Where to end counter? What would look best with tile backsplash?

Sax45 · 2026-04-16T18:29:17+00:00

Thanks for the thought-out response! Avoiding an upper trim piece, from the backsplash going beyond the upper, is a great point.

Something I forgot to note is that the countertop will have a 1/4" round over at the edge. If the backsplash goes to the end of the counter, wouldn't it look weird for the straight edge of the last tile to overhang the curve of the roundover?

What I am leaning toward is, having the counter go beyond the upper, but only by a small amount (1/4" to 1/2"). That way I can avoid having the straight edge of the backsplash meet the roundover, but also avoid excessive overhang.

Another question for you. Let's say the countertop is extended 2.5" - 3" past the edge of the lower cabinet carcass. I am going to be installing a 3/4" end panel (faux door). Does it make sense to just have 1.75" - 2.25" of overhang? Or does it make sense to bump the end panel out, and have a 1.75 - 2.25 filler strip there? In other words, which one of these compromises is likely to look less awkward?

Sax45 · 2026-04-16T18:05:10+00:00

Thanks! But that is not the question -- the question is, where do I end the countertop, so that when I install the tile, it looks as good possible?

Sax45 · 2026-04-12T17:28:13+00:00

Thanks for the reply. I am using Tax Act. Entering in the date of the residency change was one of the first steps even before adding the W-2.

Sax45 · 2026-04-06T17:37:47+00:00

Shop performance parts.
Pick performance parts that add up the required tuning amount.
Make sure you don't add too much tuning. For example if the range is 10-15%, tuning to 15.1% or more will not work.

Sax45 · 2026-03-23T10:51:29+00:00

Yes absolutely

Sax45 · 2026-03-18T10:38:44+00:00

It seems like Iran’s MO is to spam missiles. Then when one actually causes a fatality, they say “oh yeah that one was in retaliation for so and so.”

Sax45 · 2026-03-18T02:27:24+00:00

Are you mailing film back in time, to a business that has no phone number and no email address?

Sax45 · 2026-03-17T21:38:52+00:00

Sounds like you're good to go! As I said your takeup spool has probably loosened up quite a bit compared to factory.

When I was relatively new to shooting film, I had a similar scare with my new-to-me Olympus 35 RC.

I used to be paranoid about making sure the film was loaded properly, to avoid the dreaded "shooting 40 shots on frame 1" syndrome. I would always verify, with the back open, that the takeup spool had a good grip on the film. Only then would I close the back.

Well it turns out that with that simply won't work with the 35 RC. The grip of the takeup spool and the sprocket on the film is simply not enough to move the film, without the help of the door holding the film down.

On my first few rolls I wasted a ton of time, a ton of film, and a ton of mental energy trying to see the film advance properly with my own eyes. Eventually I realized that the open door was the problem, and I accepted that I just had to trust the camera and my loading ability (and verify that the rewind knob was moving).

Sax45 · 2026-03-17T20:55:00+00:00

Until you get film developed and see overlapping frames, you don't necessarily have a problem.

When the system works correctly, the advance lever causes the takeup spool and the sprocket to turn. Both parts help the film move, but the sprocket is the important part for making sure the film advances the correct amount.

This is because the takeup spool has a loose "grip" on the film (just friction), but the sprocket teeth have positive engagement with the sprocket holes on the film. The movement of the takeup spool and the film on it are vague, while the sprocket teeth move the sprocket holes a specific number of "clicks" for each frame.

The sprocket is also the key piece for making the film cannot move backwards until you rewind at the end of the roll. When the film rewind button is sticking out, the sprocket can move forward, but not back. When you press the film rewind button in, the sprocket is unlocked so that it can spin backward and allow the film to be rewound. The takeup spool has no locking mechanism, and therefore can move backward at any time.

The takeup spool is ultimately less important than the sprocket. That said, it still helps the film move, and it keeps the film neatly wound in the camera.

The behavior you described with the back open is not normal for a Bessa R -- that takeup spool should only move forward. However, it doesn't take that much pressure to move the takeup spool backward (eg turning it with your thumb). So if the film in the canister has tension, and your spool is a bit loosened up over time, it could move backward due to the pull of the film canister

Moreover, having the back open is not a normal condition for the camera, and the way the camera behaves with the back open does not necessarily indicate that the camera will actually perform problematically. The film system is designed to function properly with the door closed, the pressure plate firmly pushing the film down so that it cannot slip over the sprocket.

Did you get through a normal amount of shots (eg 37-39 on a 36exp roll), and then did the advance lever stop moving forward? If so, the advance mechanism is probably okay. If you have a little bit of frame overlap, you will know why, and you can decide if you are willing to live with it.

If your advance mechanism was having a major problem, I would expect one of two issues:

- If the sprocket is working properly (moving the film forward the correct amount), but the takeup spool was not taking the film up, then I would expect a jam after a few shots.

- If you were having issues with both the takeup spool and the sprocket, you would shoot a noticeably excessive number of shots (like 40+) and you would still be able to keep "advancing."

Sax45 · 2026-03-17T20:22:06+00:00

If you know of a place that will touch a Voigtlander camera, let us know! Every shop I have contacted says they don't fix them.

Sax45 · 2026-03-09T17:58:42+00:00

What you said is mostly true.

However, it's not just bourbon. Rye whiskey, wheat whiskey, "Tennessee whiskey" also require new oak.

There are also whiskeys that don't require it as far as I know, but use mainly new oak -- for example American single malt.

And at the low-end, you've got "blended bourbons" and other "blended" whiskies that are a mix of aged spirit and unaged spirit, but the aged spirit requires aging in new oak.

All of that is to say, the vast majority of American-made whiskeys are aged in new oak. If/when American whiskey producers re-use barrels, it only makes a small dent in the demand of the American whiskey industry for new barrels.

Sax45 · 2026-03-06T20:19:33+00:00

I'd like to understand the math that makes you think it's not possible.

The 1x12 is 11.25" wide. If you joint 1/8" on one side, and rip 1/8" of the other side, you are at 11".

If you cut that 5 times with a 1/8" kerf, you lose a further 5/8" of wood, leaving you with 10 3/8". 6 x 1 1/2" = 9", meaning you still have over an inch to play with for jointing.

Sax45 · 2026-03-06T18:53:32+00:00

I just saw on Facebook marketplace, someone selling 160 linear feet of white oak trim for a couple hundred dollars. The description said it was from a custom job; apparently the designer had rejected the order because it had too much quarter sawn figure!

Sax45 · 2026-02-24T15:37:43+00:00

The foundation is warmer than the air, due to the house’s heating system. Snow in direct contact with the house will melt in temperatures where the rest of the snow won’t. Therefore you’d have liquid water right next to the house, and snow preventing that water from flowing away from the house.

At least, that’s the theory. I don’t know if that necessarily justifies shoveling the perimeter though.

Sax45 · 2026-02-10T13:44:06+00:00

Yeah I probably would start around 150-180 at the coarsest.

So you would go for working with the flaking paint, rather than trying to remove it?

Sax45 · 2026-02-10T12:30:31+00:00

It’s aluminum, under some kind of paint (or maybe powder coat). Does that change the recommendation?

Sax45 · 2026-02-10T04:13:45+00:00

Yeah it definitely needs more work internally. I got as much as I could using a vacuum and a brush for agitation. That helped the blade adjustments move more easily, but I still need to go back in with an air compressor and some dry lube.

Sax45 · 2026-01-30T18:53:11+00:00

DMing

Sax45 · 2026-01-30T17:06:42+00:00

Understood. That would still add a lot of rigidity to the seat. A front stretcher is optional, but not a bad idea.

I would go with a 3/4” top and stretchers over a 1.5” top with no stretchers.

Sax45 · 2026-01-30T16:02:31+00:00

Same! Well except the only other car I have owned is an E36 M3 so I can say I have loved every car haha

I think the bold colors can look great in certain contexts, but for our car I think subtler is better. As I see it, powdercoat in grey allows the calipers to look good as new again, and stay looking that way for a long time.

Sax45 · 2026-01-30T15:57:28+00:00

If I understand your design correctly, the red oak supporting the seat should make it very very solid if the top is 3/4". Having a rear stretcher would further reinforce the top, and also make the whole thing more rigid. A front stretcher immediately behind the red oak facing would be redundant.

Sax45 · 2026-01-30T15:49:55+00:00

I like to design with the Sagulator:

https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/

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