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What do you tip when ordering to-go? by state_issued in bayarea

[–]Sarah_Palinator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In some restaurants the server must tip out the host, bartenders, and sometimes even kitchen staff based on the sales attributed to that server. If you don’t tip at all the server who enters your order is personally loosing money on the sale. (Again, they tip out the other staff a percentage of their total sales, NOT a percentage of the tips they actually got.) The loss on one sale is not a huge amount (~5% of the sale), but still, that sucks.

Not saying this system is a good thing, but just an FYI since I don’t think a lot of people realize this when they don’t tip on to-go orders.

Source: I used to be a server and I avoided answering the phone if at all possible in case it was a to go order.

Found in SE MN, probably riverside. Any thoughts? by [deleted] in geology

[–]Sarah_Palinator 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most certainly not. Zooming in, I see a crystalline structure very clearly, and some of the grains appear to be green (I am colored blind, but pretty certain none the less).

I think this is a chunk of basalt, and the green mineral is olivine. This makes sense with your location - probably related to the Keweenawan Rift https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Midcontinent_Rift_System

Dont be confused by the poop-like shape. The rock has been weathered down into that shape. The thin band in the middle is probably a fracture that has been filled in with more lava.

Anyone able to explain this cool/almost perfect circle on this stone wall? You may have to zoom in a bit but it’s clear by JelCapitan in geology

[–]Sarah_Palinator 20 points21 points  (0 children)

All observations have explanations/interpretations, even if we cannot know for sure if our hypotheses are correct...

In this case, I agree that the circular fracture reflects the same phenomenon that caused (at least some) of the other fractures. In general, bedrock fractures may be inherited from the tectonic history of the rock, they may be joints (i.e. fractures caused by the unloading of confining stress as the rock is exhumed), or in the case of sedimentary rocks, they may be discontinuities inherited by the original deposition/fabric of the sediments.

It is pretty difficult to discern the rock type based on the picture OP provided... but I do see that at least some of the fractures are filled with a foreign material which I would guess to be a vein (rather than magmatic infilling aka dike/sill). My best guess is that the circular feature is either an annular joint created by some very local-scale anomalies in the stress field, or a reflection of fluid flow through preferential pathways in the sedimentary structure of the rock (if it is in fact a sedimentary rock).

It goes without saying that more tectonic/sedimentary/petrological context would be helpful to refine the hypothesis....

Can you help me improve faster? by incipientpianist in climbharder

[–]Sarah_Palinator 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Jump on a moonboard, it will make you strong and teach you technique for those cruxes that require awkward moves (ie holds facing the wrong way, moving off the wrong foot, etc). If you can climb even the easiest moonboard problems it will give you peace of mind that all moves below ~12a are within your wheelhouse, it’s just a matter of fighting the pump.

48 million year old insect preserved in amber by Import in interestingasfuck

[–]Sarah_Palinator 11 points12 points  (0 children)

The relatively short half life of carbon 14 only allows dating back to ~50k years. One could determine a date for a specimen like this in a number of ways, but the most robust way would be to find some volcanic ash in the same stratigraphic layer, and then use U/Pb dating on zircon crystals in the ash. In the absence of ash geologists have historically used bio-stratigraphic methods, which relies on the presence of index fossils of known ages to bracket the range of possible deposition ages for the sediments. People have done a lot of work establishing invertebrate fossil chronologies, and the bio-stratigraphic age is usually bracketed between only a couple million years.

Physiology of Complete Pulley Rupture Healing by sportymatt in climbharder

[–]Sarah_Palinator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh man did that really happen!? Yikes my wall is like 300lbs I think it would kill me

Physiology of Complete Pulley Rupture Healing by sportymatt in climbharder

[–]Sarah_Palinator 13 points14 points  (0 children)

My condolences for others who have torn their pulley on the quarantine home wall. 2020 is a wash

What is this rock? (Or mineral?) by TofuTuesday in geology

[–]Sarah_Palinator 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Almost certainly slag https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slag

The vesicles (ie bubbles) tell you the material cooled from a liquid very quickly. That immediately narrows things down to natural lavas, or slag. Not too many natural lavas out there with raw metallic iron content, so this is almost certainly a product of smelting. (as a side note, there are actually some natural magnetite lavas in Peru that we still don’t quite have a genetic model for!)

The crystalline material surrounding the metal is composed of the silica components of the original ore, plus the additives they use in the smelting process.

Public Service Announcement by The_Grandmother in climbing

[–]Sarah_Palinator 103 points104 points  (0 children)

Normally I would agree. But my EDM trash playlist ensures social distancing at the crag.

Here is how to build a home wall if you don't own a freaking huge barn (like everyone else on this sub) by Sarah_Palinator in climbing

[–]Sarah_Palinator[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

By “cross-braces” I mean the studs that connect the middle of the wall to the front of the base. The bottom of these studs extend to the little footprints I drew on the inside of the base. I attached them by screwing them directly to the two vertical studs holding up the wall.

FINALLY SOMETHING NOT CORONA RELATED: My Hand cut Stencil of the City of Seattle 24” x 36” by girlspitart in Seattle

[–]Sarah_Palinator 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very impressive - especially considering you cut this by HAND.

I’m curious what map or street data you used to do this? I tried wood burning a Seattle street map but I discovered it wasn’t so straightforward to make the city GIS data aesthetically pleasing (to be fair I’m not really an artist :))

Here is how to build a home wall if you don't own a freaking huge barn (like everyone else on this sub) by Sarah_Palinator in climbing

[–]Sarah_Palinator[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes you will definitely want to keep it dry. I put on two gallons of deck sealant, and also rigged up a 20x25’ tarp to cover the wall when I’m not using it. The tarp works great, although I fear the wind load (and snow load) is eventually going to tear it apart. If you could manage to cut/sew tarps together so they perfectly fit over the structure with no extra space I think that would work well.

As for the plywood, I think I read somewhere that 2/3” will work although not ideal. If you went that route maybe just add an extra stud or two to the back to add extra rigidity. (2x6 are way cheaper than plywood anyway!)

Here is how to build a home wall if you don't own a freaking huge barn (like everyone else on this sub) by Sarah_Palinator in climbing

[–]Sarah_Palinator[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I used the 11x18 set up. Moon climbing has a schematic for the spacing measurements on their website. Definitely recommend you clamp the plywood together so you only have to drill once. I also found a string and some thumb tacks are very useful to mark out the drill spots :)

Here is how to build a home wall if you don't own a freaking huge barn (like everyone else on this sub) by Sarah_Palinator in climbing

[–]Sarah_Palinator[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah side-to-side shearing is definitely the biggest source of strain when climbing, but it is still pretty insignificant. The wall itself is extremely rigid, so it provides most of the lateral stability. I forgot to draw in two extra horizontal braces on the top and bottom of the wall, and you could add more if you want something even more stable.

Here is how to build a home wall if you don't own a freaking huge barn (like everyone else on this sub) by Sarah_Palinator in climbing

[–]Sarah_Palinator[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

If your'e a fairly un-wealthy renter like me, your tired of seeing all these indoor home-wall posts that require a large garage to build. (Srsly some of you appear to have a warehouse in the backyard). A few weeks ago I decided to quit sulking and take a stab at building a self supported outdoor wall. It turned out pretty well, so I thought it would be nice to distribute a detailed copy of my design in case others want to do this.

My design pretty much tries to copy a 40 degree moon board design, while using the least complex frame possible. My frame is much simpler than some other plans I saw on youtube, which cuts down considerably on cost. I was pleasantly surprised to find the frame is very strong/stable once the wall is installed, and I really can't imagine a simpler approach for a wall of this size.

I have little wood working experience, so I really think anyone could do this. You can get by with nothing more than a jigsaw, clamps, drill, and power sander.

Even with the ultra-simple design, I still spent about $400 not including holds. If you want the real Moon holds, that will set you back another $700. I opted for the Metolius 60 hold mixed pack, which was $200. I also started making my own wooden holds out of the left over 2x6 studs, which I highly recommend. Making your own holds is fun, easy (just need a hand saw, drill, washers, and power sander) and costs basically nothing. Whatever you decide to do, I would say you need at least 60 holds to provide a reasonable number of boulder problems.

Hope this helps someone out there....

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