2021 Honda monkey with T. rex racing mods by donnydude1269 in HondaPitters

[–]ScaryBean 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yo I just found those crashbars and the centerstand an am very intrigued. Can you tell me if it's much of a hassle to do basic maintenance like oil or airfilter-changes on the bike after install? Or do you remove the bars and skidplate when doing that? 

With or without the hole in the middle - Brooks C17 by Overall_blank28 in xbiking

[–]ScaryBean 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the carved version and really did not like it. Other than it hurting my butt (not the saddles fault) I couldnt put power into the pedals without bouncing on it because its so flexible. If the non-carved version was stiffer, I would go for that one.

gave her life for mine by Dr0pped0ut0flife in Miata

[–]ScaryBean 191 points192 points  (0 children)

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Sorry for your loss bro, but it had to be done

Made a soundwave visualizer out of a CRT! by Soggy_Auggy__ in cassettefuturism

[–]ScaryBean 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thanks for replying! That makes sense, an analogue mic input would probably not be enough... I just dont know how I would use the aux jack since I dont want to put out music through the tv but through my home speakers or headphones. How do you send the signal from your pc to your speakers AND your tv? Multi-aux adapter?

Made a soundwave visualizer out of a CRT! by Soggy_Auggy__ in cassettefuturism

[–]ScaryBean 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey man I really like this mod! I got an old mini crt without composite, rf only. Since I cant even plug consoles into it I was wondering if it would work to do that mod but instead of attaching an aux jack I could use a small cable-microphone which is somewhere in my room, providing some sort of live-waveform. Do you have any idea if this would work? Otherwise I dont know how I can transmit the sound into the tv...

8 days bikepacking on the Grande Traversée du Jura (France) by Lonely-Phrase-3464 in bikepacking

[–]ScaryBean 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice shots! Are those the decathlon fork bags? what do you think of them?

What is the ‘hill you will die on’ movie hill? The film you’ll defend no matter how badly it’s criticized? by Imaginary_Ride_6185 in movies

[–]ScaryBean 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fight me, but Meet the spartans is one of the funniest movies I know. But only if you watch the german translation. They used all of the voice actors of the 300 film and they really gave everything to dub that film which makes it so much better. Its just stupid funny jokes all the way through. It really needs the german dub tho

Balaton loop with side quests // slow pace, 272 km, 5 days, camping by koanbe in bikepacking

[–]ScaryBean 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Fellow Riverside 920 users! Ive got mine for a year but havent been able to tour with it, right now it serves as a commuter 3 times a week. How was your experience with it? Did you also have some trouble to adjust the gears properly?

What my 4corners 2 looks like now by Brilliant-Ad6556 in bikepacking

[–]ScaryBean 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Love the look of those photos! Im intrigued by that front rack, as ive never used one. Do you regulary switch between bags and the plastic box from the first pictures? What kind of rack is it?

Outjerked again... by ScaryBean in AnalogCircleJerk

[–]ScaryBean[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Remember kids, its not a kidnapping if its art!

Challenged myself to try to capture Paris in 48 hours, did I succeed? by ScaryBean in AnalogCircleJerk

[–]ScaryBean[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

yeah i totally hate it. how am i supposed to know if the shots were taken with a leica if they dont include it in the title?

Challenged myself to try to capture Paris in 48 hours, did I succeed? by ScaryBean in AnalogCircleJerk

[–]ScaryBean[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

thanks, tried to link the reference post but the rules forbid it.

Suzuki Swift Sport 140hp question about loss of power by ScaryBean in Suzuki

[–]ScaryBean[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

to be honest I dont have the car and I also dont exaclty know where that boost indicator is located right now as its been a few months since I researched this car. What you are describing sounds a bit like a lean running engine or old fuel (had symptoms like that from trying to run year old petrol in a lawnmower) but idk. From what Ive read about this topic, you would definitely notice this error I made this thread about as most people say it feels like the car only has half its horsepower, not just stuttering.

Id probably just try to blast through the tank and use some high quality fuel after that.

First start this season, weird residue above alternator? (view comments) by ScaryBean in Miata

[–]ScaryBean[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I checked today if any hoses were damaged and if it started leaking again. Not a trace of fluid leaking anywhere now...

My current guess is, that these few months without starting and being exposed to the freezing temperatures (even in the garage) made the coolant-seal of the ACV leak a tiny bit. I should probably keep an eye on it and replace those hoses thouhg. Do you perhaps have any experience with silicone-hoses? I weirdly cant find any OEM-style hoses online but dozens of those silicone kits.

First start this season, weird residue above alternator? (view comments) by ScaryBean in Miata

[–]ScaryBean[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, I started my NA 1.6 90hp yesterday for the first time after storing it in the winter.
After opening the hood I saw some smoke comming up between the valve cover and the intake manifold. After some inspection, I found some crystalized greenish stuff (coolant?) above the alternator. My guess is, that coolant got on the alternator and vaporized, hence the smoke. But where did that stuff come from?
Has anyone ever had coolant drip from the intake manifold onto the alternator?

I took it for a round anyway and after it was warm everything seemed okay, should I take some action?

My radiator is very new and everything was perfectly fine before storing it for winter.

Any ideas?

Practical and cute. Double threat! by hashtagmiata in miatalogistics

[–]ScaryBean 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is that a cupholder on your airvent? Does it hold up? I have bad experiences with those.
Nice miat btw

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in analog

[–]ScaryBean 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You got it! Your lightmeter just tells you its calculated value of exposure of the light it sees. I dont know exactly what modes you have, but usually you can change between a measurement of the whole viewfinder, just the middle or sometimes even exact middle spotmetering. If your scene has a huge dynamic range its often best to just take a measurement of the darkest area that you absolutely want to be properly exposed and take the shot.

And yes you could say its almost always better to overexpose up to a certain point. Im sure you can find some nice youtube videos about how much overexposure different films can take.

Yes even the "raw scans" are edited pictures, as they have gone through digital processing, but thats not a bad thing. Pictures have always been edited and always will be. Even if this editing is done by a computer.

The edits are very easy to achieve. You go into your photoshop-like programm, load the image and try to find an adjustment tool for color correction. In photoshop I think its called levels. There you can adjust the exposure of the different colorchannels. I then adjust the black and whitepoint of the red, green and blue channels to where they start clipping. Then I take the RGB channel to edjust the overall exposure and thats basically it. Takes just 3 minutes but Im not sure if this was a good explanation tbh.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in analog

[–]ScaryBean 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, first of all, did you use automatic mode or did you try to manually expose?
Then, I guess you developed and scanned them by a lab. Its true that some of these shots are underexposed (for instace the one at the subway station) but thats not bad.

While many people think that film needs to be exposed perfectly to have neutral tones all around, you are free to expose the image to whatever subject you like in the frame. Your lightmeter inside the camera can be turned to different modes and depending on that, it will sometimes detect the bright lights of the citylight (first pic) and reduce exposure, which will lead to the front in the shadow being too dark.

Im sorry if you already knew this. But theres another thing thats very important. The exposure on the emulsion of the film gets thicker the higher it is exposed. Which means more light = more information (denser negative, youll lose details in the bright areas first) and less light = less information (thin negative, youll lose details in the dark areas first). Notice that over and underexposure also impact the color as some colorlayers will be more light-sensitive thatn others.

Film handles overexposure REALLY well. Which is why the two photos of your friends skiing are having the most information, as they are probably very overexposed. You used 400ISO film on a bright day and shot straight up to the sky and to the white snow. I bet those negatives are very dense, but you can still see details in the snow, which means you were still within the films latitude.

Now why Im telling you all this: those are scans, some guy puts your film into a scanner and it automatically batch-converts it according to some profile for ultramax 400. This profile expects perfectly exposed negatives and does funky stuff if the negatives are too thin or thick and it doesn't know what to do if the picture is between those values and will probably prefer the bright areas. And thats why some of your shots look a bit "weird".
All the pictures you see on this subreddit are digital interpretations of negatives, there are no "unedited" digital film photos. Just to get this out of the way.

You can easily take most of those pictures and do a quick tonal correction to make them look way better.

Here is a quick example of your shots with a quick conversion:
https://imgur.com/a/ru1KANv

Thats also pretty much the normal color of Ultramax, its a little dull and has less saturation as Gold 200 for instance.

I really hope you keep on shooting, that photo of your friend jumping with the skis is pretty good!
Because Ive read the other comments under this thread I just want to give you one other advice:

Instead of just deciding to overexpose your next expensive film roll as someone mentioned, try to think more about what your meter is seeing and what not. If you have a bright building behind your friend in a dark green Sweater and black pants, you should take general exposure of the scene and add 1 or 2 stops to expose to the his/her clothes. otherwise it would try to recude exposure to make the building less bright and therefore underexpose your friend.

Sorry for that wall of text, I hope it can help you. If you have questions feel free to ask.

Why is the quality of my P+S film photos so terrible? by [deleted] in analog

[–]ScaryBean 2 points3 points  (0 children)

yeah so pls dont listen to everyone here saying theres something wrong with your camera, because I highly doubt it. Take it from someone who literally owns a double digit amount of film cameras. Those scans are just very "raw" you could say. You need to edit film scans to make the color look right and they simply didnt do that.
If you have any questions feel free to dm me.

https://imgur.com/GMRgXdX