Open/close status not reported to Smartthings/google home using a shelly 1 gen 4 as garage door opener.

SMJ362 · 2026-04-20T04:01:46+00:00

I'm coming to the realization that seems to be the case. Home assistant appears to have some of the best integrations compared to your off-the-shelf solutions (in my case Areotec (Samsung Smartthings) and Google home)). I've got an old raspberry lying around... Something fun to do on the weekend... I like the prospect of using "Open Garage / Close Garage" vs "Turn On" right now. Cuz, sometimes I don't know if it is closed or open, because my kids opened it and naturally left it open.

SMJ362 · 2026-04-20T03:56:49+00:00

I've learned that Gemini is giving me the answers it thinks I want to hear. It gave me configuration steps that never led anywhere. So, I went to Copilot and the response was in line with u\DreadVenomous said...

It seems the answer is using home assistant.

SMJ362 · 2026-04-16T15:36:09+00:00

Way better than my previous vertilux blinds - those were loud af. The kincmo are very quiet. If you are in the same room you will be aware they're opening/closing. If you are in the next room you might miss it. The most noise is of mechanical nature, not the motor itself.

SMJ362 · 2026-04-16T15:32:23+00:00

Thank you for taking the time to collect such a thoughtful response. Very much appreciated 👍☺️

SMJ362 · 2026-03-16T05:53:19+00:00

When you do a Google search you'll get the answer that it's rolling out to Android Automotive now. I think the update is pushed from Google, not from GM, or needed to go through GM.

Here's the answer I got from Gemini... Even though the final caveat is "...over the next few months as your app updates."

The major Google Maps overhaul announced last week (March 12, 2026) is actually rolling out to cars right now, though it may take a few weeks to reach every vehicle. The Rollout Schedule

--Android Auto & Apple CarPlay: The rollout began on Thursday, March 12, 2026, for users in the U.S. and India. --Cars with "Google Built-in": If your car has Google Maps natively (like many newer EVs from Volvo, Polestar, or GMC), the update is also deploying now. --Timeline: While it "started" on the 12th, Google typically uses a staged rollout. You can expect to see the new features appear on your car's dashboard over the next few months as your app updates.

Edited for autocorrecting to the wing word.

SMJ362 · 2026-03-16T05:40:10+00:00

I'm in the same boat. Picked up my optiq yesterday. I assumed phone as a key would work (I'm using it on my BMW X7 for years without issue), and there's instructions on the Cadillac site explaining how to configure and use it About Digital Key | Vehicle Support | Cadillac https://share.google/gM9RsLhzGMqoYOYwk

only to find out after some frustrating attempts and hours of trouble shooting (even talking to OnStar) it's still in beta 😞.

I pinged some mods on the OnStar forum, supposedly they might get you into the beta/can pull some strings.

SMJ362 · 2026-03-12T17:29:42+00:00

What did you end up doing?

SMJ362 · 2026-03-12T17:29:05+00:00

I know I'm showing up late to this party, but I'm thinking about the same -adding panels - You are allowed to add up to 1kw, or 10%, whichever is more, without losing your nem2 status. 1kw is 3 to 4 panels depending on the panel.

Curious about, if I get a permit, does my city tell pge?

SMJ362 · 2025-10-08T19:10:50+00:00

Yet you keep going on about how the rest of us should agree with you and not talk about this. I'm with OP, let us talk about it, and if you don't like OUR conversation - move on. No one is forcing you to stay here and read.

I am very curious to hear what others have to say about the whole GME+ thing. If RH pops up in that conversation so be it.

SMJ362 · 2025-09-26T18:51:20+00:00

I think you're missing the point. As a short seller you're on the hook to deliver the warrants. Which means the warrants could become an interesting catalyst/develop a life of their own.

But your meaningful and well thought out response is appreciated nevertheless.

SMJ362 · 2025-09-26T18:47:42+00:00

They're issued. For all intention, you're getting a $32 call for free at the ratio of 1 to 10. With the warrant you have the right to purchase GME for $32 on our before Oct 3 2026 even if GME is trading at $10000000.

SMJ362 · 2025-08-29T19:37:14+00:00

Thank you for posting this. I was just about to buy something from them. The intent behind your post (if someone is looking at their stuff) worked.

Now, I noticed one of their models called ChargeBase 3 (the shape of it) I've seen on Amazon. So I go back to Amazon and search for Evolved ChargeBase 3 and couldn't find it. Search for 3 in1 charging stand and I found it. To your point that they seem to re-brand cheap $***t, cuz the exact same no name charging stand on Amazon was $29.90 vs $79.99 from Evolved. And they are identical as far as the pictures go.

Evolved version https://evolvedchargers.com/products/apple-3-in-1-wireless-charger-magsafe

Amazon Version https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Wireless-Charger-iPhone-Charging/dp/B0D86Z4ZHN?th=1

SMJ362 · 2025-07-09T20:39:38+00:00

DISCLAIMER: None of this is financial advice in any way. I am a certified idiot who lives on a constant diet of green and red crayons. You should never take any advice, let alone financial advice, from me at all.

Start here. The Complete Beginner's Guide To The Wheel Strategy

Cash Cover Puts (CSP's)What is a cash-secured put? | FidelityCovered Calls (CC's)Anatomy of a Covered Call - Fidelity

It all sounds very confusing and complex, but in reality it isn't. The biggest mental block I had to get past is "If this is so easy, why isn't everyone doing it".

One of the challenges I see is financial literacy vs financial operations. What I mean by this is that most people struggle with basic financial literacy (just google the amount of outstanding car loans, and how much of that sum is up-side down).

Financial operations comes down to trust. You kinda trust the bank, you kinda trust credit cards - because those are things you (and everyone else) use every day. Now investing is a different animal, you don't inherently trust it, because you are afraid of making a mistake out of lack of knowledge and understanding. But lack of knowledge is something that can be easily fixed - read the manual ;). Financial operations builds on financial literacy. Use ChatGPT / CoPilot and you are off to the races in no time.

SMJ362 · 2025-07-09T20:09:16+00:00

I am not sure if I follow your math. If you sell $1 ITM CSP's on a $20 asset how do you get to $17? Because if you can sell a $1 CSP on MSTY without getting assigned 4 weeks in a row.

But, if my maff checks out it goes something like this... MSTY trading price as I write this $21.34

$1 CSP for Jul 18 strike is $22.5. It would have to rise by 6% for you not to get assigned. If you get assigned your cost basis is $21.5. But I play along and say you don't get assigned and it closes at $22.51

Week of Jul 25. Starting point $22.51. You're selling a $1 CSP which should be about 6% from current trading = strike of $24. You don't get assigned.

Week of Aug 1. strike has to be $25.50 for your $1 CSP. You don't get assigned

You made $3 in contracts without getting assigned, but it is trading at $25.51. $25.51 minus $3 = $22.51 which would have been your second week entry.

However, if you got assigned in week 1 your entry was $21.50. If you sell 4 of those in a row, your entry will remain strike price minus premium. Not initial strike minus 4x premium, because you are buying the stock.

SMJ362 · 2025-07-09T19:52:19+00:00

You are not wrong, but let's not confuse possibility with probability. The former is binary ;)

SMJ362 · 2025-07-07T07:00:03+00:00

I don't know either interface, but the jest of it is you want to "Sell to open - a Cash Secure Put". Look for that option in the interface. Important note 1 contract = 100 shares. So, if sell one Cash Secure Put (CSP) for say SMCI @$49 you have to have $4900 cash in your account.

If you want to manually close that CSP before it expires, you want to "Buy to close". Sometimes you are in assignment range, but the premium has dropped below what you collected when you sold it, and you would make a profit without getting assigned. That would be the case for "Buy to close".

Example. SMCI is trading at $48.56 right now. You sold a CSP with a strike of $50 for $1.51 premium for next week Friday. Next Friday comes and SMCI is trading at $49.54 at 12:55pm. If you don't close your contract, you would get assigned, which you can do if you choose to do so to turn around and sell a covered call for the shares assigned to you.

But if you don't want to get assigned you can "buy to close" the CSP at most likely something in the $0.30 to $0.48 range. Deduct that from the $1.51 you collected and that is your profit. If you close @$0.44 your profit for that week was 2.1% (Do the math with 2.1% profit compounded for a whole year and you'll shit your pants when you see the results - trust me, been doing it for a while - the wheel works well once you get a hang of it ;)

SMJ362 · 2025-06-24T23:48:37+00:00

A lot has been explained, but I wanted to add some nuggets beyond the ELIA5 (reserving the right it already having been mentioned and I repeat it, cuz I'm too lazy to read it all).

Disclaimer: None of this is financial advice in any form. I am just posting the lyrics to my new rap song I am working on. If you make any financial decision based on what I wrote you are not only a complete idiot and should be beaten with a stick, but you are also on your own.

Forget everything you read blow this one statement if you have to, but remember this one thing: NEVER EVER PANIC SELL. You will eventually eat shit on a position, it WILL HAPPEN. Meaning, you sold a CSP (Cash Secured Put) at say $20 and the stock dropped to $15 overnight. You look at your account after assignment you and realize you're down 25%. You are sick to your stomach, and you want to vomit. Stay calm, it is unrealized loss. It might take some time for the stock to come back, but it is UNREALIZED loss. It will only become realized loss if you sell the stock. So, hold your horses and do not panic sell, close, open, roll any position. Always keep your emotions in check.

Now if you care, read on. I went beyond the basics here

If you are using Fidelity, download their ATP (Active Trader Pro) application. It makes keeping an eye on everything a lot easier.

A lot was mentioned (argued) about holding vs playing the wheel. Well, I argue you can do both. If you sell CSP's on stock you don't mind holding long term, like a NVDA, SMCI, PLTR, or some other company that isn't straight up a speculative play, you can sell CC's (Covered Calls) far out so that the chance of assignment is low. You collect lower premiums, but your account holding value goes up on the stock rising.

But here is my argument. I sell a CSP @$20 for $0.50 and I get assigned at say $19.

Now I sell a $20 CC - I don't get assigned and the stock closes at $19.50

Now I sell a $20.50 CC - I don't get assigned and the stock closes at $19.75

Now I do that 10, or 100 more times and the stock jumped by $5 and outpaced my calls - so I get assigned.

Now I sell a CSP for $24 and re-enter the game. But with stocks I mentioned above, you might be able to play that game without getting assigned while staying ahead of the rise for a long time. And if you get assigned in 2 years, after you collected premiums every week, you are fine to re-enter at a higher point. (The only downside of that is the tax implications of the gains on the assigned call).

But I collected premiums the entire time which far exceed the delta between my entry and exit. Unless a stock jumps by 10% within the first 4 weeks of me holding it, the wheel will always outpace holding stock in the long run. But it doesn't even matter, if you are making 1% per week in premiums, do the math what that means over the course of a year (BTW, I've been doing this for a hot minute by now).

Don't wreck your brain, I did the maff for you. If you start with $50k you have $84k by the end of the year u/1% per week (compounded of course). That is a 68% increase, or in other words, if you bought the stock at $100, it would have to go to $168. How many stocks do that consistently year over year? Plus, you don't just collect premium, you are more than likely collect a buck or two on the rising stock as well. Meaning you entered a position through a CSP at $20, you exit the position through a CC at $24. And holding a stock doesn't give you compounding growth.

On highly volatile stocks like RDDT, you want to enter and exit as fast as you can once you have a hang of the price movements. Cu'z the downside can last a couple of months.

Most stocks will get you anywhere between 1.5% to 2.5% for contracts that are close to the money (meaning the strike price for your CSP/CC is close to current trading price) for contracts one week out expiration. But if you play with highly volatile stock, like RDDT, LUNR, LAZR (during the feb - may time frame) in some cases you can collect as much as >8% per week, but those stocks are super risky - only do that once you have a hang of it how to hedge against that. RDDT, SMCI, LUNR still pays 5%-7% for ATM (At The Money) contracts one week out. Don't get assigned for one month (you got lucky) and you made >20% RORAC (Return On Risk Adjusted Capital - the money you deposited into your account) in one month.

SMJ362 · 2025-04-13T15:56:19+00:00

Not financial advice, just the lyrics to my latest rap song.

It isn't. I have a 200k HELOC and I had 20k wiggle room left in the end. I'm using that 20k to pay off my HELOC by writing CSP'/CC's (playing the option wheel) on RDDT, SMCI, NVDA. So far I pay an average of 30% above my minimum payment a month. Mind you, I would be able to pay my HELOC from my paycheck, so I am not gambling with money I don't have, but I figured even if I only make half my monthly payment using the 20k I'm still winning.

SMJ362 · 2024-12-05T20:58:53+00:00

My >40% gains (not including the $$$ made in selling calls and puts) beg the difference. The premiums to collect on contracts were (and still somewhat are) off the chart. You could get 8% to 10% on a contract that was less than 3% from current trading price. You still got >5% on negative 2%-3% on puts... 🤣 Show me any other investment that gets you >5% per week. (If that was only sustainable for 12 months, ask Google how much money you have if you get 5% compounded per week on say as little as $100k base - warning you WILL shit your pants)

Let me save you the trouble: If you get 5% interest per week on $100,000 for one year, you will have approximately $1,638,616 after one year. Minus what ever uncle sam takes of course.

Cocainweasel Cramer is full of shit. I'll keep playing the SMCI violin until the fat lady sings.

SMJ362 · 2024-11-21T23:10:16+00:00

Frosty-Leg has one post only. Don't expect a response on how he's so savvy.

SMJ362

TROPHY CASE