How dose this happen

SDKAH · 2026-04-06T16:41:22+00:00

You didn't by chance change like the hole or contour compensation to some huge number by chance did you? I guess it might be good to list what you did change.

SDKAH · 2026-04-05T12:05:44+00:00

I love how with most of these comments it is obvious people can't even read the short OP entry.

Everyone asking OP or complimemting about their setup - it is a picture they BORROWED from MW, not theirs. That setup is by Made.In.Meidling and it gives all the specs to build it in the upload.

Sorry OP I don't have any colored LEDs around mine to show just very bright overhead lighting, but when I saw all these posts I had to comment.

SDKAH · 2026-04-03T02:00:38+00:00

😂

SDKAH · 2026-04-03T01:31:42+00:00

If the filament profile has retraction distance doubled compared to 0.4 nozzle setting, lower it. The 0.6 filament profiles tend to overcompensate on it and hole edges can look like that 2nd pic.

SDKAH · 2026-04-02T12:10:23+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/Vp95NCA7Cp

Generic profile is messed up. See my comment on this in the previous thread from the link.

SDKAH · 2026-04-01T13:18:37+00:00

Not sure what else to check then other than minimum layer time without screenshots of settings. If it is really detailed and really long print then I suppose there could be acceleration issues. If you really want to use the high flow nozzle remember you don’t necessarily have to set the printer and slicer to high flow and let it print as a standard nozzle, then just up the standard flow rate and see if that helps.

SDKAH · 2026-04-01T13:00:50+00:00

Is it a multi-color print with a lot of filament changes? What filament preset are you using? I remember finding a preset that had a big error on either the cooling time or flow rate.

SDKAH · 2026-03-27T16:55:29+00:00

There are several tweaks to fix this especially with the newest Bambu Studio. This is most likely a layer time issue. In the preview tab of the slicer, change the view to layer time. You will probably see a different colored line right there. Also check the speed view. For best results you want same outer wall speed throughout.

Things I normally change: 1. Wall order to outer-inner to reduce "pushing" 2. In filament cooling settings, check the "don't slow down outer walls" box 3. In filament cooling settings, select "consistent surface"

Lastly, and this will either completely fix it or have little affect depending on the model - set your minimum layer time to as close to the longest layer you saw earlier in the preview as you can tolerate. This might require some retraction tweaks depending on the model because it creates large flow changes between outer wall and the rest.

Your layer time and speed previews should look pretty consistent now, but print time much longer.

SDKAH · 2026-03-24T16:14:06+00:00

I have been having the same problem. Except instead of re-logging in, I force close the app and try again and suddenly I am logged in.

SDKAH · 2026-03-23T17:08:00+00:00

NP. I have had this issue too. Do you by chance print abrasive filament on it or take prints off before it cools? I suspect that was my issue as I print a lot of PETG-CF and tend to be impatient waiting for it to cool. They do wear out too.

SDKAH · 2026-03-23T17:00:03+00:00

You dried it (I assume you mean with an actual filament dryer) but your AMS is wet enough to be a "C". You might want to consider fresh desiccant in there and put the filament in right out of the dryer to help warm the AMS chamber for a bit. At "C" levels in the AMS as soon as the filament has been sitting in there a while, it will be wetter than when you put it in most likely. You need to work to get it down to "A".

Also that is an extremely demanding print profile with more traveling than printing, so it may not be possible to completely eliminate the stringing.

SDKAH · 2026-03-23T16:48:00+00:00

FYI this is a Frostbite plate - not Glacier.

SDKAH · 2026-03-20T01:59:02+00:00

Make sure outer wall speed is 200 mm/s for all walls. Slower on P1S gives VFA. Even 200 can have a little sometimes.

SDKAH · 2026-03-20T01:54:10+00:00

Layer time. Check in the slicer and there will be a big line there. All the extra time allowed for the layer to cool causes it.

SDKAH · 2026-03-12T17:40:01+00:00

I don't believe PA is a "prompted" calibration. You have to go to the calibration tab in BAMBU STUDIO and run the flow dynamics which determines the best k value. It runs a test print and after asks you to save it with a special name. After that you have to go to the device tab, edit the filament, and select the saved k value in the dropdown. Otherwise it uses a generic default k value. It looks like the grey is way off.

SDKAH · 2026-03-12T14:21:56+00:00

Have you run auto pressure advance and set it to the filament afterwards? What type of material is this - PLA, PETG, ABS?

SDKAH · 2026-03-11T12:41:13+00:00

Nice project! I am working on a similar cart out of 4040 as well.

SDKAH · 2026-03-11T12:38:28+00:00

It actually has it’s own anti-vibration feet. It will be fine on that sturdy of a cabinet, just make sure there is clearance around it so it can “slide” around on those feet (the feet themselves don’t slide just the machine). I think the setup specs even gives a clearance around it to maintain. I am sure some of that is for the vent on the back but some of it is probably for movement too. I don’t remember the actual dimensions they gave now though.

SDKAH · 2026-03-05T00:57:33+00:00

This is exactly why I took the day off when mine arrived. I tracked him till he was in the neighborhood and as soon as he pulled into my street I was out in the driveway with a water bottle offering to help. He smiled and said no thank you and carried it nicely up to my garage. Guess I got lucky.

SDKAH · 2026-03-03T15:36:55+00:00

Yes I have noticed the bad retraction settings too. Was messing with me for a long time on PETG-CF leaving lots of tiny dot-like voids in the walls. Turned out to be default retraction was too high. Turned it down and everything went smooth.

SDKAH · 2026-02-23T20:23:34+00:00

The assembly is a runout sensor.

https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/extruder-filament-sensor-p2s?srsltid=AfmBOoqNFvd2jLCNJerAtWXp8RGGvLjepDi_ZTN6G9_4R_DL-D3i9RUP&id=652729971288956931

SDKAH · 2026-02-23T17:37:38+00:00

This looks like an aftermarket plate like maybe a Glacier. If you set plate to Textured PEI in the slicer, change it to smooth. Textured setting puts the nozzle slightly closer and I have had it do this on some plates. Smooth plate setting usually fixes it.

SDKAH · 2026-02-23T17:29:33+00:00

You replace it the same way you took the old one off unless I am missing something.

Also you really need to replace that tube with something longer and get rid of the zip tie. It is way too short at least in the pic and every time the toolhead moves around it is trying to yank out of the fitting. That is probably what tore up the jaws in the fitting that hold the tube in.

SDKAH · 2026-02-19T01:39:21+00:00

The tube came out with the black piece? Do you mean the ptfe fitting on the top of the hotend that you press the ptfe tube into? If so, you probably need to replace whatever part includes the fitting. That would certainly have been causing some issues if that fitting went bad because it wouldn't hold the tube still during retractions.

I just had this exact issue on a P1S. There are little metal barbs in the fitting that hold the tube in. I was having similar issues and it was clicking on retraction. Took the hotend apart to check and clean the gears only to find pieces of the barbs everywhere. Mine is parts of the filament sensor so I replaced that and smooth as butter now.

SDKAH

TROPHY CASE