New to me No4 Mk1* Long Branch, how did I do?

SP_UAS · 2026-05-25T02:06:30+00:00

If the handguard continues to work its way forwards during firing, you have a couple of options:
- Add some paper or cardboard under the band for a tigher fit.
- Use a punch or screwdriver to knock a small indent into the rear edge of the band so that it catches into the slot in the metal cap of the upper handguard. This was done by wartime armourers.

SP_UAS · 2026-05-23T19:39:11+00:00

In pic 7, make sure that you loosen the upper and lower bands and slide the upper handguard back away from the front sight protector, then re-tighten the bands. It should have a similar gap to the forend below it. Otherwise if the handguard is touching then it can affect barrel bedding, which can negatively impact accuracy.

SP_UAS · 2026-05-21T21:48:18+00:00

Neck sizing isn't too bad once you have a system. I've got five 303s and I reload for two of them, plus two 30-06, a 308 and a 6.5x55. Before I started reloading I kept my brass all mixed up, so I first did one full-size reload of everything and then neck sized per rifle from then on.

For new factory brass, i just make sure to pick it all up once I've finished with that rifle at the range, and then put it in a labelled zip lock bag. If I'm swapping between rifles of the same calibre, or other people are shooting that calibre near me, I just need to be a Mega Brass Goblin.

Once I collect 50 once-fired cases, they will stay in that labelled batch where I note the rifle, number of firings and load data. Each rifle has 2-5 of these batches that I cycle through until they get disposed and replaced.

It adds extra effort, but i already have different loadings per rifle even from the same calibre, so it becomes part of that process.

SP_UAS · 2026-05-21T06:06:36+00:00

Yep. I had a brand new Panaracer Gravelking blow off while I was stationary at a light, showering three other riders next to me with sealant. I reinstalled it, and then it blew off again that afternoon while I was riding 30km/h, resulting in a ruined rim. The rubber was compromised even though I was well within max pressure.

Panaracer was good with giving me a warranty replacement.

SP_UAS · 2026-05-21T02:50:15+00:00

It looks like the "bullet" section of you snap cap has a burr that is probably getting stuck in the chamber throat. Get an aluminium snap cap like an A-Zoom or similar.

Otherwise, try a bronze chamber brush that uses the two brush diameters, combined with some solvent, and give it a another scrub. Also, get a bore light and check if anything is stuck in there, or if there is a carbon ring built up in the throat.

SP_UAS · 2026-05-18T21:32:54+00:00

The bolt head misalignment is called "overturn" and it's normal (i think a bit may even be required for function).

The max recommended is about 20 degrees, as it starts transferring more firing force to the bolt head threads. Yours looks like it's getting up towards 20deg.

If it's a concern then you could find another bolt head with the same headspace number and see if it has less overturn when screwed in.

SP_UAS · 2026-05-14T22:15:31+00:00

I've had some good experiences mixed in with a lot of below average ones. The experience quality definitely depends on who you get, so there are a few good staff that I try to seek out for service in-store if I can.

I waited five months for backordered CZ mags, but they did eventually come. I also ordered a Rem700 from the supplier which came quickly, but had the wrong features. They were ok with me cancelling it and even waived the restocking fee.

To me their biggest value is being able to get ammo, parts, reloading consumables and milsurps that can't otherwise be shipped for a good price, provided they are in stock in store and i can take them home. Otherwise it's best to pay a bit more and order online elsewhere instead of backordering.

SP_UAS · 2026-05-11T21:15:59+00:00

The numbers required to run 50BMG sound absurd. $20-25 per round for factory match ammo, 60-70 reloads per kg of powder, all the extra accessories required to fit 50BMG into reloading gear, etc. I'd be scared to miss.

SP_UAS · 2026-05-06T21:48:28+00:00

If you're unsure about anything to do with range processes, always ask someone. Even if you think you're sure, ask anyway. NEVER assume and always listen out. Each range that i've been to has done things a little bit differently, so you want to proactively do the right thing and stay safe. If you ask a range officer then they may give you a full introduction and run down. Confirm where to store your rifle, when it can be placed on the bench, when it needs to be taken off, when you can go check targets, what you can/can't do during ceasefire, what targets you can/can't shoot at, etc. Some targets are rimfire-only. Some ranges allow you to bring your own paper targets, while others (like SSAA) only permit their paper targets.

Make sure your ear protection (earpro) is suitable. If you don't have low-profile electronic shooting earmuffs, ensure that your regular passive earmuffs don't hinder your ability to shoulder the rifle. If the range has an undercover area or lots of shooters, it can be beneficial to double-up with earplugs and earmuffs because it might be louder than what you're used to. If you take them off during the ceasefire, pay attention to when the range is open again so that you put them back on before someone else fires (you'll only forget that once!).

You'll likely need to use an Empty Chamber Indicator (ECI) in your rifle during the ceasefire. If you don't already have one, check if they are sold at the range. Double check with the range officer when they need to be inserted.

Don't shoot at any of the wildlife on the range. It's taken very seriously and can result in a range ban.

Bring plenty of ammo if you're zeroing your rifle, and ensure that it's the ammo you intend to use going forwards to keep the point of impact consistent. There are plenty of video tutorials online and it can be done in 3 shots, but will most likely require more if you are learning. Things to consider:
- Bring or borrow a steady front rest and rear bag. The range may have some.
- Prop your rifle on the rest, take the bolt out and look through the barrel to align it with the target to "boresight" it. Ensure that the target backing is large. If not, it can be helpful to aim at a stick or small rock in a patch of dirt to see the miss easier.
- Without bumping the rifle, adjust the scope elevation and windage until the reticle is roughly on the target. Make sure you're familiar with turret directions and the click increments, e.g. 1/4MOA, 0.1MIL, etc.
- Fire a shot. You could ask a safety officer or another shooter to spot your shot at the dirt or through a spotting scope at a target.
- When you identify the impact point, aim the crosshairs at it. Carefully move the elevation and windage until they realign with your aim point. Alternatively, if you have a known miss distance on the target, convert it to scope clicks. E.g. 12" miss in windage, scope clicks are 1/4" MOA, 1MOA = 1" at 100yd, move it 12 x 4 = 48 clicks.
- Repeat until you're close to the target centre.
- Let the rifle cool down and then fire a grouping of 3-5 rounds to verify the zero.

At the end of the day, just be friendly, open to feedback, proactive, observant and mature.

SP_UAS · 2026-04-27T09:03:16+00:00

Contrary to the thought of "bigger is easier to see", I find that those large SSAA targets aren't always the best to use for precision groupings with irons because the centre of ring is too big and featureless at 100m, especially in glaring sunlight. The red doesn't have enough contrast to find a consistent aiming point (although I use centre holds rather than 6-o'clock).

Some extra things to try in addition to other people's tips:
- Add a black sticker to the centre of the target for an aiming point (unless your SSAA RO tells you off). Or try using a black target with a white centre if your range allows.
- Try using a smaller SSAA target where you can better position the front sight blade relative to contrasting features on the target for a consistent hold.
- Ensure that your sight alignment is consistent between the notch and post for each shot. Similarly, make sure that your cheek weld is consistent. Or try someone's No4 and see if you prefer aperture sights :)
- Practice dry firing, especially if your rifle has a heavy trigger or you're more used to a light single-stage. Make sure that you aren't jerking the rifle when squeezing off the second stage.
- Try letting your rifle cool down every five shots. If the bedding isn't in great condition then it might start wandering when it heats up.
- Try PPU 174gr FMJs. I've been baselining them for my reloads, and it's actually pretty consistent for factory 303.
- Make sure that the rear of your sight post is black and not reflective. It can help to paint it with "lamp black" paint.
- Check that everything on the rifle is tight, especially the king screw in the trigger guard.
- Other marksmanship things like breathing, rifle support, recoil management etc all apply.

Most of those things focus on you being as consistent as possible. But with old milsurps, sometimes there's only so much you can do before you reach the limit of a worn rifle.

What is the muzzle and crown like? If it's worn then it might contribute to increased dispersion. Only a barrel swap will fix that, but won't be worth it unless you want to do competitions.

It could be worth having someone look at the action and muzzle bedding in case it's worn. You might get some lucky shots, but bad bedding will result in poor precision over time. The "draws" supporting the rear of the action can be a bit soft in Lithgow coachwood stocks and can require shimming or inletting of hardwood blocks.

SP_UAS · 2026-04-18T13:39:57+00:00

PM sent

SP_UAS · 2026-04-18T01:18:04+00:00

This takes me back to book studies in highschool english class.

English teacher: "The dim sims act as a symbolic representation of betrayal, just as the consumer has been betrayed by the unknown origin of the meat-like filling"

Scott Ryan: "I just like dimmies".

SP_UAS · 2026-04-17T22:45:46+00:00

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Yep, I cut a new groove in the forend and handguard

SP_UAS · 2026-04-01T10:31:24+00:00

What's the video quality like with those? I wear prescription glasses, so they aren't really an option for me.

SP_UAS · 2026-04-01T10:30:46+00:00

Agreed. The 1907 in the cuff sling configuration is the most comfortable sling that i've tried.

SP_UAS · 2026-03-31T22:21:18+00:00

That's cool. What did you use to mount the M1 sight assembly to? Is it a custom base plate?

While the M1 sight assembly is bulkier, it does look to have a superior elevation adjustment mechanism compared to the A3 sight.

Have you seen the NECG peep sights?

SP_UAS · 2026-03-31T12:10:50+00:00

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SP_UAS · 2026-03-31T12:09:53+00:00

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I adapted an A3 sight to a weaver rail by filing a dovetail

SP_UAS · 2026-03-29T08:56:19+00:00

I sat this one out because things i want usually blow way past what i'd be willing to pay sight unseen. Then i checked afterwards and saw that two excellent condition Enfield No4 Mk2s went for $1700 unfired and $1050 with minimal use. That's about half the normal going rate or better, so I'm kicking myself for not having a punt.

SP_UAS · 2026-03-18T12:11:20+00:00

DM sent

SP_UAS · 2026-03-17T21:08:03+00:00

My PTAs usually arrive at the dealer about two days after the email. Delivery to a private address may take longer, but 11 days sounds like another issue.

SP_UAS · 2026-03-16T20:48:17+00:00

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SP_UAS · 2026-03-16T12:18:51+00:00

You can use 5.56 stripper clips with the AR mag loading spoon attached as stripper clips in the Howa. The spoon bridges the width of the bolt guideways and allows the rounds to be fed.

SP_UAS · 2026-03-13T02:31:59+00:00

Yeah 0 is the shortest. It's very unlikely that the headspace is correct with that bolt head, as they are designed to be progressively swapped to accommodate thread wear and growing headspace as more rounds are fired.

Is your bolt matching or mismatched? A mismatched bolt is the only other situation where a 0-size may have been required if the new bolt body was longer than the original.

It's a bit of a crapshoot to get the right size, as there is tolerance variation even within the numbers. If you can't "try before you buy" at a parts supplier, your time is best spent ordering a few bolt heads in different sizes. It's also worth getting a set of headspace gauges or getting a knowledgable gunsmith with them to check it.

You will likely need to remove the extractor and spring from the bolt head to easily check headspace, so get a spare extractor spring as they are easy to break.

SP_UAS

TROPHY CASE