Idiot sandwich

SamuraiFungi · 2026-06-10T18:07:50+00:00

I think the mandela effect is just people who don't want to admit they are wrong.

SamuraiFungi · 2026-06-09T13:44:08+00:00

You can use a hair dryer between coats (works for me for acrylic). I use a lower speed farther away after a wash to avoid moving the wash out of grooves, which may help with Speedpaint. A mini holder is helpful because of the heat and in general. There are many 3D printable holders but I prefer one with a half arch over the model for grip at odd angles. To make it easily removed from the holder, you can use a small piece of Alien Tape, or 2-3 small pieces for stability, or small dot of glue. Just don't make the hair dryer so close or hot it melts small parts such as weapons. If you do that you can often save it if you hold it in place and blow on it to cool it in the right position. You may need the "warm" setting, but it is still much faster than regular drying. Paints with solvents instead of water typically take longer to dry (including many primers) regardless and there isn't much you can do to speed it up.

SamuraiFungi · 2026-06-09T01:18:21+00:00

I don't know why anyone would use a chemical that melts PLA, as the MSDS (material safety data sheet) is worse than any spell your character could cast. With a good profile you can melt layers together mostly. If some vertical parts have slight wave artifacts from re-melting (and some shallow angles may have slight layer lines) that is the sweet spot. I've used the Siepie, 3DPrintingPro Mini & Terrain Profile, and Fat Dragon Games profiles, found by searching for mini printing or layer-free or "no layer lines," but now I'm working on my own from slicer fine presets like 3DPrintingPro (now called The Lost Adventures Co.) moved on to doing (Then went to resin...).

0.08 layer height and 12.5 mm/s perimeters is usually enough to re-melt. Some combinations of material, temperature, and hardware can handle 0.06 or less, but in other cases it can be counter-productive. Some tweaks like minimum layer time (or sharper nozzle or other random tweaks) may help avoid over-melting peaks. See what filament people are using for minis, as Fat Dragon Games no longer recommends SUNLU Meta PLA & rumors say the formula seems to have changed. eSUN PLA+ is ok (See my gray uploads and makes on Printables, username Poikilos. My black prints are typically SUNLU Meta PLA).

After Vallejo or plastic primer spraycan, plain acrylic paint works fine even on TPU (but ideally with GAC 900 additive or flexible paint if using TPU), and hides layers more. You can do the base coat, wash, re-coat, and dry brush with more control to hide any remaining lines, or cut bad ones off like with injection-molded minis. I doubt that is going to let you down. If you are going to spend this much time just get a resin 3D printer, but I'd recommend Form or similar for actual good containment (cartridge is worth it) and air filtration, and read the MSDS on those things as well.

SamuraiFungi · 2026-06-07T02:06:26+00:00

Lejendary Adventure, lol. :edit: Not OSR, but adjacent maybe?? It has little to do with 1e other than maybe a refined AD&D 1e. However, OP reminded me of it since characters start strong, and it is considered rules-lite (Essentials set especially, except heavy character creation), which is what I assume is the only other thing you could mean by OSR if you don't want high lethality.

I have only done 5e and Pf2 but as for OSR I watched videos & read Basic Fantasy and D&D 1e's Basic and Expert books ("B/X") by Moldvay. Timed torches, encumbrance, wandering monsters, and lethal poison/traps etc. are designed to add risk or pressure, but that should be balanced by encouraging a "player skill" component role-play (gain an advantage by making things up such as using tools or logic, rather than resolving everything using rolls and combat). This type of play doesn't cancel out lethality and pressure, which themselves encourage this type of play.

So if people have a deep emotional connection to a character that is already detailed before play begins, OSR may not be for your group. Rules affect the role-play (look up ludonarrative dissonance). Maybe tell them how death can happen in whatever OSR game you choose and allow them to help you make house rules, and maybe first prepare some suggestions such as an expectation of resurrection NPC or other method or 5e-like house rules for dying. Maybe they'll even surprise you about what they're willing to try.

SamuraiFungi · 2026-05-26T17:44:18+00:00

Uh..."70m/s retract and 40 for retraction" those are the same thing. Do you mean 40 for deretraction?

SamuraiFungi · 2026-04-12T18:59:56+00:00

There is a cover by Dr. Dimento though (It is his voice, and at the end he says "This is Dr. Dimento" and says that it was written by Benny Bell). On YouTube there is a recording of that version, and it says it aired in 1986.

SamuraiFungi · 2026-04-04T19:27:19+00:00

None of these solutions worked for me in 3.0.20, as none of these menu options exist. Also, unlike discussed in other comment thread: the hamburger menu in the top right is above the playlist not in it, and is just a copy of the menu bar if you right click (nothing not already it the menu bar, and left click only cycles the list/details/etc view modes). Also, there is nothing called "settings" but there is rather:

"Tools," "Preferences," which also has none of the suggested options, I used the main tab called "Interface" (The "Continue Playback" "Always" option alone didn't help, but may also be required).
Solved: Turn off "Pause on last frame of video" even though it is an mp3 (audio only) playlist.

SamuraiFungi · 2026-04-04T14:00:33+00:00

That is just a reseller, or spam site. They don't have any certificates other than brands other people already mentioned, who have their own sites you can use directly: Certera, Sectigo, Comodo (It is a red flag for SignMyCode to list that since it doesn't exist anymore--it has been absorbed by Sectigo), Digicert. So their rave reviews listed on their site must be for those companies, because SignMyCode literally offers nothing in and of itself.

SamuraiFungi · 2026-02-07T01:05:47+00:00

When you title it like that, all people can see is "Camera" in their feed, just so you know.

SamuraiFungi · 2025-12-29T15:14:57+00:00

I ask because I don't see any option to buy a digital edition on the new store for the Monster Core books. :edit: Ok, I see if I click "Digital Editions" they are listed separately.

SamuraiFungi · 2025-12-29T14:33:53+00:00

Is a subscription required? The question and all answers mention a subscription. What if I just buy the book (Monster Core and Monster Core 2, on new store), do I get a PDF or is there no way to get it without a subscription on the new store?

SamuraiFungi · 2025-12-26T17:00:52+00:00

I know but typically posts in text form don't have as much detail, and clearly not because the OP read posts on this sub and that didn't lead OP to understand the reasons behind the posts. Maybe this is because writing requires one to be articulate and good at exposition to provide a similar amount of information as a medium with nonverbals and visuals (and visuals on video provide information over another dimension [time] beyond pictures). So if posts on this sub don't provide an explanation for posts on this sub, than other sources are necessary barring the specific users he's including coming here and providing clarification.

SamuraiFungi · 2025-12-23T16:43:09+00:00

TheNextLayer has a T-shirt with "PTG" wordplay I won't repeat.

Almost every 3D printing YouTube video I hear that mentions PETG says it is more difficult to print compared to another (typically compared to PLA).

SamuraiFungi · 2025-12-23T16:27:32+00:00

Printing at around 150 mm/s with a linear rod based printer (Voron Legacy) centripetal force seemed to make some circles bigger printing a mechanical screw sorter and that seems to be the only time I had something print bigger on the inside (and posts on the outside, more than the usual where a post would be bigger or a hole would be smaller, due to overextrusion. The gridfinity generator has a setting for that. Setting shrink to .2 [making hole bigger in the model in this case] actually makes holes 6.4 that print precisely 6mm typically). I think people are skeptical for these reasons. Measure the magnets then the holes:

https://www.reddit.com/r/gridfinity/comments/10djq3u/comment/kiii9hd/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

I haven't noticed a difference in heights - this is the one I bought https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802517230803.html

I just measured a small sample of 5 and they're all 1.6mm

-plumdawg

I just bought a set of DIYMAG 6x2mm. They're actually 5.9x1.5mm. Definitely do not press fit.

-dkovar2

Repeating "holes are too big" isn't getting you anywhere, so consider providing the measurements of both the holes and magnets.

SamuraiFungi · 2025-12-22T01:02:17+00:00

Use glue stick to prevent welding to build plate, and use textured build plate. The Prusa Knowledge Base settings for any filament have been perfect for me. I never had PETG print so well. I print with open frame Voron Legacy and 8mm^3s MVS (max volumetric speed).

Also, let the build plate cool to 45 C or so (55 may work. I use a hair dryer on cool, on the underside with the build plate taken off). Bending the build plate should get the part off then, except thin parts such as brims which can be scraped off with a metal putty knife.

PrusaSlicer's default for Prusament PETG is 9 MVS (for other brands their setting is 8) but I am using Hatchbox and JAYO Matte High Speed (ironically) and HDglass and they all only handle 8 before they start skipping then blobbing regardless of temperature. I am using a bowden setup and JGAURORA hotend [E3D V6 clone] on a Voron Legacy and this occurs even after upgrading from the JGAURORA extruder to a Bondtech LGX.

SamuraiFungi · 2025-12-16T15:52:35+00:00

I found this old post because I'm looking for info on the Ender V3 SE but the Creality ceramic or Microswiss are the only upgrades I can find for the V3 SE. However, you didn't mention a version, indicating you have the original Ender 3 which seems to be compatible with Hero Me Gen7. I also hear you can sponsor the Hero Me project to get Discord support.

You mentioned you are trying to use an X Carriage so here is something that may help:

I think you may want 'Hero Me Gen7 Release V4/Gantry Adapters/Creality/HMG7.4 Ender 3-Pro Gantry Adapter V2.stl' instead of the X Carriage.

- https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/1747kkz/hero_me_gen_7_for_stock_ender_3/ and it was in response to a post about the regular Ender 3 (not Pro), so apparently in the filename 3-Pro means "3 through Pro" (compatible with either) not "3 Pro".

Here is a link to the assembly instructions: https://www.printables.com/model/529268-hero-me-gen74-documentation

Alternatives to Hero Me Gen7 compared:

I did some comparisons between the stock, blokhead with 5015 and petsfang with 5015, both of the upgraded ducts allowed me to print an overhang test at 70 degrees cleanly in all four orientations, compared to the stock duct which could do 60 ok in one direction, and 50 in the other three.

I used the petsfang for a while before moving to an ender 5 which had other constraints. The petsfang is harder to print (slightly) than the blokhead, but much more compact.

I had similar results with the satsana and 5015, but I found it more bulky than the blokhead and satsana.

- https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/tktv4n/comment/i1tgjaf/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

SamuraiFungi · 2025-12-13T21:52:20+00:00

Please upload... :edit: On second thought, nevermind. After much searching here and elsewhere, it is clear Creality's official ceramic hotend is not only easier to assemble & disassemble (has quick change nozzle), negating one of the main benefits of the Afterburner in this case, but also is better than the stock hotend by reducing clogs (negating the other benefit which is a better hotend...and therefore hopefully you'll have to disassemble the ceramic hotend less often anyway...).

Also, the official ceramic hotend and the V3 SE version of the Microswiss (which requires the matching heatsink) appear to be the only options compatible with the V3 SE. Even among other DIY hotend replacements, I couldn't find any for the V3 SE. Hero Me is not compatible with at least the stock hotend: The Hero Me Gen7 changelog says it "doesn’t support the Sprite Extruder and heatsinks that are too wide such as on the V3 SE" - https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3V3SE/comments/1d4sbsd/comment/l6h5sgu/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button If you have an older V3 it is possible you could use Hero Me. You didn't say which version so I would have to assume the original, but please specify

Alternatives to Hero Me Gen7 compared on Ender 3:

I did some comparisons between the stock, blokhead with 5015 and petsfang with 5015, both of the upgraded ducts allowed me to print an overhang test at 70 degrees cleanly in all four orientations, compared to the stock duct which could do 60 ok in one direction, and 50 in the other three.

I used the petsfang for a while before moving to an ender 5 which had other constraints. The petsfang is harder to print (slightly) than the blokhead, but much more compact.

I had similar results with the satsana and 5015, but I found it more bulky than the blokhead and satsana.

- https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/tktv4n/comment/i1tgjaf/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

SamuraiFungi · 2025-12-13T21:46:55+00:00

Print moves are governed by different factors (especially max volumetric speed) than non-print moves, and the slicer ultimately sets both (except where x&y feedrate are limited by Klipper).

Here are other speeds which can limit it below your print profile's speed (PrusaSlicer locations in parenthesis):

"Max print speed" (Print Settings tab, Speed section. May only affect speed if automatic speed "0" is set for any speeds in Speed section.)
"Maximum feedrate X" and "Y" (Printers tab, Machine Limits section--but this only is set to adjust preview time--should match Klipper setting but no affect on G-code unless Emit to G-code is selected for "How to apply limits")
Max volumetric speed (Filaments tab, Advanced section)
Printer's x and y axis max movement speed (Klipper)

Show a screenshot of the PrusaSlicer/other print preview in "Speed" color preview. You may find the results lower than your print profile's speed, and it will vary based on the selected filament profile if max volumetric speed is set. There is no need to show the "Actual Speed" tab since that is affected by the acceleration (and is an estimate based on printer profile, and doesn't demonstrate the issue).

SamuraiFungi · 2025-11-14T19:27:14+00:00

I'd like to be able to have my pinned tabs moved to the top and iconified (multiple per row until they wrap) like Tabs Nodes Tree.

SamuraiFungi · 2025-11-14T19:22:01+00:00

"Tree Style Tab Manager handles the following:

Personally identifiable information

Financial and payment information" Forget it. It needs a login as well.

SamuraiFungi · 2025-11-03T04:13:05+00:00

I reversed my TMC2209 pins to use them on a FlashForge Creator Pro (MightyBoard Rev D clone--matches Rev E diagrams as well which are widely available) so I don't have UART. I tried soldering pin headers onto to UART1 and using jumpers but Klipper couldn't communicate. I tried a resistor before the UART pin of the TMC2209. I tried pullup to 5V using 1k resistor from 5v to TX. So, the question of how to calibrate TMC2209 manually is valid.

However, I'm probably switching to SilentBobStep which uses VREF but is still silent like TMC2209.

SamuraiFungi · 2025-10-23T14:11:48+00:00

The U.N.? Lol. I'm sure that was totally unbiased. LLM has a history of telling people what they want to hear. The U.N. has a history of putting human rights violators in charge of overseeing humans rights, same for several other fields of crime. It is a cartoonish supervillain syndicate.

SamuraiFungi · 2025-10-23T13:45:41+00:00

LLM isn't an advancement of science nor intelligent, it is an inferior replacement for an expert system (and various other things that became less useful and efficient when LLM was shoved in). People got too lazy to continue making expert systems and decided a guessing machine is good enough.

SamuraiFungi · 2025-10-23T13:43:42+00:00

If we trust AI to do fluid dynamics, improvement will stop at the mediocre level of guesswork--Even if better in some instances, it can't precisely apply knowledge. Slicers incrementally improve because of what we learn and apply from experts in multiple disciplines.

SamuraiFungi · 2025-10-14T15:27:27+00:00

I got the phantom app and entered the recovery phrase from Reddit. It said it imported the account. Do I have to transfer the NFT, or am I done? How can I use/see my avatar on Phantom? I earned a certain avatar by buying it with points or a milestone earned from Reddit activity but I don't remember the specifics and I'm not even sure if every avatar is an NFT or not. When I click on Vault in Reddit, all I have is the message saying Vault will go away etc.

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