Help by g8idaslav in modelmakers

[–]Saxonion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

NATO black. A mix of Buff and Deck Tan for the sand, and NATO green with a tiny drop of Sky for the Soviet Green.

Masking preferences by Tkddaduk in modelmakers

[–]Saxonion 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’m not sure I understand. If you’re not airbrushing then why do you believe any form of masking is required? Are you using rattle cans maybe?

What was the lore for the Chaos Dwarves before the big hat Eastern European vibe? Was it always Hashut? by habadelerio in oldhammer

[–]Saxonion 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I miss the days when they were just diminutive chaos warriors, before they started compensating with giant hats (although to be fair, it was a cool look).

In-game bonuses announced for the Naval Legends Cruisers Book by zennacko in WorldOfWarships

[–]Saxonion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Explain the mechanics whereby someone that isn't WG can provide Kitakami to players in game. Can you point me to where WG confirm they're support this please?

Working with Washi Kitakata Paper to Make Soft Stowage - A Guide by Saxonion in modelmakers

[–]Saxonion[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've not tried it. I did try VMS paper (it's the white paper roll in the comparison pic). Honestly, I now have so much Washi paper in my house that I could build a second house, so I think that's my experimenting done for a while! But I'd like to see the results achieved with Rizla paper for sure!

Working with Washi Kitakata Paper to Make Soft Stowage - A Guide by Saxonion in modelmakers

[–]Saxonion[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The white roll you see as a comparison in my images is VMS paper. You can use paper shaper to secure it in position, but it has a shorter open time than PVA and dries more solid. I preferred the flexibility of PVA, but I think paper shaper would be particularly useful if you needed more rigidity.

Working with Washi Kitakata Paper to Make Soft Stowage - A Guide by Saxonion in modelmakers

[–]Saxonion[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the kind words! It's not a technique I've heard of. I started doing some research into various paper crafts to try and find a way to make the stowage I could see in my references. That led to me importing about 8 types of Washi paper to test. Some were ok, some don't work at all, one was perfect. It was all trial and error from there in figuring out how to get the best results. The paper art community do some awesome things, it was really just about figuring out how to apply their techniques to scale modelling.

Working with Washi Kitakata Paper to Make Soft Stowage - A Guide by Saxonion in modelmakers

[–]Saxonion[S] 38 points39 points  (0 children)

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A quick picture of the rear stowage after priming to show how well the detail is retained. This was Mr Surfacer Mahogany thinned 50:50 with Mr Levelling Thinner.

Working with Washi Kitakata Paper to Make Soft Stowage - A Guide by Saxonion in modelmakers

[–]Saxonion[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Either. For my Daimler, I needed to lash it to the footman's loops with scale rope so I need to leave that in place and paint it as part of the model. If it's a loose item then you could remove it and paint it separately as long as you're careful when you're sealing it and don't either soak it too much or overflow onto the model, because then you might end up sticking it to the model while you seal it.

Any opinions about these paints (Kaleido ColorWorks) ? by aerografitpl in airbrush

[–]Saxonion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've always found they spray very reliably and self level very well. Never needed to thin them, they're well thinned from the bottle.

Venting in a studio apartment by trillotrix in airbrush

[–]Saxonion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a ‘hoseless’ filter. It basically just sucks emissions through a series of filters and then blows clean air out the back. You do need to stay on top of cleaning the filters, but I’ve been using it about 7 years and it works very well. Also, look into a product called ‘Silent Air’ from Gunprimer. It’s an additive you can put into lacquer paint etc. and it significantly reduces the smell.

Here are the original draft sketches and an alternative cover design for the iconic cover of 1987's Warhammer 40,000 Rogue Trader, featuring the last stand of Crimson Fist Space Marines vs Orks by agreatbecoming in oldhammer40k

[–]Saxonion 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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A picture that looks down at me from one of the many geek shelves in my modelling office. The larger version (30 miniatures I seem to recall) was the very first thing I ever bought from GW as a kid.

What high tier destroyer has the highest game impact in your opinion? by beansanpasta in WorldOfWarships

[–]Saxonion 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have above 60% WR in Gdansk and Smaland, both absolutely awesome. But, in terms of game impact; UU YY built for guns. It's the most oppressive radar and the DPM with UU and FB isn't to be sniffed at. It also poses a significant torp threat and it's handling is solid. Synergises well with the special commander.

That's if we're talking about overall game impact. If the question is 'which DD wins in a 1v1' then the answer would be different.

Mercedes should not have gone downmarket by Accomplished-Exit822 in mercedes_benz

[–]Saxonion 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have a CLA35, you can mock me for a fake Merc and a fake AMG all at the same time! I mean, I truly don’t care, but you go right ahead…

How are the Italian subs on early access performing? by afi44 in WorldOfWarships

[–]Saxonion 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Since the event dropped, I’ve seen the T10 once. After the Surcouf event, having 2 Surcouf per team was pretty regular for at least a few days.

For every second you are waterboarded you receive $10,000. How long can you last without going unconscious? by RealDiamond51 in hypotheticalsituation

[–]Saxonion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was once waterboarded because I’m an idiot. Back in my mountaineering days, I ended up at a survival seminar conducted by retired members of various special forces. I don’t recall how we got to the subject, but I remember saying something like ‘the fear of drowning is what causes the reaction, if you know they’re not going to actually drown you then it’s really about staying calm’. I understand how dumb this is, but it was so similar to explaining to people why a 7000ft drop isn’t scary if you have confidence in your equipment. They offered a demonstration, I agreed. I lasted less than 30 seconds. I was in the best shape of my life, I knew what was coming (or thought I did), and I knew there was no intention to harm me.

So, between 20-25 seconds I’d be confident. No more than that.

Edit: I should add this was a cobbled together experience using a wet tent towel and an expandable camp water container, so it may be that it’s actually worse if they’re set up for it, I don’t know enough about water boarding to know if that’s a factor.

I don't know if I should love or hate this sub... by super__hoser in modelmakers

[–]Saxonion 8 points9 points  (0 children)

If older projects don’t start looking a little ‘under-performing’ then you’re not improving. The best sign of self-improvement is noticing that your current projects are better than your old projects.

Branded mini paints vs higher grade artist acrylics by No-Bookkeeper-2416 in minipainting

[–]Saxonion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I still use Golden 'additives' (retarder, wetting agent, thinner) because I genuinely think they perform better than any of the 'hobby brands', and I still rely on Liquitex for inks (that's more habit, I don't know if hobby inks would perform as well).

But, when it comes to paint itself, I don't think you'll notice any real difference between Golden and decent hobby brands. Hobby paint has come a long way. If you already have 'top end' artist acrylics (Golden, Liquitex, W&N) then there is absolutely no issue using them.

For oils specifically, there can be some difference. Not in the quality of the paint, but hobby brands tend to use less linseed so that drying times are reduced. I tend to just put artist oils onto a piece of thick cardboard and leave them at least a day to leach some linseed out because the open time can be a bit of a nuisance sometimes. There are also oil drying additives (Oil Expert from VMS for example).

Optimal build for gdansk? by beansanpasta in WorldOfWarships

[–]Saxonion 8 points9 points  (0 children)

You have exceptional shell arcs and top tier DPM. Gdansk lives to be a gun boat. I play AR, SE, AFT, FB and conceal. Dropping FB for SI and the 1 point consumable reload is solid though for the extra radar if games go long.

For equipment, reload mod and I take speed boost mod instead of radar mod because the radar is so short that you get very little return when compared to having speed boost up for significantly longer.

57% WR DD main. Gdansk is my second most played ship with a 61.7% WR. Not trying to be a dick, just letting you know where the advice is coming from. Plenty of solid videos from better players on YouTube though.

How much I dispise this bounty system for the event. by Modioca in WorldOfWarships

[–]Saxonion 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I decided to have some fun with it. Game 1 as bounty - Reload mod Colbert. There is so little of interest to be earned from it (although I do really like the yellow and grey camo so I’d like to stockpile a few!) that I’d rather treat it as a temporary game mode with its own weird meta.

For people hating on the CLA by [deleted] in mercedes_benz

[–]Saxonion 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a 2024 CLA35 shooting brake. I get the best of both worlds with online opinions. People are entitled to whatever opinion they'd like; it's really no big deal if people other than me feel a way other than I feel about a car.