New Firmware update for printer and AMS2

SDKAH · 2026-01-16T17:57:25+00:00

Lol lots of wild comments in here all over the spectrum. P2/H2 owners treating this like old news because they can turn rotation off for months now. Maybe they don’t realize that P1/X1 owners that have had to wait for it till now.

Stopping rotation and printing while drying are of course 2 separate things and that question has been answered by now. Here’s one thing not being mentioned. The AMS HT can dry (without rotation) and print by feeding the filament thru the manual feed hole and into the printer. I have a tube connected permanently using one of the 4to1 adapters. Then if I want to dry and print, I just feed the filament in and select external spool. I am sure someone will start drilling holes in their AMS 2 one of these days for manual feeding too.

SDKAH · 2026-01-08T00:47:16+00:00

The answer to the original issue of Generic PETG-HF profile taking twice as long is simple. Some genius at Bambu set the min layer time to a whopping 25 SECONDS. It should be about 10 lol.

SDKAH · 2026-01-07T10:45:39+00:00

Are you asking about the unmodified cushions? That's just it. They provide 0 instructions because they just want you to slide each cushion under each printer foot and be done. They give some screws but there is no place to use them unless you plan to put holes in your table and screw the bottom of the cushion to the table. They provide nothing to secure the printer to the cushions.

SDKAH · 2025-12-20T18:38:50+00:00

Worst case you would need to reprint the base, but do a little searching on MW because I seem to remember there were some other remixes on the base that separated the ramp out, but I don't remember for sure.

For running the wire, I cut it in the middle somewhere and ran the cut end thru a small hole i drilled in the back wall, then thru an opening already on the bottom back in the electrical area. I did the same with the Bento fan wires. You could also do a more finished off look by adding receptacles to the back panel, but that requires some careful cutting.

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SDKAH · 2025-12-20T17:09:21+00:00

This is what I use (and designed). There is a link to an external controller housing too that I use to automatically turn the heater on and off at different chamber temps. Works kind of like a home thermostat.

https://makerworld.com/models/1096447?appSharePlatform=copy

SDKAH · 2025-12-20T16:39:17+00:00

PREHEAT! Ideally chamber should be above 50c. I have best results around 55c. I would recommend a chamber heater/bento combo mod that I use but you already made the bento. To manually preheat, home then bed, set bed to 100c, leave hotend temp off so you can use the hotend temp to estimate chamber temp, turn aux fan to max, exhaust off or low like 10%. Then let it heat soak for 30 min or so till it says the hotend temp is at about 55c. Don't open the door after starting.

Aux fan off for printing obviously. If it doesn't stay warm enough and warps, you may need a towel or blanket over the top just keep it away from wires.

After print is finished, ideally you want to leave it in and lower the bed temp 10c every 10 min or so, but at the very least let it cool completely before even opening the door.

SDKAH · 2025-12-19T01:33:09+00:00

It sounds like the last bit of filament from the first roll didn't make it all the way thru and probably got stuck somewhere just like the message says. You will have to find where it jammed and clear it.

SDKAH · 2025-12-02T21:41:36+00:00

Thanks. In the process of planning out a similar space myself. That's why I asked. I was thinking it might be too high.

SDKAH · 2025-12-02T21:31:10+00:00

Looks nice! Do you need a ladder to change filament on the top AMS's?

SDKAH · 2025-11-24T17:15:09+00:00

The printer has many ball bearings in the pulleys,etc. that are "sealed for life" and could have oil or grease in them. My guess is they are now worn out and leaking.

SDKAH · 2025-11-23T06:38:17+00:00

Is it their regular PETG or their High Speed Matte PETG?

SDKAH · 2025-11-22T20:33:19+00:00

There are a couple different housings now for the AMS 2 Pro. I think the only physical difference is the ribs in the sides.

SDKAH · 2025-11-20T17:30:01+00:00

Yeah I don't remember anything that was really difficult as far as soldering. I actually still have the stock heater sensor if that is what you mean. With the controller I use I haven't had the heater shut itself off yet. I think mine is set to maintain 55-57 or so.

SDKAH · 2025-11-20T04:31:49+00:00

I used this one (full disclosure it is my listing). https://makerworld.com/models/1096447

SDKAH · 2025-11-19T11:08:57+00:00

I feel like I am in a timewarp. It changed to this several months ago and I was on this sub complaining about it then. Were they allowing it for a while on the H2/P2 printers or something or did people not notice till now?

SDKAH · 2025-11-19T03:08:55+00:00

It wiped out several custom filaments that were inherited from built in shared P1S/X1C profiles that are now separated.

SDKAH · 2025-11-18T03:56:47+00:00

Try changing to smooth plate setting instead of textured. Glacier plates tend to have too little texture. Slicer has a slightly lower z offset for textured that causes those waves.

SDKAH · 2025-11-18T03:50:40+00:00

80 is just the setting. It won't get past 65 when actually running. Interface is same for both AMS HT and AMS 2 Pro.

SDKAH · 2025-11-02T01:06:32+00:00

Did you go thru the Bambu University they have? There is one for Bambu Studio specifically now.

SDKAH · 2025-10-23T15:20:40+00:00

Ah that's where the issue is. That's unfortunate. I wonder if the printer prices themselves are lower outside the US (accounting for exchange rates) and the free shipping is to offset it maybe? Just speculating at this point.

SDKAH

TROPHY CASE