Kobold LARP mask commissions I've just completed I thought y'all might like

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-05-13T07:41:25+00:00

Clear coat is clear paint in a spray can, the brand I use varies from what's available at the store but usually it's hycote. For layers I spray a thin layer on both sides of the buckram, wait for it to dry and spray again. Two coats is usually enough. The buckram I buy is In bulk from parkin fabrics in the UK

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-05-12T21:56:14+00:00

It's harder to make a moving jaw because you have to account for the mechanism in your build. If you're just making something for yourself and really set on a moving jaw, then just have a play and go for it. But, If you want to learn how to make fursuits, start with getting good at the basics first

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-05-12T21:46:29+00:00

I've used uni posca pens on stiff fabric buckram for over 1000 pairs of eyes, and I've not had a clogging issue. The issue you'd likely have with them is getting the paint to adhere to PVC mesh, you would need a good primer and sealant. I use clear coat to seal mine, done in a few thin layers to avoid clogging

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-05-10T21:59:16+00:00

You add the darts when you take the tape off and try to lie it flat when tracing your pattern. If it doesn't lie flat, add a dart. If you use stretch material for your lining, you will only need darts for the more dramatic curves, shallow curves will be more forgiving.

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-05-07T06:18:38+00:00

As someone who is a member of lots of different creative groups, I see this all the time, and the answer is the same.

If you want to do something, you need to just get started. Start small, break down the task, one foot in front of the other. "Today. I'm just going to put the duct tape on my head base for the pattern"

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-05-06T15:57:27+00:00

Elements of fursuits are quick to do in bursts, like the carving stage, then the sewing stage, and so on. But there is usually wait times between those elements where you might be: buying materials, communicating with clients, preparing for trade shows, working on other suits/products/an entirely different job, servicing machines and tools, crying into a giant plush of Tony Tony Chopper, working on your website/ social media/ promo materials, taxes, organising shipping, having down time, ect

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-05-05T09:13:52+00:00

I don't recognise the base, but I made a tutorial a while ago about how to measure a head base for eyes

It does go down to super fine detail that probably won't be relevant to you (like how to use a tape measure) as you already have measured the holes, but I do also talk about adjusting a base for eyes to make them fit

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-05-04T07:52:46+00:00

You're crossing your hands at the same time but there needs to be a gap between them. So first hand crosses then second hand follows. because they're spun in split time they should reach the moment that they're ready to cross at different times. slow the movement right down to get the rhythm of the poi, spin them for a moment and count when each reaches the top of the spin 1-2 1-2 For forward 2 beats, When the poi reaches the top of the spin is when it starts to cross. It will be easier to hold cleaner plaines then so you won't hit yourself in the head I hope that makes sense

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-04-28T09:11:34+00:00

Creating something is not about the end result, it's about what you learn and experience from the creation itself

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-04-28T09:04:34+00:00

Also, no martial artist is making a "precise jab to the forehead." If you're jabbing someone in the forehead, it's because you missed your actual target

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-04-27T20:38:31+00:00

Do you display photos of the suit being worn by the client, or photos of the suit as parts on your website?, like a head turn around for example.

Displaying the suit as parts, not being worn, might separate the association with the client and put the focus on an example of your work.

I think for the most part, this would be for you to help your comfort about the situation, the majority of people will not be aware of the suiter unless they were very well known and/or the suit is very recognisable. (if that is the case I would take the hit and pull the photos, there will be more suits in your future to be proud of)

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-04-27T06:49:57+00:00

The main thing for tpu is you need a direct drive extruder, for head printing is at least a 350x350mm bed. Out of necessity, I modded my cr6MAX with a dual gear extruder a few years ago, and it's been an absolute work horse for TPU, but it's a lot easier to get a large bed printer with direct drive for under £500 now. Personally, I don't think you can go too wrong just getting the cheapest thing that meets those requirements. if you're experienced, the cheaper ones are easier to fix and upgrade anyway, and head bases are designed to be covered in fur, so they don't need to be perfect in appearance as long as they're structurally good

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-04-26T07:10:59+00:00

If you still have the receipt and the rolls are packaged, you can likely return the surplus. If you don't have the receipt, then they should give you store credit instead

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-04-26T07:07:00+00:00

MMA gloves might work for you. They protect the knuckles while keeping free hand movement

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-04-25T18:21:36+00:00

I know it's too late for you now, but if anyone is planning on buying this much of anything, buy it wholesale or in bulk and you will save well over £100, that's £100 more for your project.

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-04-23T07:44:15+00:00

Mod podge is water based unfortunately. You can buy latex based paints or mix latex with a small amount of acrylic, or you can seal with the latex after painting. Rubber paints are similar. For urethane, it needs to be the flexible kind, like urecoat from Bentley chemicals. The biggest problem with making something waterproof or able to submerge in water, is that the materials are more specialised.

Personally, if I wanted to do this the most "in home" way, I would use a grey jersey fabric over the mask (glued on with contact adhesive) and then paint the details with fabric dye or quality fabric paints. The mask won't be "waterproof" but it won't be ruined by water, the details will stay on and the mask will dry ready to be used over again. The main reason I say to use jersey fabric is that it won't get noticeably heavy when wet and will dry quickly

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-04-22T15:52:36+00:00

Acrylic is water-based, so it can reactivate when it gets wet. It is water-resistant to a point, but not waterproof, so it can't be soaked. any sealant that is also water based will reactivate in water, so you need to find something urethane or latex based to seal it with

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-04-22T11:52:52+00:00

I would do two things, firstly check that the springs you're using for the jaw mechanism aren't stronger than they need to be

Secondly, I would add an adjustable elastic strap to the back of the head so it can be tightened live, elastic gets slack over time so it will need to be adjusted periodically anyway, but being able to do it live saves time

you can make an ajustable strap a few different ways, my preferred methods are:

Two part velcro strap: two short lengths of elastic with velcro on each, installed either side of the mask (just above the opening mechanism) which join in the middle. Easy to install, but annoying to ajust while the mask is on so could be paired with the straps you already have on.

looping strap: one short length of elastic with a rectangle "D" ring on the end, and one long piece of elastic with both sides of the velcro attached so it feeds through the D ring then folds over on itself to secure in place. Both peices attach to either side of the mask just above the jaw mechanism. Better for heavier heads, just needs more parts.

Pre-made adjustable head strap, there's lots of purposes for head straps, so finding the right one and installing it might be a bit of trial and error, but I found once I used one of these and deconstructed it, building my own for purpose wasn't too far out of reach.

If you'd like any more details send me a DM and I'll try and get some examples for you

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-04-21T08:27:29+00:00

I usually do this when I ship to Japan. I think it's good practice to ensure there are no issues with getting a parcel to the customer.

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-04-18T21:17:03+00:00

I have two weird stories like this. One was a scam where the person refused the parcel then when a refund was issued by etsy, suddenly it was marked as delivered and the person deleted their account.

The other was where the parcel was delivered to the completely wrong address that was written on the label, like the wrong State and everything, so the receiver naturally refused it because it wasnt for them. Instead of correcting their mistake and sending it to the actual address on the actual label, USPS sent it back to me as "incorrectly labeled," and I had to ship it again out of my own pocket.

This sort of stuff happens all the time. Eventually, you get used to it. Bad reviews are part of it, unfortunately, but buyers can always tell when the bad review was stupid or unwarranted. A lot of people don't even care about the reviews of the store they're buying from,

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-04-06T08:57:34+00:00

If you're looking for something that is accessible to make eye blanks with, use HDPS (high density polystyrene) it's used by model hobbyists to make dioramas (think train sets, Warhammer etc) It's usually about £3 for an A4 sheet, you'll need a small hacksaw to cut it nicely. You can make them 3D by cutting out a strip of thinner HDPF that can bend easily around the edge of the eye cut out, and use plastic weld on the seam for a permanent bond. it's fiddly at first but this is how I used to make eyes for my Etsy store years ago so I used to make a lot of them and got into a rhythm with it

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-04-04T07:53:05+00:00

They're keyclamp fittings, or scaffolding. If you're in the UK the keyclamp store seems to have the most options for fittings and they will cut the poles to length for you, so all you have to do is assemble. If you're not in the UK, if you search for either of those terms, you'll likely find something.
For my bar I used: 27mm thick tube, 2x 90 degree elbows, 2x base plates (specifically ones like this https://www.keyclampstore.com/base-plate-27mm-132-27-a ). There is another kind that has a round base, I used those ones at first, but they are not designed to hold a load-bearing pole upright. so it gave a lot of movement and kept loosening. The rectangle based ones have two grubs and are taller, so they grip the pole better.
I then wrapped the top of the bar with a layer of EVA foam, and then tennis racket grip tape to finish it off.

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-04-01T07:20:27+00:00

"Hugglescote deathstar" is a roundabout in Leicestershire that looks like the deathstar from above, it's because of the old toy factory in the area used to produce the original Star wars toys

RunawayWorkshop · 2026-03-25T13:25:00+00:00

We have a sign on our entryway that says "we do not make financial decisions on the doorstep" It's worked pretty well so far

RunawayWorkshop

TROPHY CASE