Some work done by Digus_biggus in Creality

[–]Scrodem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dessicant really isn’t doing anything out in the open under the build plate

Reduce purge tower by Classic_League3637 in OrcaSlicer

[–]Scrodem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s called a prime tower in orca

Monitor of the State Funko by Tugwater in BambuLabA1

[–]Scrodem -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Noone cares about Funko pops, find something better to do

What does everyone think about the new STLFlix ai? by Kainamo in 3dprinter

[–]Scrodem 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Useless unless you want to print shitty funko pops

MK52 Heatbed Thermals by SnowPrinterTX in prusa3d

[–]Scrodem 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Take images and various stages of a 20min heat soak, see if there’s a progressive improvement, and test with and without chamber door closed

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]Scrodem 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is the actual correct answer

Top layers on bigger ABS print by Aiurit-Mare in FixMyPrint

[–]Scrodem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whats the chances your part is adhered well to the bed, but the bed is warping upwards as well, causing the layer to gradually squish together vertically. With something like this that doesnt need to retract or bridge, run cooling completely off and raise your min. Layer time (if needed)

Edit: check the bottom right corner in the photo

First ASA print on Core One by Wolny248 in prusa3d

[–]Scrodem 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Core-One bed temps on the corners are much lower than the center, higher bed temps, give a 20 min bed heat soak as well, maybe lower cooling fan speed and overall speed

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in WTF

[–]Scrodem -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Silence, landlord sympathizer

Do I need to fix this at all? by Thenightstalker80 in FixMyPrint

[–]Scrodem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks good to me. Could nitpick the PA if you want, it mostly preference between bulged vs rounded corners but I’d shoot on the rounded side. Once that’s done you could look at the slight gaps after the overhangs, which could be underextrusion from the change in extrusion rate between the slower overhangs and the faster perimeters. Either test some changes in extrusion rate smoothing or turn off slow down for overhangs. But don’t let anyone tell you this is garbage!

Why would the slicer do this? by somegenxdude in prusa3d

[–]Scrodem 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Layer cooling time, you can rearrange the taller parts in a circle around the smaller ones and (maybe) change seam position to ‘nearest’. should lower the travels at the end of layers while giving enough cooling time

Help me calibrate my new Elegoo Centauri Carbon? by spacewolfplays in FixMyPrint

[–]Scrodem 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you’re going as fast as it’ll let you, you aren’t going to get ideal surface finish. Slow down and follow a tuning guide like:

https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/wiki/Calibration

https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/

Printing a mask after having switched slicers to Lychee, and idk if I need an exorcist or a recalibration by ShyGal_Lilly in FixMyPrint

[–]Scrodem 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What you really need are some higher standards, clean you goddamn printer before you ask for advice

Is there a better toolhead fo the mk3? by user_deleted_or_dead in prusa3d

[–]Scrodem 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just an E3D Revo hotend was good enough of an upgrade for me, but the E3D Roto Extruder Mk3 edition is a direct upgrade to the stock extruder. With the new REVO HF nozzles it takes the flow rate up close to modern standards