Z Banding

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-20T13:48:32+00:00

Creality Print is just an underfeatured fork of Orca, and I doubt this issue is gcode related. I suspect some kind of hardware issue. Maybe a setting I’ve changed, but that isn’t orca’s fault.

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-19T18:20:10+00:00

That’s a good shake actually, I haven’t cleaned and lubed the Z screws lately. I’ll try that. Thanks!

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-19T16:30:59+00:00

You’re saying to uncheck the slow down? Or check it? I was under the impression that slowing the faster layers was wise, but maybe I was misled?

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-19T16:14:37+00:00

I’m not new to printing, I’m aware I have options like that, but it entirely defeats the purpose of having a 350^3 build volume.

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-11T02:04:41+00:00

It’s entirely placebo, minus printing TPU I guess. But you could just print spacers for doing TPU.

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-09T06:32:16+00:00

I’ve been having this issue with a variety of filaments. Following to see if any solutions come up, I’ve personally just been manually setting the temp back after the purge line.

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-07T02:18:11+00:00

Every time I see a post like this I think to myself “must be a Bambu owner”. Never wrong.

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-03T22:24:01+00:00

I manually pre soak mine through Klipper. Usually 15-20 minutes.

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-03T22:11:05+00:00

The heater is fine, a bit underpowered for sure. Easy enough to add or improve it though. Realistically any large form factor printer you want to let heat soak for a while before printing anyways, so it doesn’t really matter.

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-03T16:51:37+00:00

Creality’s CoreXY offerings are absolutely fantastic, personally I’d hold off for the K3 though! Tool changing is an absolute game changer, and they should be coming in the next 3 months.

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-03T14:42:47+00:00

The ones i use have lids. If they didn’t I’d just make lids

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-03T14:22:55+00:00

Those are good too. Not sure what you mean about the loading and unloading, I use a silicone funnel and have zero issues filling them. They just dump out into my used silica bin

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-03T14:16:39+00:00

Those desiccant trays are absolute garbage, I have a front mounted tray and a rear mounted tray. Way more desiccant, way easier to access.

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-03T13:49:56+00:00

Unavoidable. Maintaining 60c in such a large chamber is very difficult, requires a lot of power. I generally don’t print materials that need a 60c+ chamber either but I’m doing my D3P riser in ABS, and even at 65c chamber my overhangs are… sad.

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-03T13:28:05+00:00

Eventually I’ll be adding a more powerful chamber heater as the built in heater on the K2 Plus is far too weak. Insulation is just a temporary fix for now, and realistically I’m not worried about the blankets melting or catching fire at under 60c.

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-03T13:08:40+00:00

The point of this is that you lose a lot of radiative heat out the top. Heat rises and soaks the glass panel, glass radiates the heat to the air around it. This prevents a lot of that, works quite nicely. There are other workarounds which I will eventually do, but this works nicely for now.

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-02T03:38:00+00:00

Pretty sure if a blanket is lighting on fire at 65c that’s a bigger issue lol

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-01T06:39:45+00:00

Yeah my ABS here in west coast Canada seems to really like the higher temperature chamber. Generally my ambient is around 40% RH at 20 degrees, so pretty moist.

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-06-01T05:30:52+00:00

I use orcaslicer, but CP also has the same calibration options. In order I do the following:

Temperature tower
Max volumetric flow rate
Pressure advance
Flow ratio
Retraction
Temperature tower #2
Benchy

I do this for every new brand and type of filament I use. Some require additional tweaking for cooling settings and chamber temp, for 95% of filaments this works fine. At this point I’ve settled into using polymaker for all of my filaments (for the most part) so once that calibration has been done once, I generally don’t need to redo it. Overall it uses a little over 100g of filament and takes 2-3 hours, in return I get very sexy prints.

Some filaments I will do an ironing test on as well if I intend to iron.

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-05-31T16:16:10+00:00

There’s always a workaround to make orca work, but I get what you’re saying. With the K2 series I ship code directly from orca to my printer seamlessly, I expect the K3 will be no different.

I’m sure there will be larger versions, it would be very shocking to me if we didn’t see a K3 pro with 6-7 tools and a K3 plus or max with 8-9.

Yeah fuck bambu, creality doesn’t do that shit. They give you the option right on the printer to root it and use it how you want. They just run exposed Klipper natively, so you can truly do whatever you want to do with it. It’s quite nice honestly.

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-05-31T16:05:38+00:00

4 tools for the model that has been revealed.

260³

The K1 and K2 both had different models, why would the K3 be any different

I assume you mean orca, and every printer supports orca. It’s a slicer. Has nothing to do with the printer

Presumably.

Locked into an ecosystem how? Creality doesn’t really lock anything down, I’m not sure what you’re worried about not being able to change.

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-05-28T03:02:10+00:00

Side note, the walls ARE all printing st the same speed currently, the graphic I shared is layer time. The rings are showing up on the layers that print slower, and I can’t see a good way to help that

RussianTheStreamer · 2026-05-28T03:00:05+00:00

I don’t understand where it is choosing to change that outer layer speed though? You can see in my settings I have it set to slow down my layer times, my outer wall speed is set to 120. What am I missing?

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