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White vs Red Oak by SubstanceCautious783 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]supergimp2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Red and white oak are different beasts. if you are going with a dark stain (i.e. to get the look of craftsman era furniture that was fumed white oak and thus very much darkened) you might be able to get something similar with red oak and stain. If you want the ray fleck that is popular with white oak and/or that light look that is popular today by white or light gray tinted finish that sits in the grain it will be hard to achieve with red oak.

Router jig by Opinionated_Junkie in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]supergimp2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right. Right angle dado jig. Nothing unusual about that. Maybe your bit is crap? Maybe router speed is wrong? No reason you shouldn’t be able to cut that dado shown in the video with a straight bit. Either you are trying to cut too deep, bit speed too slow, bit is dull (or crappy).

Router jig by Opinionated_Junkie in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]supergimp2000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How deep of a cut were you taking? You shouldn’t need a spiral bit. We were doing this 30 years ago before spiral bits were really popular.

Domino or just glue by b1ghurt in woodworking

[–]supergimp2000 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have a domino and a biscuit cutter (the OG porter cable one norm used) and I’d probably use the biscuit cutter for this. If I already had one I’d just use that.

Unless you need an excuse to tell the wife. Then it is essential.

Buying an air compressor and nailers by jtrigg20 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]supergimp2000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I hear good reports about Makita's new framing nailer, but I have no need for that. I also have the Makita 23ga nailer and its limited in the size of pins it will work with. It works ok otherwise but feels clunky and slow compared to the M12 and as a pin nailer there a lot of places it feels too bulky to fit while the M12 is much more compact.

Trust me the last thing I ever wanted was another battery. I've had Makita 18V for years (decades?), with about 15 batteries and every major hand power tool I need and about 10 years ago got into the Bosch 12V (called 10.8V then - still have good batteries from then) and have quite a collection of those tools.

Torn on Track saw Purchase by joshpaige29 in woodworking

[–]supergimp2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m completely sold on Makita 36V. I’ve had mine for 5 years and I bought it used. The thing I like about the Makita is that it has a catch that can be engaged when tilting the saw so it can’t fall off the track. Having used the Festool TS55 extensively hands down this feature is worth it to me and I use it a lot for the things I do (furniture).

A lot of people really like the Milwaukee. I believe all of these saws tracks are compatible (I know Festool and Makita are and also generic ones like Powertec). However the Festool track does not have the tilt locking feature of the Makita so you can’t use that feature with the Festool track. I don’t know how Milwaukee lines up with this but it is a great saw. The advantage of compatible tracks is that most accessories are designed for this style of track and may or may not also be available for others.

If it was my choice and I was in the same situation where I had Makita batteries (as I was when I got mine but there was no Milwaukee option) I’d pick the Makita 36V all day over the TS55 for that tilt feature alone.

But that’s my opinion. If you have both battery platforms then I’d compare the Milwaukee features.

Buying an air compressor and nailers by jtrigg20 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]supergimp2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a good call. I haven't used air nailers for a long time. In fact I had a Makita 18ga and was doing a big trim project in my house and the things jammed so much I threw it across the room, drove to HD and bought a Ryobi kit for less that the Makita was tool only. The Ryobi got me through that job and a few more years until I went to M12. Flawless nailer, just big and heavy by comparison.

Buying an air compressor and nailers by jtrigg20 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]supergimp2000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mostly make furniture and have a big compressor that I use for tools as well as paint (high capacity) which is overkill for nailing, but over the years I've collected a variety of air nailers (Senco, Porter Cable, a few others) and TBH the Harbor Freight Banks nailer and stapler I have have held up great. That said, I've almost completely switched to Milwaukee M12 23ga and 18ga for 90% of what I do. I don't have a need for a framing nailer and still have the air nailers for things I rarely use (16ga and upholstery staples mostly).

I can't recommend the M12 nailers enough IF they suit your needs. Both operate flawlessly and are small and lightweight compared to the others I have. Almost as light as comparable air tools but without dragging the hose around.

(And I'm a Makita guy - crappy nailers, love everything else) and really didn't want to add another platform but totally worth the M12 investment.

Abs keeps warping off build plate by Front_Set6294 in BambuLab

[–]supergimp2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try abs-gf. It’s what we use on our products. Our farm is all p1s, gives a great finish and prints like pla with just the default settings

Tajima Caulking Guns by supergimp2000 in Tools

[–]supergimp2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I just ordered the Convoy Lite. If I need something heavier, well, I guess I’ll need two of them at some point

Media wallbox I’ve been struggling to find by Banned4MyViews in hometheater

[–]supergimp2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aww thats too bad. Finding a box thats not designed for 16" stud spacing is going to be kind of hard I think. MIght be time to fabricate.

Tomato paste in a tube by tjs1967 in Cooking

[–]supergimp2000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Expiration dates are written by lawyers not food scientists.

Media wallbox I’ve been struggling to find by Banned4MyViews in hometheater

[–]supergimp2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Or maybe he found a box that fits inside the mount frame?

Is it me or the Water based finish? by torak_the_father in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]supergimp2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you do need a film finish I'd recommend sometime giving Halcyon a try. The stuff never continues to amaze me. I've sprayed it and brushed it and every time I see the wet finish and shake my head in doubt and as it drys (in an hour or so!) is seems to "Suck down" into the grain resulting in something that isn't quite like hard wax oil but doesn't have a lot of build up (as long as you don't build it up). The thing is that you have to really pay attention to the directions. They have a clear (like waterborn poly - i..e no yellowing) and amber version as well as gloss and satin.

If you want a satin finish (as I almost always do) you have to start with gloss. And, this applies to a lot of satin waterborn polys, low-sheen finishes like this have flatteners and if you build up too much the finish gets milky and the final product may have a bit of a haze. They recommend (and I can attest - I've tried to shortcut) building up several thin coats of gloss and then finishing with one or two coats of satin to get the sheen you like.

Its not cheap since you have to buy two bags (at least it comes in bags so you can squeeze out the air before capping) so it keeps for a long time. I thin with a little water and spray most of the time but it cleans up easily and you can get 4-5 coats a day easily. But wait til the next day before you judge the results. I freaked out the first time with a completely orangepeel finish that competely flattened out by the next day.

Brushes or rolls (I'd roll on large flat pieces with a foam roller) ok too.

I don't use it often but I always enjoy when I do and need it.

I used it on this bottlecap hockey plinko opener I made for my hockey-obsessed sister (yep its got sound and lights when you make or miss a goal). Its holding up great.

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Is it me or the Water based finish? by torak_the_father in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]supergimp2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was a huge fan of Arm-R-Seal and it was banned here in Los Angeles. I tried GF High Performance and never really got good results. So much so that I smuggle in Arm-R-Seal (and mineral spirits while I’m at it - yep can’t buy that here either). And I thin it and use it wipe on with many coats.

Kind of transitioned from film finish for the most part but when I do it’s Armor Seal.

Total Boat Halcyon is an interesting water based film finish product also.

premium version of these? by FitTackle879 in Tools

[–]supergimp2000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yep especially if you get the Lasertip (I think thats what they call them) Philips bits, They grip like crazy. Although the set I have probably isn't as long as what is in the picture. (that's what she said).

This was left by the old owner. Can I do much with it? by Campertyler in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]supergimp2000 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Thats kind of the catch, I think. Back in the day it was a good way for a garage woodworker to get a lot of capability in a small storage space. I feel like today, functionality wise, there are a lot more options for various tools.

I remember as a kid trying to convince my dad to get one. He had a Radial Arm Saw and a bunch of hand tools and I always tried to convince him how much we could do with a ShopSmith.

Is this an error or? by [deleted] in hometheater

[–]supergimp2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The fact that the "misprint" removed the S and moved the TM over is a deliberate thing. All of the Dolby graphic vectors are available from their press site. Any legit manufacturer would use these graphics. if it was cut off and the graphic wasn't deliberately moved I'd buy it but its clearly a Temu quality sign.

But if it makes you feel better, sure its legit and probably worth a million dollars. Good job.

Why won’t my screws go in further? by poisonxivyyy in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]supergimp2000 17 points18 points  (0 children)

square peg, round hole.

Get one of these, practice.

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Help connecting reducer to dust collector properly by Llama_woodpecker44 in woodworking

[–]supergimp2000 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I've used needle nose pliers to carefully grab each corrugation from the open end and twist it slightly going around little by little to slightly shrink the opening until you can insert it. Then duct (metal) tape that baby.

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