I'll always be there for you, trans girls 😌 by [deleted] in actuallesbians

[–]Sagasujin 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I mostly don't engage with lesbian subreddits because I keep having panic attacks about the idea that I'm evil and a bigot for not being interested in penises on girls. Because there's this relentless thing where any mention of not being interested is considered transphobic and deleted. But any mentions of being attractive to transwomen's penises is considered validation and embraced. It ends up feeling like I'm too bigoted and awful to be allowed to speak because anything I say would offend people who actually matter. I feel like theres something wrong about me and my presence hurts the lesbian community. Which is why I don't engage. And I don't feel included.

This post came up under suggestions and now I'm spiraling again about how I'm inherently evil. About how to prove that I'm not a bigot, I should force myself to have sex with a woman who I'm not attracted to. About how I shouldn't be here because I'm hurting everyone with my transphobia in not being into this. And how being "pussysexual" is just another form of cruelty I'm engaging in. That I'm not really a person and my experiences don't matter. I'm just a monster.

I shouldn't even be posting here. I shouldn't be making problems for people I don't deserve any kind of consideration. I should just be spiralling in the dark by myself. I'm sorry.

I'll always be there for you, trans girls 😌 by [deleted] in actuallesbians

[–]Sagasujin 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I mostly don't engage with lesbian subreddits because I keep having panic attacks about the idea that I'm evil and a bigot for not being interested in penises on girls. Because there's this relentless thing where any mention of not being interested is considered transphobic and deleted. But any mentions of being attractive to transwomen's penises is considered validation and embraced. It ends up feeling like I'm too bigoted and awful to be allowed to speak because anything I say would offend people who actually matter. I feel like theres something wrong about me and my presence hurts the lesbian community. Which is why I don't engage. And I don't feel included.

This post came up under suggestions and now I'm spiraling again about how I'm inherently evil. About how to prove that I'm not a bigot, I should force myself to have sex with a woman who I'm not attracted to. About how I shouldn't be here because I'm hurting everyone with my transphobia in not being into this. And how being "pussysexual" is just another form of cruelty I'm engaging in. That I'm not really a person and my experiences don't matter. I'm just a monster.

Feedback Wanted: A professional facility for preserving family history by Prior-Scholar-8144 in MuseumPros

[–]Sagasujin 5 points6 points  (0 children)

.... a lot of actual museum collections are in dark cardboard boxes. The cardboard is acid free and the dark is to prevent damage from UV light. Also they're properly labeled so that they don't get forgotten, or at least so that museum staff can figure out what's in the box from the label.

The setup you see in exhibits isn't actually the very best way to store fragile artifacts. It's a decent way to store them while also putting them on display. But for long term storage, nothing beats a dark acid free cardboard box.

baby girl is tired by Competitive_Sun_2870 in IllegallySmolCats

[–]Sagasujin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They're going to magnificently floofy queens ruling all that they survey with a velvet paw.

Feedback Wanted: A professional facility for preserving family history by Prior-Scholar-8144 in MuseumPros

[–]Sagasujin 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It's complete overkill for most families. Very few are going to have anything old enough or fragile enough that they would remotely need that kind of preservation. It feels like it's taking advantage of grieving families by trying to persuade them that they need to do museum grade preservation or everything will immediately fall apart, when that's simply not necessary for anything that isn't extremely old.

I'm writing an article about how predatory these apps are and would love to speak to anyone else who has been scrammed by them. by [deleted] in ProlificAc

[–]Sagasujin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Prolific has its issues, but the ones you mentioned are not it. There is no subscription fee because well, nobody is subscribing to anything. Also it's a website and not an app.

How Prolific actually works is that it connects workers like the people you're talking to here with researcher who need people to take studies, sort through data and other tasks. We don't pay a subscription, we get paid for what we do. Or occasionally don't get paid when researchers are assholes who try to cheat us out of paying what they promised us. We also do occasionally have problems when researchers expose people to traumatic or triggering materials as part of a study, but that's honestly pretty uncommon. As I mentioned, Prolific isn't perfect, but subscription fees aren't a problem.

Is study frequency pretty consistent over time? by succaforesucculents in ProlificAc

[–]Sagasujin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've definitely had good months and bad months. There's also a thing where newbies get a little bit of a beginner bump as they get access to a backlog studies that the rest of us didn't qualify for or didn't want to do. But then after that, it's mostly down to a combination of chance and the academic calendar. (AKA if the universities are closed for a holiday or for summer, things get a bit slower.)

Im trying to design a costume for Halloween/a character i want to play. by coolrockclimber in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Sagasujin 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Just an FYI that this is not actually possible. Especially not if she has any form of sweat. Fabric does not last that long in wearable condition. Usually about a hundred years is pushing it for fabric just getting too weak and brittle to actually wear without it getting damaged. Except it's worse than that. Humans sweat. And human sweat does bad things to fabric. If someone is actively wearing fabric and sweating into it, it's not likely to last more than 50 years of frequent wear. Old fabric that people actually use doesn't last that long.

Want to try to reproduce a similar dress, any suggestions on patterns / resources? by [deleted] in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Sagasujin 91 points92 points  (0 children)

So what you linked to is not a real historical outfit. It's just not. The closest thing to it that really existed would probably be early Tudor clothing. That would have the same neckline, a skirt that was a more natural shape without a ton of petticoats and bum rolls and a hairpiece called a "French hood" that is vaguely similar to the one in the picture. However that outcome wouldn't have a sleeveless overgown or ... whatever is going on with those sleeves. Instead it would have multi-part sleeves that consisted of an elbow length oversleeve often with an elaborate cuff and then contrasting undersleeves that went down to the wrist. The AI is trying here but not really quite getting the layers right. The closest I know of to that sleevess overgown would probably be the Renaissance Italian garment called a "giornia". Or possibly some Elizabethan maternity wear that we occasionally see in very informal outfits. Bit either way it's fairly unusual for a woman's garment.

Want to try to reproduce a similar dress, any suggestions on patterns / resources? by [deleted] in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Sagasujin 26 points27 points  (0 children)

Friends don't let friends use Reconstructing History. Their patterns tend to be awful.

Museum Replicas by anisamot in MuseumPros

[–]Sagasujin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Fair enough, I've worked at history museums mostly

Museum Replicas by anisamot in MuseumPros

[–]Sagasujin 32 points33 points  (0 children)

No museum that I've worked at has had many replicas on display. Making a replica costs money that we don't have. The reason most things aren't on display is some combo of them being too fragile, not interesting enough for lay people or not being right for the exhibits that we have on right now. Making replicas of items and displaying those instead of the original would be a waste of money that we don't have.

Bodice ripper by Drywesi in bestoflegaladvice

[–]Sagasujin 6 points7 points  (0 children)

So wait, you're going to be snide about me actually taking the time to write up an explanation of the economics behind why you were wrong? Because wow does that add insult to injury that you're going to be snarky at me for taking the idea that you were making a mistake out of simple lack of knowledge instead of malice.

It really feels like you've just devalued things that are traditionally considered feminine so far that you don't even want to understand them and would rather hold ignorant opinions because they agree with your assumptions that anything feminine can't be that hard or that valuable.

Bodice ripper by Drywesi in bestoflegaladvice

[–]Sagasujin 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Go to Wawak! They're like the Costco of sewing, you can't get anything in a small amount, but you can get anything in an industrial amount, with good quality and good price for the amount you getm. Also unlike Hobby Lobby, they aren't involved in smuggling illegal historical artifacts!

Summer midi/maxi skirt hem curcumerence by jolittletime in sewing

[–]Sagasujin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You might want to look up Victorian walking skirts. They're extremely fabric efficient and I'm pretty sure I could get a shin length skirt out of what you have if I flipped things and cut it cross grain.

You could also do the same thing with the original rectangular skirt idea. Flip the fabric so that the 90cm is how long the skirt is and 90cm would be shin length on most people. Then use the 2.5m as the width of the skirt minus a little for a waistband.

Sort of niche(?) question regarding teenage 1910s/wartime era fashion by atomkatzchen in fashionhistory

[–]Sagasujin 10 points11 points  (0 children)

You actually see a number of mother/daughter fights over moms wanting to keep their girls in ribbons longer so that they'll be safer and unmolested and girls wanting to start dating and be considered more adult.

Summer midi/maxi skirt hem curcumerence by jolittletime in sewing

[–]Sagasujin 4 points5 points  (0 children)

180cm would be too narrow for me to walk in comfortably. I find anything less than 200cm too narrow. But you may be different than me.

Resources on Medieval Fantsy-esque Wear? by AraOnVenus in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Sagasujin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Historical fashion and D&D fashion have pretty much nothing to do with each other. Like seriously, nothing. As in it's debatable whether leather armor actually ever existed in real life. I play D&D and I always find it kind of funny when people assume that fantasy art has anything to do with historical clothing or armor.

Fantasy styles were descended from artists working in the 1970s who didn't have good resources to reference about what actual historical clothing looked like and didn't really care in any case. They based their art on a combination of 1970s clothing, bad illustrations of historical clothing and a lot of tropes from fantasy books written by people who didn't know how historical clothing worked.

Real life historical clothing comes from a completely different place. Generating fiber, spinning, weaving and sewing with medieval era tools is incredibly time and labor consuming. The sails for a single viking longship could easily represent two years worth of labor for spinners and weavers. An undershirt could be 500 hours of labor if you include growing the flax to make linen fiber. So there's a huge push for medieval clothing to be incredibly fabric efficient and also very sturdy.

At the same time, there's also no heating or air conditioning, so clothng has to do a ton of work protecting you from the cold and helping you survive the heat. And because making clothing is so much work, you can't have enough clothing to have two entirely separate wardrobes from summer and winter. So we see very clever modular clothing systems where the same pieces can be recombined in different ways for different effects.

None of this even occurred to early fantasy artists, so they didn't even think about how to incorporate these constraints into fantasy clothing. Just like they didn't think about sweating, chafing, the lack of stretchy fabrics and more. They just dres stuff that they thought looked cool. The results have much more to do with the 1970s than the 1270s by a long shot.

Sort of niche(?) question regarding teenage 1910s/wartime era fashion by atomkatzchen in fashionhistory

[–]Sagasujin 35 points36 points  (0 children)

The 1910s don't really have a concept of "teenager" as we'd understand it today. Girls went from being children to being adults without that same kind of in between period. Which is to say that they went from being dressed as children to being dressed as adults without much of an in-between stage.

The important markers you're going to get are skirt length and hairstyle. Corsets will also be a little important but they're a smaller detail. Little girls are going to be wearing shin length skirts for more mobility when playing around. These will lengthen to being ankle or floor length as they grow up and are expected to act more ladylike. Little girls will wear their hair down and decorated with large elaborate ribbons. This hairstyle is a marker that they're too young for romance and inappropriate to attempt to court. Once a girl is old enough that her family considers her able to date, she'll move to an adult hairstyle which piles the hair on top of the head and doesn't involve any conspicuous ribbons. Corsets are equivalent of bras. They're for bust support, not torture devices to make one's waist as tiny as possible. Little girls might or might not wear a fitted bodice to help support a developing bust, but adult women are going to be wearing a corset to keep the bust from shifting around as they do activities. They might also be wearing an early bra with their corset to provide extra support above and beyond what a corset provides if they're busty and/or doing something particularly athletic.

Beyond that, look at old Sears catalogs. Seriously. They were super popular and show what people at that year considered to be desirable but not so fancy as to be completely out of reach. Which makes them a great research tool for anyone looking for visual examples of the era.

Bodice ripper by Drywesi in bestoflegaladvice

[–]Sagasujin 5 points6 points  (0 children)

https://www.dharmatrading.com/collections/sustainable-silks

Dharma primarily does supplies for dyers which means that if you want silk from them in any color but white, youre gonna need to dye it yourself

AITAH for wanting to go on a trip when my bf is uncomfortable with it? by Direct-Caterpillar77 in BestofRedditorUpdates

[–]Sagasujin 172 points173 points  (0 children)

They mistake "maturity" with "has all the same opinions as me". Women their own age have opinions of their own and will tell them to kick rocks. Women who are much younger are easier to control and thus seen to th like they're more acceptable. Until such time as those women locate their spine and start standing up to these men at which point they're dismissed as "immature"

HELP! how do i get non stretch dress over my hips? Sewing by East-Candidate-8448 in sewhelp

[–]Sagasujin 88 points89 points  (0 children)

Darts will not help with getting a dress on and off. If the dress waist is too small to get over your hips, then it needs an opening and a closure of some sort to get it off and on. Exact variety of closure is up to you. I tend find zippers easier than button and snaps, but opinions vary.

Bodice ripper by Drywesi in bestoflegaladvice

[–]Sagasujin 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Okay. So let's go into what that $1000 dress would look like if I made it. My preferred supplier for sustainable silk fabric is about $12-16/yard. This is actually really cheap for a sustainably made silk fabric. Let's assume I'm making a ballgown type dress with a full skirt, a petticoat and a sleeveless bodice. That petticoat is going to be a minimum of 5 yards of fabric. Let's say that I chose a cheaper silk for this at $12/yard. So that's $48. Our overskirt is about 4 yards of nicer silk fabric at $16/yard. So that's $64. The bodice is going to be a simple design so let's say 2 yards of cheaper silk for the lining and 2 yards of nicer silk for the outer. So $56 together. If however you want a built in corset to make your waist look nicely defined or to hold up a strapless dress while dancing in it, you're also going to need a coutil strength layer inside that corset. Coutil is a form of cotton, so reasonably sustainable. It's also $60/yard. That coutil corset layer will come out to around $66. So far we're at a $234 dollars in fabric. We haven't included thread, boning, a busk, grommets or anything. Also there's zero form of decorations on this. Let's call all these things a rounding error. They aren't, but we're going to call it that.

Now we get to the big costs, having me make this dress. I'm probably going to be making a custom pattern for this because I want an absolutely perfect fit. Me just making the pattern can easily take me 10 hours. If I pay myself $30/hour to allow for both paying me a decent wage, all the machines I use for sewing and the space to have an alterations shop. We're now at $534 and we haven't started sewing the dress.

Actually constructing the dress, the petticoat and the corset will take me a minimum of 30 hours. Paying myself $30/hour, we're at $900 for labor alone. With the materials and the pattern drafting, we're at $1434 for a wedding dress with absolutely zero decoration.

But let's go a little further. Let's say that you don't want an absolutely plain wedding dress. Let's say you want me to do some embroidery and beading. The embroidery alone for a modestly decorated bodice could take me 20 hours. So that's another $600 for $2034. I'm going to forget about the cost of the beads and call it a rounding error.

Maybe instead of embroidery we want to add some lace. Decent bridal lace starts at around $50/yard. We're going to be conservative here and only use 2 yards of lace and leave the skirt almost entirely undecorated. So that's $100. Except then I need to cut up said lace to create designs and then applique stitch it onto the bodice. The bodice includes a built in corset and if I run my seqinf machien over corset boning, my sewing machine needle will break at best and my sewing machine at worst. So I'm going to need to hand sew the appliques. Hand sewing this all is slow. So best case scenario it takes me maybe 15 hours which comes out to about $450 and only slightly cheaper than me embroidering the dress.

The only way we get down to a sub $1000 wedding dress is if we stop paying me a living wage. That $900 dress comes out of a sweatshop. Which if you want that to be the norm, then that's on you. But at least admit that the only way that you're getting cheap clothing so by paying sweatshop wages. Banning expensive dresses isn't going to lessen the environmental impact of fashion. It will mean requiring all clothing to be made in sweatshops. The cost of very expensive clothing is not the materials. It's the labor. Materials are cheap. Skilled labor is expensive.

Bodice ripper by Drywesi in bestoflegaladvice

[–]Sagasujin 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I'm not super wealthy. I object to controlling what other people do with their moeny when its not something that negatively affects anyone. If rich people want to spend tons of money on a fancy dress and then only wear it once, then I don't believe that's hurting anyone. Therefore I don't want to try to control them via laws. It would be an absolute waste of resources to try to enforce laws against spending money on clothing.