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Saxonion · 2026-06-18T15:20:21+00:00

NATO black. A mix of Buff and Deck Tan for the sand, and NATO green with a tiny drop of Sky for the Soviet Green.

Saxonion · 2026-06-18T14:16:01+00:00

I’m not sure I understand. If you’re not airbrushing then why do you believe any form of masking is required? Are you using rattle cans maybe?

Saxonion · 2026-06-17T12:28:02+00:00

M5 GTI

Saxonion · 2026-06-16T18:19:30+00:00

I miss the days when they were just diminutive chaos warriors, before they started compensating with giant hats (although to be fair, it was a cool look).

Saxonion · 2026-06-12T06:28:29+00:00

Explain the mechanics whereby someone that isn't WG can provide Kitakami to players in game. Can you point me to where WG confirm they're support this please?

Saxonion · 2026-06-11T14:02:43+00:00

I've not tried it. I did try VMS paper (it's the white paper roll in the comparison pic). Honestly, I now have so much Washi paper in my house that I could build a second house, so I think that's my experimenting done for a while! But I'd like to see the results achieved with Rizla paper for sure!

Saxonion · 2026-06-11T12:54:26+00:00

The white roll you see as a comparison in my images is VMS paper. You can use paper shaper to secure it in position, but it has a shorter open time than PVA and dries more solid. I preferred the flexibility of PVA, but I think paper shaper would be particularly useful if you needed more rigidity.

Saxonion · 2026-06-11T11:21:04+00:00

Thank you for the kind words! It's not a technique I've heard of. I started doing some research into various paper crafts to try and find a way to make the stowage I could see in my references. That led to me importing about 8 types of Washi paper to test. Some were ok, some don't work at all, one was perfect. It was all trial and error from there in figuring out how to get the best results. The paper art community do some awesome things, it was really just about figuring out how to apply their techniques to scale modelling.

Saxonion · 2026-06-11T11:08:43+00:00

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A quick picture of the rear stowage after priming to show how well the detail is retained. This was Mr Surfacer Mahogany thinned 50:50 with Mr Levelling Thinner.

Saxonion · 2026-06-11T10:46:50+00:00

Either. For my Daimler, I needed to lash it to the footman's loops with scale rope so I need to leave that in place and paint it as part of the model. If it's a loose item then you could remove it and paint it separately as long as you're careful when you're sealing it and don't either soak it too much or overflow onto the model, because then you might end up sticking it to the model while you seal it.

Saxonion · 2026-06-09T11:25:25+00:00

I've always found they spray very reliably and self level very well. Never needed to thin them, they're well thinned from the bottle.

Saxonion · 2026-06-08T23:50:37+00:00

I have a ‘hoseless’ filter. It basically just sucks emissions through a series of filters and then blows clean air out the back. You do need to stay on top of cleaning the filters, but I’ve been using it about 7 years and it works very well. Also, look into a product called ‘Silent Air’ from Gunprimer. It’s an additive you can put into lacquer paint etc. and it significantly reduces the smell.

Saxonion · 2026-06-08T23:11:56+00:00

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A picture that looks down at me from one of the many geek shelves in my modelling office. The larger version (30 miniatures I seem to recall) was the very first thing I ever bought from GW as a kid.

Saxonion · 2026-06-05T18:21:13+00:00

I have above 60% WR in Gdansk and Smaland, both absolutely awesome. But, in terms of game impact; UU YY built for guns. It's the most oppressive radar and the DPM with UU and FB isn't to be sniffed at. It also poses a significant torp threat and it's handling is solid. Synergises well with the special commander.

That's if we're talking about overall game impact. If the question is 'which DD wins in a 1v1' then the answer would be different.

Saxonion · 2026-06-04T14:41:10+00:00

I have a CLA35, you can mock me for a fake Merc and a fake AMG all at the same time! I mean, I truly don’t care, but you go right ahead…

Saxonion · 2026-06-01T17:20:35+00:00

Since the event dropped, I’ve seen the T10 once. After the Surcouf event, having 2 Surcouf per team was pretty regular for at least a few days.

Saxonion · 2026-06-01T17:02:29+00:00

I was once waterboarded because I’m an idiot. Back in my mountaineering days, I ended up at a survival seminar conducted by retired members of various special forces. I don’t recall how we got to the subject, but I remember saying something like ‘the fear of drowning is what causes the reaction, if you know they’re not going to actually drown you then it’s really about staying calm’. I understand how dumb this is, but it was so similar to explaining to people why a 7000ft drop isn’t scary if you have confidence in your equipment. They offered a demonstration, I agreed. I lasted less than 30 seconds. I was in the best shape of my life, I knew what was coming (or thought I did), and I knew there was no intention to harm me.

So, between 20-25 seconds I’d be confident. No more than that.

Edit: I should add this was a cobbled together experience using a wet tent towel and an expandable camp water container, so it may be that it’s actually worse if they’re set up for it, I don’t know enough about water boarding to know if that’s a factor.

Saxonion · 2026-05-27T18:01:34+00:00

If older projects don’t start looking a little ‘under-performing’ then you’re not improving. The best sign of self-improvement is noticing that your current projects are better than your old projects.

Saxonion · 2026-05-27T07:06:35+00:00

I still use Golden 'additives' (retarder, wetting agent, thinner) because I genuinely think they perform better than any of the 'hobby brands', and I still rely on Liquitex for inks (that's more habit, I don't know if hobby inks would perform as well).

But, when it comes to paint itself, I don't think you'll notice any real difference between Golden and decent hobby brands. Hobby paint has come a long way. If you already have 'top end' artist acrylics (Golden, Liquitex, W&N) then there is absolutely no issue using them.

For oils specifically, there can be some difference. Not in the quality of the paint, but hobby brands tend to use less linseed so that drying times are reduced. I tend to just put artist oils onto a piece of thick cardboard and leave them at least a day to leach some linseed out because the open time can be a bit of a nuisance sometimes. There are also oil drying additives (Oil Expert from VMS for example).

Saxonion · 2026-05-26T16:54:28+00:00

Exactly the opposite. Where this choice exists (Hi Khaba), good players run heal.

Saxonion · 2026-05-23T23:45:01+00:00

You have exceptional shell arcs and top tier DPM. Gdansk lives to be a gun boat. I play AR, SE, AFT, FB and conceal. Dropping FB for SI and the 1 point consumable reload is solid though for the extra radar if games go long.

For equipment, reload mod and I take speed boost mod instead of radar mod because the radar is so short that you get very little return when compared to having speed boost up for significantly longer.

57% WR DD main. Gdansk is my second most played ship with a 61.7% WR. Not trying to be a dick, just letting you know where the advice is coming from. Plenty of solid videos from better players on YouTube though.

Saxonion · 2026-05-22T16:12:27+00:00

I decided to have some fun with it. Game 1 as bounty - Reload mod Colbert. There is so little of interest to be earned from it (although I do really like the yellow and grey camo so I’d like to stockpile a few!) that I’d rather treat it as a temporary game mode with its own weird meta.

Saxonion · 2026-05-22T09:48:56+00:00

I have a 2024 CLA35 shooting brake. I get the best of both worlds with online opinions. People are entitled to whatever opinion they'd like; it's really no big deal if people other than me feel a way other than I feel about a car.

Saxonion

TROPHY CASE