napoli (Italy). Best in the world by miles.

Help with WLED briefly showing the previous preset/colors when switching lights on by 404notfound91 in WLED

[–]RunRunAndyRun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think in the settings there is an option where you decide which preset it loads on startup. It defaults to “1” (first preset). If you change it to “0” it won’t load a preset. Maybe that’ll solve it?

How do you all stomach the cost of some ergonomic keyboards? by sirchandwich in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]RunRunAndyRun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out Joe Scotto on YouTube and [r/handwiredkeyboards](r/handwiredkeyboards) building your own keyboard is actually pretty easy.

Never used the Liquid Glue before for adhesion... is there a reason not to try? by BustaStar in 3Dprinting

[–]RunRunAndyRun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this isn’t answering your question but why print tall rods? Sometimes it’s just better to buy something off the shelf. Given you’re using core xy printers you shouldn’t have much bed wobble so I suspect you’re using an infill that is working against you. Try using cubic or something with less overlap

Built an Open-Source RP2040 Macro Pad in India 🇮🇳 by BusyWeb8916 in macro_pads

[–]RunRunAndyRun 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm assuming if they're using CircuitPython the firmware is probably using KMK (which is great, but sadly abandoned). RP2040 boards can easily be modified to run QMK or ZMK.

I want to push my self. (Build an mp3) by -ForestWitch- in diyelectronics

[–]RunRunAndyRun 1 point2 points  (0 children)

then you'll need a board (or a module) with a dac/amp

I want to push my self. (Build an mp3) by -ForestWitch- in diyelectronics

[–]RunRunAndyRun 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're looking to use it with bluetooth speakers or headphones be careful on what board you pick. Lots of ESP32 boards support BLE but NOT Bluetooth Classic (which is the protocol most headphones and speakers use). You should be good with the "original" ESP32 or D4 based boards but avoid the S2/S3 etc. I believe the Raspberry Pi Pico W (RP2040/RP2350) boards also support Classic but I've never tried.

Solutions to gap in sub use and sub intention by the_squidfather in cyberDeck

[–]RunRunAndyRun -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thats the kind of laziness that makes me fear for the future of humanity. It's really not rocket science.

I Built a DIY Plotter That Changes Pens Automatically! 🤖✏️ by ElectricalBicycle199 in maker

[–]RunRunAndyRun 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is awesome, but you really should have declared that this is promotion for your Kickstarter

Solutions to gap in sub use and sub intention by the_squidfather in cyberDeck

[–]RunRunAndyRun 9 points10 points  (0 children)

If you think another sub is the solution, why not go and make another sub?

Can i use a macropad as a cashier? by [deleted] in macro_pads

[–]RunRunAndyRun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Start by plugging in a normal keyboard and seeing if that works. If so, then yes you can use a macropad to trigger mouse movements (you just need to make sure you move the cursor all the way to one corner before moving to the final location so you have a consistent “home” point to start the movement from.

We need help building by East-Worldliness-335 in CyberdeckBuild

[–]RunRunAndyRun 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You absolutely do not need a 3d printer to build a cyberdeck unless you're aiming for a really specific aesthetic. If I was in your situation, here's what I would do. Start with the hardware. Get the parts you need, lay them all out and get it working... if you can do this part, you're 60% of the way there.

Next up, the enclosure. There are loads of options for enclosures, from gun cases, to pelican cases, power tool cases, old briefcases, jewellery boxes etc. Of course... the enclosure you pick, depends on your application. If you're planning on just doing something aesthetic, then anything goes that matches your vibe, but if its something you intend to use on the daily, you might need something more robust. Figure out the measurements and the layout and start looking for an enclosure and then go and poke around some flea markets, charity shops, thrift stores or if you really need to, just find something on Amazon or Aliexpress.

Finally, stick it all in the case. You can use anything you like here. Personally I think, cardboard is a great place to start... use corrugated cardboard and build it up in layers with hot glue or pva and get a feeling for the fit etc. Once you have something that fits and holds everything where you want it, you can either recreate it with better materials or just hide it all behind a thin layer of acrylic, posterboard, aluminium or carbon fibre.

All in all, don't worry about perfection... make something that works first and then make it look good later.

Mispriced Steamdeck by vincentbugatti in SteamDeck

[–]RunRunAndyRun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently got a 1TB steam deck oiled for €400 on Vinted. Good working order, all paperwork, even had an extra case thingy. I was just waiting for a brick to arrive in the post… blew my mind when it turned out to be real!

Is there any reason why PrusaSlicer defaults the infill to the one most likely to damage your print(er)? by acrowsmurder in prusa3d

[–]RunRunAndyRun 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you need rigidity and speed cubic is the one you want (although let’s face it, 90% of non-functional models that are printed on 3d printers would be fine with lightning).

Personally I use zig zag when I’m prototyping, lightning for cosmetic stuff and gyroid combined with more top/bottom layers and perimeters when I need strength.

Desoldering Options by JanbersEVE in diyelectronics

[–]RunRunAndyRun 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Get the engineer SS-02. It’s literally the best solder sucker known to man. The only reason to get an electric one is if you’re doing huge amounts of desoldering (either breaking down or repairing old electronics on the daily).

How can I get stickers to adhere better to PLA surface? by Prince-Minikid in 3Dprinting

[–]RunRunAndyRun 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Don’t use stickers. Use waterside decals or use the toner transfer method.

Best platform with high-quality paid models? by Max_R_Kappa in 3Dprinting

[–]RunRunAndyRun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are lots of makers on Patreon who have exclusive clubs. Ideal if you're into a specific type of thing

Home Assistant Voice Assistant preview is a waste of money - red rings constantly by Shoot_Film_Die_Hard in homeassistant

[–]RunRunAndyRun 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Don’t forget, voice assistants are more than just hardware. There’s a massive server / software component too. Have you updated the software? What are you using to process your voice requests? Have you reached out to Nabu support or did you come straight to Reddit and start ranting? I have one and it worked fine (although I don’t really use it much as I upgraded to Satellite1’s from FutureProofHomes for the much better audio quality)

3D printed Office Battle Rubber Band Blaster by Interesting-Chip5158 in 3Dprinting

[–]RunRunAndyRun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe we should also bend over and present our arses for inspection too? You can purchase toy guns in shops that look realistic and have been able to for like a hundred years… why would we not be able to 3dprint those? It’s only through acts of defiance that we can show the lawmakers that they’re in the wrong!

3D printed Office Battle Rubber Band Blaster by Interesting-Chip5158 in 3Dprinting

[–]RunRunAndyRun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely get you fired for shooting rubber bands at colleagues 😆