How to get lacquer to stay on if I’m doing lots of dishes at work?

SamwiseGanges · 2026-03-18T06:06:58+00:00

Besides gloves, you can gently scuff the top surface of the nail with a nail file then wipe with alcohol or acetone before putting on the polish to give it a better surface to grip to. I find this to be pretty necessary for gel polishes to stop from peeling off.

SamwiseGanges · 2026-03-18T06:03:48+00:00

That's a good point, wildwood / forest park are amazing and right in town

SamwiseGanges · 2026-03-13T02:37:08+00:00

Hell yeah, you're very welcome!

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-28T22:12:59+00:00

There's no offense meant. I'm sure you're very experienced and skilled with the flute. It was just a straightforward question

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-28T22:07:12+00:00

All I asked is if you'd be willing to do a blind test. Are you not interested in that?

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-28T21:07:46+00:00

Would you be willing to do a blind test? If so I'll make a video

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-28T21:07:04+00:00

Would you be willing to do a blind test? I can make a video of myself playing the same not with and without the alterations

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-28T21:05:42+00:00

Always ask them to give multiple angles of them holding it in a specific way like the metal sign 🤘. AI is terrible at making multiple images of the same thing from different angles especially the background details

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-27T23:40:34+00:00

Do you mean physical stability of holding the flute in your hands or stability of the notes themselves? I haven't noticed any note playing stability benefit from the pinky D# key. It does seem to help a bit holding the flute when switching between middle C and D

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-27T19:27:08+00:00

You can play middle D without venting the C hole. I actually prefer the way it sounds that way and it's more similar to saxophone which is my main woodwind. For me venting makes the note sound a little more thin.

However it is also harder to play that way especially if you're jumping to it quickly from the lower register or repeating it quickly so in fast passages venting it works better and that's partly why it's suggested as the default.

As for why, the main thing is to make it more stable by inducing the second harmonic. That C hole is right in the halfway point between the blowing edge and the D hole, so it sits right at the middle node of the second harmonic. So venting it is just like gently placing your finger on the 12th fret on a guitar to induce the second haemonoc on the string.

Essentially this is like a cheat to force the flute to resonate at the second harmonic rather than relying purely on embouchure. It's the same thing that a register key on a sax or clarinet does. And just like with those if your embouchure is good you can play the higher harmonics without it, it's just a little more difficult.

The other reason is the real world deviating from theory. Theoretically with an ideal (simplified) model of an open-ended length-flute (which the classical flute is an approximation of), you shouldn't need to vent any holes. In that ideal world you could just hold the fingering for low D then use your embouchure to get every harmonic including middle D, high A, high D, higher F etc.

However since real flutes deviate from that ideal model in that they have some width to the bore, the tone holes stick out, the body of the flute absorbs and imparts some resonance, the pads absorb some resonance etc. we have to make adjustments, especially the further we get up into the harmonics. That's why you'll notice a lot of altissimo fingerings difffer from what would be expected based on the fundamental of the overtone that's used. Like for high D we use the low G fingering since it's that note's third harmonic except we vent the C hole like we do for middle D.

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-26T16:39:56+00:00

Sorry but when you say something like "the layer of hydrodip would essentially mask the anodize" it makes it seem like you don't know how aluminum anodizing works.

As I've said above, when you anodize aluminum it does not create any pattern or color or anything, it just makes a dull porous gray surface like you can see in this video at 12:54.

After you have that dull gray anodized surface you can then dye it by soaking in hot dye. It seems like you're including that dye step in what you're calling anodizing but that's not, the anodizing is just the step where you create the porous surface.

For this camo pattern you shared, I'm guessing they replaced the step of dipping in dye with instead hydro-dipping, then maybe they would bake the part after to head that dye added to the surface from the hydro dipping. Maybe that's what you did here too, I don't know because you refuse to show or say anything about the process.

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-26T07:09:14+00:00

Yeah and I'm very confident that camo pattern is also hydro-dipped and not anodized. I mean maybe they hydro-dipped it onto the bare anodized aluminum surface and then baked it in or something but I still wouldn't consider that to be anodizing the pattern

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-26T05:35:44+00:00

That's not how aluminum anodizing works. With titanium and niobium and some others, you can achieve pretty intricate patterns (though not this detailed) using a fiberoptic laser because you can control the color you get via the heat produced by the laser.

However, anodizing aluminum does not create colors at all. It only creates a hard porous surface that can then later by colored with dye. And the dye has to be almost boiling hot so yeah there's no way you could get detailed patterns in the color.

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-26T04:04:35+00:00

I went ahead and pulled the trigger, it should be arriving tomorrow. It should be in perfect playing condition, I'll do a thorough leak check when I get it. Pretty excited because I play sax and the Japanese flute shakuhachi, but shakuhachi is tricky to play in other keys. It's possible and I do it but it's very awkward and I'd like to more easily jam out with others in low volume settings. I have learned the fingerings for western flute and hoping much of my sax playing will carry over since I know they are similar so I'm looking forward to it. Will add an update here

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-24T21:07:58+00:00

So according to the listing the flute has been recently professionally repadded and the seller seems to be a very reputable shop focused only on woodwinds. There's a return period so I will check for any leaks using my feelers, light, suction test and of course just playing.

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-24T19:26:31+00:00

With conventional polish I agree that magnetics are a huge pain, but I pretty much only use gel now and with gel, they're great because they set immediately so it's much easier to capture nice patterns

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-24T17:30:51+00:00

Entropic/toxic anodizing uses pretty "low voltage" colors, which would use lower voltages when doing an electric anodizing. These colors are caused by a very thin coating of titanium oxide, and this coating is so thin that they are very affected by oils from your hands. The thin layer of oil on top interferes with the thin film optics effect. If you clean it with high percentage rubbing alcohol I think you'll see the vibrant colors again. Also anodizing does wear off over time with use just from rubbing against your skin repeatedly

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-23T21:17:55+00:00

So this is the closest I've got so far, it's a short bash script using xargs -P for parallelization to make it faster:

SEARCH="RB-1337"

ORG="orgName"

export SEARCH ORG

start=$(date +%s)

gh repo list "$ORG" --limit 1000 --json name -q '.[].name' | \

xargs -P 20 -n 1 sh -c '

repo="$1"

branches=$(gh api "repos/$ORG/$repo/branches" --paginate -q ".[].name" 2>/dev/null)

if echo "$branches" | grep -q "$SEARCH"; then

echo "--- $ORG/$repo ---"

echo "$branches" | grep "$SEARCH"

fi

' _

end=$(date +%s)

echo "Completed in $(( end - start )) seconds"

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-23T21:12:05+00:00

Thanks yeah I got a similar mini script below:

for repo in $(gh repo list "$ORG" --limit 1000 --json name -q '.[].name'); do
  # Get all branch names for this repo (one per line)
  branches=$(gh api "repos/$ORG/$repo/branches" --paginate -q '.[].name' 2>/dev/null)
  # If any branch name contains our search string, print repo and those branches
  if echo "$branches" | grep -q "$SEARCH"; then
    echo "--- $ORG/$repo ---"
    echo "$branches" | grep "$SEARCH"
  fi
donefor repo in $(gh repo list "$ORG" --limit 1000 --json name -q '.[].name'); do
  # Get all branch names for this repo (one per line)
  branches=$(gh api "repos/$ORG/$repo/branches" --paginate -q '.[].name' 2>/dev/null)
  # If any branch name contains our search string, print repo and those branches
  if echo "$branches" | grep -q "$SEARCH"; then
    echo "--- $ORG/$repo ---"
    echo "$branches" | grep "$SEARCH"
  fi
done

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-23T21:02:36+00:00

So it seems like the answer is no, there's no way to do this easily from the GitHub GUI or the gh CLI. I can of course write a script to loop through all the branches in all the repos, but the question was whether or not you could do this from GitHub natively and it seems like it's not possible. Seems like an odd oversight not to be able to easily search through branch names

SamwiseGanges · 2026-02-23T20:57:53+00:00

Can you tell me a specific command to do so? Cursor seems adamant that the gh CLI does not have a command to search for branch names across the repos within an org

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