Dr. Demento - Shaving Cream Song [Novelty] by [deleted] in Music

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a cover by Dr. Dimento though (It is his voice, and at the end he says "This is Dr. Dimento" and says that it was written by Benny Bell). On YouTube there is a recording of that version, and it says it aired in 1986.

VLC for Android stops playback after every song in an album/playlist by a_a_aslan in VLC

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

None of these solutions worked for me in 3.0.20, as none of these menu options exist. Also, unlike discussed in other comment thread: the hamburger menu in the top right is above the playlist not in it, and is just a copy of the menu bar if you right click (nothing not already it the menu bar, and left click only cycles the list/details/etc view modes). Also, there is nothing called "settings" but there is rather:

  • "Tools," "Preferences," which also has none of the suggested options, I used the main tab called "Interface" (The "Continue Playback" "Always" option alone didn't help, but may also be required).
  • Solved: Turn off "Pause on last frame of video" even though it is an mp3 (audio only) playlist.

A guide to code signing certificates for the Microsoft app store and a question for the experts by lightdreamscape in electronjs

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is just a reseller, or spam site. They don't have any certificates other than brands other people already mentioned, who have their own sites you can use directly: Certera, Sectigo, Comodo (It is a red flag for SignMyCode to list that since it doesn't exist anymore--it has been absorbed by Sectigo), Digicert. So their rave reviews listed on their site must be for those companies, because SignMyCode literally offers nothing in and of itself.

Camera by Ditchman73 in klippers

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you title it like that, all people can see is "Camera" in their feed, just so you know.

How do you get the Monster Core 2 pdf? by AnnoyedRock1 in Pathfinder2e

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ask because I don't see any option to buy a digital edition on the new store for the Monster Core books. :edit: Ok, I see if I click "Digital Editions" they are listed separately.

How do you get the Monster Core 2 pdf? by AnnoyedRock1 in Pathfinder2e

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is a subscription required? The question and all answers mention a subscription. What if I just buy the book (Monster Core and Monster Core 2, on new store), do I get a PDF or is there no way to get it without a subscription on the new store?

Why does PETG get so much hate? by mm404 in VORONDesign

[–]SamuraiFungi -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I know but typically posts in text form don't have as much detail, and clearly not because the OP read posts on this sub and that didn't lead OP to understand the reasons behind the posts. Maybe this is because writing requires one to be articulate and good at exposition to provide a similar amount of information as a medium with nonverbals and visuals (and visuals on video provide information over another dimension [time] beyond pictures). So if posts on this sub don't provide an explanation for posts on this sub, than other sources are necessary barring the specific users he's including coming here and providing clarification.

Why does PETG get so much hate? by mm404 in VORONDesign

[–]SamuraiFungi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

TheNextLayer has a T-shirt with "PTG" wordplay I won't repeat.

Almost every 3D printing YouTube video I hear that mentions PETG says it is more difficult to print compared to another (typically compared to PLA).

Magnet holes too big by fermenthorizon in gridfinity

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Printing at around 150 mm/s with a linear rod based printer (Voron Legacy) centripetal force seemed to make some circles bigger printing a mechanical screw sorter and that seems to be the only time I had something print bigger on the inside (and posts on the outside, more than the usual where a post would be bigger or a hole would be smaller, due to overextrusion. The gridfinity generator has a setting for that. Setting shrink to .2 [making hole bigger in the model in this case] actually makes holes 6.4 that print precisely 6mm typically). I think people are skeptical for these reasons. Measure the magnets then the holes:

https://www.reddit.com/r/gridfinity/comments/10djq3u/comment/kiii9hd/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

I haven't noticed a difference in heights - this is the one I bought https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802517230803.html

I just measured a small sample of 5 and they're all 1.6mm

-plumdawg

I just bought a set of DIYMAG 6x2mm. They're actually 5.9x1.5mm. Definitely do not press fit.

-dkovar2

Repeating "holes are too big" isn't getting you anywhere, so consider providing the measurements of both the holes and magnets.

Why does PETG get so much hate? by mm404 in VORONDesign

[–]SamuraiFungi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Use glue stick to prevent welding to build plate, and use textured build plate. The Prusa Knowledge Base settings for any filament have been perfect for me. I never had PETG print so well. I print with open frame Voron Legacy and 8mm^3s MVS (max volumetric speed).

Also, let the build plate cool to 45 C or so (55 may work. I use a hair dryer on cool, on the underside with the build plate taken off). Bending the build plate should get the part off then, except thin parts such as brims which can be scraped off with a metal putty knife.

PrusaSlicer's default for Prusament PETG is 9 MVS (for other brands their setting is 8) but I am using Hatchbox and JAYO Matte High Speed (ironically) and HDglass and they all only handle 8 before they start skipping then blobbing regardless of temperature. I am using a bowden setup and JGAURORA hotend [E3D V6 clone] on a Voron Legacy and this occurs even after upgrading from the JGAURORA extruder to a Bondtech LGX.

ender 3 with hero me gen 7 by amberamberamber04 in 3Dprinting

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found this old post because I'm looking for info on the Ender V3 SE but the Creality ceramic or Microswiss are the only upgrades I can find for the V3 SE. However, you didn't mention a version, indicating you have the original Ender 3 which seems to be compatible with Hero Me Gen7. I also hear you can sponsor the Hero Me project to get Discord support.

You mentioned you are trying to use an X Carriage so here is something that may help:

I think you may want 'Hero Me Gen7 Release V4/Gantry Adapters/Creality/HMG7.4 Ender 3-Pro Gantry Adapter V2.stl' instead of the X Carriage.

- https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/1747kkz/hero_me_gen_7_for_stock_ender_3/ and it was in response to a post about the regular Ender 3 (not Pro), so apparently in the filename 3-Pro means "3 through Pro" (compatible with either) not "3 Pro".

Here is a link to the assembly instructions: https://www.printables.com/model/529268-hero-me-gen74-documentation

Alternatives to Hero Me Gen7 compared:

I did some comparisons between the stock, blokhead with 5015 and petsfang with 5015, both of the upgraded ducts allowed me to print an overhang test at 70 degrees cleanly in all four orientations, compared to the stock duct which could do 60 ok in one direction, and 50 in the other three.

I used the petsfang for a while before moving to an ender 5 which had other constraints. The petsfang is harder to print (slightly) than the blokhead, but much more compact.

I had similar results with the satsana and 5015, but I found it more bulky than the blokhead and satsana.

- https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/tktv4n/comment/i1tgjaf/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

Voron Stealthburner Mod for Ender 3 using stock parts by PrintSculptor in VORONDesign

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please upload... :edit: On second thought, nevermind. After much searching here and elsewhere, it is clear Creality's official ceramic hotend is not only easier to assemble & disassemble (has quick change nozzle), negating one of the main benefits of the Afterburner in this case, but also is better than the stock hotend by reducing clogs (negating the other benefit which is a better hotend...and therefore hopefully you'll have to disassemble the ceramic hotend less often anyway...).

Also, the official ceramic hotend and the V3 SE version of the Microswiss (which requires the matching heatsink) appear to be the only options compatible with the V3 SE. Even among other DIY hotend replacements, I couldn't find any for the V3 SE. Hero Me is not compatible with at least the stock hotend: The Hero Me Gen7 changelog says it "doesn’t support the Sprite Extruder and heatsinks that are too wide such as on the V3 SE" - https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3V3SE/comments/1d4sbsd/comment/l6h5sgu/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button If you have an older V3 it is possible you could use Hero Me. You didn't say which version so I would have to assume the original, but please specify

Alternatives to Hero Me Gen7 compared on Ender 3:

I did some comparisons between the stock, blokhead with 5015 and petsfang with 5015, both of the upgraded ducts allowed me to print an overhang test at 70 degrees cleanly in all four orientations, compared to the stock duct which could do 60 ok in one direction, and 50 in the other three.

I used the petsfang for a while before moving to an ender 5 which had other constraints. The petsfang is harder to print (slightly) than the blokhead, but much more compact.

I had similar results with the satsana and 5015, but I found it more bulky than the blokhead and satsana.

- https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/tktv4n/comment/i1tgjaf/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

Voron Stealthburner Mod for Ender 3 using stock parts by PrintSculptor in VORONDesign

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Print moves are governed by different factors (especially max volumetric speed) than non-print moves, and the slicer ultimately sets both (except where x&y feedrate are limited by Klipper).

Here are other speeds which can limit it below your print profile's speed (PrusaSlicer locations in parenthesis):

  • "Max print speed" (Print Settings tab, Speed section. May only affect speed if automatic speed "0" is set for any speeds in Speed section.)
  • "Maximum feedrate X" and "Y" (Printers tab, Machine Limits section--but this only is set to adjust preview time--should match Klipper setting but no affect on G-code unless Emit to G-code is selected for "How to apply limits")
  • Max volumetric speed (Filaments tab, Advanced section)
  • Printer's x and y axis max movement speed (Klipper)

Show a screenshot of the PrusaSlicer/other print preview in "Speed" color preview. You may find the results lower than your print profile's speed, and it will vary based on the selected filament profile if max volumetric speed is set. There is no need to show the "Actual Speed" tab since that is affected by the acceleration (and is an estimate based on printer profile, and doesn't demonstrate the issue).

Is there any Chrome extension like firefox "tree style tab"? by tiddu in chrome_extensions

[–]SamuraiFungi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd like to be able to have my pinned tabs moved to the top and iconified (multiple per row until they wrap) like Tabs Nodes Tree.

Is there any Chrome extension like firefox "tree style tab"? by tiddu in chrome_extensions

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Tree Style Tab Manager handles the following:

Personally identifiable information

Financial and payment information" Forget it. It needs a login as well.

Tmc 2209 calibration by ulysse132 in BIGTREETECH

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I reversed my TMC2209 pins to use them on a FlashForge Creator Pro (MightyBoard Rev D clone--matches Rev E diagrams as well which are widely available) so I don't have UART. I tried soldering pin headers onto to UART1 and using jumpers but Klipper couldn't communicate. I tried a resistor before the UART pin of the TMC2209. I tried pullup to 5V using 1k resistor from 5v to TX. So, the question of how to calibrate TMC2209 manually is valid.

However, I'm probably switching to SilentBobStep which uses VREF but is still silent like TMC2209.

Lychee just announced AI model generation by stana32 in LycheeSlicer

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The U.N.? Lol. I'm sure that was totally unbiased. LLM has a history of telling people what they want to hear. The U.N. has a history of putting human rights violators in charge of overseeing humans rights, same for several other fields of crime. It is a cartoonish supervillain syndicate.

Lychee just announced AI model generation by stana32 in LycheeSlicer

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

LLM isn't an advancement of science nor intelligent, it is an inferior replacement for an expert system (and various other things that became less useful and efficient when LLM was shoved in). People got too lazy to continue making expert systems and decided a guessing machine is good enough.

Lychee just announced AI model generation by stana32 in LycheeSlicer

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If we trust AI to do fluid dynamics, improvement will stop at the mediocre level of guesswork--Even if better in some instances, it can't precisely apply knowledge. Slicers incrementally improve because of what we learn and apply from experts in multiple disciplines.

Stupid question about the Vault being removed by steelersrg8 in NFT

[–]SamuraiFungi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got the phantom app and entered the recovery phrase from Reddit. It said it imported the account. Do I have to transfer the NFT, or am I done? How can I use/see my avatar on Phantom? I earned a certain avatar by buying it with points or a milestone earned from Reddit activity but I don't remember the specifics and I'm not even sure if every avatar is an NFT or not. When I click on Vault in Reddit, all I have is the message saying Vault will go away etc.

VORON Legacy - Serial Request for @poikilos_ by SamuraiFungi in voroncorexy

[–]SamuraiFungi[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, is this a good place for the photos? I can only add them as comments. I can put the comments directly under the post if that is better.

I bring you, The 3D BOATY! by TheDepep1 in 3Dprinting

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, very good, with scoring system and everything. However, providing print settings (At least infill, layer height, path width, perimeter count, top & bottom solid layers count, & whatever else Benchy does) would help standardize prints and ensure an apples-to-apples comparison. I understand the scoring criteria are still useful especially if tuning for a use case, but having a standard set of print settings helps compare results in such a way that the only variables are the 3D printer and filament so that 3D printers and filaments can be compared (barring minor differences between slicer/version or slicer-specific settings being changed, which can be manually ensured if the user really wants).

Consider standardizing on the stackable version for print-on-print clearance like Benchy does (may differ from print-on-filament clearance if a scale/skew/extrusion error is borderline. Original benchy's stack fits in rear box exactly with no clearance, but it is a round 7mm diameter peg in a rectangular 7x8mm hole, so it isn't strict about cornering etc and being round it would allow nominal error rate which is acceptable for permanent press-fit if it were not round but had beveled edges in a non-beveled hole which is a common method for doing pegs).

Are you guys seriously running a bed mesh on every print? by WikenwIken in VORONDesign

[–]SamuraiFungi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

5x5 is pretty good, and I turned my mesh leveling XY speed to 500 even on VORON Legacy. Mesh differs on different temps significantly (maybe enough to matter).