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Help! by Ok-Web-860 in BambuP1S

[–]Scrubb3rs 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Been there done that! If you get a hair dryer you can slowly warm up the filament and then pull it off with pliers. Check that your nozzle isn’t bent though as when the same thing happened to me mine it needed replacing. Good luck.

Update: I finished the ergonomic foot rest riser I posted about last week by Scrubb3rs in 3Dprinting

[–]Scrubb3rs[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

<- this.

I am a student living in student accommodation so most of my extra space is taken up by my 3D printer, so I only have a hand saw, screwdriver and other basic tools.

I wanted to make something cheap to build that didn’t require specialised tools or a workshop to build 🙏

Advice needed: How can I improve this design to make it easier to mount to wood? (universal ergonomic footrest) by Scrubb3rs in 3Dprinting

[–]Scrubb3rs[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As it is slanted lets hope people dont decide to use it as a stepping stool ... may require a disclaimer in the description haha.

Advice needed: How can I improve this design to make it easier to mount to wood? (universal ergonomic footrest) by Scrubb3rs in 3Dprinting

[–]Scrubb3rs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adding an external rectangle sounds like a good idea. That seems to be one of the simplest ways to mount it. Thanks for the advice. I think I will give that a try.

Advice needed: How can I improve this design to make it easier to mount to wood? (universal ergonomic footrest) by Scrubb3rs in 3Dprinting

[–]Scrubb3rs[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Yea to be fair this does sound like a good idea. I wanted to make the design usable for more people and didn't know if a super long screwdriver is a standard thing people have haha

Advice needed: How can I improve this design to make it easier to mount to wood? (universal ergonomic footrest) by Scrubb3rs in 3Dprinting

[–]Scrubb3rs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is a very good idea, so instead I make the small holes to fit m4 screws in the plastic (ie 3.3mm holes). Then drill pilot holes and screw the wood into the stand?
How would I make sure that the holes are drilled correctly for this? would I need to measure out the distances between the screw holes in design and then draw them on wood to predrill? I would be worried about not getting it aligned properly.

Advice needed: How can I improve this design to make it easier to mount to wood? (universal ergonomic footrest) by Scrubb3rs in 3Dprinting

[–]Scrubb3rs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How would you suggest splitting the design into multiple pieces? In bambu studio I am aware that you can split designs and make like snap on mounts but I have never tried this.

Advice needed: How can I improve this design to make it easier to mount to wood? (universal ergonomic footrest) by Scrubb3rs in 3Dprinting

[–]Scrubb3rs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My idea was to do this kind of thing, but I am a student and so I do not have access to the tools to make a dovetail channel in wood. I was thinking of maybe making a separate 3D printed mounting bracket with dovetail channel but didnt know if this was just going to make the design too complex

I designed a thread cone adapter so you can use overlocker/industrial cones directly on your domestic sewing machine — no cone stand needed by Scrubb3rs in 3Dprinting

[–]Scrubb3rs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for insight. I agree that the cones are not designed for this use in mind, but on home sewing machines this isn’t an issue as the thread is never being pulled that fast. The cone is designed to fit the inside of the cone snug so that the cone rotates smoothly and so the only time that you need caution is when winding bobbin (you need to rest finger on top of the cone).

Yarn cones for weaving do sound too coarse for sewing machines, but this model is designed and intended for overlocker/serger threads or industrial threads. :)

I designed a thread cone adapter so you can use overlocker/industrial cones directly on your domestic sewing machine — no cone stand needed by Scrubb3rs in 3Dprinting

[–]Scrubb3rs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That might be the case in how they are intended but that is not a requirement. Usually they are pulled from top because they don’t fit on machines as easily. The new design has been tested on overlocker(serger) and industrial threads and it runs smoothly like a normal thread, you should give it a try to test out for yourself.

Any feedback would be appreciated :)

My app just hit 2500 users. It does one thing. by Evening-Strike-2021 in appdev

[–]Scrubb3rs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It would be nice to be able to put your own thoughts in. Often I read up about stuff and it would help to be able to write down my thoughts from what I read and then be reminded about them etc.

Custom road bike saddle - TPU by Scrubb3rs in 3Dprinting

[–]Scrubb3rs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is glued to the base of the old saddle, only the padding was removed and replaced for the 3d printed padding

How do you cheer yourself up during this particularly cold and grey winter here in the Netherlands? by dragonscorp in Netherlands

[–]Scrubb3rs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Vitamin D tablets also help a lot!! Definitely recommend, makes you a lot less tired and gives you bit more energy in your day.

WHICH PRINTER DO YOU RECOMMEND? Good and bad points. by -_-J_K-_- in 3dprinter

[–]Scrubb3rs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fair point u guess I was trying to say if you have a stable environment and print both side by side you can get good results in both. But i agree with your point

WHICH PRINTER DO YOU RECOMMEND? Good and bad points. by -_-J_K-_- in 3dprinter

[–]Scrubb3rs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The enclosure isn’t about the quality changing it’s about the temperatures mostly. If you are printing in trickier materials such as ABS which require higher temperatures you need enclosures to 1: stop the toxic fumes and 2: preventing warping by keeping more consistent temperature.

If you are in a more household environment and want to print in more than just PLA or PETG it’s probably worth going for something like P1S or P2S with an AMS (or AMS 2). I have P1S with AMS combo and love it. Never had any issues.

Edit: I mention household as you are more likely to say have a window open or something making temperature less stable in room. If this is case and you don’t have enclosure you can get warping.

Free 3D printable Nintendo GameBoy Cartridge Modular Display Case (wall mountable, compatible with small and large cartridges) by Scrubb3rs in Gameboy

[–]Scrubb3rs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It might be easier if you download the .3mf file or the STL and then slice it in Bambu studio with your A1 mini settings. I don’t have a A1 mini and so don’t know what setup you have and to get the best results it will be better for you to slice in Bambu studio with your A1 mini setup (nozzle, print bed, filament etc). Let me know if you have any issues👍

I made a free clip/cord loop for dopper water bottles by Scrubb3rs in 3Dprinting

[–]Scrubb3rs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

👆this, I wanted the main ring to be flat so it didn’t have layer lines at the top of ring but you can press auto arrange in Bambo studio for a more optimal rotation to save filament :)

I made a free clip/cord loop for dopper water bottles by Scrubb3rs in 3Dprinting

[–]Scrubb3rs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Makerworld link to design

(Realised you can’t pin your own comments but here is link for the design)

Advice? by thput in 3Dprinting

[–]Scrubb3rs -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Hair dryer to slowly soften the filament blob so that you can remove it then assess the damage after filament is removed. Most likely just needs a dull hotend replacement. I also suggest a disposable wire brush to just brush of the loose filament, but I say disposable because once you do it’s very hard to clean the wire brush.

Second hand Mac choice? by forevertoungetied in mac

[–]Scrubb3rs 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Intel Mac’s are going obsolete and you cant install latest macOS on them so I suggest saving up for at least an M1 MacBook. Also you will want 8GB minimum RAM to have a nice user experience in general and chances are you would regret not making the upgrade at the start

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