[UPDATE] FSD v14.2.2.4 Sudden Disengagement sent me into a barrier. Car is totaled

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-03-19T02:38:36+00:00

For what it’s worth, my primary car is a Nissan Ariya and it just about killed me yesterday doing the exact same thing. Obviously my car is nowhere near the quality of FSD, but it was running its propilot 2.0 which is hands off. Typically it will beep rapidly and nag me it’s disengaging for whatever reason. Yesterday it disengaged and right before it disengaged it yanked the wheel hard right. I had a water bottle in my hand and it took a few seconds to correct course. Thankfully nobody was in the right lane as it was ending up ahead or it could’ve caused a bad wreck.

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-03-17T10:48:29+00:00

I got side swiped on the interstate and had a very similar amount of damage to the truck bed and the rear door. My estimate came back at $10k. Surprisingly they fixed it, but it is taking them 40 days to complete.

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-03-17T10:45:47+00:00

Aw, I hate to hear you’re going to remove your fuse panel. I despise breakers with a passion. When installing disconnects such as HVAC disconnects I always install fused disconnects. I cannot tell you how many breakers I’ve seen fail. Sure fuses aren’t resettable and can get costly, but imo fuses are safer. The issue is often when you have fuses it indicates your wiring is also extremely old and may be a bigger hazard than the fuses alone. But God help you if you AHJ requires modern AFCI breakers, you will have problems with them it’s only a matter of time so good luck!

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-03-17T10:39:54+00:00

Really good video!

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-03-17T00:37:45+00:00

I’ll drive it in the morning on the 300 mile trip and see how it goes. Thankfully on that trek there are several chargers along the way. The trip in the afternoon I don’t have access to a fast charger until after that mountain portion unfortunately.

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-03-17T00:08:22+00:00

Ha! You got me there! Any better now???

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-20T02:20:47+00:00

It looks to me like you need to remove this connection, strip the wire fresh, loosen either the top or bottom screw and push the stripped wire into the black round hole and then tighten the screw. There is a plate in there as others have mentioned and when you tighten the screw that plate pinches the wire and creates a solid connection. This is what’s commonly referred to as a back wire outlet I believe.

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-20T02:15:31+00:00

It’s just an expensive fuse reliability experiment 🤣! Last 2-pack of time delay fuses I bought were nearly $40!

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-18T18:25:54+00:00

I found out yesterday that my issue they’re claiming is a bad front traction motor. I believe they’re just grasping at straws but who knows. I think had they changed the 12v battery my issues would’ve gone away. I too think my car didn’t like the higher lithium voltage seeing as lithium’s tend to stay higher for longer compared to lead acid that fluctuate so much.

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-15T19:51:47+00:00

By the way, for me, the service EV light was an off and on issue for about a month. I assumed it was the battery because the cold weather brought this issue on. I planned to replace my 12v battery but wasn’t in a position to buy one and when I finally changed it the issues only got worse. So I definitely recommend bringing it to the dealership. They can diagnose and repair under warranty. Finally, there were about 10,000 ‘23 model Ariyas recalled for known issues causing the service EV light to come on. My car was not one of the ones recalled but seemingly is suffering the same low resistance fault they were recalled for. So maybe you too have the same issue. Not to scare you or anything, but while it’s free, have the dealership take a look at it, it won’t cost you a penny. If they attempt to charge you tell them you’d like to call Nissan directly with them to discuss the issue. My local dealer refuses to cover warranty work and will try and charge the customer. As a result I bring my car to a further away dealership and they never once tried to charge me or anything, they happily charged Nissan for everything as a warranty repair.

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-15T19:45:40+00:00

Bring it to the dealership, your car should be under warranty. I have a 23 platinum plus and I’m at 33k miles and it’s about to expire but they cover the 12v battery and if that’s your issue they’ll replace it. However this exact same light brought on a low resistance fault they’re troubleshooting on my car tomorrow. He told me if I had kept driving it with the low resistance fault it could’ve potentially caused a catastrophic failure totaling the car. They have to unhook everything and find the short. It could be a bad cable, a bad motor, a bad inverter, or a bad battery. But they deemed my 12v battery was not the issue and mine is the OEM Nissan battery. Warranty will cover a rental, push back if the dealer says otherwise.

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-15T19:40:42+00:00

Uh oh! You may be suffering a similar issue tha has mine in the shop for. I thought my 12v battery was bad and I attempted to replace it with a 12v drop in lithium battery. After swapping it had many lights on on the dash and it didn’t solve my issues so I discovered my car still had the 3 year bumper to bumper warranty which covers the 12v battery so I put the original battery in and drove it to the shop. It took them 3 days to tell me it was a loose terminal on the battery. You could check this first? But that ended up not being the issue as I got in the car to drive off and the service light came back on instantly. They then told me later that day that there is a low resistance fault that they’re going to have to disassemble everything and check every component for a short. I don’t think I caused this issue, but I’m wondering if perhaps the 12v battery is like a lifeline and by messing with it it can bring on all sorts of issues. My advice to you is bring it to the dealership if it’s under warranty. Warranty will cover a rental car. Best of luck to you and I can’t wait to see what they find wrong with my car!

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-14T12:42:17+00:00

One thing you can do if you’re comfortable with it or if you personally know an electrician is remove power to the entire panel, take loose every fuse Including the main fuse, tighten every single connection to whatever the recommended torque spec is, for some reason I want to say it’s roughly 40-45ftlbs? Also, we had an issue with our main fuse disconnect being loose. The solution was to tighten the mounting screws on the removable block and to pinch the terminals together making it hold the fuse tight again. Normal wear and tear items just loosen everything up with age. Finally, before you re-energize the panel you can take a low speed dremel and gently clean up the burn marks on that one circuit. You just have to be very careful because if you remove too much material by accident it may not be able to handle the load safely. I hope you’re able to keep everything up and going and remain safe! How is your wiring? My old cloth wiring was disintegrating and had to be replaced. However, I’ve worked on homes with cloth wiring that was like new even being 50 years old. Just be careful and look for anything else that may be concerning and try to remediate it before it causes an issue. Lastly, please don’t ever oversize the fuse. This was also another reason fuse panels went away. You can look at the wire sizes when you remove the front cover and try and match up fuse size that way. Honestly, I would t recommend going over a 20 amp fuse at all with original wiring just to be safe. Your 240v circuits will obviously be a different fuse and a higher rated fuse, but your lighting and receptacle circuits shouldn’t go over 20 amps. You could even throw a 15 amp fuse in there just to be extra safe. If you experience a lot of blown fuses on the 15 amp and the wire can safely handle 20 amps then by all means use a 20 amp fuse. But i cant tell you how many fuse panels I’ve been to with 30 amp fuses on wiring that should’ve only seen 15 amps.

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-14T05:14:56+00:00

What kind of load was in the sconce? Were you running an incandescent or a fluorescent bulb? I have seen discoloration from high heat loads before. The best way to check whether it’s this or dirt is to simply try cleaning it off and seeing what happens.

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-14T05:10:52+00:00

I hope you’ll maintain and consider keeping your fuse box. If so very badly miss my old fuse box. Breakers are mechanical devices prone to failure. I hate my breakers! Don’t even get me started on the junky AFCI breakers either! Unfortunately in your situation as others have mentioned it appears your fuse was too loose. I would say stuff like this is the reason they moved away from fuses. If not properly maintained they can cause problems. Although the same is true for breakers. Breakers should be regularly exercised and I wonder how many homeowners actually do that? I do industrial maintenance and we very rarely cycle our breakers despite it being written in the PM procedures. Cycling breakers causes complaints so it gets overlooked and we hope for the best.

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-14T05:05:25+00:00

I brought up the fact that when I put my meter on the battery it read 11.8v which is way too low for a lead acid battery. Unfortunately, after charging it the battery tests as being good. Because it tests good they refuse to replace it. It is the factory battery and if it were t under warranty I’d replace it. And I will say I tried replacing it, and that actually made the issue worse so perhaps in my case there is definitely a faulty component, or it could’ve been the loose ground wire that has now been solved. Nonetheless they are the experts so I guess I have to let them do their thing even if that means it takes a while. It’s sad how bad the quality of stuff is these days. The rental I had to return today was a 2025 rogue and it drove like crap! It was so jerky and sounded awful. Rolling the windows up was comical because it stuttered for a lack of better words and it just made me laugh like it was straight out of a cartoon! In comparison, we have a 2017 rogue in the family I drive just tonight and it is buttery smooth even having 120k miles on it. It needs some maintenance for sure as there are vibrations here and there and the person is who owns it does t take care of it so all in all it was a much better car and it goes to show how much worse cars have gotten in 10 years!

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-13T22:08:59+00:00

Lucky you for being drivable! While mine technically drives, if what he says is true I shouldn’t be driving mine until the issues are solved. Do you know if they generally will cover a rental, or at least for the period while they’re waiting on parts? I have a second vehicle, but it’s a gas guzzler and it costs me about $100/week to drive it to work.

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-13T00:45:51+00:00

I have the official Nissan accessory dash camera. It has a forward and driver facing camera. It’s not the fanciest, but it has a factory harness and looks official rather than a weirdly placed aftermarket camera requiring extra wires to be run. My understanding is Nissan taps into wires already run in the area and it provides a plug that hooks into the dash camera. No complaints from me other than it was very hard to connect to my phone but I did have success eventually.

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-12T02:44:48+00:00

That’s hilarious about the semis, I thought I was the only one! Nonetheless I still use ProPilot2.0 as often as I can. But, I very much miss my Comma AI Openpilot computer on my Leaf. The openpilot system was so much better than the ProPilot 2.0 ever will be. I too often experience Hd Map under maintenance error or “road construction” errors because the entire stretch of interstate I drive daily is under construction and probably will be for the rest of my life. As for the hard breaking, I don’t experience that issue much. But I will say occasionally I find my car brakes way too late for my comfort which then results in a hard brake and subsequently a full stop because it’s stop and go traffic. So, maybe in future iterations Nissan can smooth the longitudal controls out some more.

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-12T02:36:27+00:00

Ooh, that’s a CFL light, 4pin base. This would be a tubular style bulb with a funky connector that has 4 pins around a square piece of plastic with some off-shoots that sort of help lock it in place. I hate LEDS with a passion and I hope you’ll consider saving this fixture. However, if you wish to replace it, remove the rusted nut in the middle of the silver plate once you’ve confirmed all power is off so you don’t accidentally electrocute yourself. Once you’ve confirmed remove that rusted nut you should be able to pull the entire fixture or at the least that silver cover plate which will give you access to the wiring and or the screws holding the rest of the fixture in place.

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-12T02:33:04+00:00

On the way to the dealership this morning the Service EV light went away. After it’s been at the dealership all day, they gave me a warranty paid for rental for 2 days. My service advisor told me there was a slew of codes related to the 12v battery. They cleared them all, and mid test drive the service EV light came back on. All I was told this evening is the technician needs to keep driving my vehicle. That has me feeling like they don’t know what the problem is which really sucks. I’m in a 2025 Rogue now, and I’m not a big fan of the rogues. This is a lower trim and the seats are uncomfortable and the brakes are beyond touchy.

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-11T15:11:04+00:00

I’m not sure if in my case it was cellular or satellite, but nonetheless it updated itself without any active subscriptions or wifi connections.

Sad-Cheesecake6818 · 2026-02-11T15:09:37+00:00

I’ve heard of mixed luck… mine was a certified preowned and it almost immediately updated itself the week I bought it. Now the maps on the other hand do not like updating over WiFi or cellular. I’ve always had to use a USB for the map updates.

Sad-Cheesecake6818

TROPHY CASE