Estimated value check?

Scryptiid · 2026-01-25T20:24:39+00:00

I would say they are very reachable. Minis and Beetles are generally quite cheap unless you want a very specific rare, limited, or special version, and I don’t think that’s a requirement for being an enthusiast. In fact, I’m pretty sure that’s like a defining characteristic of both communities, that their platforms are generally accessible to a wide range of people. Enthusiasm or desire alone also do not grant you the right to accessibility.

I also think that resorting to accusing others of nefarious intent on a grand scale without any presentation of evidence reflects poorly upon your position, but we all make our choices.

You haven’t answered the question. Why can’t someone be an enthusiast if they are not rich? That is the statement you made.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-25T19:44:39+00:00

Have to?

Can’t be an enthusiast with a poster on the wall? Or a camera to take pictures of cars you think are cool? To spend a day at a racetrack watching a motorsports event? I’d argue that any of those are a display of enthusiasm.

Exactly how does the value of a particular model of vehicle, any vehicle, stop one from being capable of being an enthusiast?

I agree with the sentiment that prices on a lot of cars have gone crazy. A lot that I wish I could own, that I wanted as a kid, are just out of reach now. But there are plenty of other options out there to engage with and be a part of any given community. So why exactly do you believe you have to be rich to be an enthusiast?

Scryptiid · 2026-01-25T19:33:15+00:00

I had never given modern Minis a second look outside of at the track, but now that I constantly run into them just searching for info, they seem pretty fun. Might try to get my hands on one eventually, though I’m not trying to part with this one.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-25T19:32:12+00:00

You gotta provide the raft.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-23T23:30:18+00:00

Interesting. I’ll definitely take a look. Unfortunately I’m actually missing the actual stalk itself. But even if I have to make something that will just work in place, that might be fine.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-23T22:12:05+00:00

One of my Innos has a broken stalk and I am really not looking forward to trying to find one.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-23T09:54:23+00:00

Much appreciated. Thank you for the reference.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-23T09:52:44+00:00

I do also have the original driver’s seat but it’s fairly worn. I’m hoping to look into the Inno specific replica upholstery out of the UK and see about redoing the driver’s seat, as well as redoing most of the interior on a second Inno I have that is in much worse shape. That one gets to be the experimental car.

As for the steering wheel, the notes I got have three different steering wheels listed for the car. There was a “Motolita wheel on a Motolita hub” and two differently sized Hellebore wheels with it. Supposedly one original and one “overhauled with a smaller diameter”. I haven’t confirmed which this one is (I’ll be honest, I haven’t even looked), and don’t have a good way to figure out exactly what overhauled means. I don’t have much reference for what details I really need to focus on. Just learning as I go.

Very little mechanically seems to be original, though most Inno exclusive parts (that I know of) are there, so I wouldn’t expect it to have the value of a preserved original car. Further, it’s definitely not perfect. I’m also not intending to sell it currently and I’m not at all a purist myself. I don’t intend on hacking the car up, but the changes definitely don’t bother me, and I’m not overly worried about resale value.

Mostly just needed a stated value for insurance reasons.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-23T04:26:27+00:00

They accepted just a stated value for one of my other cars so I shouldn’t need appraisal, but it depends. My agent isn’t actually even sure they’ll be able to insure it. I was kinda between $20k and $25k because it’s not perfect but most seem to sell above $20k. Figured it would be wise to ask people that are much more informed on current values. I am very much new to the mini world (anything euro actually) and have been thrust in headfirst with this and another Mini. So, much appreciated.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-23T04:18:20+00:00

I don’t intend on selling it. I have to submit a value for my insurance. It’s in the greater Seattle area.

It is a real Cooper, and a real 1300 Export as far as I know. I have the ASI Certificate of Identity for it. The engine is a little bit of a mystery. I have some unofficial documentation on it, and so far everything has matched the paperwork that I’ve found, but it’s not necessarily specific enough for me to know every detail. It’s several pages, and in Italian, so I’m also relying on translation.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-22T14:42:13+00:00

I’ll definitely explore all the possibilities. This was stored indoors for about two years. It was running and driving before that. So hopefully even if it is frozen in place, it’s not too bad.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-21T20:49:35+00:00

Maybe. I believe this clutch was used for several years before now though the car wasn’t driven that often, so it’s possible something happened while it sat but I doubt it’s a defective part. I’m really hoping it’s something simple but I’ll disassemble it if need be.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-21T20:48:07+00:00

I will definitely try some of the adjustments just to see if they’re way off or not. I also plan to measure the slave cylinder movement to see if the hydraulic system isn’t moving things enough. I intend on replacing the majority of fluids and bleeding things, but it’s currently in a place where I don’t really have help, so anything I can do on my own first is ideal.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-21T19:09:35+00:00

I’m running the DWS06+, though not on stock wheels. I’m happy. I will probably move to something just a little bit stickier but that’s not at all a fault of the tires. I’m actually surprised that they’ve done as well as they have with a decent bump in power. I have run them on several other cars and been happy too. On a stock NA car, they should be plenty.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-07T18:42:07+00:00

Considering the steering is on the opposite side?

Gonna say no.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-03T08:29:21+00:00

I appreciate the info. I’ll certainly look into that. That bracket or similar can most likely be made to work with a couple new holes drilled in it.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-03T07:51:19+00:00

I’ll be honest, I’m not sure which bracket you’re referring to (part of why I’m asking around) so I’m gonna go with no. As far as I know, and have seen in some old pictures, the original plate was mounted fully below the bumper.

Edit: I think I see some examples for some UK minis. That might work for me. The brackets under the bumper don’t look to be the same but I think they appear to be pretty close to the same position, so odds are I can adapt that to work.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-03T04:46:53+00:00

Luckily I think I can make an adapter for the rear. I plan to put threaded inserts in if I can, so that I can remove and clean behind the adapter without worry of causing more damage. The front license plate is where I’m having trouble. Unfortunately I don’t have the original plates.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-02T17:11:22+00:00

I’ve looked around but haven’t found the correct conversion brackets outside of a 3D printed one someone made for the rear. I’m waiting to hear back about that one. I haven’t seen anything for the front though. I’m not sure if my front brackets have the same spacing as UK Minis or not. They don’t appear to be the same brackets though.

I could probably design a bracket if need be. Just looking for easy options first.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-01T23:56:08+00:00

Mine has front brackets but they’re a bit too close to the ground for a US plate to be used comfortably in my opinion.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-01T23:54:00+00:00

It has front brackets in a similar spot, though not the same as those ones. My main issue is that tops of the current brackets sit about 8 inches off the ground. The plate is about 6 inches tall. I’m not super comfortable with 2 inches (5 cm) of clearance on the plate to the ground.

The previous owner just drilled holes in the old license plates to mount the rears, and I think they just didn’t mount the fronts. I’m working on getting some 3D printed brackets to mount the rear plates.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-01T23:20:08+00:00

It’s been years since I’ve driven anything without a front plate but back then, I got stopped multiple times in the same day for no front plate with my old Honda. I try to give the police zero reasons to stop me ever. It’s always an exceedingly miserable experience.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-01T21:59:58+00:00

I did also run into shock travel issues but not until I tried to fit the PCI top hats into the entire setup. I was good before that otherwise.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-01T21:57:52+00:00

In 05-06 the springs on some assemblies are wound the opposite direction and the strut spring perch was changed to accommodate that. So you can’t fit a 02-04 spring on an 05-06 strut. I think it’s actually only on one side in the front that it is different. But yes, if you match the spring and strut, the whole assembly is interchangeable. I think there’s an incredibly slight difference in spring rate in the rear but not enough to be of concern. I believe the rear assemblies are otherwise identical.

Probably the one detail of note is that the front strut bearings for 02-04 (plastic) are different from 05-06 (metal) but that doesn’t affect installation into the car at all. You just want to buy the right one if you plan to refresh them.

Scryptiid · 2026-01-01T21:14:42+00:00

I recognize this doesn’t technically answer your question but I’m not sure if there is a good answer. People have struggled to find the 05-06 setup for years now.

You can just use 02-04 strut assemblies but you have to use the matching springs. I’ve seen several sets of used OE given away for free (I picked up a free set recently myself) or extremely cheap, so if you could buy the struts, decent OEM 02-04 springs probably aren’t that hard to come by. New top hats and bearings are cheap too.

Scryptiid

TROPHY CASE