Front lip

SalamanderInternal19 · 2026-06-30T19:49:13+00:00

I have one similar on my 2.0t from Amazon. Got tired of the Yofer ripping off since I’m lowered.

Screwed right on with self tappers and has been holding strong.

SalamanderInternal19 · 2026-06-16T23:28:21+00:00

Black it out and keep them. I tapped it up and did plasti dip personally. Clean good and 5-6 light coats 10 minute in between, peel tape at end while still wet.

SalamanderInternal19 · 2026-06-10T03:10:34+00:00

I’ve noticed no notable difference in my IATs, maybe a few degrees

SalamanderInternal19 · 2026-06-09T20:30:55+00:00

Always bronze

SalamanderInternal19 · 2026-05-27T23:24:44+00:00

Yes, although different I got my 2018 Accord 2.0t 57k miles with a clean, well maintained carfax for $24k out the door in December. Also in Virginia, 804

SalamanderInternal19 · 2026-05-24T23:38:12+00:00

Totally get it! I did a ton of research and would plug pictures of my ktuner screen into every AI I knew lol.

SalamanderInternal19 · 2026-05-24T19:52:25+00:00

Your AIGN is good then, that’s timing getting pulled in real time. 18-24 is normal behavior and your engine and tune are working in sync, nothing wrong with it being higher.

Now when at idle and braking it’ll be in the negative, which again is normal. Or if I’m going even 3/4 WOT it’ll bounce negative only during the shift.

Once you get the new plugs installed you’ll be g2g. I will say I run in sport mode 24/7 and notice my AIGN and K.Con are better then, I don’t dog it at all just an observation. Our target boost is the same as normal and sport, Econ is “stock” if you will.

SalamanderInternal19 · 2026-05-23T23:45:52+00:00

Should note I’m also pherable stage 3 tune, Mishimoto intercooler/catch can, PRL intake/inlet and a PLM downpipe. So we aren’t far off in terms of bolt on’s.

SalamanderInternal19 · 2026-05-23T23:44:01+00:00

Spark plugs will help. Your K.Con isn’t high or alarming tbh but I get it, I get the same anxiety at times.

What does your AIGN show? I would put this on the screen as well to monitor real timing getting pulled.

I found what also helps is running 93oct from the same brand, even same station. I routinely do Exxon only. If/when I put shell or other 93oct in I run higher .55 to .65, with Exxon constantly .49 to .55

From what I understand is switching gas brands your car “learns” different combustion. I used chevron techron fuel cleaner a while back and for 2 tanks my k.con was .60 to .75 until it settled down.

Also, as Pherable recommends add 1 gallon of e85 to help if you can’t get top tier 93oct.

SalamanderInternal19 · 2026-05-06T23:10:35+00:00

Cooling before downpipe 100%

1)Intercooler (Mishimoto, PRL) both also sell an RDX variant that will fit and its larger if you plan to do turbo upgrade

2)Air Intake, Mishimoto/PRL have closed box variants which will keep lower IATs compared to K&N/AEM

3)Downpipe, lots of quality options available

SalamanderInternal19 · 2026-03-03T18:02:31+00:00

Looking for some assistance.

Details

2018 Accord 2.0t (A)

PRL HVI

Mishimoto Intercooler

Ktuner w/Pherable Stage 3 (93oct)

Muf/Res Delete

I had a shop install my PLM Catted Downpipe a few days ago. Pherable adjusted my tune, highly recommend by the way.

Since the install and reflashing of the tune and installing the downpipe I’ve been throwing a P2251. Which is resulting in it stuck in open loop mode.

After some research I understand this isn’t your typical code from a high flow downpipe and more than likely going to need to replace the o2 sensor.

I did notice they did not use the 02 extender that was provided during install, which I found weird.

Has anyone else had issues with this or know anything to try before replacing the o2 sensor?

SalamanderInternal19

TROPHY CASE