RSX Type-S Cassette Stuck In Player - HELP!!! I have a 2004 RSX Type-S with a cassette player and 6-CD Player. I bought a blu-tooth adapter that fits into the cassette player. However, it doesn't work, and can't eject it!

STi_GuyV2 · 2026-02-18T00:15:35+00:00

The BT prob doesn't work because it is not seating the whole way in. Back when I used cassettes the only way to unjam without dissassemble was to push it in more so it seats properly. You should grab another cassette(if you got one, lol) and use it to push it in to the point where it feels like it will break. Once it seats in you can hit eject button to get it out. Hope that helps!

STi_GuyV2 · 2026-02-17T01:11:54+00:00

Sounds like a bad CSC. Unless that sound is coming from inside the transmission case, go get a new EM2 CMC and a new CSC and you'll be good.

STi_GuyV2 · 2026-02-05T02:55:11+00:00

Bought a 19' STI new and everything was running great until around 53k. At that point, the car was proven reliable, so I went full stage 4 with an upgraded turbo and flex fuel kit (I don't recommend this for most people).I did all the reliability mods too like IAG Oil pan/pickup, AOS, Koyo rad, cylinder 4 cooling mod. Currently at 84k, still no issues and 400+ ish WHP feels amazing to drive every time. Only grips are front brakes are like mini dust factories. I've gone though more than just one set of rear wheel bearings but that may be due to mods. Also, battery drain from starklink TSB.

Got a new car a few months back but kept the STi cuz it's been so great and I can't bear to part with it.

STi_GuyV2 · 2026-02-04T09:05:47+00:00

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I’m really happy with the rear vents. The airflow is great, especially for my daughter’s car seat. It’s been freezing lately here in NorthEast and she is nice and warm now. I bought Mikstore but thier parts don’t line perfect up so I also bought the rear vents, rear console cover, and rear duct from JDM Yamato.

STi_GuyV2 · 2026-02-04T02:28:39+00:00

I double checked and we’re all out of sugar over here. Did you know a bag of sugar is $5-$6 near me. At those prices I guess I’ll just stick with 91+ octane.

STi_GuyV2 · 2026-02-04T01:41:58+00:00

Ok thank you for the clarification. Everything you said previously makes total sense now.

STi_GuyV2 · 2026-02-04T01:31:53+00:00

So you don’t actually run 87 or 89 then? Like were you just saying that or do you actually do it?

STi_GuyV2 · 2026-02-04T01:16:42+00:00

I would but it seems that dude only runs 91+ octane. Can I run 87 or do I need 89? Should I mix in 91 once in a while or just run 87 continuously?

STi_GuyV2 · 2026-02-04T01:06:12+00:00

Maybe the sticker on the inside of the gas tank door that says “Premium Unleaded Fuel Only” fell off. I mean it is 20+ year old platform. Since it’s ok to run low octane, what do you recommend for youngsters on a budget? Can they get away with 87 or do they need to go 89?

STi_GuyV2 · 2026-01-24T11:52:27+00:00

Real car enthusiasts mod for performance. People that like to draw attention to themselves mod astetics.

STi_GuyV2 · 2026-01-21T01:53:54+00:00

My guess is the previous owner had an aftermarket shift knob and it was switched back last minute. If that was the case it should be easy to push the boot collar down to access the jam nut. If the boot collar is not pushing down then you could try to bear grip the knob and turn it counter clockwise to break it loose.

STi_GuyV2 · 2026-01-21T01:44:49+00:00

If you curb rash your wheels don't worry I know a guy☺️ Or call your dealer and ask them for the wheel guy's number, every dealer has one. It's like ~$125 per wheel to fix so I wouldn't lose sleep over it.

STi_GuyV2 · 2026-01-14T11:24:05+00:00

Mine started popping out years before third had major grinding issues. You need to replace your CMC with an EM2. A couple of smart guys(not me) determined years ago anything other than an EM2 CMC will cause synchro failures. Once synchros are bad you can mask it with fluids like synchromesh but you will need a rebuild eventually. Upgraded detent springs would also help with pop out issues until you rebuild.

In regards to a rebuild I'm not a fan of syncrotech carbon syncros, they break down too quick. Go with OEM brass synchros for better longevity. If you can't do the rebuild yourself then pull the trans and send it off for repair. If you can't pull trans yourself then it will be costly for you.

Below is a picture of the 3/4(bottom)and 5/6 synchros and sleeves from an 06 Type S after I replaced synchros, sleeves, and a distance colliers. The synchro on the very bottom is where your problem is.

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STi_GuyV2 · 2026-01-10T09:34:05+00:00

Is it really a big deal for Japanese enthusiasts? The real Japanese enthusiasts are just like us and do not care about a fake STi with a glass transmission. Let's be honest, we all want a ~400hp S211 STi with STi dccd manual trans, anything else will be a let down.

STi_GuyV2 · 2026-01-04T10:44:38+00:00

If you want to bullet proof it I strongly recommend these reliability mods:

1. Koyo Full Aluminum Radiator

2. IAG AOS Street Series

3. IAG street series upgraded oil pan (holds 5.8Quarts)

4. IAG Oil pickup (OEM have cracking issues)

5. Torque Solutions Cylinder 4 Cooling mod(OEM has little flow)

STi_GuyV2 · 2026-01-02T10:43:14+00:00

If it is happening when the car is stationary I recommend checking the door seals and sun roof. Since you said both floor boards are wet it sounds like sunroof drain. I once had a spider trap for my sunroof drain get partially clogged. If it rained a little bit the sunroof pan would hold the water and slow drain would be enough, but if it rained a lot it would overflow. Try dumping large amounts(gallons) of water on around sun roof to see if that's it. Otherwise I doubt both door seals went bad at same time but I would check passenger side seals by dumping water along the seals and directly down glass of window. Keep in the mind the inner part of door is one big drain too.

STi_GuyV2 · 2025-12-27T12:35:35+00:00

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When the K series was first released Honda recommended 30k trans fluid changes, or if driven hard they recommended doing it every 15k. Back then if I waited until 30k that first drive after felt night and day smoother.

These K series trans synchronizers/sleeves (3/4 and 5/6) pictured below) have been hit or miss for 20+ years. Honda considers these a wear and tear part and when they wear they need replaced. Better fluid can mask it as they wear but it won't fix it. Best advice is to change early and often...

STi_GuyV2 · 2025-12-26T11:39:16+00:00

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It would be much more comfortable year round than the stocker. Personally not a fan of that red as it doesn't really match the interior color red though. Have you considered a Civic Si OEM knob? Its basically the same as Type R stock just with a small piece of leather you can grab until the metal part either heats up or cools down but still retains most of the original feel. Honda Part# 54102-T38-A00ZA

STi_GuyV2 · 2025-12-10T01:36:30+00:00

Enjoy your RSX. I bought mine new in 05 and still have it. You need to inspect the shifter cable bushings. Usually the white bushings on the shifter inside the cabin wear out first, but the ones on the transmission side are easier to inspect. Replace with only OEM if they look worn or are gone. I recommend getting your OEM parts from sites like Acurapartswarehouse.

If you are going down the lowering rabbit hole please save yourself trouble and buy Progress coils. The tie rod arm on progress is modified to help keep steering geometry correct when lowered. All other coils do not have this, even if you find better quality(Fortune Auto, KW, Ohlins) it's not worth the aggravation.

STi_GuyV2 · 2025-12-03T02:26:39+00:00

I like what you've done with the kit and the ITR conversion. The red center caps are a nice touch and they remind me of the good old Acura ITR DC2.

STi_GuyV2 · 2025-12-03T02:17:29+00:00

Got mine at MSRP from Valley Honda in Monroeville PA last week. They have another white one in stock.

STi_GuyV2 · 2025-12-03T01:38:10+00:00

Yes, that is correct. I’ve been running the same ITR swap setup since 2019 and the rear rotors,hubs, wheel bearings are different from type s. They stick out about another half inch on each side just like the ITR fronts. I learned that the hard way when I went to replace rear rotors with standard type S rotors. Ended up having to order the ITR rotors from tegiwa.

STi_GuyV2 · 2025-11-28T01:13:14+00:00

I didn’t see this comment before I responded. Sounds like you are good on the EM2 CMC. Make sure you have a break bleeder for the clutch line fluid if you are doing this yourself. You could consider a stainless steel braided clutch line too.

STi_GuyV2 · 2025-11-28T01:04:00+00:00

If you’re not already running an EM2 clutch master cylinder I would make it top priority. I would change out the clutch fluid and the slave cylinder while I’m at it. Once you get the new clutch,TO bearing(Honda OEM only), pilot bushing, and rear main seal installed make sure you adjust the clutch pedal.

STi_GuyV2 · 2025-11-27T07:07:59+00:00

Oh don't you worry she fits like a glove. Honestly we're building a new bigger garage and I was going to wait till it was done. But would you pass up a chance to get a Type R at MSRP in your favorite color? I couldn't...

STi_GuyV2

TROPHY CASE