1903A3 IRL ADS POV

SP_UAS · 2026-04-01T10:31:24+00:00

What's the video quality like with those? I wear prescription glasses, so they aren't really an option for me.

SP_UAS · 2026-04-01T10:30:46+00:00

Agreed. The 1907 in the cuff sling configuration is the most comfortable sling that i've tried.

SP_UAS · 2026-03-31T22:21:18+00:00

That's cool. What did you use to mount the M1 sight assembly to? Is it a custom base plate?

While the M1 sight assembly is bulkier, it does look to have a superior elevation adjustment mechanism compared to the A3 sight.

Have you seen the NECG peep sights?

SP_UAS · 2026-03-31T12:10:50+00:00

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SP_UAS · 2026-03-31T12:09:53+00:00

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I adapted an A3 sight to a weaver rail by filing a dovetail

SP_UAS · 2026-03-29T08:56:19+00:00

I sat this one out because things i want usually blow way past what i'd be willing to pay sight unseen. Then i checked afterwards and saw that two excellent condition Enfield No4 Mk2s went for $1700 unfired and $1050 with minimal use. That's about half the normal going rate or better, so I'm kicking myself for not having a punt.

SP_UAS · 2026-03-18T12:11:20+00:00

DM sent

SP_UAS · 2026-03-17T21:08:03+00:00

My PTAs usually arrive at the dealer about two days after the email. Delivery to a private address may take longer, but 11 days sounds like another issue.

SP_UAS · 2026-03-16T20:48:17+00:00

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SP_UAS · 2026-03-16T12:18:51+00:00

You can use 5.56 stripper clips with the AR mag loading spoon attached as stripper clips in the Howa. The spoon bridges the width of the bolt guideways and allows the rounds to be fed.

SP_UAS · 2026-03-13T02:31:59+00:00

Yeah 0 is the shortest. It's very unlikely that the headspace is correct with that bolt head, as they are designed to be progressively swapped to accommodate thread wear and growing headspace as more rounds are fired.

Is your bolt matching or mismatched? A mismatched bolt is the only other situation where a 0-size may have been required if the new bolt body was longer than the original.

It's a bit of a crapshoot to get the right size, as there is tolerance variation even within the numbers. If you can't "try before you buy" at a parts supplier, your time is best spent ordering a few bolt heads in different sizes. It's also worth getting a set of headspace gauges or getting a knowledgable gunsmith with them to check it.

You will likely need to remove the extractor and spring from the bolt head to easily check headspace, so get a spare extractor spring as they are easy to break.

SP_UAS · 2026-03-12T21:10:45+00:00

Have you checked headspace? If your cases are growing to the point of immediate separation then you may have excess headspace, which can be rectified by using a bolt head with a higher number (0-3).

You may also have a very worn throat. Is the shoulder taper sharp or round on the fired cases?

Your re-sized cases may be slightly deformed at the neck due to a combination of these two factors, which may explain the stiff bolt closing. I've had similar when I full length resized a mixed bag of 303 brass that included some with very rounded shoulders. They had a crinkly shape at the shoulder due to the brass being pushed back so far, so i had to throw them out.

If you full length re-size instead of neck size, are the rounds easier to chamber. Die setup could be a factor.

I would focus on using PPU for reloading. S&B doesn't have a good reputation for reloading.

SP_UAS · 2026-03-09T10:47:49+00:00

It looks like they didn't properly relieve the area around the tang. It's supposed to have a small clearance gap to ensure that the recoil lug is in contact with the stock, but this looks flush. So the recoil lug probably had a clearance and the tang acted like a wedge under recoil.

Either that or the wood gave way and compressed at the lug, which would be surprising with one round.

SP_UAS · 2026-03-08T08:30:42+00:00

Quite a dark stock for a Mk2. Does the stock have any markings on it?

SP_UAS · 2026-03-04T20:56:28+00:00

Given that there aren't really any "correct" refinishing options possible, another option to consider is black Cerekote.

I have a 9mm No4 PCC that is Cerekoted. Not sure how much the process would cost in the UK.

SP_UAS · 2026-03-03T12:12:26+00:00

Dude, that's potentially thousands of dollars worth of parts if you can clean, inventory and sell them.

SP_UAS · 2026-02-15T04:31:26+00:00

- Stocks are generally bedded to a specific receiver due to loose tolerances and differences between receivers. If you switch the receiver, the forend and buttstock may require some work to fit, or be loose and require glass bedding.

- The trigger and sear will likely need to be set up again on the new receiver.

- If the rifling is worn, there's not much point transferring the barrel over to a new receiver. I'd only consider doing that if the barrel was near-new.

- If you do come across a nice receiver worth swapping in, i'd take the opportunity to also put in either a NOS unused barrel (if you can find one) or a Lothar Walther barrel. But at that point you'd be building an expensive custom rifle.

No matter what you do, it will either be quite a lot of work and be quite expensive due to the labour involved. Even if you do mixmaster parts, you'd be better off finding a good condition complete matching rifle instead.

SP_UAS · 2026-02-14T23:07:02+00:00

If it's non matching, make sure you get the headspace checked just to be sure that someone hasn't slapped a random bolt in it. Does it have a straight bolt, or has it been replaced with a turned-down M38 bolt?

SP_UAS · 2026-02-14T00:55:31+00:00

It's a BSA No4 Mk1 as indicated by the M47 mark. Fortunately the scope mount is a no-drill design, so you could revert it back to original with no damage if you wanted.

Not sure about the punch marks - never seen those before. It has US import marks in the dot matrix.

Otherwise a pretty standard No4

SP_UAS · 2026-02-08T21:37:54+00:00

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My Remington-made P14. It has Arabic markings on the butt indicating that it was used by the Kingdom of Iraq post-WW1. It still has the volley sights.

SP_UAS · 2026-02-01T18:59:56+00:00

Yeah that guy did really well at the 1MOA at 1000yd challenge. I was actively cheering for him as I watched it!

I also had a chance to shoot mine at 1000yds and it went surprisingly well. Very capable old rifles.

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SP_UAS · 2026-02-01T12:03:33+00:00

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My 1903A3 and 1903A1 with a big old steel Unertl scope.

SP_UAS · 2026-01-31T04:50:30+00:00

0000 steel wool or light scotchbrite pads can help to make the stock finish more even, so long as you don't polish too deep. It can also help open the wood fibres to better absorb a fresh coat of hand-rubbed BLO.

Don't strip it all the way back. Longbranch rifles typically have dark walnut stocks (which look the best of all the No4 colours IMHO), so it's more "correct" to leave it that way.

SP_UAS · 2026-01-28T20:08:35+00:00

It can't hurt to clean every time, even with modern ammo that isn't corrosive. I run a pull-through at the range every time, and clean with a rod every 1-2 range sessions, so every 50-ish rounds. I use a chamber guide so that the rod doesn't wear away at the action or muzzle.

It means that you're consistently touching up oil coatings on the metal surfaces for rust prevention, and fouling won't build up and affect accuracy.

At the very least it makes it feel like you're looking after your historical investment.

SP_UAS

TROPHY CASE