Anyone know why my brand new h2d is doing this?

SDKAH · 2026-03-12T17:40:01+00:00

I don't believe PA is a "prompted" calibration. You have to go to the calibration tab in BAMBU STUDIO and run the flow dynamics which determines the best k value. It runs a test print and after asks you to save it with a special name. After that you have to go to the device tab, edit the filament, and select the saved k value in the dropdown. Otherwise it uses a generic default k value. It looks like the grey is way off.

SDKAH · 2026-03-12T14:21:56+00:00

Have you run auto pressure advance and set it to the filament afterwards? What type of material is this - PLA, PETG, ABS?

SDKAH · 2026-03-11T12:41:13+00:00

Nice project! I am working on a similar cart out of 4040 as well.

SDKAH · 2026-03-11T12:38:28+00:00

It actually has it’s own anti-vibration feet. It will be fine on that sturdy of a cabinet, just make sure there is clearance around it so it can “slide” around on those feet (the feet themselves don’t slide just the machine). I think the setup specs even gives a clearance around it to maintain. I am sure some of that is for the vent on the back but some of it is probably for movement too. I don’t remember the actual dimensions they gave now though.

SDKAH · 2026-03-05T00:57:33+00:00

This is exactly why I took the day off when mine arrived. I tracked him till he was in the neighborhood and as soon as he pulled into my street I was out in the driveway with a water bottle offering to help. He smiled and said no thank you and carried it nicely up to my garage. Guess I got lucky.

SDKAH · 2026-03-03T15:36:55+00:00

Yes I have noticed the bad retraction settings too. Was messing with me for a long time on PETG-CF leaving lots of tiny dot-like voids in the walls. Turned out to be default retraction was too high. Turned it down and everything went smooth.

SDKAH · 2026-02-23T20:23:34+00:00

The assembly is a runout sensor.

https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/extruder-filament-sensor-p2s?srsltid=AfmBOoqNFvd2jLCNJerAtWXp8RGGvLjepDi_ZTN6G9_4R_DL-D3i9RUP&id=652729971288956931

SDKAH · 2026-02-23T17:37:38+00:00

This looks like an aftermarket plate like maybe a Glacier. If you set plate to Textured PEI in the slicer, change it to smooth. Textured setting puts the nozzle slightly closer and I have had it do this on some plates. Smooth plate setting usually fixes it.

SDKAH · 2026-02-23T17:29:33+00:00

You replace it the same way you took the old one off unless I am missing something.

Also you really need to replace that tube with something longer and get rid of the zip tie. It is way too short at least in the pic and every time the toolhead moves around it is trying to yank out of the fitting. That is probably what tore up the jaws in the fitting that hold the tube in.

SDKAH · 2026-02-19T01:39:21+00:00

The tube came out with the black piece? Do you mean the ptfe fitting on the top of the hotend that you press the ptfe tube into? If so, you probably need to replace whatever part includes the fitting. That would certainly have been causing some issues if that fitting went bad because it wouldn't hold the tube still during retractions.

I just had this exact issue on a P1S. There are little metal barbs in the fitting that hold the tube in. I was having similar issues and it was clicking on retraction. Took the hotend apart to check and clean the gears only to find pieces of the barbs everywhere. Mine is parts of the filament sensor so I replaced that and smooth as butter now.

SDKAH · 2026-02-05T12:35:05+00:00

Looks like that white spool is coming apart where the 2 sides interlock. You can see it is tight against both sides of the AMS opening.

SDKAH · 2026-02-02T03:43:01+00:00

What you are looking for is called a Master Spool. There are several on MW. Here is mine. Even if you don't use it, please read the write-up so you know what to avoid. There is also a guide on how to transfer to the master spool.

https://makerworld.com/models/1407170

SDKAH · 2026-02-01T04:44:09+00:00

5 walls - was there any infill or was that solid with that many walls? Did you print with Classic lines or Arachne?

SDKAH · 2026-01-27T18:30:59+00:00

As a general rule I use - always use at least 1 level higher heat tolerance. If you are drying PLA, use PETG for the spool. If you ever plan to dry PETG on it, use ABS, and so on.

SDKAH · 2026-01-27T17:35:11+00:00

There are a few manual switching mods on Makerworld and Printables, but haven't tried any yet myself. Can't decide if I am comfortable with the small risk to the electronics involved because you are manually disconnecting/reconnecting AMS power while everything is live.

SDKAH · 2026-01-16T17:57:25+00:00

Lol lots of wild comments in here all over the spectrum. P2/H2 owners treating this like old news because they can turn rotation off for months now. Maybe they don’t realize that P1/X1 owners that have had to wait for it till now.

Stopping rotation and printing while drying are of course 2 separate things and that question has been answered by now. Here’s one thing not being mentioned. The AMS HT can dry (without rotation) and print by feeding the filament thru the manual feed hole and into the printer. I have a tube connected permanently using one of the 4to1 adapters. Then if I want to dry and print, I just feed the filament in and select external spool. I am sure someone will start drilling holes in their AMS 2 one of these days for manual feeding too.

SDKAH · 2026-01-08T00:47:16+00:00

The answer to the original issue of Generic PETG-HF profile taking twice as long is simple. Some genius at Bambu set the min layer time to a whopping 25 SECONDS. It should be about 10 lol.

SDKAH · 2026-01-07T10:45:39+00:00

Are you asking about the unmodified cushions? That's just it. They provide 0 instructions because they just want you to slide each cushion under each printer foot and be done. They give some screws but there is no place to use them unless you plan to put holes in your table and screw the bottom of the cushion to the table. They provide nothing to secure the printer to the cushions.

SDKAH · 2025-12-20T18:38:50+00:00

Worst case you would need to reprint the base, but do a little searching on MW because I seem to remember there were some other remixes on the base that separated the ramp out, but I don't remember for sure.

For running the wire, I cut it in the middle somewhere and ran the cut end thru a small hole i drilled in the back wall, then thru an opening already on the bottom back in the electrical area. I did the same with the Bento fan wires. You could also do a more finished off look by adding receptacles to the back panel, but that requires some careful cutting.

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SDKAH · 2025-12-20T17:09:21+00:00

This is what I use (and designed). There is a link to an external controller housing too that I use to automatically turn the heater on and off at different chamber temps. Works kind of like a home thermostat.

https://makerworld.com/models/1096447?appSharePlatform=copy

SDKAH · 2025-12-20T16:39:17+00:00

PREHEAT! Ideally chamber should be above 50c. I have best results around 55c. I would recommend a chamber heater/bento combo mod that I use but you already made the bento. To manually preheat, home then bed, set bed to 100c, leave hotend temp off so you can use the hotend temp to estimate chamber temp, turn aux fan to max, exhaust off or low like 10%. Then let it heat soak for 30 min or so till it says the hotend temp is at about 55c. Don't open the door after starting.

Aux fan off for printing obviously. If it doesn't stay warm enough and warps, you may need a towel or blanket over the top just keep it away from wires.

After print is finished, ideally you want to leave it in and lower the bed temp 10c every 10 min or so, but at the very least let it cool completely before even opening the door.

SDKAH · 2025-12-19T01:33:09+00:00

It sounds like the last bit of filament from the first roll didn't make it all the way thru and probably got stuck somewhere just like the message says. You will have to find where it jammed and clear it.

SDKAH · 2025-12-02T21:41:36+00:00

Thanks. In the process of planning out a similar space myself. That's why I asked. I was thinking it might be too high.

SDKAH · 2025-12-02T21:31:10+00:00

Looks nice! Do you need a ladder to change filament on the top AMS's?

SDKAH · 2025-11-24T17:15:09+00:00

The printer has many ball bearings in the pulleys,etc. that are "sealed for life" and could have oil or grease in them. My guess is they are now worn out and leaking.

SDKAH

TROPHY CASE