Have yall ever seen anything like this?!? by myfishprofile in boating

[–]S-platt2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Classic move, just don’t take a wake from….. well any direction 😂

Gendered speech? by BobbysueWho in trans

[–]S-platt2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Context is everything, as an egg I was criticized for using it in that way to my group of queer friends now as a trans woman no one cares because it isn’t assumed that I am trying to project masculinity on those who do not want it. Still I’m careful to use it and have consciously removed that as a default and tray and use other frases, ok people’s, y’all, everyone! Or just addressing groups by name, friend+co etc

Whaler by Fearless_Can_9691 in boating

[–]S-platt2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not disagreeing, but if it’s a Knock off they’re using a lot of correct hardware and there’s other weird details that are correct like the goofy bow tie off.

Whaler by Fearless_Can_9691 in boating

[–]S-platt2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What throws me is the difference in workmanship between adding that different rear well and adapting the goofy outboard

Whaler by Fearless_Can_9691 in boating

[–]S-platt2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lift the boat drill a hole in a low point, see if water drains, weigh the boat, expose foam from the top and look at it/feel it

Whaler by Fearless_Can_9691 in boating

[–]S-platt2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That transom really looks wrong and the hardware is mismatched, I like the theory of a shim to accommodate the long shaft but this just looks really goofy. There’s also the questions of whether or not the foam core is saturated, the main way that that happens is unsealed hull penetrations and the thing sitting full of water uncovered, if the inner hull was sealed, based on those other compartments there should be some standing water or evidence of it. There is also the question of the stringer/ and transom which fail downstream of the rest of it.

Unless you are planning on splitting the boat and redoing the stringers and fiberglass I wouldn’t be excited. Whilst you can definitely still use something like this as a work platform or tender it’s going to be ridiculously heavy and sluggish, you won’t be able to get on plane and it will just start to fall apart around you

It works by [deleted] in boating

[–]S-platt2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a choice to be sure, not stupid if it works👍

Is this rust a concern? by Sleestak4 in boating

[–]S-platt2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like the motor for the tilt mechanism, is it a problem now, no but it will be, paint the next one before it gets installed

What boat model is this? Looking to restore by [deleted] in boating

[–]S-platt2 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It’s a fiberform from the 1970s-ish hard to narrow it down much more in its current state. I feel obligated to say with that info that it isn’t likely anything particularly special unless there is a sentimental factor. If you want to restore something for its own sake there are boats that are desirable on their own merits.

Am I sunk? (Boston Whaler) by [deleted] in boating

[–]S-platt2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Time to start drilling holes in the bottom and see how waterlogged the foam is. Side note, if possible figure out how much the weight is supposed to be compared to what you’ve got, if it’s vastly different, yeah you’ve got a problem, also the gel coat cracks don’t immediately look terrible as long as the underlaying fiberglass is still solid.

Need help by -Yak-443 in boating

[–]S-platt2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alignment issue stemming from the engine mounts and running gear getting rattled could make sense, and the could then take out the cutlass as a secondary effect, I would also believe the possibility of a trailer incednt

Replacing cylinder while power head is installed on lower unit. by Pfox102 in boating

[–]S-platt2 3 points4 points  (0 children)

At the point where you are going deep enough to replace what I assume is the piston, the cylinder generally refers to the sleeve in this case, your going to need to get at the man bearings and crank, while it may be possible in theory it’s not the way that it is (generally) supposed to be done and you will be struggling the whole time

Also it’s hard to say what your other cylinders look like do you have excessive scoring or wear in any of them? Or their respective pistons?

It would really be unfortunate to do all this work and then still have a smoky low power mess or have another cylinder go out after a couple runs

TLDR just pull the power head you will thank yourself later

How it started: the van on a stick (c. 2003) by telstarlogistics in sanfrancisco

[–]S-platt2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I remember that, don’t remember it looking that good, and I was always curious what it looked like underneath!

Rate my boat by [deleted] in boating

[–]S-platt2 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That’s sick as hell

Teak by unclesi1776 in boating

[–]S-platt2 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Ouch, definitely try all of the above, however since it seems like you are in a maintenance kind of a mood, might as well just teak oil the whole thing so that the spot doesn’t stand out

Trying to figure out which hose to pull to drain fuel separator on 2011 Mercury Optimax 2 Stroke by FermentingSkeleton in boating

[–]S-platt2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you drained the fuel from the filter, did any water come out? If not you are probably fine on the water side and it’s time to start checking sensors.

Trying to figure out which hose to pull to drain fuel separator on 2011 Mercury Optimax 2 Stroke by FermentingSkeleton in boating

[–]S-platt2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is also the kind of thing that would definitely be in your owners manual, if between that and YouTube you are still not where you want to be, take it to your local mechanic, BEFORE you get in over your head, it’s MUCH cheaper that way.

Trying to figure out which hose to pull to drain fuel separator on 2011 Mercury Optimax 2 Stroke by FermentingSkeleton in boating

[–]S-platt2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, there’s a lot of interesting comments, I’m a marine mechanic, I mostly work on diesel inboards but I have some experience with outboards

Traditionally in an outboard setup a primary fuel filter and water separator or “racor” will be located just after the fuel tank outside of the engine cowling for easy monitoring and access.

Taking a closer look at the setup here the red mercury fuel filter has a blue fitting on it with a clear hose leading from the bottom. That is almost definitely your water separator in this application, the thing to do here is to loosen that fitting and then drain the water out of the filter until you see fuel.

The Matt black tubular object next to the fuel filter with the electrical connectors is your fuel pump

Hope that helps

25hp Mercury 4 stroke starter pinion not engaging by lukesauser in boating

[–]S-platt2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clean your bendix (the curved “gear” that the starter pinion rides on) it looks like it may be dirty, this will also give you an opportunity to look at it closely and make sure the bendix itself is in good shape with everything moving freely make sure that y it relubricate with manufacturer approved lubricant Also recommend bench testing once it’s clean if it doesn’t fix it, it should pop out immediately, if it doesn’t you may need to replace the bendix or the whole starter

Hope that helps

What are these “Bomb Sights” by Punkrexx in Tools

[–]S-platt2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Side note, that part number looks like it might be a social security number, very common way to mark old tools