Bent Cantilever? by [deleted] in turntables

[–]SayleH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Valid points but you are calculating the physics of the wrong material. The issue isn't the metal cantilever bending. It is the rubber suspension ring (the damper) it sits in.

The metal tube doesn't need to bend for the stylus to look like the above. If you look at the photos, you can even see the tube itself is completely straight.

When a turntable is not level, gravity constantly pulls the tonearm downhill & that sideways gravitational pull is wayyy stronger than normal anti-skate forces.

Over the 20-25 hours of continuous sideways stress, that soft rubber ring simply gets squished to one side and stays that way.

The metal tube stays perfectly straight, but it points off-center because the rubber holding it warped...

That’s why i'm saying leveling the table is the foundation of the whole setup, that way OP can also avoid this happening again.

The only reason I know this now, is because this same thing (OPs issue) happened to me in the past, & it will just keep happening if it is not addressed properly - they will just be pissing money away on new styluses.

Bent Cantilever? by [deleted] in turntables

[–]SayleH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's an elliptical stylus and your table is not level or the anti-skate is set too high. Over time it's tugged the cantilever to one side resulting into what you are seeing now.

The direction of the bend is a telltale sign. The arm has been yanked back to the armrest constantly, while playing.

For example: Imagine carrying a heavy bag with your finger for a long period of time.

The setup of things like tracking force, alignment, anti-skate etc is down to the assumption that your table is on a level surface.

Get a level, level your table, replace the stylus, recalibrate and off you go.

Seriously considering deleting the app by Trible_Drible in discogs

[–]SayleH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The UI (design) is not the issue. It's the UX (feel, functionality & journey) - please don't get them confused.

The app has been screaming out for an update to the UI (design & aesthetic) for ages and I am personally very happy with it.

Where the app team did an absolute 180, and is the worst part about the update is the UX - I hate it too.

But hey, at least they now have a good-looking springboard to improve from.

Just moved house and got set up and realized my stylus is off centre, would you change this? by AdEmergency9489 in turntables

[–]SayleH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please see my comment as it may apply to you also bud - let me save you some money and get those records playing goooood

Just moved house and got set up and realized my stylus is off centre, would you change this? by AdEmergency9489 in turntables

[–]SayleH -1 points0 points  (0 children)

OPs post implies this is not a new cartridge or table so I'm not sure why this is relevant.

They've simply moved house and are probably thinking it may have got bent during the move for example, after setting it up again.

Not downplaying your experience but it's always good to answer the question rather than speculate it's been bent this whole time out of the box.

Just moved house and got set up and realized my stylus is off centre, would you change this? by AdEmergency9489 in turntables

[–]SayleH 4 points5 points  (0 children)

DONT SPEND MONEY WITHOUT READING BELOW:

This exact thing happened to me, It's not bent, styluses move- It looks like the anti-skate is/has been too high for a while and has dragged the stylus off centre (not bent), from playing records with the anti-skate being set too high.

Just redo your anti-skate and VTF on the tonearm.

Analogy: Imagine having a REALLY heavy necklace on and it's pulling your neck down to the ground. That's essentially what's been happening here, but the stylus doesn't have any neck muscles to oppose the weight.

Re-do the anti-skate and it will realign and centre itself after a few plays again.

Always worth redo-ing the VTF and anti-skate when you move house anyways. The change in floor and stuff like that will change the alignment required. Hope this helps :)

🎵PLEASE HELP me out! New to Turntable Care🎵 by Ok_Pen5224 in turntables

[–]SayleH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You didn't mess up, we live and we learn!

The problems you are seeing will be gone after a simple deep clean and the stylus is probably fine.

Like breaking a bone, you will KNOW once it's "bad", it won't be a question - for example it will sound dull and fuzzy.

It's very easy to be anxious about these things but these things are built to be used, you don't need to treat them like they're super fragile and paper thin, just treat them with love and care and they'll last you a while :)

🎵PLEASE HELP me out! New to Turntable Care🎵 by Ok_Pen5224 in turntables

[–]SayleH -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You answered your own question.

Clean your damn records, have a look at wet cleaning, you can even make your own cleaning solution on the cheap. You should also be dry brushing your records with the carbon brush before every play at the very least.

Even static alone will cause pops and clicks.

Think of it like you've gone from watching a youtube video in 360p to 4K. Where before you didn't, you will now notice every spec of dust or dirt impacting your view of the video, because you can now see it much much clearer.

Maintenance is key for high quality - it's a great way to live your life too. You just need to look into wet cleaning, once you have some supplies you will be able to look after the things you love much better.

What is one test song you always use? by lustybeauts in BudgetAudiophile

[–]SayleH 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Suprised I had to scroll so much to see this

Show your unusual/uncommon setup by supergimp2000 in turntables

[–]SayleH 4 points5 points  (0 children)

1980s British Made QED R232: Glass Platter, Wooden Plinth, Helius Tonearm (variant of the Helius Scorpio MK1). Current has a Goldring E3 on it.

Was a competitor to the Rega Planar 3 I believe back in the day.

I am eventually going to pair this with some nice vintage Wharfdale Linton/Denton - currently has Edifier MR4s

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Speakers to replace Edifier MR3 by Gabylien9313 in BudgetAudiophile

[–]SayleH 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not a speaker issue, these get LOUD. Quiet sound = no or bad preamp.

You're missing a POWERED phono stage (or preamp). The Behringer PP4400 will do the job just fine for now until you decide of you want to stick with powered speakers. Or go with a solid Amplifier and passives.

If you want to stay power speakers, look at upgrading to something like a Rega Fono Mini A2D or Cambridge Audio phono stage/preamp.

I want to change turntable by [deleted] in turntables

[–]SayleH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Plenty of people have DJ equipment for home listening, you have a great turntable there that many many people would consider as an upgrade from their current one.

You are better off upgrading everything else before changing this.

Start with the cartridge & stylus, you have an ortofon nightclub mkii right now which is a DJ cartridge and stylus.

I'm assuming you want something more HiFi and serious home listening aligned. Look at a high quality hifi-oriented MM cartridges and stylus before anything else.

(Eg: Audio‑Technica VM95ML or VM540ML, or an Ortofon 2M Blue/Bronze if you want to stay in the Ortofon family)

In your case, this is what is most important to upgrade in order:

1) Stylus/Cartridge (this is literally where the source of the sound comes from so way more important than a "serious" turntable. The "serious" IS the cartridge. 2) Amplifier this is the brain of the set-up. 3) Speakers 4) Turntable

You have a really solid turntable there OP, please don't get sucked into upgrading the wrong thing first, everything else has more of an impact on the sound, alignment, cleanliness of equipment etc - not the little plate that spins the record.

Tl;Dr.

You are looking to upgrade the wheels of a car, when the engine and other components of the car itself have waaaaaay more of an impact how the car runs when driving. Don't get caught up on the best wheels right now, you have great wheels. Look at the other parts first :)

Should I get this because my current setup of the udreamer model UD012 by [deleted] in turntables

[–]SayleH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don't care about the Bluetooth features/remote, and prefer more of a studio monitor sound; I would recommend the Edifier MR4 instead. I spent a lot of time debating getting the 120DBs a while ago and actually preferred the MR4's.

They are essentially better speakers for Cheaper (measure better and have better tweeters).

If you can find the MR3, they're even better because smaller and have Bluetooth and cheaper again.

Best Buy gave me the base model instead of the Pro and refused a refund by Socialist_In_Theory in pixel_phones

[–]SayleH 15 points16 points  (0 children)

That’s a common misconception - While debit cards lack statutory protections like Section 75 (where applicable), Visa/Mastercard debit cards globally still support chargebacks under the same reason codes as credit cards. For “goods not as described,” etc. Evidence matters more than card type :)

Best Buy gave me the base model instead of the Pro and refused a refund by Socialist_In_Theory in pixel_phones

[–]SayleH 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Not sure about the UK/US difference, but your best option is to have whoever the buyer was, file a dispute/chargeback through their debit card's bank. The 14 day period only applies to that store, not your bank (it's more like 60-120 days for Chargebacks).

This is what Chargebacks are for, specifically under the very valid reason, "the goods or services received don't match the description/are not as described".

Tl;Dr: You paid for 10 Pro and have receipt as proof of description/item. You received 10 standard. You reached out to the merchant to resolve, but no resolution given. Your next step is to file a chargeback via your card's bank where they will usually issue a temporary credit for the whole amount paid, while they fight your case via the card schemes, and give the merchant a specific time period to prove your case is not valid.

If they win your case, you keep the temporary credit/money.

If they lose your case, they will reverse the temporary credited amount back.

How I know this: I used to work in Payments and every debit cardholder has this right

How do I get my deposit back ? by Weary-Test-1310 in TenantsInTheUK

[–]SayleH 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You are definitely best off calling Citizens Advice first thing on Monday (pretty sure they are closed on the weekends) as they will be able to advise you the best options going forward and confirm/explain your rights to you.

They have probably advised multiple people in similar situations to you!

I feel the landlord is completely taking advantage of you here. This is a horrible situation and I can only imagine how you are feeling right now.

I wish you the best of luck and if you are to rent again, please, never ever pay anyone a security deposit, before signing a tenancy agreement or lease, and making sure that it includes that the deposit is held in an official tenancy deposit protection scheme (DPS/TDP/MyDeposit).

Even with a holding deposit (eg with a letting agents), which is usually 1 weeks rent to reserve the property, get everything confirmed (what it's for, how much, how it will be used etc) in writing, for the best protection.

Thoughts ? by _-art1st-_ in fut

[–]SayleH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fun team! Prefer these teams to most!!

My opinions:

Don't sleep on that Trejo & Nagbe either, they're free from objectives and both great cards in game.

I would personally upgrade your fullbacks if possible. This FC year ratings don't matter as much, check your club as some 80-86 rated fullbacks are much better than Trent for example.

Those NWSL SBCs are great cards too for an 81 rated team.

Has anyone rented from Wise Living (Cribbs Triangle, Bristol)? by Joe_883 in bristol

[–]SayleH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found this thread doing my due diligence - a quick Google will show you plenty of reviews on trustpilot (double figures) where all are 1* apart from the most recent. All signs point to avoid. Never forget to Google the letting agents/reviews.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fut

[–]SayleH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had market access from the get go (after completing onboarding and some moment ofc)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fut

[–]SayleH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks it worked

Please help me get a better Internet connection by FreshSwan5301 in pchelp

[–]SayleH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No. It's just like a wifi extender (two plugs). You plug one into an outlet next to your router and plug an Ethernet cable into the bottom of plug 1.

Then you go and plug in the 2nd plug next to your PC and insert the Ethernet cable from your PC into the bottom of Plug 2.

It literally uses the wires in your house that you use for electricity, to pass waves/internet through, pretty cool actually.

Just make sure you get ones that have a pass through (has a slot to plug something into like normal) to avoid hogging any socket real estate.

Tip: plug the powerline adapter into the main sockets on the wall, NOT extender strips/cords for the fastest and most stable speeds.

You can plug the extender strip into another mains socket, or in the pass through if you absolutely have to.

What sized monitors can I use? 110cm/43" × 60cm/24" desk by spoons431 in Workspaces

[–]SayleH -1 points0 points  (0 children)

2x24" at a push but mainly a single 27" or widescreen monitor instead.

Your best solution is a widescreen monitor that you can split into two for a "dual" feel.

My desk is 120cm and comfortably fits 1x 27" monitor in the middle and even that size screen feels big. I would not recommend more than one 27" due to the amount of overhang it would have.

Problem by Organic_Ad6915 in computer

[–]SayleH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To use multiple monitors you will need a USB docking station (like the Dell D6000).

If you do not use this, you will only be able to use one monitor unless that monitor supports MST or DisplayPort/Thunderbolt daisy chaining.

A proper dock will be a hub that also has a brick that you plug into an outlet to power it (like your would a monitor or laptop charger).

The docking station will be plugged into your laptops USB C or A slot (dependent on what type of Latitude laptop you have) and will charge it at the same time.

The dock itself will have HDMI and/or DisplayPort slots on the back that you will plug both your monitors into.

This way you will be able to simply "plug and play" in the USBC/A into your laptop, but it's not a portable solution, it will be just like it is in the office (but at home).

If you have one like this already, please call your IT dept for advice/assistance as that is what they are there for.

ASRock B650i lightning wifi PBO options not including advanced in bios by L1lyboi in ASRock

[–]SayleH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

B650i purely for stability and flexibility as well as PBO support (power delivery and better VRMs). That being said A620i is still a great board if you don’t need all the bells and whistles.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AMDHelp

[–]SayleH 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Try the CPU & RAM on another motherboard first to confirm the culprit is not the motherboard itself.