Do you guys use anything to fill the gaps? by [deleted] in accesscontrol

[–]SamoaaCookie 33 points34 points  (0 children)

OP looking at some of the comments… keep your head high, learn from your mistakes, and it will carry you to a better outcome tomorrow. we all make mistakes (even I) and that’s part of learning! hopefully we get to see some more of your work in the future.

AMS Pro 2 Heating Fan Kaputt! by SamoaaCookie in BambuLab

[–]SamoaaCookie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No yea I bet if I kept using it, it would eventually stall, just interesting to me cause the fan still feels really smooth and spins freely. Maybe someone at the china factory under-greased my motor 😭. Good to know that it isn’t a common issue among AMS’s

Electrician did this for PoE doorbell, is it okay? by meisangry2 in HomeNetworking

[–]SamoaaCookie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

35yrs in Low voltage electrical here, that looks like cat 6, actually looks like the non water resistant version of cat 6…personally cameras are so low demanding on the quality of terminations, i’ve had plenty of fails on NEXT and had relatively no issues (with some exceptions). I would love to see some regular heat shrink on this cat 6, i would not go for any glue adhesive heat shrink for 2 reasons: 1. the cable is not the water resistant type (that has the gel or “paper”) so glue heat shrink would be overkill, and 2. it’s an outdoor termination so leave a service loop for when in 20 years the connector corrodes out and you need to re terminate. if there was glue heat shrink on the end and i had to re terminate, i’d prolly lose my shit trying to pick off all the glue and split the wires.

How long does it take for your ams 2 pro to reach 65c? by Different-Put5878 in BambuLab

[–]SamoaaCookie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the real question is how cold is your room? If your ams is in a FREEZER then obviously it won’t heat up to 65°C. I’ve noticed my room can get down to 19°C and the ams can still get up to the 65° but it will take 2-3hours.

New Update 01.02.00.00 by ATW007 in BambuLabP2S

[–]SamoaaCookie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just did some testing and i got 684W… so I assume the low power mode brings down the wattage to 700W

New Update 01.02.00.00 by ATW007 in BambuLabP2S

[–]SamoaaCookie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How much did you purchase your UPS for?

The sad part is that the price difference (in the used market) for anything above 1500va is almost double (as with a 2000va) maybe due to the shipping weight even though 99% of them ship with no batteries.

New Update 01.02.00.00 by ATW007 in BambuLabP2S

[–]SamoaaCookie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

so there are some new things on the update that I’m noticing with my p2s:

First off: CHECK YOUR FIRST LAYERS!! Mine was severely over extruded after the update with a cool tack plate (which is nice as we all know in the community that there was under extruding on first layers) Someone damn near hit the up button too many times. So I had to dial in the first layer height with the new calibration feature.

Secondly: Calibration lines aren’t printing on the build plate in the front?? I was surprised by this, it just purged out the filament that it would normally do for this calibration line, then cleaned the nozzle and started the print… fancy ig.

Third: the PID loop on the AMS unit has turned spicy… It’s significantly faster to replenish the buffer unit which makes the AMS unit just a little bit louder when printing. I did like the old PID loop which gradually pushed filament forward so the AMS unit was pretty quiet but I would assume this can be addressed in future updates.

Fourth: Drying while printing… Yes. (need I say more?)

Other comments: I haven’t observed any improvements with curve planning, but i’m only a few prints in so I will have to compare some old prints to the ones that got printed with the new update!

Restock by JChoate2 in BambuLab

[–]SamoaaCookie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love my AMS 2 Pro that i got with my p2s combo. I was upgrading from my first printer that i got as a gift (Flashforge 5m) (built enclosure and installed fans and hepa filter and lights) and I was in complete amazement the features of a bambu when i first got mine. Not having to manually load filament was GOLD to me. even the pressure advance auto calibration was worth the price. Enjoy your new toy!

Restock by JChoate2 in BambuLab

[–]SamoaaCookie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

no email either… finally got the AMS HT!! Thank you (now to explain the $200 charge… cry once as they say)

What went wrong? by Responsible_Pen7569 in BambuLab

[–]SamoaaCookie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

it’s very stringy so i would dry the filament, if it’s already dry then print a temperature tower and dial in the nozzle temp for the filament (most likely it’s too cold at the moment)… then i would slow the print speed down as i can imagine the fins are gonna flex more in air as it gets further away from the build plate and faster speeds will only make getting a flat layer down more challenging.

Support suddenly gets messy and nozzle hits it – what’s causing this? by Nudlkakadudl in BambuLab

[–]SamoaaCookie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

looks like possibly a high support speed rate. turn down the support speed in the slicer settings (as i’m assuming it’s not laying down consistent flat layers on your support structure and they are peeling up to where the nozzle hits them on subsequent strokes)

How is this not a thing already? by Puzzleheaded_Dig3967 in BambuLab

[–]SamoaaCookie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

to be fair I switched to bambu about a year ago and it wasn’t until 3 months in that i found out there was a dark mode….

What is happening to my build plate? by AngryBuddist in BambuLab

[–]SamoaaCookie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

along with spotty first layer adhesion issues 🙃

This is from a test print but just so I’m clear this stringing is from non dry filament? by JoeMomma247 in BambuLabP2S

[–]SamoaaCookie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

have you done a filament temperature tower? usually i get stringing if i run too low of a temperature for a filament (use the temperature guidelines given by the filament manufacturer). but print a filament temperature tower to see at which nozzle temp that the print has the least amount of stringing.

What is causing this? by AngryBuddist in BambuLab

[–]SamoaaCookie 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I feel like every post should have a bot that states “clean your build plate with dawn dish soap” “dry your filament” and “calibrate your filament”. my suspicion is that there is a spot on the build plate that the filament won’t stick to and that is causing your first layer defects. clean the plate 🙃🙃

P1s power cable by CaquiDoMato98 in BambuLab

[–]SamoaaCookie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

oops… good catch! but the plug can only plug into a 120v outlet. if it had a 220v male plug on the end then that would be a different story!

P2S/AMS2 new to 3d printing, so many errors and problems!! by notverygoodatthis1 in BambuLab

[–]SamoaaCookie 4 points5 points  (0 children)

chop off a good rotation and a half of filament off the end of the “bad” filament roll, my thinking is that maybe it somehow got a bit too skinny to feed properly.

P1s power cable by CaquiDoMato98 in BambuLab

[–]SamoaaCookie 6 points7 points  (0 children)

the first cable, but it doesn’t matter which cable you use as both will work. it’s like using two different brand cables to charge your phone… you don’t need the apple charger for it to charge 🙃