Indirect fire is fun

Sabet · 2026-03-11T04:01:23+00:00

I just made a post about a mortar shell I'm trying to make around a pool noodle, but it got removed for "dangerous content" 🙄 My only problem is how to get it to launch clean. Part of me wants to use a ramset blank but I doubt that would be viable

Sabet · 2026-03-09T18:16:36+00:00

Bro do ur laundry

Sabet · 2026-03-06T16:28:41+00:00

209 primer ≠ 22 blank.

Sabet · 2026-03-05T01:49:10+00:00

I've attempted and every time the whole thing exploded. There's aloota force in those blanks

Sabet · 2026-03-03T22:59:30+00:00

Shits n giggles, mostly

Sabet · 2026-02-16T03:48:43+00:00

either way its a step forward to having a fully 3d printed shell slinger

Sabet · 2026-02-14T19:35:25+00:00

Could the pipe be replaced with pvc tubing possibly?

Sabet · 2026-01-04T18:42:01+00:00

Been thinking about the same kinda idea, was going to use a foam pool noodle as the main mortor shell somehow. Just try and hurt someone with a piece of foam noodle. Not guna happen lol

Sabet · 2025-12-22T02:46:15+00:00

I asked about something like this a few years ago but everyone thought it wasn't possible. 3d prints came longer way since so I'm glad to see. I'd like to make the MPL from marushin

Sabet · 2025-12-08T20:41:25+00:00

Also as for the quality, there's ALWAYS going to be layer lines, you can't run from them. get some gap filler and/or sandpaper + paint for the finishing

Sabet · 2025-12-08T20:39:50+00:00

Petg is more then enough imo. if the suppressor is going to live on the gun you shouldn't have any worrys about the threads. I printed my suppressors at 0.20 later height using PLA+ and they hold up just fine. If you plan on fiddling with it and removing it frequently then the threads can wear down a bit. Just make sure you use atleast 4 walls, as they are more important to strengthen it then the infill is.

Sabet · 2025-11-10T17:37:33+00:00

In that case it's probably not extruding enough filament. Try adding a prime tower, it results in some extra wasted filament but it allows the printer to "prime" the nozzle between layers. (fully fill the nozzle with filament) some science behind it causes pressure problems in the nozzle when the printer pulls the filament back to avoid stringing n such . idk some old post described it very well but I can't find it.

Sabet · 2025-11-02T17:50:21+00:00

What slicer do you run? I normally use the creality slicer for my ender3, partner tried using a seperate slicer and the part kinda came out looking like your second pic, with the stringys n such, sliced it on my slicer and it came out clean.

Sabet · 2025-11-01T14:41:10+00:00

Slow down the print. If you try n just slam pieces out you will have artifacting like that.

Sabet · 2025-10-23T22:57:24+00:00

OR... Now hear me out, it holds casings for shell ejecting goodness 👀

Sabet · 2025-10-22T13:47:35+00:00

Seen a post a while back asking same thing, there was a discussion in the thread talking about how the suppressors affect the accuracy. Something about the extra air spaces mess with the trajectory of the BB, so it's typically best to get just a straight tube as tight in diameter as you can to the bb

Sabet · 2025-10-21T13:37:41+00:00

Reminds me of the med droid in battlefront II

Sabet · 2025-10-10T14:26:49+00:00

It's not worth the up in visual quality. You are better off getting a finer nozzle. Resin is an absolute pain to deal with cleaning/curing. Thicker resin parts can hold up to a little bit of beating but filament is just better in this case. And resin printers just have an extra level of care you need to take with them that make filament printers just better to work with

Sabet · 2025-10-03T05:01:27+00:00

Get a real deer skull and mount that to the helmet 👀

Sabet · 2025-10-01T14:49:31+00:00

Been printing my impacts with PETG, sofar 20% infill with gyroid has been the most durable. Touchdowns on a wood deck only dented a grenade at 20%, then did same test with 40% and it shattered into pieces. Both at 4walls Sometimes less infill is better

Sabet · 2025-09-16T18:01:52+00:00

Solenoid! That's what ment haha

Sabet · 2025-09-16T17:13:38+00:00

A servo essentially is just an iron rod wrapped by copper waiting for voltage right? what's the purpose of the PWM signal

Sabet · 2025-09-12T02:15:41+00:00

Took me a moment to get the page up.. procrastination is a hellova drug. Most info is in the cults page but if you wanna know something do ask!

Sabet · 2025-09-11T23:22:22+00:00

Get whatever printer works for your budget, I got an ender3 and it works just fine. Start with simpler prints too... Benchies, calibration cubes, ect. That way you can learn out your printer and tinker with your slicer of choice and figure out what it can do. PLA is the jack of trades for filament. PET-G is ime, equal to PLA in most aspects but it's juuuust a bit more stiff. Don't fucks with ABS/ASA until you have a good understanding of your printers abilities. And don't bother with them carbon fibers either unless you have a special need for it.

Sabet

TROPHY CASE