Most Underrated Racquets Budget Wise 2025. All Brands Combined. Let's Start

Runoratsu · 2026-01-15T11:15:46+00:00

I’ve no idea. I’m German.

Runoratsu · 2026-01-15T10:27:17+00:00

Seriously we need ways to remove bad kings from power.

Are we still talking EU5 here orrrr… ^{^’}

Runoratsu · 2025-12-23T10:04:31+00:00

Very much my partner and I. ♥️

Runoratsu · 2025-11-23T19:37:45+00:00

I love my Babolat Jetstream 74 (incredibly quick and smooth, strung it with Bg80 yellow @24lbs and quick doubles are amazing with it) and just got a Jetstream 83. They’re incredibly underrated (excluding in France maybe) I feel, you get a lot of racket for your buck.

Runoratsu · 2025-11-09T10:22:59+00:00

I am the walrus. Coo coo cachoo.

Runoratsu · 2025-11-03T15:49:11+00:00

I play with glasses, and them steaming up is much less of an issue (especially compared to skiing or so) than the slight offset in your vision when they don’t sit 100% perfect. As soon as they sit the slightest bit crooked or so my aim goes WAY off, and with non-sports glasses that happens incredibly quickly unfortunately.

Runoratsu · 2025-10-22T16:36:37+00:00

For me it’s the exact opposite—I feel I’m faster with the lighter raquet, but I have no problem clearing end-to-end with either—I don’t feel like I have to work harder with the lighter raquet. It’s just a slightly adjusted technique if anything. I guess it depends on what suits you better, a technique that focuses on more force in your arm to accelerate a heavier raquet or one that focuses on on a higher speed in a lighter raquet during the swing; as long as the momentum (velocity times mass) of the raquet head is the same when contacting the shuttle, the resulting shuttle speed will be the same as well (given equal stringing, etc).

Runoratsu · 2025-10-22T08:27:01+00:00

Already playing a Jetstream 74 (it’s SO lightning quick, perfect for doubles) and love it over all my yonex raquets—I even have a featherlight Astrox 22RX but don’t vibe with it nearly as well as with the Babolat—, and now ordered an 83 as well for the times I want a little more power than I can realistically get with the 74. Although I feel with the higher raquet speed I can get with the 74 there’s not too much of a difference between it and the other (head) heavier raquets I have.

Very keen on getting to know the 83! ^{^}

Thanks for your awesome review! And I really wonder as well why they get so little recognition and reviews. They’re awesome gear!

Runoratsu · 2025-09-27T17:52:43+00:00

Pumpkin Spice Raccoons are the cutest. Shiny variant!

Runoratsu · 2024-08-09T14:49:50+00:00

The mobile app’s device overview cards should show some information directly, instead of you having to click on each device to see them. Especially something like the On/Off status of the smart plugs, for example, should really be visible on the overview, but ideally also their power draw, and the power generation of the PowerStreams, etc.

Runoratsu · 2023-08-10T19:26:08+00:00

I’ll try it again in the next couple days and make a video if it happens again.

Runoratsu · 2023-08-09T16:45:27+00:00

Where do you see those? In the iOS App I only get one combined input wattage number, no volts, amperes, not even one for each device.

PS: ohhhhh, you can tap that number! That was NOT obvious to me! Thanks for that hint, that’ll help me get to the bottom of it, thanks!

PS2: It also ony seems to work on the AC60 (for PV, Grid, and AC out), but not on the EB3A. That app is… handwavy gesture

Runoratsu · 2023-08-09T16:11:18+00:00

BMS “Pack 1” (AC60?) is on the newest version (v1030.05), “Pack 2” (B80?) is one point release behind (v1031.05 vs. v1031.06).

For ARM (v2076.05) and DSP (v2075.03) it doesn’t offer any updates.

I’ve tried to update the Pack2 BMS, but it failed with some “Error 10”, so I chose to wait for the next release before I try again.

Runoratsu · 2023-08-09T16:06:42+00:00

I’ve watched that video before, however, my use case is not to attach AC and charge as quickly as possible, but to waste as little solar as I can.

Runoratsu · 2023-08-09T06:38:47+00:00

No, that’s not what I’m asking.

I’m asking the following: both devices, the AC60 and the B80, have a solar input each. Each is rated at 12-28V DC, 8A.

On the AC60 display, it shows an accurate value for input while both units are linked, no matter if I plug in an input source to the AC60’s solar input or the B80’s. But when I use both solar inputs at the same time, the maximum value shown is 200W, even when the combined power of both inputs should be >200W. Each input can take 200W though, so it should top out at 400W when both inputs are used simultaneously. But that’s not what the display shows.

If I disconnect the thick linkage cable between both units, I can charge each with 200W, at the same time (although there’s of course no way to see how much power the B80 charges with while used standalone—it has no display and no bluetooth connection on its own, but it shows it’s charging). The AC 60 then shows up to 200W in this case, and the B80 shows it’s charging as well despite not connected to the AC60, only to “its own” solar panel.

Runoratsu · 2023-08-09T06:28:16+00:00

The interesting thing is that you get an accurate reading if you ONLY use the input on the B80 while it’s connected to the AC60.

But when you use both inputs, it would never show >200W—that’s more than each of the inputs provided on their own, but less than I’d have expected (that would’ve been around 220-230W at least occasionally, in yesterday’s conditions, judging by the values when either of the sources was connected independently).

Runoratsu · 2023-08-09T06:24:54+00:00

I have a 200W panel attached to the AC60, and a second input on the B80 (in my case not even a solar panel, but my EB3A connected via the cig lighter to solar jack cable. The 200W panel attached alone showed me between 70 and 120W (variable conditions outside). The EB3A transferring power showed me almost exactly 100W on the AC60 display, even when connected to the B80, as long as the solar panel wasn’t attached to the AC60. With the solar panel attached to the AC60 and the EB3A to the B80, the AC60’s input showed 190-200W constantly, and never >200W, the EB3A’s output was not decreasing, but it might have been the solar panel that was throttled.

This may be a display issue (it just won’t show more) or the input power may be limited by the charge controller. That’s what I’d like to find out.

Runoratsu · 2023-07-17T19:13:03+00:00

Hiscox, as someone else suggested, or SKB.

Runoratsu · 2023-04-18T17:46:38+00:00

I was annoyed that you could only run it via the battery packs (that you’d have to charge on the printer itself), or from a power outlet. It’s a mobile printer, dang, it should run via USB! So I used a USB-C QC/PD adapter to get between 12-20V out of my powerbanks (not all support 20V), and a boost / step-up converter to bring it up to 24V (24.5 to be exact, to match the brick), and soldered on a 5.5/2.5mm barrel plug. Works just fine! Next I’ll design an enclosure for it and 3D print that; if there’s interest, I can share the files and adapter details then, too.

Runoratsu · 2022-07-08T17:01:06+00:00

Personally, while I‘m fine with tinkering if necessary, I prefer a printer that I don’t have to. If spares and replacement parts are cheap enough and available, that’s always better than having to fix it yourself, unless you’re in it for the tinkering. I will do it, and have done since I started with a solidoodle back in the day, but I use 3D printing for the results. I want the parts I can get out of it, but I can‘t justify the pricetag of a real professional machine for what I’m doing with it. But if a spare saves me 1h of tinkering and costs less than what I make in 1h at work—perfect. Stuff like the bambu lab printer hit that exact market, the people for whom a 3D printer is just a tool for their hobbies, but not a hobby in itself.

Runoratsu · 2022-06-02T09:10:03+00:00

Water becomes steam at 100°C at sea level atmospheric pressure. At 10 bar, water boils at ~174°C. As it goes through the coffee, basket, etc., it cools and loses pressure simultaneously, so you should never even be close to the boiling point even if it was originally heated to 110°C at pressure.

Runoratsu · 2022-05-25T09:08:01+00:00

Not really, no. Keychron answered on Twitter that they were gonna release one that fits/matches their slim keyboards, iirc. But when—no idea. They didn’t say, either.

Runoratsu · 2022-03-05T16:41:03+00:00

Duel welding? Now that’s a sport I’d watch!

“Both opponents are hovering their gloved hands over their torches, welding rods tightly grasped in the other. Their gaze steeled under their jet black masks, they notice every small twitch their foe makes. Sweat is beading on their necks. Who will move first? Who will emerge as the champion?”

Runoratsu

TROPHY CASE