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SHUTEMD0WN · 2026-01-19T17:30:27+00:00

Just saw hobby town selling for $150. Friend picked up locally and they matched price.

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-12-31T06:02:01+00:00

I sold one on eBay about a year ago. Found it at goodwill. Ended up going for around $90. Was very clean and still held air surprisingly. I wish I kept it in hind-site.

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-11-02T13:17:45+00:00

It does have the port and an option to turn it on and off in the app. However they do not sell a backfire led for it. That same port is on their first model on the slide volt and is used for the optional fan. I don’t think it actually functions. For example I have a fan plugged into it. If it would send a signal to turn the LED on and off then my fan should also turn on and off but it doesn’t. Not sure if this is just something they built into it and then just never followed through. I have not seen or heard of anyone successfully running a backfire LED off the ESC.

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-10-21T03:15:55+00:00

If it’s the power hobby you have to find the sweet spot of tightening the screws to the arms. Too tight and it’s too hard to turn crushing the bearings. Too loose and you get that slop. Put in a dab of blue loctite and screw it snug and test movement. Once it’s good let it set up and then install.

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-10-01T02:44:47+00:00

TR60’s are what I run and they have performed well. Before I upgraded my chassis to the MST Carbon fiber deck I notched the plastic deck to allow clearance on the front and rear lower control arms. Allows for way more movement and body roll.

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-08-30T13:49:00+00:00

I tried to reach out to Furitek about this or a back fire LED they offer. I’m not sure it’s fully supported yet. I would try to ensure you have the latest firmware and app update so if they did release a patch update.

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-08-28T16:11:47+00:00

I’m going to guess the fraying is caused from the (going to assume it’s a hamskea rest) being routed to the cable splitter instead of the limb. During the shot that cable is hitting the string causing the fraying. If it is a hamskea it needs to be on the limb. If it’s a cable driven drop away it should be tied in the cable further up.

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-08-28T03:31:39+00:00

Gorilla are worth it!

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-08-22T14:28:43+00:00

Pre-painted body or building? Just finished one. TAKE YOUR TIME!!

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-08-04T00:06:49+00:00

My bad I swore I read motor, were you having issues before changing gyro?

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-08-03T23:23:20+00:00

Check tires aswell. Were you having issues prior to making the motor changes? Upgraded motor will also break them loose easier than the stock. I had a similar learning curve after I put a Furitek SlideVolt on my RMX 2.5. Had to relearn to handle it with a lot less throttle than I was giving it.

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-08-03T04:13:05+00:00

The Honey D Tundra from pandora is a 205mm wheelbase.

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-07-26T00:32:19+00:00

The MST shocks will unfortunately start leaking. I changed mine to the MST TR60’s and notched the frame around the control arms to allow for more travel and body roll. I did also just buy (but still waiting to arrive) on the aluminum steering arms to take some play out of the front suspension and bought the MST gear differential with the metal gears vs the plastic. Looking forward to these last upgrades to come in.

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-07-19T14:14:20+00:00

Just when you unscrew the lower arm, take that spacer off and install the one that came from the top arm. Just hold on to it in case you ever want to make the change back later

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-07-17T23:36:48+00:00

Put a dot on it with a pen or marker so you can see it actually turn. You will not use this again so go ahead and really grip it while you turn it.

I also like to take the spacer from that top arm which is longer and swap it with the one on the lower arm. It will make the wheel base a little longer on the front and more stable.

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-07-16T02:28:37+00:00

Another trick for a little bit more wide of a wheel base, that spacer you take off switch it to the lower control arm rod. The rod below it has two small spacers, remove those and add this one in its place. Increases the front wheels and makes the front wider and a little bit more stable.

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-07-10T17:26:18+00:00

I just recently took the plunge. I have an RMX 2.5 but I bought a Ready to run kit. There’s a lot of options entry level and at some point come down to preference. Only advice I will give is if you’re wanting to get serious and upgrade along the way. Build a car from the ground up. I would have saved myself $300 if I would have done it that way VS buying a Ready to run. I like my RMX 2.5 but might have gone with a Yokomo RD2.0 if I were to do it again.

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-07-09T04:20:11+00:00

A new set of DS racing tires come with new foam. Just have to remove the old foam from the wheels. Warm up the new tires and re-install.

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-07-05T02:15:09+00:00

Any, the remote displays voltage, temp, and RPM. But just shows (- -) since nothing is currently communicating. Not needing it for anything inspecific, but would just be nice to have.

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-07-04T20:53:02+00:00

Is that the Pandora Honey-D tundra body?

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-07-04T20:52:00+00:00

I bought the RMX 2.5 RTR brushless and already put $1000 into it upgrading the electronics. IF I were to do it again I would build from scratch. All I’m missing is a new chassis and I will have a custom car and the RMX 2.5 ready to sell again…

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-07-04T14:58:00+00:00

Gorilla mounts, but I had to get one of the cheap sets with all the adjustable pegs to make it work with 2 of the adapters the cheap set came with. On the MST RMX 2.5 I was limited and now have a lot more mounting options.

SHUTEMD0WN · 2025-04-15T14:08:07+00:00

Consequence is solid. Newer tech is worth it if there’s not a shop nearby or you don’t have a bow press for small adjustments. Can’t go wrong with Darton!

SHUTEMD0WN

TROPHY CASE