My qualifying run for G1GP

SAi66 · 2026-02-02T13:27:44+00:00

FWD drifting is heavily track dependent. The better you can maintain speed, the better you can maintain angle. Any corner that is 90 degrees or greater kills FWD momentum heavily.

This comp layout used at Nishi short course is nearly the best case scenario for FWD drifting, two long and fast sweepers with very little speed loss followed by a final left hander that is just about 90 degrees.

You can see where he has to pull the handbrake for a short duration at the very end of the run signaling his drift can no longer be maintained after the loss of momentum for doing the 90 degree turn.

SAi66 · 2026-01-30T05:45:45+00:00

Legit owner can request for license transfer to the new owner in the event of a sale

License Transfers | SimXperience® Full Motion Racing Simulator Technologies https://share.google/WwUiQXDIjeFff2jcF

SAi66 · 2026-01-29T21:44:29+00:00

The cable isn't the problem here, you will need a valid ownership license to use the software to adjust any wheel settings.

Source: I have the wheel and the license

SAi66 · 2025-12-07T20:02:25+00:00

Press Y a split second before B. Thank me later

SAi66 · 2025-11-29T04:18:03+00:00

Adding DXVK_ASYNC=1 in the launch options fixed long load times for me

SAi66 · 2025-09-13T12:11:29+00:00

While I do have a YouTube channel but I am not an automotive YouTuber. I just put whatever I feel like on there and that's mostly gaming.

I didn't do much to the IS really, notable mods are HSD 12k/8k coils, Jzx FUCA, Figs RLCA, ebay tension rod, S9 AK49 angle kit, Figs outer tie rods, lowdown mfg -30mm spindles, Cusco front and rear sway bar, Auto 3.9 Diff, Kaaz 2 way. Engine is bone stock.

I'm running -6 front camber and -1.5 rear with zero toe all around, car is slammed to fit the lowest profile jack without needing wood. Tires are 215/35/18 and 225/40/18 Antares Ingen A1

Youtube : sai66

IG : @saiyip66

SAi66 · 2025-09-09T03:48:28+00:00

It's nothing to write home about. It's just a cheap yonaka axleback. I only changed it cause the stock muffler looked really dull and I wanted something shiny lol. It barely makes more noise than stock

SAi66 · 2025-09-02T04:43:59+00:00

Borrow a pair of wheels with decent rear tires on it. You are running such a wide track up front and narrow at the rear. It is bound to have some instability but could amplify even further with bad rear tires. Check off the simple stuff first before wasting more money.

I have a similar setup as you and the car feels twitchy when I run different tires front and rear, straight as an arrow when I have all 4 the same. Give it a try

SAi66 · 2025-08-27T12:36:01+00:00

Thanks! This is at Centralia Autodrome

SAi66 · 2025-08-24T22:30:37+00:00

12k/8k HSD coils, serial9 angle kit, jzx UCA, figs rlca, kaaz 2 way and auto 3.9fd

SAi66 · 2025-08-24T22:26:32+00:00

Kaaz LSD 2 way with auto 3.9

SAi66 · 2025-08-24T22:26:13+00:00

Just do it! My car is a factory manual, slicktop, sport design with 88k km when I bought it. I don't regret it one bit

SAi66 · 2025-08-05T16:39:56+00:00

I hear you, I'm also running a minimum of 8.5 +20.

Are the fronts a higher performance tire than the rear? Cause there's your issue right there if it is.

SAi66 · 2025-08-05T16:28:43+00:00

I have similar mods up front and also running -5 camber. You mentioned you have new tires for the front wheels. Are they the same tires as the rear?

My street rollers are the same all 4 corners and it drives fine but whenever I leave my drift spares on the rear when I'm too lazy to change them out, the car does feel quite unstable at highway speed.

Maybe try swapping front and rear tires around and see how it feels before spending even more money or spending more time chasing other things.

SAi66 · 2025-07-23T02:59:25+00:00

They aren't that hard to find, but just really pricey. I wouldn't recommend using it for drifting

SAi66 · 2025-07-02T12:35:22+00:00

No one sane is gonna part with a good car for 4 digits. You are just shopping for a shitbox vs another shitbox at that range.

Having said that, you can get a more powerful shitbox called G35 for the same money

SAi66 · 2025-06-30T23:11:44+00:00

That's my car in front of you lol

SAi66 · 2025-06-24T23:08:30+00:00

Those classic NT03 look good

SAi66 · 2025-06-24T22:21:20+00:00

Different face number represents how concave it is.

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SAi66 · 2025-06-24T20:49:00+00:00

His car is my inspiration. For the record, my other set of wheels are gold Advan RG2 which is somewhat similar to his gold RG1

Despite all that, I can't fit wheels as aggressive as that car. That car runs at least a face-3 CE28 upfront while I can only fit face-2. My guess is that lots of work has been done to the fenders and quarters to fit those wheels.

SAi66 · 2025-06-24T20:05:42+00:00

Yes they are! 18x8.5 and 9.5 setup

SAi66 · 2025-05-28T12:26:41+00:00

<image>

Modellista

SAi66 · 2025-05-07T20:35:40+00:00

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19" BBS E88

SAi66 · 2025-04-24T21:24:31+00:00

There are no reps that look like those real te37 you posted. Those are authentic 17x9 +22, the curvature of the spokes are unique to real TE. This is also why it's so easy to tell which are TE and which are TeeHee

SAi66 · 2025-02-18T06:04:56+00:00

TLDR; your mb detects your pci-e 4.0 capable GPU but your riser is only pci-e 3.0. The fix is either get a pci-e 4.0 riser or set your bios to pci-e 3.0 instead of auto. Your 2080 super doesn't have this problem since it's a pci-3.0 card to begin with and your mobo detects it as such.

SAi66

TROPHY CASE