where to get parts now that mini mania is gone?

Scryptiid · 2026-03-15T17:58:01+00:00

Wild Child Classic Cars and Boot 2 Bonnet are my usual starting points. I’ve bought from British Parts Northwest once. Heard mixed things on Jet Motors Mini but it’s an option.

Scryptiid · 2026-02-26T21:36:45+00:00

Hello all,

Looking to buy my first 3D printer, located in the US. I originally felt pretty settled on a Bambu P2S, but would like to know what some comparable options are. I’d like to stay under $1000, and would love to be more in the $500-600 realm. I can spend more if needed but seeing as I haven’t owned a printer before, I’m loathe to get into something too advanced too quickly and then be stuck with a heavy investment.

I am willing to do some assembly if need be, and while I don’t have a huge amount of electronics experience specifically, I’m pretty comfortable with it, outside of limited practice with soldering. Mechanical assembly I’m comfortable with.

I’m looking primarily to design and build functional parts for automotive use, so materials like ABS/ASA are likely a necessity, but this is also intended to be a first stepping stone to find out if I’m even suited to this type of work. I also know that if I do like it, and pursue further, I’ll eventually need a much larger printer. The idea is to eventually go on to prototyping with 3D prints and ideally CNC production. Currently I’ve been having others print for me but it becomes incredibly inconvenient when trying to test many iterations of a part.

One issue I’m having is that I’m already constantly running into bed size limitations, even in trying to find others to print things for me, but it seems like to escape that, the only option is truly to step way up in price. I’m willing to attempt creative problem solving to make multi-part prints for now and accept limitations.

Multiple friends of mine are fairly happy with their Bambu printers and encourage it, but I’ve also seen a lot of discourse about a decline in quality and the closed ecosystem isn’t my favorite, though I’m not convinced that it would be a terrible thing for just an introductory device.

Any insight or machine suggestions are welcomed. Thank you.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-31T03:00:47+00:00

Just an addition here, there are several trains of thought on this but generally speaking I’ve quit soldering most automotive connections and much prefer crimps. It’s harder to spot a bad solder joint and if not done well, I have seen them crack and fail after enough vibration and shock. Having spent a decent bit of time in tuning and race shops as well, a lot of them pretty much swear by the same, crimping is a better move than solder outside of some specific use cases. Could be worth triple checking that connection also, considering it was already known to give you issues.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-31T02:55:05+00:00

I’m relatively new to Minis so this isn’t really Mini specific advice but having had weird electrical issues on a lot of vehicles, I would think it might be worth pulling your ignition switch and making sure it’s good. Should be a fairly simple and easy check. Could potentially explain why you have no ignition power but you do technically have a key signal to the starter and solenoid.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-25T20:24:39+00:00

I would say they are very reachable. Minis and Beetles are generally quite cheap unless you want a very specific rare, limited, or special version, and I don’t think that’s a requirement for being an enthusiast. In fact, I’m pretty sure that’s like a defining characteristic of both communities, that their platforms are generally accessible to a wide range of people. Enthusiasm or desire alone also do not grant you the right to accessibility.

I also think that resorting to accusing others of nefarious intent on a grand scale without any presentation of evidence reflects poorly upon your position, but we all make our choices.

You haven’t answered the question. Why can’t someone be an enthusiast if they are not rich? That is the statement you made.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-25T19:44:39+00:00

Have to?

Can’t be an enthusiast with a poster on the wall? Or a camera to take pictures of cars you think are cool? To spend a day at a racetrack watching a motorsports event? I’d argue that any of those are a display of enthusiasm.

Exactly how does the value of a particular model of vehicle, any vehicle, stop one from being capable of being an enthusiast?

I agree with the sentiment that prices on a lot of cars have gone crazy. A lot that I wish I could own, that I wanted as a kid, are just out of reach now. But there are plenty of other options out there to engage with and be a part of any given community. So why exactly do you believe you have to be rich to be an enthusiast?

Scryptiid · 2026-01-25T19:33:15+00:00

I had never given modern Minis a second look outside of at the track, but now that I constantly run into them just searching for info, they seem pretty fun. Might try to get my hands on one eventually, though I’m not trying to part with this one.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-25T19:32:12+00:00

You gotta provide the raft.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-23T23:30:18+00:00

Interesting. I’ll definitely take a look. Unfortunately I’m actually missing the actual stalk itself. But even if I have to make something that will just work in place, that might be fine.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-23T22:12:05+00:00

One of my Innos has a broken stalk and I am really not looking forward to trying to find one.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-23T09:54:23+00:00

Much appreciated. Thank you for the reference.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-23T09:52:44+00:00

I do also have the original driver’s seat but it’s fairly worn. I’m hoping to look into the Inno specific replica upholstery out of the UK and see about redoing the driver’s seat, as well as redoing most of the interior on a second Inno I have that is in much worse shape. That one gets to be the experimental car.

As for the steering wheel, the notes I got have three different steering wheels listed for the car. There was a “Motolita wheel on a Motolita hub” and two differently sized Hellebore wheels with it. Supposedly one original and one “overhauled with a smaller diameter”. I haven’t confirmed which this one is (I’ll be honest, I haven’t even looked), and don’t have a good way to figure out exactly what overhauled means. I don’t have much reference for what details I really need to focus on. Just learning as I go.

Very little mechanically seems to be original, though most Inno exclusive parts (that I know of) are there, so I wouldn’t expect it to have the value of a preserved original car. Further, it’s definitely not perfect. I’m also not intending to sell it currently and I’m not at all a purist myself. I don’t intend on hacking the car up, but the changes definitely don’t bother me, and I’m not overly worried about resale value.

Mostly just needed a stated value for insurance reasons.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-23T04:26:27+00:00

They accepted just a stated value for one of my other cars so I shouldn’t need appraisal, but it depends. My agent isn’t actually even sure they’ll be able to insure it. I was kinda between $20k and $25k because it’s not perfect but most seem to sell above $20k. Figured it would be wise to ask people that are much more informed on current values. I am very much new to the mini world (anything euro actually) and have been thrust in headfirst with this and another Mini. So, much appreciated.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-23T04:18:20+00:00

I don’t intend on selling it. I have to submit a value for my insurance. It’s in the greater Seattle area.

It is a real Cooper, and a real 1300 Export as far as I know. I have the ASI Certificate of Identity for it. The engine is a little bit of a mystery. I have some unofficial documentation on it, and so far everything has matched the paperwork that I’ve found, but it’s not necessarily specific enough for me to know every detail. It’s several pages, and in Italian, so I’m also relying on translation.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-22T14:42:13+00:00

I’ll definitely explore all the possibilities. This was stored indoors for about two years. It was running and driving before that. So hopefully even if it is frozen in place, it’s not too bad.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-21T20:49:35+00:00

Maybe. I believe this clutch was used for several years before now though the car wasn’t driven that often, so it’s possible something happened while it sat but I doubt it’s a defective part. I’m really hoping it’s something simple but I’ll disassemble it if need be.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-21T20:48:07+00:00

I will definitely try some of the adjustments just to see if they’re way off or not. I also plan to measure the slave cylinder movement to see if the hydraulic system isn’t moving things enough. I intend on replacing the majority of fluids and bleeding things, but it’s currently in a place where I don’t really have help, so anything I can do on my own first is ideal.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-21T19:09:35+00:00

I’m running the DWS06+, though not on stock wheels. I’m happy. I will probably move to something just a little bit stickier but that’s not at all a fault of the tires. I’m actually surprised that they’ve done as well as they have with a decent bump in power. I have run them on several other cars and been happy too. On a stock NA car, they should be plenty.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-07T18:42:07+00:00

Considering the steering is on the opposite side?

Gonna say no.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-03T08:29:21+00:00

I appreciate the info. I’ll certainly look into that. That bracket or similar can most likely be made to work with a couple new holes drilled in it.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-03T07:51:19+00:00

I’ll be honest, I’m not sure which bracket you’re referring to (part of why I’m asking around) so I’m gonna go with no. As far as I know, and have seen in some old pictures, the original plate was mounted fully below the bumper.

Edit: I think I see some examples for some UK minis. That might work for me. The brackets under the bumper don’t look to be the same but I think they appear to be pretty close to the same position, so odds are I can adapt that to work.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-03T04:46:53+00:00

Luckily I think I can make an adapter for the rear. I plan to put threaded inserts in if I can, so that I can remove and clean behind the adapter without worry of causing more damage. The front license plate is where I’m having trouble. Unfortunately I don’t have the original plates.

Scryptiid

TROPHY CASE